XV1100SE

I don't have a 3rd gen Venture....but if you disconnect the alarm siren it may silence it but the alarm functions will still enable/operate. Does this imobilize the bike? For maintenance on the bike there is a way to turn off the alarm. Might be better to use the system as designed.

I have the Diamond R passenger highway pegs. Couldn't offer any other suggestions but if RDawson is making them he'd be your "go-to" guy.

Have you ever replaced your clutch plates? If not, it is probably time. My clutch started slipping...in 4th and 5th gears and I went with Skydoc's clutch kit. As Carl mentioned it is something you can do yourself with minimal tools. There might be someone in your area that can assist you if necessary, and of course lots of support online and Earl is good about replying to questions as well. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?139137-Second-Gen-Heavy-Duty-Clutch-Spring-amp-Full-Disc-Upgrade-Kit!

I've never heard of Windows suggesting three manual shutdowns to "fix" itself. I've run into situations where it was recommended to run "chkdsk" three times from a command line. Sounds like you caught a "bug" from somewhere. As Cowpuc suggested, you can try to recover a restore point (also called a "restore point") but you'd want to go back a few weeks before the issue started. Right click on the bar at the bottom of Windows and run Task Manager. Depending on what your knowledge level is you can "end task" on suspicious applications or processes that are running. Beside the Windows icon on the bottom left click on the magnifying glass and type : add remove Click on "Add or remove programs". On the right side of the window that opens click on "Programs and Features". Another window will open. Click on the column title that says "Installed On" to sort. One click should do it but you might have to click a second time to sort from newest to oldest. Look at the first column to see what has been installed by name or by publisher. If there is anything that you don't recognize or looks suspicious, click once on the line and then above the list click on "Uninstall". CCCleaner is an option as well. Microsoft has a "safety scanner" you can run - https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/security/threat-protection/intelligence/safety-scanner-download Start with these steps.

Sorry to hear about your grandson's accident. Hopes for a speedy healing !

Since we are talking about bolts.... When I replaced my OEM windshield with a Clearview I was finding that the bolts holding the windscreen would loosen over time. What I did was replaced them with 2mm longer bolts and now they stay tight. The Clearview is slightly thicker than the OEM screen and the shorter thread depth let them loosen out.

There is a write-up in the read only tech section on checking the steering head tightness. Lift the bike and turn the steering head 45 degrees to one side and let go. If it moves, the steering head needs to tightened. The write up describes this method and how to tighten. This is a simple test and a good way to rule it out...or in. Have you ever replaced the bearings in the steering head? Possible damage with the strapping down? Or it pulled enough to put the head into a "loose" condition?

As a group of one you won't have anyone interupting you talking or giving a speech. Sorry I can't make it this year. My sister is retiring from teaching and the party/celebration is on June 15th.

Stop in once in a while as suggested to keep in touch with the group. There are several members that went the Spyder route and are still here.

Congratulations !

You guys need to start your own thread ! Almost 1/3rd of the posts in this thread are not about the rally but are about secrets, secret meetings, secret plans, cats (think the cat is out of the bag anyway). Punishment....flogging? How about a shrubbery? (Monty Python)

Or window.

For those that haven't cancelled their reservations at the motel in Minden, please call Ray at the motel to cancel. Late or non-cancellations can be charged a fee.

I know sometimes it might sound like a dumb question but I work in computer support and the number of times you ask the user if it has power...and find out the power bar is turned off or the monitor isn't turned on. Can't make assumptions !

I broke off one of the seat studs before but there is a fix for it which has held up nicely and is probably stronger than the original one. I think I got the info from Rick Butler but...from memory.... 1) Take out some of the staples from under the front of the seat so you can peel back the cover to expose the top of the bolt. Move foam padding out of the way 2) Drill out the top of the old stud with a bit that will cut the head off but not make the seat hole any larger. Take your time and every once in a while let the bolt cool down before continuing. Too much heat will melt the seat pan around the stud. You can start with small drill bits and work up to the right size until the stud comes out. The hole in the seat pan is threaded so try not to damage the threads. Use a tap if you have to repair the threads 3) Get a stainless metric bolt that matches the nut threads. You can measure the length of the bolt that isn't broken and add a couple mm for the proper length. You can dry fit the seat in place to make sure the length of the new bolt is correct 4) Put the new bolt thru the hole from the inside of the seat and JB weld or epoxy the head of the bolt to the inside of the seat pan. Wait until it sets 5) Put foam back in place and pull the seat cover back in place. Staple the seat cover back in place (remember that you only want the staple to go into the seat pan, not thru it so keep them short. I took my seat to an upholstery shop and they stapled it for me (was only a few staples so no charge) I had gotten this info from Rick Butler before on how he repairs studs when he rebuilds seats : "the broken bolt is not a bolt but a threaded stud that is part of a larger base that is molded into the seat pan. My solution when I have the seat pan off is to drill it carefully and tread it for 6mm X 1.0 pitch bolt that I screw in from the back side. But drilling it, you have to go slow as to not build up too much heat as it will heat up the plastic seat pan and the stud will break loose from the molding. Going from smaller to larger drill bits always works out well. Use a metric taps to "thread" the hole for the bolt" Good as new !

I broke off one of the seat studs before but there is a fix for it which has held up nicely and is probably stronger than the original one. I think I got the info from Rick Butler but...from memory.... 1) Take out some of the staples from under the front of the seat so you can peel back the cover to expose the top of the bolt. Move foam padding out of the way 2) Drill out the top of the old stud with a bit that will cut the head off but not make the seat hole any larger. Take your time and every once in a while let the bolt cool down before continuing. Too much heat will melt the seat pan around the stud. You can start with small drill bits and work up to the right size until the stud comes out. The hole in the seat pan is threaded so try not to damage the threads. Use a tap if you have to repair the threads 3) Get a stainless metric bolt that matches the nut threads. You can measure the length of the bolt that isn't broken and add a couple mm for the proper length. You can dry fit the seat in place to make sure the length of the new bolt is correct 4) Put the new bolt thru the hole from the inside of the seat and JB weld or epoxy the head of the bolt to the inside of the seat pan. Wait until it sets 5) Put foam back in place and pull the seat cover back in place. Staple the seat cover back in place (remember that you only want the staple to go into the seat pan, not thru it so keep them short. I took my seat to an upholstery shop and they stapled it for me (was only a few staples so no charge) I had gotten this info from Rick Butler before on how he repairs studs when he rebuilds seats : "the broken bolt is not a bolt but a threaded stud that is part of a larger base that is molded into the seat pan. My solution when I have the seat pan off is to drill it carefully and tread it for 6mm X 1.0 pitch bolt that I screw in from the back side. But drilling it, you have to go slow as to not build up too much heat as it will heat up the plastic seat pan and the stud will break loose from the molding. Going from smaller to larger drill bits always works out well. Use a metric taps to "thread" the hole for the bolt" Good as new !

When you turn on the CB does the light come on or the display show the channel? If you aren't getting any sound thru it....do you have your squelch turned all the way up (which would pretty much eliminate everything coming thru for sound) Other thing to check....are your antennas on the right way? A lot of dealers put the cb antenna on the wrong side. CB antenna (the one with the coil in the middle) should be on the left side. Has the CB worked before?

We had a total of 10 people signed up for it (with Carl and I accounting for 4 of those 10). With multiple "bumps", there hasn't been enough interest/sign-ups for it this year. I expressed my concerns to Carl and agreed to cancel it.

Please note that the Ontario rally will be cancelled for this year.

Sorry to hear of your fall. I did something similar but it had to do with going down the stairs in the dark with a cat sleeping on one of the steps. Hope you recover to normal soon !

Happy birthday and to many more !

My second bike was a '99 Virago 1100 SE (hence my handle of XV1100SE on here). First was a Kawasaki KZ305. If my daughter was leaning towards a cruiser I would definitely recommend the VStar 650 or similar. I was more concerned about power to weight ratio on a sport bike and was thinking that because sports bikes are usually lighter she could go with lower cc's (sport bike around 500cc ?) I agree with first bike being a used one. First bike is just that ....a first bike. She has lots of experience riding pillion and will be taking the motorcycle training course. My criteria for her first bike would be : - not too big/heavy/powerful for a first time rider - feels comfortable for handling, seating position, flat footed - recommendations/reviews comparing same style/size for handling, stopping, etc Thoughts on whether a first bike should be a sports or cruiser style? I'm sure there are pros and cons to both ways. In my view, a cruiser would be a better starter bike.

If she was looking at a cruiser I would have suggested a VStar 650. I agree with your thinking that a small bike wouldn't be good on a highway and that is the same reason I would have suggested a VStar 650. I'm not familiar with riding a sport bike so I can't offer her a lot in the way of experience there. A 400 or 500 would be good I would think in a sport bike. I don't want her to get something so small that she wants to upgrade in a year when she could handle a slightly bigger bike that would last her for years.

My daughter (30 years old, 5'5") got her M1 license yesterday (graduated licensing - M1 is first level) and will be taking the training class in May (pass training and gets M2). She asked me about a 2018 Suzuki GSX250R and thought I'd get feedback from members on this bike. She has ridden with me (on Virago and Venture) and has been passenger on a Ducati. She won't get a bike until after the training. So....thoughts on : - GSX250R - good bike? Other options like the Honda CBR300 ? Comparison? - is a 250cc twin a good option or would she be needing something bigger as she gains experience? Found this : https://www.cycleworld.com/which-small-sportbike-should-you-buy-in-2018

Since it is an HD....think someone mentioned previously that HD will ship bikes for you as well.