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XV1100SE

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Everything posted by XV1100SE

  1. You don't remove the lock washer/tab. In simple steps...with the bike on the lift and the front wheel clear of the ground : 1) Loosen the nut on top of the steering head (27mm wrench) (lefty loosey - counter clockwise) 2) Turn the handle bars to the left (as in front wheel pointing to the left) 3) Test front wheel by holding it halfway between straight ahead and full left turn and let go. If it moves, it needs to be tighted. If it holds on its own it is probably tight enough. 4) If the steering wheel test shows it is too loose, with a flat blade screw driver and mallet, line up the notch in the lock nut and hit it in a clockwise direction 5) Test front wheel by holding it halfway between straight ahead and full left turn and let go. If it moves, tighten some more. If it holds on its own it is probably tight enough. 6) Tighten the nut on top of the steering head (27mm wrench). I take turns tightening from the left side of the bike, then the right (righty tighty - clockwise) If this doesn't cure the problem... something else is wrong.
  2. Here is the link to the short cut - http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=511 Service manual - http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20228 Owners and Service manuals - http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1828 Parts diagram - http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2477
  3. My condolences. I had 3 weeks off in a row during the summer and was really starting to enjoy the time off.
  4. Where did you see that?
  5. The nut on the top of the steering head (27mm) has to be loosened before the adjustment and then tightened afterwards. When you tighten the steeering head the two pieces move together and there is a "locking tab" holding them together. I find moving the steering head to the left has the free-est movement. Turning to the right (for lack of a better word) binds. What I do is turn the front wheel half way to the left and let go. If it falls further on its own it needs to be tightened. If it holds then it is okay. The last couple times I had to adjust mine there was 10,000km between times.
  6. Congratulations to you, your wife, and daughter ! Sounds like things have turned around !
  7. Similar idea... $119 - http://www.aerostich.com/tools/maintenance-repairs/carburetor/twinmax-synchronizer.html http://www.ibmwr.org/prodreview/twinmax.html $255 - http://www.mactools.com/product/tabid/120/p-319466-mn08-0194.aspx Looks like all that is out there are +/- type readings. What you've done is a great start !
  8. Better start the copyright process ! :mo money::mo money::mo money::mo money::mo money:
  9. You can run 0 psi on the OEM shocks. Personal preference for front pressure. Based on riding type, weight of rider/passenger... Thanks for the "esteemed colleague" reference. I am by no means a mechanic nor anywhere near an expert on the Venture. My knowledge comes from what I've read on VR.org. My answers to posts (like this thread) are what I understand the basic trouble shooting points and common solutions. Suggesting Yamaha recommended tire pressures "zero's" them out or sets a baseline for resolving the issue. Going with higher than recommended pressure might "resolve" the issue but could also mask the real problem. My profession is in I.T. for Toyota where we manufacture cars (work for a car company but I don't build them). I'll do basic maintenance on my bike and cars but other than that prefer to work from instructions or with assistance. I still agree with you that the issue is probably in the rear end if you've ruled out the steering head. Could be related to rear shock (possible it is defective?). I'll throw this out there too though... have you lowered the bike at all? Levelling links? Million Mile Rider - What about other suspension parts in the rear? There is more than just the shock back there. Possible it is the swingarm or wheel bearings? Loose bolt somewhere in the back end? (Million Mile Rider - I did NOT take offense at anything you said... don't think you said anything offensive at all. Just wanted to make it clear that wasn't the reason for my comments in response)
  10. Our condolences as well. Don and Nancy
  11. She is lucky she hit the side of the truck and not head on !
  12. I'll post the standard items.... 1) condition of tires - any tire older than 6 or 7 years should be replaced. Look at DOT code for year/week of mfr 2) do you have a Carbon One lift adapter and lift? If so, do the "steering head test" a) with bike on lift, grasp the forks and see if there is any play. If so, you need to either tighten the steering head, lube the steering head bearings, or replace them b) with bike on lift, do the bounce test of the steering head and also see if it will hold in position with slightly turned. Bounce test is to start the handlebars moving see if it bounces off the stop. Also, with the handle bars turned about 45 degrees, let go and it should not move on its own. If not problem in (a) but the handle bars bounce or move on their own, see in the technical section on tightening the steering head (I've done mine twice... at 10,000km intervals) 3) what maintenance have you done on the bike since you got it other than oil changes? Everything lubed and adjusted on schedule? You can see in the maintenance schedule in your owners manual (or downloaded from this site) how often the steering head is to be re-greased 4) if your tires are in good shape (check wear while you have the bike on the lift), what brand/model do you have front and back? What are your tire pressures? (35 psi front, 40 psi rear - recommended pressures are on a label inside the trunk lid) 5) check you fork and shock air pressures. Do you use a zero loss pump ? Make sure the shocks are zero pressure, test... then adjust to your liking and make sure they are equal 6) rear shock okay? Check the bottom of the shock to see if it has or is leaking. A bad rear shock will affect front end handling (as will a bad rear tire) Hope this helps. Post symptoms from your tests above and if it is still an issue after doing the adjustments/tire replacements... you'll get more expert advice.
  13. Thought I covered the wish list pretty well though !
  14. You didn't reverse the hose and blow the (living) wasps at your neighbors house, did you?
  15. LOL - okay... just teasing ! Bored at work today.
  16. NEW 2013 RSV !!!! "Anniversary Edition" Yamaha announcement that the 2013 RSV will be updated and available in the spring of 2013. Pre-orders starting in November 2012 !!!!! Specs : - VMax 4 cylinder motor NOT de-tuned - full horsepower/torque available - EFI instead of carbs - ABS brakes front and back - lower centre of gravity - reverse gear - updated radio system with intuitive controls - no cassette deck - continuing with current look of the dash but with tach/oil pressure/temperature/battery charging guages - heated grips, and heated driver/passenger seats - available in multiple colours with short order lead time - increase in the number of OEM accessories and options Pricing to be LOWER than 2012 model !!!!! Trade-ins of previous year models will be allowed with highest possible value paid for the old bikes !
  17. Keep it up and you'll have all new parts on your bike ! Sorry about your luck this season.
  18. My '09 has the c-bus connector (cable) in the saddle bag so I had a "standard" connection. I still have my cassette. Using the c-bus connector you can control the iPod from the radio controls on the handle bar (skip songs, go back). You need the c-bus cable.
  19. Just be careful when parking !
  20. Glad you are okay !
  21. Congratulations !!!!!! Don & Nancy
  22. Congratulations !
  23. Would a cb shop be able to help you ?
  24. You want bright... ask for the GE H7616. Not cheap but get a pair and put them both in. One bulb goes out... other won't be far behind.
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