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camos

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Everything posted by camos

  1. Probably not as cute but I wonder if this can compete? [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CvjOZV7i3lY]YouTube - The New Triumph Rocket III Roadster Motorcycle[/ame]
  2. There is a thread on here about using Coleman or other camp fuel instead of Seafoam. Under certain circumstances, like a serious clean out, straight naptha should work as good if not better than Seafoam and certainly cheaper. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=367077&highlight=coleman#post367077
  3. Rather than driving through a can of Seafoam better to use an equal amount of camp fuel which is straight naptha, the active cleaner in Seafoam. Unless the bike is a barn queen it is unlikely to need the second can of Seafoam but it won't hurt to put in a mix as recommended in the directions, which I'm guessing is probably about one can to 4 tankfuls. May as well save it for a beer or something less tasty but more useful.
  4. If you ground one of the two small contacts and put power to the other, that will activate the coil which activates the main starter circuit. If the engine starts then there is a problem between the solenoid coil and the battery. Either the start switch, frame ground or the battery pos or neg. If the engine doesn't start the problem is with the main contact points in the solenoid, the main start circuit connectors or the starter. Best practice is to properly test before replacing or demolishing. It is fun demolishing things though.
  5. Did you jump the solenoid or did you jump the starter? A solinoid has two circuits. One operated by the start button puts power to a coil activated switch which applies poer to the starter. Jumping the solenoid by applying power to the coil which activates the switch that applies power to the starter. On the other hand, putting power to the large wire at the solenoid that is connected to the starter would essentially jump the starter. Before you assume a bad solenoid try connecting a known good battery, car or truck but not while running. If the engine starts the problem is with the bike battery or the circuit through the start button to the solenoid coil. Clicking is almost always a sign of a poor connection in the starting circuit. Not just the hot side but the ground connections as well.
  6. camos

    New Lights

    The lens on those lights look like they would be flood lights with no discernible beam pattern. I bought some similar ones, different brand though, and found it difficult, actually impossible, to focus them low enough on the road so they would not blind oncoming traffic. This essentially made them good for driving lights only and had to be off for low beam usage around town. What have you found with the lights you have?
  7. Had half a day to spare today so thought I would continue cleaning up the VR. Started up first shot with a little choke, let it warm up for 5 minutes then it just quit. Restarted OK but immediately quit again. Started again but kept a bit more throttle on and the engine kept running but would cut out/slow down then pick up again. Without stalling, sometimes the tach would go direct to zero then back up again. Didn't have the tools handy or the time to start investigating but been thinking the jumping tach might be an indication there is something not right with the TCI. Could be just connections, I hope. Any suggestions as to what might be causing the problem would be greatly appreciated.
  8. Was planning on replacing the rear tire this Winter but just noticed my rear tire is not so good so I'm thinking I better do it now. Got a price of CAD$190 for the Dunlop Elite 3 and CAD$127 for the Shinko 230 Tour Master. Quite a difference. The E3 is accepted as a good choice but what about the 230 Tour Master? I've read some good things about the the TM but not enough to feel confident that it is a good enough choice. Can't seem to find the posts about Shinko I had read so anyone here got one and if so how do you like it?
  9. I would like to be added to the Canada list. Thanks.
  10. OK, thanks. The Malahat is a real fun ride in the rain.
  11. That would be much more convenient, do you also use the PJ1 on the shift linkage? Does it stand up very well to wet roads? Thanks
  12. Thanks for the explanation Bubber. So that seems like it would be a particularly good lubricant for the shift linkage which needs constant attention during wet weather.
  13. The Website say Dri-Slide is a molybdenum disulphide lubricant. According to what I read, the lubricant is carried by a solvent which is supposed to evaporate and leave the lubricant behind.
  14. Just learned about this DriSlide Bike-Aid lubrication product. Looks like the perfect solution for lubricating linkages and cables but it costs about $12 on Amazon and costs $17 to ship to Canada, typical. Anyone in the Great White North familiar with it?
  15. A new battery does not necessarily equate to a fully charged battery. It should have at least 12.5 volts when at rest. New batteries can have bad cells, check them with a hydrometer, all cells should be close to the same reading. If the lights are not dimming then it is quite possible the battery is OK but the connections to the starter solenoid/relay are not very good. The positive wires to the solenoid and to the starter are obvious ones to check but since the starter is grounded through the engine and frame, the connections from the frame to the neg on the battery should also be cleaned. Sitting unused all the electrical connections will corrode more than they might when being used regularly. There could be other causes for your problem but electrical connections would be the most likely and are the easiest to fix.
  16. We voted to keep it on the West Coast this year. Sorry....well not really.
  17. That's one of the sleekest looking trikes I have seen. What brand is it?
  18. Anyone got a good source for Elite 3 tires in Canada?
  19. Note in the pix of Mark's collector: there is an extra crossover piece displayed in the mounted pic that is not in the other pix. The crossover joins the two aft legs.
  20. They aren't straight but is [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41374]this[/ame] what you are thinking about?
  21. If there is a difficulty getting non resistor plugs an option worth considering is removing the resistor in the cap. Just disassemble the cap and substitute a heavy copper wire or even a piece of a nail for the resistor.
  22. Just for the sake of interest, my 96 xv1100 had a clunk when crossing from the road into a drivway. Not a very big bounce at that. Greasing and tightening the head bearings did not correct it but putting in progressive fork springs did. That model does not have the air assist which would/should have also been able to correct the situation.
  23. I have not yet investigated the caps on my VR but expect MamaYama put resistors in the same as they did on my Virago. Double resistors don't do the ignition system any good. The resistor caps don't do much harm but they are a potential source of corrosion so are about as useful as an appendix. If resistor plugs are easiest to get, substituting a suitable sized nail or piece of copper wire is a simple and effective solution. Where or what is BFE?
  24. Not sure if this is the one I was thinking of but... [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=138249&postcount=7]VentureRider.Org - View Single Post - Tire change detail questions[/ame] There is an off site link in that post about brakes too. That is the one I was thinking of.
  25. I'm pretty sure there is a thread on here about proper break-in techniques, unfortunately I don't have time right now to look for it. Essentially the process is running at 50mph - brake hard to 30mph, let cool for a bit then repeat 5 - 10 times. It is not necessary to do this at any great speed so 40 - 20 would be OK. One thing, until the pads are broken in, never brake to a complete stop as that could transfer pad material to the rotors.
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