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camos

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Everything posted by camos

  1. camos
    The Website say Dri-Slide is a molybdenum disulphide lubricant. According to what I read, the lubricant is carried by a solvent which is supposed to evaporate and leave the lubricant behind.
  2. camos
    Just learned about this DriSlide Bike-Aid lubrication product. Looks like the perfect solution for lubricating linkages and cables but it costs about $12 on Amazon and costs $17 to ship to Canada, typical. Anyone in the Great White North familiar with it?
  3. camos
    A new battery does not necessarily equate to a fully charged battery. It should have at least 12.5 volts when at rest. New batteries can have bad cells, check them with a hydrometer, all cells should be close to the same reading. If the lights are not dimming then it is quite possible the battery is OK but the connections to the starter solenoid/relay are not very good. The positive wires to the solenoid and to the starter are obvious ones to check but since the starter is grounded through the engine and frame, the connections from the frame to the neg on the battery should also be cleaned. Sitting unused all the electrical connections will corrode more than they might when being used regularly. There could be other causes for your problem but electrical connections would be the most likely and are the easiest to fix.
  4. camos
    We voted to keep it on the West Coast this year. Sorry....well not really.
  5. camos
    That's one of the sleekest looking trikes I have seen. What brand is it?
  6. camos
    Anyone got a good source for Elite 3 tires in Canada?
  7. camos
    Note in the pix of Mark's collector: there is an extra crossover piece displayed in the mounted pic that is not in the other pix. The crossover joins the two aft legs.
  8. camos
    They aren't straight but is [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41374]this[/ame] what you are thinking about?
  9. camos
    If there is a difficulty getting non resistor plugs an option worth considering is removing the resistor in the cap. Just disassemble the cap and substitute a heavy copper wire or even a piece of a nail for the resistor.
  10. camos
    Just for the sake of interest, my 96 xv1100 had a clunk when crossing from the road into a drivway. Not a very big bounce at that. Greasing and tightening the head bearings did not correct it but putting in progressive fork springs did. That model does not have the air assist which would/should have also been able to correct the situation.
  11. camos
    I have not yet investigated the caps on my VR but expect MamaYama put resistors in the same as they did on my Virago. Double resistors don't do the ignition system any good. The resistor caps don't do much harm but they are a potential source of corrosion so are about as useful as an appendix. If resistor plugs are easiest to get, substituting a suitable sized nail or piece of copper wire is a simple and effective solution. Where or what is BFE?
  12. camos
    Not sure if this is the one I was thinking of but... [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=138249&postcount=7]VentureRider.Org - View Single Post - Tire change detail questions[/ame] There is an off site link in that post about brakes too. That is the one I was thinking of.
  13. camos
    I'm pretty sure there is a thread on here about proper break-in techniques, unfortunately I don't have time right now to look for it. Essentially the process is running at 50mph - brake hard to 30mph, let cool for a bit then repeat 5 - 10 times. It is not necessary to do this at any great speed so 40 - 20 would be OK. One thing, until the pads are broken in, never brake to a complete stop as that could transfer pad material to the rotors.
  14. camos
    Changing the fork seals is the best bet but try spraying the seals and forks in the area with silicon or dielectric grease then work the forks up and down. Silicon rejuvenates rubber and may soften the seals enough to help them work better for a short time. Erratic misses are often caused by bad connections at the TCI which could also be related to the idle issue. The oil level needs to be at or slightly above the halfway mark in the widow to mostly keep the light off.
  15. camos
    Give it a WD40 douche anyway, gets rid of any moisture that may be in there which will cause corrosion and possibly a short. While you are at it, do the Hazard switch as well. A faulty Hazard switch can affect the turn signal operation.
  16. camos
    The smaller gap is good for a weaker electrical system, except for a failing coil, there is not much excuse for that, just keep the connections clean. The larger gap gives a bigger fatter spark. I'm with SkyDoc on splitting the difference.
  17. camos
    I googled tire cupping and found a variety of responses, mostly relating to tire pressure but also found this comprehensive explanation which also mostly blames tire air pressure. http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/cupping/index.htm
  18. camos
    All good questions about the questions. Unbalanced air in the forks and worn tires can also be a culprit. Isn't guessing fun?
  19. camos
    Isn't cupping caused by an out of balance wheel?
  20. camos
    Tire pressure was my first thought but you said you checked the tires so how about wheel bearings or loose axel nut?
  21. camos
    You could try making two like this: http://faq.ninja250.org/index.php/Is_there_a_carb_sync_tool%3F
  22. camos
    First thing to try is spraying WD40 into the switch, work it a bit then spray again.
  23. camos
    How about using some powder spray deodorant or similar on the area above the drip. If it's too oily at the moment give it a wash and dry then a spray before repeating the process to get the leak.
  24. camos
    All four exhausts don't actually empty into the collector. The two rear cylinders do and then merge with the fronts. The collector has baffles in it that probably are meant to increase the back pressure to effectivley even out the difference in exhaust length between the front and the back. There should be no reason a two into one exhaust for each side would not work although there may be a leaning of the rear cylinders due to increased exhaust flow. I was reading about Sampson and other exhaust manufacturers who say flow is evened and power gained by connecting the two sides with a crossover pipe. I don't know the details about that though.
  25. camos
    A simple rubber fuel line would work but it would be more like a short term solution. Think of connecting and disconnecting the trailer and the fuel line. I think it would be best to have a fixed recepticle at the bike hitch and another behind the trailer hitch that a rubber hose could be plugged into. I'm thinking hydraulic or air quick disconnect type fittings to 1/2 or 3/8 soft copper tubing. These are suitable to be made using hand tools.
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