Vonwolf

The sad thing is, I had an extra cap and wire laying around because I replaced only the caps that didn't check out with the ohm meter. The only reason I changed it this time and number 3 for that matter, was they gave me a good jolt when I'd foolishly tried to pull them with the bike running it verifies spark, but a bit uncomfortable. I should have just changed them all out in the first place, live and learn, some day maybe.

I changed the nimber 2 cap and wire and that did the trick, it's running on all 4 cylinders, probably for the first time since I've owned it. I picked up a 41R-11 on EBay last night, from a seller that takes returns if it's dead, but it looks like I might not have needed it after all. I'm sure a backup unit won't kill me, but I wish I would have changed the plug and wire set 2 days ago

Agreed!

Thanks, Dan, I've cleaned and cleaned those connections, not to mention I've plugged and unplugged them dozens of times, so I hope they're not the problem. I'll probably clean them a few times more just in case, and I can't think of anything else to do?

I don't think that chip is on the HSA-19, at leat every picture I have doesn't have it like the HSA-18's do, I found a pretty good site on Vision TCI repair - http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/IgnitionFAQ.html#a12p0. It says's they're pretty much universal and has a lot of good info.

I've been watching eBay for a while, in 2010 when I first started checking into them they were around $50 to $100. I let my bike sit till recently and am back looking and it appears they found gold in them as they are all well over $200, I just bought one for $132 off EBay, but it turned out to be bricked. I had to go thru EBay to get a %50 refund, the vendor tried to give me the no refunds on electronics bit. I accepted the %50 offer because I had some luck repairing the original unit and curiosity got the better of me, the EBay TCI look great on the outside, much better than mine but it was a mess inside. I've ordered the diodes that always go bad and resistors and capacitors that I can see are shot, but I don't hold out much hope for it. All this and I'm not even convinced the TCI is the problem. The only thing I'd say is if you buy a used unit get it from a trusted seller, they can look great on the outside when in fact it's near death or save up for an Ignitech you know is going to work

I'll Throw my '87 in- Build Date is 8/86 Mileage is 36 Thousand JYA1NL00XHAO1O639 The title says it was originally Blk/Sil I guess Black/Silver, but by the time I bought it the color was some god-awful Green. This is the first time I've really looked at the title so it appears I'm unintentionally going back to the original color, I wish they would have left it alone I like Black and Silver

All my Caps and wires are new, but I checked them anyway and the all are 4.7K. I think they're supposed to be 5k but there new so it's probably just a crappy Meter, I think they are good * I checked the Meter and it shows .6k when I touch the bare leads so that puts it around 5.3k so I think they're good ** When I try to take the boot off with the motor running I get a good jolt, so I know there's spark. I have a new boot and some wire so I'll change it out, might stop some spark energy from bleeding out

I'm amazed at how well the Ebay TCI looks, but when I desoldered the board and got a look at the other side of the board, wow what a mess. There's obviously been a small stream that flowed thru the board compleat with rust, not only the usual 8 burned out Diodes, but many resistors, you name it. This puppy's shot, no bringing it back to life, He's dead Jim. I feel a lot better about my ugly Box, my bike runs great on 3 cylinders, no 2 is giving me fits, its come down to I have to a least try a known good TCI to know for sure, it will happen some day

Thanks, Dingy that's the information I needed. I know your TCI is the way to go and it is priced less than most used TCI's on EBay, but I'm financially challenged right now so I'm forced to go the cheap route and as usual it seems to have bit me in the Hind Quarters. This TCI look to be in great shape much better than mine, but when I plug it in the motor just spins like it’s not even there. Curiosity is getting the better of me; I really want to desolder the board to get a look at the other side, but I doubt I could repair it

Well naturally the seller on EBay said no returns on electronics so I had to go thru Ebay to get any action, I know how EBay works with negative feedback so tried I tried to go directly to the seller first. He offered to give me half my money back along with a nasty message so any empathy I had for him just vanished. EBay has a guarantee policy so I know I can get a full refund, but I am tempted to take the offer just to open it up and see if I can fix as it was fairly cheap. Another question I have is this unit for a different motor altogether and that is why it doesn't work on my bike? I'm fairly certain it is for a Venture other that an 83 but, mine is a 46-11 Type TID14-34, not a 46-10 Type14-28 and the tag is blue not green a minor difference I'm sure, but it might be important. I need some input from someone more knowledgeable than myself

What Great White advises is very important if you keep the TCI in the original position, it almost sitting right on the Heads I doubt the heat is very good for it. I like most have moved mine so my heat shields are long gone time will tell how well the rest of the electrical components hold up

If you're looking to get a new starter I would really recommend you upgrade to a 2nd gen or a VMax 4 brush starter. You would not believe the difference PS I just noticed it is a 2nd gen starter and yes it will work, great as a matter of fact as it is a 4 Brush starter you'll love it

Dingy's TCI is really not all that expensive actually many stock TCI's on eBay are more expencive. I'm just not too good at saving money

I sure would love to get one of Dingy's TCI's, unfortunately, it's a little out of my price range right now. For now I'm stuck with trying to find a deal on 30-year-old Tec and hoping it still functions like it supposed to, strike one. It looks like I'll have to wait for one to turn up from a more reliable source and not made out of gold like most I've seen

I have an 87 Venture Royal with a 41R-11 Type TID14-34 TCI unit. I just purchased a TCI unit off Ebay that is a 41R-10 Type TID14-28 that is flat out dead and I'd like to confirm its compatibility with my bike just to cover all bases before I try to return the defective TCI. The 41R-10 looks great when I took the back off so I'm really disappointed, I guess the hunt goes on for a good TCI, My unit is on the left and the Ebay unit is on the right in this picture- My bike starts right up with the original 41R-11 TCI, but when I try the 41R-10 TCI I get nothing it just spins and spins, not even a backfire or pop of any kind so I’m guessing the 41R-11 is no good, but I’d like to there’s not a compatibility issue. Thanks

This one helped me- http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?86427-Peek-inside-my-TCI-if-you-will There are more if you need it, I found all 8 diodes on my TCI were bad, but they weren't very hard to replace

With my carb problems over I look into the ageing TCI and after I opened it up found that 8 diodes had exploded so I ordered the diodes should get them nex week, I hope I can save my TCI, we'll see. While I'm waiting for the diodes now would be a good time to tackle the rear breaks, the front breaks and the clutch were an easy fix so I was hoping the rear would also turn out simple? Well not so much the master cylinder had transformed into one solid block of aluminium completely fused together and the reservoir's 2 screws for the lid were, of course stripped out I had to drill them out big fun. I fixed the reservoir but the rubber gasket is fully expanded and will no longer collapse into itself making it useless. I guess I need the whole setup master cylinder and reservoir if anyone has one they don't want anymore let me know

My front plastics has been off my bike for a long time and reading this just reminded me there is a slow leak somewhere on my CLASS system. It is probably a good time to find it, but The control is not connected is there a way to jump power to the compressor or a way to hook up a regular compressor so I can pressurize the system to find the leak without messing with the computer control?

Oh I understand now, did they originally cover the boaard with some kind of glue that transformed into that brown goo all over the board?

Their wrong it will work and it is a 4 brush starter. I checked and rechecked all these numbers half said they worked the other half said it woudn't. It will work and it is a 4 brush starter, I just went through all this doubting/ cnanging my mind just to find out if it has no screws in the centerfeild like ours do then it a 4 brush. They make an increadable diffrence you'll love it

Thanks for the information, I desoldered all of the diodes out and they all were toast. I'll probably have to send out for the diodes as I think the Radio Shacks here were closed too. I will probably try to get another TCI if I can find one and use this one as a backup, but things rarely go as planned. When you seal these backs up do you have to isolate the heat sinks so they don’t load up with silicon?

Mine came out without removing the side cover it should side right out, well with a bit of persuasion

My Bike runs pretty well, but it has been sitting for years and I suspected the condition of the TCI. I came across this thread and decided to desolder mine to get a look at my board to be sure of its condition while it wasn't as bad as I feared most of the diodes have puffed up really bad. I’ll put up a picture so you can get an idea of its condition- The bike runs good on the stand, I don’t know how it does under load so I guess the TCI is somehow still working. FlinFool in post 11 mentioned if the diodes fail a Yamaha proprietary chip will be damaged rendering the unit unrepairable. I'm sure some of the diodes failed, they sure fell apart easily enough when I touched them, but the motor ran ok before I removed the TCI. So I need a little help here, is it worthwhile to replace the diodes and if it is does anyone know the replacement part number of the diode?

I finally got time to reinstall the carburetors and airbox, but nothing else and the bike starts right up, idles perfectly and rev's up great. I still haven't had time to balance the carburetors, work on setting the pilot screws, I didn't even have to set the idle and the motor runs really well. I'm getting a few pops here and there, but I'm sure I'll be able to work most of that out. The best thing is I'm convinced the motor is running strong and more importantly it is ging to start when I want it to, now back to the dozens of other issues I need to address to get it back on the road. No small endeavor this time of year working outdoors in this tropical paradise