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Vonwolf

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Everything posted by Vonwolf

  1. I really don't want to admit this mistake, but we all have brain farts. When I took the covers off the reservoir I looked at the inside of the right one, saw the added float and all, somehow got it in my head that that was the clutch? Sooo while I foolishly tried to bleed the left "Break" with little success I thought I might as well break the banjo off to see if any fluid came out, there goes the clutch unknown to me, hell I didn't notice my mistake till I was ordering parts tonight. I have the calipers off and they look good and when I fill the correct reservoir break fluid dripped out the banjos dangling by the front forks and my ignorance was confirmed. Earlier I used my favorite tool, a hammer to see if I could get the back break to move, a can of WD and I now have rear breaks nothing I'd trust going around 100, but somethings happening back there so I feel better and if I figure out how to bleed the clutch I might have that too.
  2. It's time to go on to the real problem that I have not really wanted to face, but here it is the hydraulic's; Breaks and Clutch. They have also been sitting neglected for at least 4 years and are a mess, what fluid was in there has mostly disappeared and left a lovely white paste. The rear brake peddle is froze solid. it's a real mess. I tried to blow air through the lines and cleaned things up, I've read about rebuilding the slave cylinder for the clutch and if it has to be done, I'll buy a new one The others I'll rebuild. I have never messed with a hydraulic clutch, I really don't even know where it is yet, so I'll need some advice here. I have searched the site, have a repair manual so I'll go thru the paces I can find, I just wanted to see what others have run into after a bike has been improperly stored for this long. I really don't want to make it into a boat anchor, but it might be too far gone. When my health took a nose dive my priorities changed. I let a few things rot now I'm trying to save what I can
  3. I have my carbs off now and was trying to figure out how to get these plug's out, it seems like the only way is to destroy them. Does anyone know how to remove these plugs, I'm sure my seats are toast, but I don't want to drill them out as it seems the only way to do it to me
  4. I ordered one from Ebay yesterday I've been practicing with the bad one taking it off and putting it back on, it doesn't seem that hard so I'm probably doing something wrong. I saw one youtube video where the guy ground off the metal ridge and used liquid gasket to glue the washers back together one guy said you had to boil them even I knew that would mean buying the whole slider. I found skydoc 17's Ebay Carb. Diaphragm write-up so I think I got it, I know I won't be grinding on it
  5. Ran into another surprise the diaphragm on number II carb was patched up with globs of some kind of liquid gasket, it does help explain why the bike ran rough and seemed way underpowered. I will never understand how some people cobble up something like this and dump it off on someone else, it's not like its harder to do the job right. I bought the bike on EBay for nothing and I knew there was a ton of work to be done but I missed this one big deal, I hate dishonest people. So I disassembled the carb's and ordered the parts to rebuild the carb's and fix the diaphragm, I soaked the carb bodies in Chem-Dip and they cleaned up nicely and hit the diaphragm covers with the buffing wheel and the polished up like chrome but, now I get to wait for the gaskets before I can put them back together and on the bike, then I'll get to see what else got wrecked. I'm sure the bike will run good so that one thing to look forward to.
  6. I got the carbs taken apart with great difficulty it seems the previous owner tried to disassemble them using only an old beat up Philips's head screwdriver, a dull chisel, sledgehammer and a blow torch. It was quite challenging getting them apart with all those stripped out heads. there were a couple jets that looked like if I attempted to extract them it might be the end for them. the good news is it was nowhere near as varnished up on the inside as I expected so I'll get all the rubber and plastic out of them and soak them in some carb cleaner. The carb's outer finish is rough, to say the least, is there a way I can bring them back to looking somewhat improved? Thanks Pete
  7. That is a big load off my mind, thanks it sounds like the fuel pump is doing exactly what its suppose to. The carbs are off I'm certain they're a real mess as I didn't bother shutting the tank off and let the crappy %10 ethanol gas varnish the carbs up good, the slides had a film on them and not moving very well. I have the Carbs off and been soaking them/ cleaning the exterior up. The slides are smooth and function well, thankfully there were no holes in the rubber. Next I have to take the covers off and see how bad the floats, needle valve, seats and all look Thanks for the info on the fuel pump I was hoping it was some kind of safety feature but, my fuel pump on my car will empty the tank and kill the battery before it will stop. Now I only have about 50 more potential problems to look at.
  8. My '87 has been sitting outside on a gravel drive with a good cover made for Ventures, its one of a half dozen projects that I have to get to and its time seems to have arrived. It was giving me a hard time in 2010 when my health took a nose dive so it was left, fuel in carburetors and no long term storage precautions taken. I really half expected the motor to be locked up and the bike to be a boat anchor, but when I jumped the battery with my truck the fuel pump ran and the motor turned over. It even ran a bit when I sprayed some starter fluid in it and it fired up and ran for a second or two. The fuel pump would run for a few seconds then stop as it should but, the carbs were a mess so I pulled them off to clean them up. I turned the key on to check see if fuel was getting to the carbs the fuel pump ran a small amount of gas spurted out of the disconnected fuel line then the Pump shut off? I'm not familiar with this fuel pump but, shouldn't the pump keep running without any back pressure? When I pulled the pump and cleaned things up it still only ran for a few seconds then stopped, when I turn the key off then on the pump did the same thing ran for a few seconds then stopped. Is the pump bad as I suspect, is this a problem that can be repaired or will I need to find a replacement Pump?
  9. I'll try a couple more places tomorrow I'm just kind of vehicular-ally challenged right now as my truck is in the shop, Earl(skydoc 17) just made me a great offer on some coils & a good TCI unit so I might just go the FleBay rout for the wires. I'll get this thing going one way or the other. The biggest problem I'm having is getting the boots it just seems to bewilder the auto parts stores I'v been to so far. Pete
  10. Well I dug down to the TCI unit and it was quite a mess, I'm surprised it ran at all I really don't think it ever ran on all 4 cylinders. It was all kinds of fun getting the TCI out of there the screws securing the TCI were of coarse froze tight. oh boy. Well I got it off and cleaned it up and am now under taking the task of finding some plug wires that is proving to be more difficult as all the auto parts stores I went to acted like I wanted a flux capacitor for a Delonian, needless to say I had no luck so I guess I go the Fleaybay rout. I really think this will work out great, the bike never was very dependable and was pretty much useless to me so if this gets the bike to be a dependable ride I'll be riding the tires off it as it was indented to to. Pete
  11. Thanks Dan I found this set searching ebay and they look good but I want to get things going on this so I'm hoping I can find something like this locally but this will be my back up plan. Thanks Pete
  12. Well the more I looked the worse it looked. Mike sent me some great suggestions and I've pretty much taken the whole bike a part it seems.. I removed the battery tray so I could get a good look at the TCI connections and it was a mess so I'm in the proses of relocating it to the top of the air cleaner and cleaning the whole thing up. I'm sure I saw a thread on relocating the TCI box to the top of the air cleaner, if anyone remembers the thread that would be a big help I've done a few searches but I must not be wording it right. I think I'll do as Gary suggested and pick up a 4 cylinder auto set and replace these old wires that I'm sure are junk. I guess I'll read up on testing the coils as I had to take the faring off to get to them and I don't want to do this again. Pete
  13. I was looking there earlier is the $50 a good price with the coils or just the plug wires alone. I'm also a little worried I'm just buying more old plug wires like mine. thanks Pete
  14. I have NGK caps and there doesn't seem to be a slot for a screwdriver on the plug end? I checked for continuity and thats is a problem on 1 of the boots, I have infinite Resistance or if I mess with it I can get a reading but not good so these boots ether have to come apart or replaced, I hope I can at least get them apart to try to clean them. Can These NGK ends come apart or are they shot? Thanks Pete
  15. Ya I agree I hope its something this simple but I'm usually not that Lucky. Where can I get a set of wires, can I use regular Automotive 8mm wires? Thanks Pete
  16. Thanks Dan I'll give it a shot 1st thing tomorrow Pete
  17. I'm trying to get my bike going its been sitting for a long time, I've had a long running issue with the starting system its never been dependable so I pretty much gave up on it. Well another thread on another members starter switch problems got me looking at mine and long story short I jerry rigged it up so it now will dependably crank with no problems, its still not %100 correct but it works. So now I'm trying to get it running, I had a heck of a time at first, needed to clean the carbs out some ether & its running, not good but it ran. I could tell it wasn't running on all cylinders but I thought it was just dirty fuel system so I let it run and run seafoam, carb cleaner the works. After a while I could tell it was more than the fuel system. I pulled the plugs and only 1 cylinder look right, nice & dry with just a touch of brown on the ceramic.The rest were wet and covered in black suit. I check them for spark & no surprise only the 1 cylinder had a good spark, the rest nothing. I tried WD & checking the connections and got 2 of the cylinders showed a weak spark and the 4th didn't have enough spark to jump the gap on the plug just spark at the ground a little. I'm not real familiar with this type of ignition system so I was hoping some one here might have some suggestions. Sorry this dragged out so long. Thanks Pete
  18. One thing it seems to me that if you grounded the blue/white wire at the starter solenoid and energized the other small terminal would that not activate the starter? I haven't tried that yet but should that not work? I'll give it a shot and see what happens. Pete
  19. Nope the starter switch dose not work at all,clutch in, neutral kick stand up nothing. I'll check the continuity of the diode although I'm pretty sure I already did, can't hurt to be sure Thanks Pete
  20. Thanks I'll check that out maybe get a used one off fleabay Pete
  21. @bongobobny Your right and I don't want to be totally reckless. By jumping the solenoid with the kick stand down and in neutral it will start and run so I think that rules out any device that kills the ignition as a problem. The problem reared its ugly head when I cranked on the starter switch apparently too long because it stooped working. I replaced the solenoid (the manual calls it the starter relay) that didn't help, replaced the whole throttle assm. it was faded so I'm sure the started switch is good. I then went down the line on the trouble shooting the starter circuit with no luck This might explain my desperation and lack of concern for some of the safety features hopefully I'll get it this time around. Pete
  22. I'll look for the diode I'm not sure where its at but I will look on page 7 and see if I can figure it out, I've had this problem for ever I've checked every circuit in the manual I just cant get it. Its very frustrating I can start the bike by jumping the solenoid but thats not very dependable so the bike is kind of useless to me. I guess I'm not that good on trouble shooting this electronics on this monster.
  23. All of these safety switches I just cant get the starter switch to work, I still start the bike but I have a switch hooked to the starter relay (solenoid) and the + post on the battery. It works but if it doesn't start right away well all those amps going thru a 10 Gage wire the smoke starts puffing and soon there's fire. I bought a new right hand throttle Assembly from a site member so I'm sure the starter switch is good. All the possable relays and safety switches are mind boggling, kick stand,clutch,neutral switch on and on. On my riding lawn mower the first thing I do is bypass them. Is there any way to bypass all these switches and just get the starter switch to work or a way to rig a switch up to get the job done. I know the switches are there for safety reasons but as far as I'm concerned if you don't know your in neutral or the kick stand is up you probably shouldn't be riding the bike any way. Any help would be greatly appreciated its been a tough few years and the funds are tight so I really need a cheap quick fix if there is one. Thanks Pete
  24. I use Auction Century to snipe and as far as I'm concerned it the only way to go. If the parts worth x$ to you; bid it and no one sees it till the last 3 sec. if I win great if not no time wasted and sure as day that part will be back again. I like to try to get the auctions that end in the middle of the night, some times they fly under the radar and you steal the part. Sometimes not always Pete
  25. I don't use my CB but from what I see most riders just use the CB for Bike to Bike communication so you relay don't need the big whip antenna, a short one that fits under a bike cover would be nice. I hate having to take the whip off every time I need to cove my Bike. Looks great thanks Pete
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