Vonwolf

I hate to ask the obvious, but when you give it throttle do you have the air box and cleaner together, these bikes don't run at all with the air cleaner off. Well they idle fine, but when you give it the gas it will just bog down.

I finally got around to microwaving what pink BB's I could save and they did turn Blue, it was really cool! I had them in a coffee mug, waived them for about 90 seconds, burned the hell out of my hand when I grabbed the mug, but I had blue BB's in there, it doesn't take much to keep me entertained. Thanks for the advice

Thank's I just saw Digi-key has the for the same $14.47 for the pressure sensors so yes its best to buy from them for all but the UNO R3 Board, they really can get you with shipping. Thanks for a good package I think it's all coming together for me

Verical's site says the minimum order is either 40 unit's from Hong Kong or 20 from the Netherlands? It's been a few months, did they change the minimum or am I reading this wrong? Mouser is a little more expensive, but it doesn't look like they have a minimum order so are they the one to go with?

That's what I was hoping for, but some of the junk wicked the lacquer thinner out of the clear coat and melted its way to the primer. I have lots of sanding to do, at least its not a very big part and who looks at the top of these bikes anyway? I'm sure no one will notice

I finally got around to painting the fairing pieces with Jet Black lacquer base coat/clear coat, it came out ok, nothing like I'm going to win any shows ar anything, but it looks good for being mostly a pile of cracks and other repairs. I suspended the pieces from the ceiling so I could do them all at once and it worked well for the most part- Of course one piece, the false fuel tank not only fell it landed paint side down- Looks nice, right? I used all my paint sooo it looks like it's going to be repainted with a couple of spray cans till I get around to the rear bags and trunk when I have to buy more paint. The sad thing is the tank was already painted black and looked ok I just wanted it all to match. I'll get it right someday I'm sure

That's kind of like the one I bought, but mine was more expencive, the vendor told me it was a 2 brush unit, but when I got it and opened it up it was a 4 brush and works great

I bought a new starter for a VMax I did a whole lot of research on it and asked dozens of question trying to make up my mind, there a more than a few posts on this thread from me about what was the right one to get. Parts books will drive you nuts with false information on the subject, even the vendor I bought my starter from thought it was a 2 brush starter. I was waffling back and forth on what was right when it's really very simple, most VMax and all 2nd generation Venture starters are 4 Brush units. It turned out the one I ordered was a 4 brush unit in spite of what the seller believed, basically if it doesn't have the 4 screws in the center of the case like the first gen's have then it's a 4 brush unit.

I don't mean to sound like a 4 Brush Started cheerleader, but it changed my bike from a useless 800-pound iron garden gnome to a bike that starts everytime hot or cold. I gave up on my bike in 2010 because it would barely turn the motor over when cold, I was amazed it started at all it cranked so slow, but when hot, I had one chance to start if it didn't, well that was it ride over, The bike was useless to me so it sat until I came back here and read about the 4 brush starter upgrade, now it spins the motor like the spark plugs are out, hot or cold it's a different bike. Well, I guess I am a cheerleader as it was the only reason my bike didn't get buried in my back yard next to my XS750.

Thanks; it looks like I have to tear it apart a little further, the blow by seems like a possibility and the valves seem to create instant back pressure so they have to come apart as well. Springs and small parts always seem to launch to parts unknown on me so the advice is appreciated

That’s what I don't understand if I just hook 12v to the red/black wires from the compressor it will work fine, there is suction at the intake and it blows air. Hooked up to the bike and it doesn't pump air anymore, it runs, the solenoids engage, but no air and a small amount of air blows out the intake hose, not a lot of air it just kind of expels air when it should be sucking it in and after a few seconds I get an E2 error code. The contacts are clean and seem to be working, well as clean as a 30-year-old connection can

Thanks for all the information, I had no idea it could be reused. I was actually quite surprised when it dumped all over my workbench and floor, other than seeing rice in salt shakers and some of those little paper bags you see sometimes I've never had to mess with the stuff so it was unexpected on my part. I straightened that little wire "C" clip trying to pull it out and the compressor will not cooperate with me so it looks like I'll be learning all about this thing, like it or not.

I do agree there are better spark testers than the "Mark 1 Voltage tester" but I was actually trying to see if the RPM's dropped off after the plug was pulled. Using insulated pliers to pull the plug is the smart way to do this, but I was right there by the bike and the piers were way over in my work shed and what's a few thousand volts amongst friends? The perfect storm to get zapped by my bike

Thanks' I dumped all of it on the floor and they were all pink anyway so I need to replace it all, I'm not really sure how much it takes. I would be grateful for what you can spare. I'll PM you my address so you give me a shipping cost

I’m having problem with my CLASS system, when I put 12 volts to the compressor off the bike on my work bench it seems to run fine and create pressure, but when I install it on the bike it will not pump up the system and I get an E2 error message, the compressor actually blows a small amount of air out of the intake hose so somehow it seem to run in reverse on the bike. Then I'll take the compressor off the bike, put power to it and it works fine, well as good as this little thing can anyway. It's just kind of strange like the compressor works backward on the bike? When I was working on the Compressor I opened the Desiccant canister and of course it was upside down, I had little pink BB's fly all over my dirty floor. It would be really tough to recover the desiccant if that really is what the pink BB"s are so it looks like it's time to replace the stuff. Does anyone know where I can get the correct desiccant for these compressors?

Sorry Duplicate post and I can't delete it

I had a terrible time with the old 2 brush starters they are the main reason I gave up on the bike in 2010 and let her sit till this year. I learned about the 4 brush starters and it's a different bike. It's difficult to understand a cranking problems with a 4 brush starter(Mine is a New VMax Starter), mine spins the motor like the plugs are out even with my battery only showing as low as around 10 volts. I did upgrade the cables with the Heavy Duty set Dingy sell's as the stock cables are very undersized, but the 4 brush starter made all the difference for me. Your bike was running for a bit so I doubt it's tightening up again, it wouldn't hurt to check it as Jeff s recommends

If you looked at it up close you'd change your mind, it looked like he used a paint brush on most of it. Actually all the work I have in her I probably should have left it alone I could have learned to like it too, but I never do anything the easy way

Might as well update things, I think my TCI problems are behind me now after a whole lot of unnecessary experimenting, wasted time and money the way it normally goes on a budget. I first tried to repair my original TCI as the diodes were all turned to white powder. I'm a carpenter/ home builder by trade my soldering skills might not be the best, but I got things done. I got the motor to run great on 3 cylinders but the number 2 just would not run, it got spark but just wasn't carrying its load. I'm sure those burned out diodes did the TCI no good so I'm sure just my sloppy soldering skills weren't enough to bring it back to complete functionality. A replacement TCI seemed to be needed so on to eBay where I got one for a good price. It looks to be in good shape, much better that mine, but turned out to be a brick. Naturally the seller would not stand behind his product so I had to turn to Ebay, I accepted a %50 refund offer because I was dying to see what the board looked like with the hopes of fixing it. Not likely, I don’t know how it can look so good on the outside and be so messed up on the inside, but she was burnt badly, I’m still going to replace what I can, but I don’t hold out much hope for it. Strike one! I found another TCI still priced reasonably so I placed a snipe and left it alone. I turned out to win that and while I was waiting for it to be delivered I thought I’d change out the spark plug cap and wire as it was giving me a good jolt when I’d pull it to see if the RPM dropped. The bike now runs on all 4 cylinders probably for the first time sense I have owned it. The new TCI arrived Monday and Wow I’ve only seen pictures of units that look this nice, it’s defiantly my main unit and the original is the backup. I know the smart thing to do is check the diodes before they do go bad, but this thing is nice and I messed up one foil lead on the original board (Not real good solder skills) I don’t want to mess this one up although I was able to fix the foil by soldering in a wire to bypass it and they both work great-http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u369/vonwolf1/IMG_0002%20Marked.jpg So I just have to put the rear brake back on and start putting things back together, after I paint things. Lots of work left, but I'm sure the motor is going to start every time and it runs great. I wasn't ging to do anything to a near 30-year-old bike if it wasn't dependable. I just realized I've never posted a picture of her when I first got her- http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u369/vonwolf1/BUw9g3gCGkKGrHgoH-EYEjlLl0H2jBKPNQYDSnw_12.jpg It's a terrible color and I let it sit covered up for years because of the old 2 brush starter and all the nonsense that caused so the poor bike's not as shiny as it was. I hope with a decent paint job it will look as good as it runs

If he had to compress the caliper to get the new pads in it will fill the reservoir with more fluid, especially if there was fluid added over time to make up for the calipers pushing the thinner pads out. I go thru pads fast in my truck when I change them the reservoir look near empty, after the new pads it's full again

Sorry bad terms used, I applied as much negative pressure as my break bleeder could produce, not that much around 2.3 in.HG. The big thing is I start out at 2 volts and it didn't move from there and when I plug it in at idle the RPM jumps right away so I am apparently getting 2 v of advance right off the bat, but nothing changes from there. I was following the manual procedure as best I could, but I can't make very much vacuum I think it was enough to show a problem, but I'm not sure. ** I just noticed my "break Bleeder" is a Mighty Vac so I guess we are all on the same page

I had this problem on my Venture's number 2 cylinder everything checked out fine, but it never fired. It turned out the wires were bleeding most of the spark energy out before it could fire the fuel. I changed the wire and cap and it's firing on all 4 again you never know?

Thanks, I just noticed that

Thanks; I really don't know how the blk/sil got on the title same goes for the first color. I've never really owned a bike with all this plastic on it so I'm not sure how they're made but aren't they formed out of the final colors then pin stripped and all kind of like Gelcoat? It's not real important, but the plastic seems to be black all they way through, god only know where the plastics came from. It's going to end out Black some day ,

I know this is old, but my original 87 Boost Sensor leaked so off to flea bay and I have a Booster that holds vacuum, but the volts stay at about 2V from 0 to as much pressure I can create. These are usually 15 bucks a pop, but it will get old quick getting a bunch of junked Sensors.