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Everything posted by camos
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Replacing 10 year old tires is a good idea, they are getting into the range of who knows what could happen. I got my tire at Adrenalin on Pembroke St in Victoria. They had the best price I could find in town but it cost $190+tire levy+taxes for a total of $244. Wasn't paying very close attention to the old tire and it needed to be replaced immediately or taken off the road. Still had a month to go on my insurance so chose to bite the bullet. Kinda kicking myself for getting caught unawares. Motorcycle Superstore had the best price I could find at the time US$130.99 but they don't ship to Canada. One of our members lives on Camano Island offered to be a shipping point. The Anacortes ferry from Sidney costs US$43.90 return for an MC and driver. Might be worth exploring alternate possibilities since you have the time. I occasionally get a weekend off and would like to do some fun rides. I'm renoing my house and for the past year I have had no time for any fun stuff. I commute on my MC from Feb to Nov. I'm hoping once I get back into my house, perhaps this Winter, that there will then be time in the Spring to do some fun runs. There are some great roads in the area.
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Well actually you didn't say that. Quite clearly you made an incorrect and potentially unsafe statement with no qualifications so if anyone is arguing it appears to be you.
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I've been planning to get a plug kit this Winter but did not know there were different kinds of plugs. Can someone recommend a kit with the correct type of plug? Thanks
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Ebay Carb. Diaphragm Replacement!
camos replied to skydoc_17's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I wonder if someone who could do it would put the essential diaphragm purchase info in a thread in the tech library? It's pretty hard to find the necessary info in that very large thread. -
@GaryZ Tatonks was comfortable about hooking up his battery until it exploded just as you have been comfortable about doing the wrong thing for 20 years or so. You said: "I stand by my statement "A charging system does not force current into a load, the load draws it" and I also think you guys do not understand what a load is." and you are almost right. Unlike a 50w light, a dead battery will draw an unlimited load to the max output of the donor charging system. That includes drawing a load higher than it's internal connections can handle, ergo the exploding battery. You are standing on an erroneous assumption that some of us guys don't understand what a load is.
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Protective Covers, Front Forks, 86 VR
camos replied to Zfrebird4's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
For what it's worth, I have a similar set of fork boots on my VR and like the looks of them too. Had a look on the Daystar site and found these ones which might fit, haven't measured the forks to be certain though. -
Well, I say I'm not mistaken. Just because you did it once does not mean you will get away with it all the time. I have not done an exhaustive research into this so I cannot define for you under what circumstances hooking up a car or truck charging system to an MC battery will cause damage. I only know one person who had a problem doing it but have read over the years of quite a number of others who have had wiring burn and batteries overload when hooked to a running vehicle. Just because some seem to get away with doing it or even if it is most, why take a chance? Unless the vehicle has a really bad battery, there is no need to have it running when trying to jump an MC. I can only speculate about the situation you describe, perhaps your battery was not totally dead. A completely discharged battery will try to charge at whatever rate it can and the vehicle system will sense the load and supply up to it's max output which could be as much as 75-100 amps more or less. Take the chance if you want but it is not a good idea in all situations.
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My 90 VR makes me a 1st gen owner but so far I'm only riding my xv1100. I put an Elite 3 on the back of the Virago 3 days ago and it seems to work very well in both the dry and the wet. You in Sooke? I'm in Victoria but with a bit of luck I'll be back in my house in Saanichton in a couple of months.
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Just a little qualifier: Jumping a MC with the car running can very easily melt something since the MC charging system is designed to cope with a fairly low total amperage. Jumping with the vehicle off should not hurt anything on the MC that is in decent shape.
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Almost everybody has their own preferences so I usually try to refrain from giving unasked for advice but I've been thinking about what I would do to organize a computer if I had a terabyte of space... so what the heck. 1. Install Windows on the 80 g drive formatted as one partition. 2. Partition the terabyte drive into 3-4 logical drives. 3. In Disk Management, change the drive letter of 1 logical drive to point to C:\Program Files. 4. Change the drive letter for another logical drive to point to C:\My Documents. 5. Change the Virtual Memory to a fixed amount using the Windows suggested total amount on each of 2 drives, the system drive and one of the un-dedicated logical drives, essentially doubling the size of the cache. Doing 3 and 4 will allow the use of the default Windows folder usage which is most convenient while keeping program data and personal files off the system partition. Doing 5 will prevent the cache from automatically fragmenting the hard drives every time the computer is rebooted. Hope you don't mind these suggestions.
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The bigger HDs are faster. They are all 3.5" so the increased capacity is in multiple disks with multiple heads and higher data density. The bigger drives also generally have larger caches that help to speed things up as well.
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If you find another 80 g drive it will probably cost a fortune. Today without even shopping around you can get a 500 gb for about $50 and a terabyte for $100. With such a small HD it certainly makes sense as suggested to get a new big second one.
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Just in case your son does not know this... If the hard drive has enough room, WinXP can be installed in a different partition which will create a boot menu with the choice of the original and the new install to boot into. None of the programs installed on the original version will work unless they are reinstalled into the second version. With this setup there are two options. First option just transfer the program data files to another HD or a memory stick then do a complete reinstall of Windows. The Dell support disks will erase all data and reinstall XP in the original condition it was when purchased. The second option is to find the corrupt file/s in the first install and fix them. With the computer running on a second version of Windows the system files of the first version can be written to without any problem. There is a possible third option which is to get an upgrade fersion of XP or Vista if you prefer and install that over top of the old XP. I haven't played with Vista at all and only somewhat with XP but I used that trick all the time on W95, W98 and W2K operating system.
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Probably not as cute but I wonder if this can compete? [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CvjOZV7i3lY]YouTube - The New Triumph Rocket III Roadster Motorcycle[/ame]
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Need help dealing with a fuel leak
camos replied to bobcat's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
There is a thread on here about using Coleman or other camp fuel instead of Seafoam. Under certain circumstances, like a serious clean out, straight naptha should work as good if not better than Seafoam and certainly cheaper. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=367077&highlight=coleman#post367077 -
Need help dealing with a fuel leak
camos replied to bobcat's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Rather than driving through a can of Seafoam better to use an equal amount of camp fuel which is straight naptha, the active cleaner in Seafoam. Unless the bike is a barn queen it is unlikely to need the second can of Seafoam but it won't hurt to put in a mix as recommended in the directions, which I'm guessing is probably about one can to 4 tankfuls. May as well save it for a beer or something less tasty but more useful. -
Solenoid Question
camos replied to CrazyHorse's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
If you ground one of the two small contacts and put power to the other, that will activate the coil which activates the main starter circuit. If the engine starts then there is a problem between the solenoid coil and the battery. Either the start switch, frame ground or the battery pos or neg. If the engine doesn't start the problem is with the main contact points in the solenoid, the main start circuit connectors or the starter. Best practice is to properly test before replacing or demolishing. It is fun demolishing things though. -
Solenoid Question
camos replied to CrazyHorse's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Did you jump the solenoid or did you jump the starter? A solinoid has two circuits. One operated by the start button puts power to a coil activated switch which applies poer to the starter. Jumping the solenoid by applying power to the coil which activates the switch that applies power to the starter. On the other hand, putting power to the large wire at the solenoid that is connected to the starter would essentially jump the starter. Before you assume a bad solenoid try connecting a known good battery, car or truck but not while running. If the engine starts the problem is with the bike battery or the circuit through the start button to the solenoid coil. Clicking is almost always a sign of a poor connection in the starting circuit. Not just the hot side but the ground connections as well. -
The lens on those lights look like they would be flood lights with no discernible beam pattern. I bought some similar ones, different brand though, and found it difficult, actually impossible, to focus them low enough on the road so they would not blind oncoming traffic. This essentially made them good for driving lights only and had to be off for low beam usage around town. What have you found with the lights you have?
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Had half a day to spare today so thought I would continue cleaning up the VR. Started up first shot with a little choke, let it warm up for 5 minutes then it just quit. Restarted OK but immediately quit again. Started again but kept a bit more throttle on and the engine kept running but would cut out/slow down then pick up again. Without stalling, sometimes the tach would go direct to zero then back up again. Didn't have the tools handy or the time to start investigating but been thinking the jumping tach might be an indication there is something not right with the TCI. Could be just connections, I hope. Any suggestions as to what might be causing the problem would be greatly appreciated.
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Was planning on replacing the rear tire this Winter but just noticed my rear tire is not so good so I'm thinking I better do it now. Got a price of CAD$190 for the Dunlop Elite 3 and CAD$127 for the Shinko 230 Tour Master. Quite a difference. The E3 is accepted as a good choice but what about the 230 Tour Master? I've read some good things about the the TM but not enough to feel confident that it is a good enough choice. Can't seem to find the posts about Shinko I had read so anyone here got one and if so how do you like it?
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Thanks for the explanation Bubber. So that seems like it would be a particularly good lubricant for the shift linkage which needs constant attention during wet weather.