XV1100SE

Glad you survived the ordeal. You are right, the injuries could have been far more severe. Take care of yourself and get healed up for the start of next riding seasin !

You'll see a white box to the left of the magnifying glass on the menu bar. Type in key words for what you are looking for and search. Also...you may have noticed, after putting in a thread title if you scroll to the bottom of the window there are suggested threads to look at regarding your subject title.

Lets throw in a couple more calculators... Piston speed - http://www.csgnetwork.com/pistonspeedcalc.html Multiple - http://www.bgsoflex.com/auto.html Every calculation you could ever want in one place - http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm Crank up the volume for this one - 21,000 rpm Honda F1 engine - - Ferrari motors - 12/10/8/6 cylinders (over 2 decades) - Car and Driver - Physics of Redline - https://www.caranddriver.com/features/the-physics-of-redline-feature Hmmmm.....forget the calculations .... just keep replaying the F1 engine at 21,000rpm and crank up the volume even more !!

Glad you like the calculator and video in the link. Here are more videos by the same guy (Engineering Explained) - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClqhvGmHcvWL9w3R48t9QXQ F1...amazing that they got the RPM up over 21,000 and considering the distance per race, the power demands.... the auto companies that thought they could just jump in and have an engine that could compete out of the box (Honda, Toyota)...they both threw a lot of money into F1 and didn't get anywhere (Honda in their current form). Still, would be nice if the engines were closer in performance (and more teams had the "magic mode"/"button"). You two still haven't convinced me who should get my vote....

Maybe settle the debate without having to take sides..... http://thefirstgensite.com/code/maxrpm.htm => max rpm calculator https://www.carthrottle.com/post/engineering-explained-why-some-engines-rev-high-and-their-benefits/ From https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rev_limiter "Physical Limiters The maximum RPM of an engine is limited to the airflow through the engine, the displacement of the engine, the mass and balance of the rotating parts, along with the bore and stroke of the pistons.[3] Formula One engines can rev up to 15,000 rpm as per Formula One rules[4] because of their smaller displacement, low mass, and short stroke. Engines with hydraulic tappets (such as the Buick/Rover V8) often have in effect a rev limiter by virtue of their design. The tappet clearances are maintained by the flow of the engine's lubricating oil. At high engine speeds, the oil pressure rises to such an extent that the tappets 'pump up', causing valve float. This sharply reduces engine power, causing speed to drop Racing Uses The RPM level that results with the spark timing being arrested can be a constant level, or, with the proper ignition control modules, variable. Variable rate ignition modules can be adjusted quickly and easily to achieve the appropriate RPM limit for different situations, such as street racing, drag racing, road course racing and highway driving. Multiple stage ignition modules offer greater RPM limit control. The first stage can be used to limit RPM levels when launching a vehicle from a stationary position, providing maximum power and traction. The second stage is activated after launch to set a higher RPM limit for wide-open-throttle acceleration." Discussion on Corvette forum : https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-tech-performance/753988-anyone-know-how-to-calculate-max-rpm.html

Looks great !

Happy birthday and best wishes from Nancy and I !

There are 52 members listed as being in Michigan. Check this list and see who is close to you. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/memberlist.php?s=&securitytoken=1508344068-a3212ea1c19f886dda20107a489c7b38f3750129&do=getall&ausername=&homepage=&field8=&field2=&field19=22&field19_opt=&field5=0&field5_opt=&field4=&field7=&field13=&field11=&field23=&field21=0&field15=&icq=&aim=&msn=&yahoo=&skype=&postslower=&postsupper=&joindateafter=&joindatebefore=&lastpostafter=&lastpostbefore=&sort=username&order=&perpage=

$2,700 "into it" I take includes the cost to buy the bike... There comes a point where you put more money and time into something just "because"....no reason other than you want to finish what you started, that it is worth more than money.... whatever that reason. So you have an '83 with low mileage that still needs work. If you try to sell a 34 year old motorcycle....are you likely to get $2700 for it? Tear it down and part it out and what you have done makes absolutely no difference in what you can get out of it. You have two choices : cut your losses and sell it for parts and get as much as you can out of it; or, finish the repairs that are required and enjoy the pleasure and satisfaction of riding what you rebuilt next summer. Second option you might have more into it than it is currently worth, but for the next few years you'll be able to ride it, and sell it for more than a non-running bike. My vote is to finish the rebuild.

Nice post on the Wing site !

Glad you survived and the insurance is settling without argument.

Simple reason for the dings on top of the fender. Unless there is an extender on the passing lights to push it forward in the mounted position, when you take the fairing apart you have to remove the passing lights. One oops moment and the passing lights drop and hit the top of the fender. For the previous owner(s) to hit something that would push the fender up into the passing light bar it must have been one heck of a bump/speed ! No way it was from this. Take the simple answer....someone had butter fingers. On the steering head, lift the bike (use a CarbonOne lift adapter and get one if you don't already have it - check classifieds).... turn the front wheel to the LEFT at a 45 degree angle and let go. The wheel should not move. If it does, follow the instructions on tightening the steering head - loosen the top nut on the steering head, and underneath use a flat bladed screw driver and a hammer to tighten (clockwise direction) the interlocked rings until the steering holds at 45 degrees. 30,000 miles....forks should still have fluid in them, shouldn't be an issue. Probably second or third set of tires - what is on the bike and how much tread left, what does the wear look like like - even wear?. I'm betting the steering head is not tight enough. I check/tighten mine every 10,000 km.

It's scary when you listen to the disclaimers on the commercials...."taking 'X' may cause....suicidal tendencies....death.... kidney/heart failure...." Sometimes the "cure" is not worth the "pain".

Congratulations !

Lets see....a carb sync takes 5 minutes. 60/5 is 12. $80 x 12 is....$960/hr Most members here with the carb sync will meet you and sync your carbs for free. Might cost you a coffee and having to talk with a member but $80 to sync carbs? That person has no idea what they are doing or they are ripping you off. Absolute maximum time to sync the carbs is 10 minutes but only if they are way out of whack. Hope you don't let that local bike guy touch your bike for anything ! I've met a number of members at coffee shops and shown them how to sync their carbs and done it for them. I usually check the carbs when I do an oil change. Takes 5 minutes and when you have the sync tool you can do it whenever and where ever you want....and help out others as well. While we are on the subject of maintenance....do you check your steering head? I check mine every 10,000km (6,000 miles) and usually have to tighten it just a bit. If the bike feels like it is drifting in curves or starts to wobble at around 25 mph with hands off the handle bars....you need to tighten the steering head. Easy task to do. 27mm wrench, hammer, flat blade screw driver, and lift the bike off the ground (lift adapter is great !)

With the production delay that mentioned before....I wouldn't expect them until Spring. The dealer I asked said they wouldn't bring any in until the Spring but that was before the production delay. They probably didn't want that much money tied up over the Winter sitting on the showroom floor.

From the parts diagram (confirm the '98 is an XVZ13AK - 1998 the drive shaft is part number 4NK-46172-00-00 https://www.shopyamaha.com/parts-catalog/parts/street-mcy?ls=Tour&dealernumber=#/Yamaha/XVZ13AK_-_1998/DRIVE_SHAFT 2001 Venture - https://www.shopyamaha.com/parts-catalog/parts/street-mcy?ls=Tour&dealernumber=#/Yamaha/VENTURE_-_XVZ1300TFN_-_2001/DRIVE_SHAFT drive shaft 4XY-46172-00-00 From boats.net they are not the same (see list of compatible bikes) http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-4NK-46172-00-00.html The drive shaft for the 2001 from boats.net is $138

I couldn't give you an absolute answer to your question but have you looked at the parts diagrams and compare part numbers?

I was initially thinking beam angle. On my passing lights it is an 8 degree (narrow) beam and I was thinking "dispersal" was beam angle. Switching from low to high you can see the difference. Still...from my experience with LED bulbs (first one was from AliExpress but caused radio interference) the light thrown from the bulb/bucket is very wide. I am glad I have the GE H7616 bulbs in my passing light to focus a narrower beam. As for cut-off, I aimed my headlight and there is a "top" to the low beam to aim but it isn't as defined as with say a normal bulb. Very bright bulb (2500 lumens as opposed to most of the other ones at 2000 lumens). As with most LED bulbs I had to remove the rubber boot on the back of the headlight bucket but no other alterations.

BongoBob put me onto this one - now discontinued but have been using it for over a year now. https://chromeglow.com/products/headlights-and-passing-lamps/bulbs/led/h4-led-motorcycle-headlight-bulb/ This one is very bright white but has a light dispersal.

BUMP !

pinwall cycles - https://pinwallcycle.com/advanced_search_result.php?osCsid=054b5ef4d7a7ef69ab27f8839136ce3e&keywords=royal+star+venture+control - $370

CarbonOne used to make arm rests. The rests tilt up. Not sure if he makes them anymore but you can check. Diamond-R had armrests too (I think it was them) but they swung out. Any bike I've seen with rests that swing out they always have a bungee cord on them to keep them swinging out on their own. On the controller....check bike recyclers. Ebay... For recyclers....there will be recommendations here on which ones to try.

Note that the OP is in Canada.... per local dealer (to me) there is a limited number of '18 Ventures for Canada and expected deliveries is the Spring. Yamaha knows this year's riding season is almost at an end so deliveries will be in the Spring.

Good to hear you are recovering to the point where you can get out on the bike, even if it is just around the block !