XV1100SE

For those that have looked on the cassette.... is it a c-bus connector? If it is... then connecting the iSimple adapter inside the fairing might work. You could then turn the cassette spot into a storage compartment and put the iPod there. If it is the same cable and the iSimple interface doesn't work when plugged into the cassette input on the radio you should be able to plug it into the cd connector instead. I haven't looked at the back of the cassette but doubt it is a c-bus connector.

Major thunderstorm last night and didn't want to use the computer. Pictures attached now.

I don't know what type of cable connects the cassette. If it is c-bus I don't see why it wouldn't work and if the c-bus cable for the cd originates in the fairing you could just use that connection.

My guess is that no it won't work. The type of interface is different (CCA and connector is square, not round for the c-bus).

Call Pioneer and ask for Chad Tell him you are a Venture Rider member to get the discount

At the WNY rally I picked up my iPod adapter from Pioneer and temporarily connected it for the trip back. Last night I went thru the permanent install. Installation : My '09 has the cd-changer cable already (but the PO didn't give me the cd-changer - which didn't really want anyway) and this is required to connect the iSimple adapter. The cable for the iSimple plugs into the c-bus connector, and comes with a cable to connect the iPod to the iSimple adapter. Documentation for fastening to the left saddlebag is easy to follow (used it for reference for positioning cable fasteners). Enough fasteners are provided, more would be unnecessary. Two sided tape is provided to fasten the iSimple adapter to the rear inside wall of the saddlebag. The c-bus to iSimple cable is a good length to route the cable along the side wall of the saddlebag. The iSimple to iPod cable is very long but when wound up fits nicely in the recess in the bottom of the saddlebag. All this is well documented. Once the iSimple is connected to the c-bus cable, turn the key to "Accessory" with radio on and it finds the interface. Instead of the "CD" you see a "1 - 1" on the radio display to confirm that it has found it and is ready to go. There are two ports on the iSimple adapter but only port 1 is used to connect to the iPod. The completed installation is nice and clean. The c-bus to interface cable fits against the side of the saddlebag and under the pocket between the latches. The iSimple interface is fairly shallow and doesn't protrude very much. The cable from the interface to iPod runs under the foam liner of the saddlebag across the back of the saddlebag to the recess in the bottom of the saddlebag and then over to the mesh pocket. Don't think any of this will interfere with the saddlebag liner/bag. Usage : With the iPod (instructions includes a list of models but it also works with iPhone) disconnected, choose the playlist you want to play. Once connected the interface on the iPod is disabled and you can't change playlists unless you disconnect the iPod. Connect the iPod to the iSimple cable and then you control it from the radio controls. From the radio controls you can adjust volume level and go up/down tracks within the playlist you selected. No fast forward or ability to change playlists. The display will always read "1 - 1". If you change tracks it will count up/down (down from "1 - 1" shows "1 - 99", up shows "1 - 2") but after a second or so it will go back to displaying "1 - 1". Sound quality is crisp and clear. Very simple to go up/down tracks, adjust volume since you use the radio control... which for legal reasons they provide a sticker to go inside the lid of the saddlebag warning not to use while riding. For some reason I didn't afix this label ! With the iPod connected it will be continually charged. The instructions warn to disconnect the iPod if the bike will sit unused for any length of time as the iSimple will charge the iPod even with the bike turned off. If you turn off the bike and back on (Accessory or Ignition) it will be in the same song so from initial testing it looks like shutting off the bike also stops playback but it picks up when you turn the key back on. I WILL include some pictures tonight ! Price : I will confirm from my receipt but I think the interface with c-bus to interface cable and interface to iPod cable, two sided tape, and clips was around $170 with the 15% discount Pioneer offers us. If you don't have the cable for the c-bus/CD-changer you'll need this as well. Any other questions... let me know.

Second this. I bought a textile jacket last summer thinking it would be cooler but what I found was that the material was so tightly woven that there was no airflow. Even with the vents open on the jacket it was still too hot. Picked up the Tourmaster a couple weeks ago and find it very comfortable and well made. Rode thru a downpour on the way back from the WNY rally and with the mesh outer and rain inner I stayed dry. Nice thing is one jacket with two liners means you don't have to carry multiple jackets while touring. The liners don't take much space and even on hot days with the mesh outer I found that there was enough air flow to stay cool. One comment though.... how the liners zip in and fasten with loops and snaps makes sense and is easy to do... but make sure you put them in/out before having to do it in a hurry. First time can be a bit confusing.

The label on the boots says "waterproof" and on the way back from the WNY rally I confirmed that they ARE waterproof and NOT "water resistent". Very comfortable boots as I often ride to work in them and leave them on all day at my office job. Light weight, good soles, side zipper and laces in front. Even when it has been really hot out I've worn them and haven't felt hot in them.

Supposed to rain heavily this evening anyway - 70% chance of getting 35 to 45mm of rain in Cambridge this evening.

Sorry... already have plans for the weekend. Enjoy the ride !

Can you get us better than a 5% discount?

Probably a good idea if someone organizing this puts it in the calendar. :-)

Contact info for Custom Dynamics and the person I've been emailing : Custom Dynamics® 12335-203 Wake Union Church Rd Wake Forest, NC 27587 http://www.customdynamics.com Email: dennis@customdynamics.com Phone: 800-382-1388 Phone: 919-554-0949 Fax: 919-882-9611 I'm going to be placing an order for the items above for myself and also a brake light for "The Count" (Steve). If anyone else in S/W Ontario wants something maybe we can split shipping/broker fees by having one larger order.

Response to a couple questions to Custom Dynamics (and they have been very responsive!) "If you use the load equalizer there will be no interferance. If you were to use our Signal Stabilizer I would get the RF coating. That will do away with any chances of getting any RF noise. As far as adding a code to your forum, You would have to take that up with our office manager. About the shipping, we just have had to many lost packages thru USPS. Also we have had some order that take over a month to be delivered. Its not that we will not ship USPS, we will. It will just be on you if something happens. We can't guarantee the shipment. There is no insurance or tracking. Dennis"

Hoping for a speedy recovery !

I'm looking at getting the 100 LED brake light and the integrated LED run/brake/turn signals from Custom Dynamics. Rear Signal lights - Dynamic Cluster - "The Dynamic Clusters will fit into your turn signal housings. You will need to find out if you have 1156 or 7507 bulbs in the rear. Now for the running and brake of the cluster you will have to hard wire that in. The signal light just plugs in. You will also need a load equalizer or a metric signal stabilizer. The Metric Signal Stabilizer will not produce any heat. That will allow you to run your 4 ways flashers and not do any damage. If you leave the front turn signals stock. It will NOT cause any issue. If you just do the rear LEDs you will only need one load equalizer. If you decide to do the front turn signals at a latter date you will need a load equalizer for the front." http://www.customdynamics.com/motorcycle_dynamic_clusters.htm GEN200-AR-7507-T $81/pair *** confirm signal lighbulb type - other option is GEN200-AR-1156-T See the following link to identify bulb type - http://www.customdynamics.com/bulb_identification_help.htm http://www.customdynamics.com/loadequalizer.htm#Universal Turn Signal GEN-7.5-30 $15.25 100 LED Brake light - "The GEN-100-1157 YAM tail light is a direct replacement for your tail light and will not require any modules" http://www.customdynamics.com/Yamaha_tail_retro.htm GEN-100-1157YAM - $89.95 There are discount codes available on the Internet that give a 5% discount on orders over $150. I've asked them if it is possible to set one up for VentureRiders.org but since there is no "payback" to the site it probably doesn't matter. The code I found that works is "rswarrior". I'll update this if they provide a special one for us. I am not associated with Custom Dynamics and am providing this information for members so they have the details in one thread should they want to upgrade to LED. Free shipping to the U.S.. To Canada only option is UPS Expedited at $32.95 (site says no brokerage fee). I've asked if they will ship USPS to Canada. Another member also mentioned to tell them that the bike has a radio on it so they will apply an RF coating to the wiring. Response from Custom Dynamics (and they have been very responsive!) "If you use the load equalizer there will be no interferance. If you were to use our Signal Stabilizer I would get the RF coating. That will do away with any chances of getting any RF noise" Received the Dynamic Cluster and 100 LED brake light Monday and worked on the install Monday and Tuesday evening. For the installation... Turn signals : I started with the signal lights first. The Dynamic Cluster has a plug in for where the old bulb used to be but has two wires (running and brake light) that need to be connected. I ran them to the brake light figuring that would be the easiest and closest location. The instructions mention drilling a hole thru the back of the signal housing but I choose to keep it clean and run the wires thru the bracket that attaches the signal housing to the fender... figured I'd follow the same path that the existing signal lights follow. Lets say the second signal light went smoother than the first. There is very little slack in the wires so I removed my trailer receiver and bent the clips back inside the fender to loosen the wire. Unbolted the signal assembly from the fender (bolts are inside the fender) and pulled the bulb socket and rubber boot out... and with moving it around trying to get the cluster wires thru.... the ground wire came off the bottom of the socket. Patched in a little extra wire for slack and soldered it back onto the base. Used a wire hangar to fish the wires thru the bracket and then thru the grommet on the fender. Bolted the bracket back onto the fender . For protection of the wires, I used heat shrink tubing to cover the wires inside the fender to run to the hole/grommet leading to the brake light. Cut a "V" in the tubing to cover the wires going into the signal bracket hole. Running the wires into the brake light was fun. There is a rubber boot inside the fender for the grommet leading to the brake light. Using my expensive tool (coat hangar) I pushed the hangar thru from the brake light housing thru the rubber boot and taped the wires to the hangar and pulled them thru. Connection to the run/brake wires was easy using the supplied connectors (posi-lock). Tested signals and brake/run lights several times thru the steps because of the wire I had to solder. Yellow wire - brake Blue wire - running light Used dish soap to coat the rubber boot around the old bulb connector and pushed it back into the signal bracket. Put the covers back onto the signal housing and that was done. 100 LED Brake Light The cluster is mounted on a board with three holes for the cover screws to go thru. Plug in the socket from the light board to the bulb socket, align the screws and put the cover back on. Done. Load Balancer Because the LED signal lights have lower resistance than incandescent bulbs you need a load balancer/equalizer or the bike thinks a bulb is burned out and they flash quick. I connected mine under the seat by using the supplied connectors (posi-lock) and spliced into the wires leading to the tail lights. The balancer has a connector on the end of the wires that needs to be cut off. Three wires - ground, and two wires that connect to the signal lights. I have an isolator for my trailer lights (also LED but the isolator doesn't make the lights flash fast). I didn't want to confuse things so I made sure I located the wire leading directly to the rear signal lights. Left wire - Brown Right wire - Green Ground wire - Black Test the lights... find room for the balancer under the seat... attach seat... test lights ... Done. Results I already had the trunk wing brake light but replacing the stock brake light and adding brakes/run lights to the signal housing definitely makes the rear of the bike more visble. A lot brighter and more coverage. A very positive upgrade ! Custom Dynamics was good to deal with and shipped the products the same day. On the Custom Dynamics site they show how to tell which bulb you have. Pull one from the signal light and compare it (my first post had the link - http://www.customdynamics.com/bulb_i...ation_help.htm) As for "not DOT approved".... I saw that but figure better to be safer with the brighter lights. As was mentioned, I don't think a cop would be able to say it wasn't DOT approved just by how bright the lights were or that it was a run/brake/turn light in one housing. Doubt they'd really care. Pictures Two pictures at night - running lights, then with brake on Daytime picture - brake lights

I'm looking at getting the 100 LED brake light and the integrated LED run/brake/turn signals from Custom Dynamics. Rear Signal lights - Dynamic Cluster - "The Dynamic Clusters will fit into your turn signal housings. You will need to find out if you have 1156 or 7507 bulbs in the rear. Now for the running and brake of the cluster you will have to hard wire that in. The signal light just plugs in. You will also need a load equalizer or a metric signal stabilizer. The Metric Signal Stabilizer will not produce any heat. That will allow you to run your 4 ways flashers and not do any damage. If you leave the front turn signals stock. It will NOT cause any issue. If you just do the rear LEDs you will only need one load equalizer. If you decide to do the front turn signals at a latter date you will need a load equalizer for the front." http://www.customdynamics.com/motorcycle_dynamic_clusters.htm GEN200-AR-7507-T $81/pair *** confirm signal lighbulb type - other option is GEN200-AR-1156-T See the following link to identify bulb type - http://www.customdynamics.com/bulb_identification_help.htm http://www.customdynamics.com/loadequalizer.htm#Universal Turn Signal GEN-7.5-30 $15.25 100 LED Brake light - "The GEN-100-1157 YAM tail light is a direct replacement for your tail light and will not require any modules" http://www.customdynamics.com/Yamaha_tail_retro.htm GEN-100-1157YAM - $89.95 There are discount codes available on the Internet that give a 5% discount on orders over $150. I've asked them if it is possible to set one up for VentureRiders.org but since there is no "payback" to the site it probably doesn't matter. The code I found that works is "rswarrior". I'll update this if they provide a special one for us. I am not associated with Custom Dynamics and am providing this information for members so they have the details in one thread should they want to upgrade to LED. Free shipping to the U.S.. To Canada only option is UPS Expedited at $32.95 (site says no brokerage fee). I've asked if they will ship USPS to Canada. Another member also mentioned to tell them that the bike has a radio on it so they will apply an RF coating to the wiring. Response from Custom Dynamics (and they have been very responsive!) "If you use the load equalizer there will be no interferance. If you were to use our Signal Stabilizer I would get the RF coating. That will do away with any chances of getting any RF noise"

My 09 RSV must be the same. I saw the pictures of the bulb types but haven't taken a bulb out yet. What load balancer did you get?

Word from Custom Dynamics was to keep the trailer circuit separate and wire the brake/run light to the tail light and tap in there. For the turn signals, replacing the rear lights would require one load balancer. Replacing the front turn signals would require another load balancer. Can anyone confirm whether the rear signal lights are an 1157 or 7507 base? Does VR.org have a discount code?

For those that have done it.... If I install the 100 LED tail light... does it require a load equalizer (or is that just for turn signals?) If I install the Dynamic Cluster LED turn signals .... - I have an isolator under the seat for my trailer lighting http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58204 which btw... the self cancelling still works on the bike)...should I : a) wire the signal lights back to the isolator or ; b) use existing signal wire with brake/run to the tail light and use an isolator (2?) for the turn signals

How to steal a house in the U.S. - http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2008/03/house_stealing.html Mortgage fraud in Canada - info and story : http://www.protectionpower.ca/beware-mortgage-fraud http://www.protectionpower.ca/news#massive-mortgage-fraud-2 http://www.cbc.ca/news/background/mortgage-fraud/ http://www.protectyourtitle.com/FraudFacts/PYT_FraudFacts.html

Not sure if it was the bank or my lawer that recommended "Title Insurance". They sell it as a safety item should someone try to steal your house. If it weren't possible... would they sell it? And we are talking lawyers and banks. I'm avoiding commenting on lawers and bankers after making that statement.

Well said ! So for those that pray.... it's a safe bet either way if there is a God or not and you pass away. For those of us that don't pray... we may be in trouble ! To each his own and as long as they "walk the talk" then good for them. No one should try to change anyone else but be accepting (or tolerant) of each other and their belief's. Interesting that this thread has focused on the Religious side of Freebird's thread and very little or nothing related to Politics.

Didn't think we had told you what time we would be crossing the border to come home ! We left Chaffey at 11am.

Our condolences on your loss. Don and Nancy