XV1100SE
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Everything posted by XV1100SE
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Wattage is a calculation of voltage and amperage...if I remember from high school electrical shop.
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Its the amperage you have to look at. USB is a standard but different usb chargers are rated at different amperage For example...I have an older Blackberry charger that has a usb connector on it and the OUTPUT amps is 700miliamps (.7 amps) and it wont charge my iPod but a newer 750miliamp charger will. The charger for a PlayBook is 1.8amps. Voltage is all the same but it is the amperage that is the key. Newer batterys require higher voltage. I can use the PlayBook charger on the Blackberry and it charges faster because of the amperage. I would not leave it on the charger for a long period of time. I think it will damage the battery over time. I cannot use the 750mamp charger to charge the PlayBook. Long story short...the salesperson was correct that you will need a new car charger.
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Yamaha has an iSimple adapter that plugs into the c-bus controller in the saddle bag. The iPod (or iPhone) connects to the iSimple adapter. You can move up/down songs using the radio control on the handle bar. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63049 (with pictures)
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Was a well written article but all I can see is rate increases. I can understand why bike insurance is high - one "fender bender" can mean the right-off of a bike. The way they have our insurance structured now with multiple options/choices just makes it more confusing.
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Didn't see this until this morning. Wayne (Wizard), Steve (The Count) and I rode from Paris to Campbellville last night. Would have been nice meeting for a coffee.
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If both the cd-player and iPod adapter aren't working then have to look at what is common in the both .... that would have to be the cable connection. Possible it is pinched somewhere or bad connection at the plug in the fairing? With a meter you could test the pins for continuity.
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Practice makes perfect?
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Received the Dynamic Cluster and 100 LED brake light Monday and worked on the install Monday and Tuesday evening. For the installation... Turn signals : I started with the signal lights first. The Dynamic Cluster has a plug in for where the old bulb used to be but has two wires (running and brake light) that need to be connected. I ran them to the brake light figuring that would be the easiest and closest location. The instructions mention drilling a hole thru the back of the signal housing but I choose to keep it clean and run the wires thru the bracket that attaches the signal housing to the fender... figured I'd follow the same path that the existing signal lights follow. Lets say the second signal light went smoother than the first. There is very little slack in the wires so I removed my trailer receiver and bent the clips back inside the fender to loosen the wire. Unbolted the signal assembly from the fender (bolts are inside the fender) and pulled the bulb socket and rubber boot out... and with moving it around trying to get the cluster wires thru.... the ground wire came off the bottom of the socket. Patched in a little extra wire for slack and soldered it back onto the base. Used a wire hangar to fish the wires thru the bracket and then thru the grommet on the fender. Bolted the bracket back onto the fender . For protection of the wires, I used heat shrink tubing to cover the wires inside the fender to run to the hole/grommet leading to the brake light. Cut a "V" in the tubing to cover the wires going into the signal bracket hole. Running the wires into the brake light was fun. There is a rubber boot inside the fender for the grommet leading to the brake light. Using my expensive tool (coat hangar) I pushed the hangar thru from the brake light housing thru the rubber boot and taped the wires to the hangar and pulled them thru. Connection to the run/brake wires was easy using the supplied connectors (posi-lock). Tested signals and brake/run lights several times thru the steps because of the wire I had to solder. Yellow wire - brake Blue wire - running light Used dish soap to coat the rubber boot around the old bulb connector and pushed it back into the signal bracket. Put the covers back onto the signal housing and that was done. 100 LED Brake Light The cluster is mounted on a board with three holes for the cover screws to go thru. Plug in the socket from the light board to the bulb socket, align the screws and put the cover back on. Done. Load Balancer Because the LED signal lights have lower resistance than incandescent bulbs you need a load balancer/equalizer or the bike thinks a bulb is burned out and they flash quick. I connected mine under the seat by using the supplied connectors (posi-lock) and spliced into the wires leading to the tail lights. The balancer has a connector on the end of the wires that needs to be cut off. Three wires - ground, and two wires that connect to the signal lights. I have an isolator for my trailer lights (also LED but the isolator doesn't make the lights flash fast). I didn't want to confuse things so I made sure I located the wire leading directly to the rear signal lights. Left wire - Brown Right wire - Green Ground wire - Black Test the lights... find room for the balancer under the seat... attach seat... test lights ... Done. Results I already had the trunk wing brake light but replacing the stock brake light and adding brakes/run lights to the signal housing definitely makes the rear of the bike more visble. A lot brighter and more coverage. A very positive upgrade ! Custom Dynamics was good to deal with and shipped the products the same day. Pictures Two pictures at night - running lights, then with brake on Daytime picture - brake lights
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Yes.... did you buy it? Probably putting off the Wednesday night rides just so he can finish washing/waxing and adding safety chrome !
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When were you thinking of going - date?
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Taillight Wire - Spot Lights
XV1100SE replied to farm1810's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Basically what you are hooking up is identical to the passing light install. There is a tech article you should read. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43898 Best to use a relay (like you mentioned). http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58432&highlight=passing+light+relay Also... do a search for "passing lights" and read some of the threads. For the relay you have a fused power connection from the battery directly to the relay. The connection to the running lights just signals the relay to close and pass the power to your lights. Hope this helps and welcome to the site ! -
Wish you luck with your health issues. Sorry to hear you won't be riding anymore but as has been said... that time comes for us all. Hope to hear/see you again in the future. Don
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Glad you and your son are okay.
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Is that because the 1st gen is so fast....or an age thing? Maybe you should get the 2nd gen you posted about!
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Nice colours! Is it missing the fork wind deflectors? As for antenna... the straight antenna goes on the right side. The one with the barrel thing goes on the left. A lot of dealers put them the wrong way. Even the Yamaha site had them pictured the wrong way.
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09 RSV thru Echelon...$1000.
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My first ride was a Kawasaki 305 LTD for about 4 years, then a Virago 1100 for 12 years. I'd have to say a 650cc until you are comfortable, then test ride a Venture after a couple years of experience. I'll admit even with my years of riding there are moments on the Venture. Don't rush!
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nope
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No longer listed on the Harbor Frieght site.
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Looks like the Harbor Frieght Tag Along. No longer listed on the site though. There were customer reviews/recommendations... - repack bearings - rubber tubing on the shackle bolt (rear capture bolt) - replaced lights with LED's - put rubber thru the holes where the wiring went thru the frame - replaced the zerk fittings - one was broken out of the box - replaced bolts holding the "car carrier" box to the frame with eye bolts. Will replace these with ones I saw at a trailer store that fold flat. This way I can use helmet nets to secure any load down while trailering - shimmed coupler bolts with a couple washers - DON'T over tighten or it squezes the coupler in and the ball release won't work properly I didn't see how to remove the overload spring so I left it in. Didn't flip the axle either. For wiring on my '09... I'm using a Reese converter.... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ighlight=reese - http://reese.cequent-cpi.com/product...l.asp?ID=78014 . My turn signal self cancel still works with the trailer hooked up. For discussion on whether to swivel or not... check out http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14650&highlight=swivel+hitch If it is the HF Tag Along... the specs are : The tag-along trailer adds 16.6 cubic feet of storage space to your car, truck or motorcycle, and it's protected from the elements inside the lockable shell. Self-assisted hydraulic struts allow easy lid opening; when it’s closed, this trailer is streamlined for maximum fuel efficiency and savings. The tag-along trailer includes coupler, safety chain, wiring harness, trailer light kit, license plate holder, two keys and two additional side latches. * Automotive load capacity: 600 lbs. * Motorcycle load capacity: 200 lbs. * Heavy-duty 4.80 x 8" tires * 55-MPH maximum towing speed * Extends 78” behind vehicle * Leaf spring suspension system * DOT certified
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Would the "it followed you home" work?
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When I first heard about the interface coming I contacted iSimple and they said it would only be available from Yamaha. I can provide better pictures if necessary. The cable from the interface to c-bus is about 10" long. The interface has two "ports" on it but only one is used to connect the iPod. Instructions say not to use port 2. The interface is attached to the saddlebag using two sided tape (provided in package) so it won't be possible to remove it. I'll take more pics tonight and post.
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Better to ask forgiveness than permission. :-) Also... with the number of bikes you already have.... would she even notice one more among the many?
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Price - Audio set P/N 1BM-H81C0-T0-00 - reg price $224.95 - w/discount $191.21 Quoted was the interface cable P/N STR-CDCHG-11-00 - reg $88.69 - w/discount $75.39 I didn't need the interface cable since my '09 was already wired for the cd-changer. The above was from Pioneer Motorsport. Does anyone know what the connector for the cassette deck is? Is it c-bus?
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I've ordered the brake and turn signal lights. According to the email I received about 2hrs after ordering.... my order is ready to be picked up by UPS.