camos
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Indian regulator/rectifier group buy
camos replied to Dano's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I wondered if the yellow adapter would come out, didn't want to start prying on it if it would just break. The good news is I had a spare and got the R/R installed in my Virago and it works great. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and hopefully will have a complete spare unit for my VR. Thanks for the timely advice. Very much appreciated. -
Indian regulator/rectifier group buy
camos replied to Dano's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Despite Tim's good explanation and pic that displayss everything very well... I managed to reverse the pos and neg wires going into the connector. The problem is I can't get the pins out of the connector to change them over. Anyone know how to do this? -
Interesting looking product. Did you find it in Canada?
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Indian regulator/rectifier group buy
camos replied to Dano's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Seems to me #18 wire is a bit on the skinny side for a 30 amp circuit. I'm glad you mentioned it though since I didn't even think about the size of wire having to fit through the plugs. I already updated the fuse from the glass tube to an ATO type. Both the main fuse and the spare's glass tubes broke while I was trying to get the holder apart to check what was causing the lack of ignition. They were both probably 1996 vintage and pretty much just fell apart. -
Indian regulator/rectifier group buy
camos replied to Dano's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Mounting in the pod will be much easier on the Virago than under the seat which is already full of relays and connectors. Could still be in a bit of a pickle though as the left pod is where I planned to mount the ballast for the HID headlight. Have to do a temp mount of both units before I'll know for sure. @ Snaggletooth: What wire gauge were you thinking of using? The stock is probably #14 off a 30 amp fuse although it might be #12 with thinner insulation. -
Indian regulator/rectifier group buy
camos replied to Dano's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
The R/R on my xv1100 quit working properly a few weeks ago. It was putting out 11.5 v which kept the battery somewhat charged and with the help of a charger it was able to manage my daily commute. On Sunday last the stock R/R gave up the ghost and blew the main fuse. Today I looked into installing the Shindegen mentioned here. The only place with any airflow it possibly could be mounted is under the seat but that position may not be very weather tight. The only other place available is in the left pod that used to contain the AIS. That position is reasonably weather tight but there is not much if any airflow. Anyone got any thoughts on this little conundrum? What's more important, airflow or weatherproof? -
Thanks for the link. I had seen it before but was not sure which patch we were referring to. I like the other patch better and think it would be perfect if VR.org was an option for it.
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Oops, did I say that out loud?
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How did you ever come up with that meaning? Everyone knows that RTFM = Read The Fine Manual. Everyone does know that.... right?
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My mounts arrived today. They look great. Thanks a lot for all the effort you have put into setting this up for us.
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Dang, like that's going to happen.
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The Westbound vehicle is the one on the right. I got the deer one wrong. I don't think there would be time to make the choice of hitting it at an angle although if there was time I would be aiming for it's rear end which would probably put me on an angle. I'm also pretty sure that at the time I would not give a rat's ass about minimizing damage to the animal. It would be all about saving me. The double hazard sign got me. The cab and trailer in the rear view mirror I disagree with. If I can see the cab, not just the grill, then that is enough clearance for me. The centre line is a 2-way turn lane, never a passing lane. Do I need re-education?
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Just tried the IE version 8 that comes with Win7 and the cheeseburger Rolodex works fine on the very wet coast of Victoria.
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It's such a bonus when an occasional day with dry roads happens so I can accelerate in the twisties without a pucker. Small minds can enjoy small things.
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I don't know where your commute is but in downtown Victoria cyclists are on the sidewalks about as often as they are on the road. I am so tempted to clothesline them when they go by me. There is a bylaw against riding on the sidewalk but I have never seen it being enforced. Bicycles are considered vehicles and have the right to be on the road and are required to follow the same rules of the road as all other vehicles. There are lots of really stupid, self centered people on the roads and cyclists are probably no worse than the rest of them. Many of our roads have cycle lanes but not all do and I don't mind cyclists riding in a sensible manner. I don't like cyclists that can't seem to decide whether they are a vehicle or a pedestrian. My personal opinion is that bicycles should have to be registered and licensed in the same manner as motor vehicles. It is not about using the road but rather to enable fines and suspensions for stupid cyclists just like we have for stupid motorists.
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On occasion I have ridden my bike around the driveway without a helmet but I always wear one on the street. It's probably just as well since last week I was on my scoot, (Honda Jazz) came around a parked car heading into a gated compound, saw the gate 3/4 open but thought it was closing and grabbed for the only brake available. I'm in this 90 degree turn doing about 20 kph, and panicked, I guess. Unfortunately my right hand was holding the swipe card folder so the only brake available was the front one. Pretty much came to a stop before the front wheel locked up and popped out from under us. That would be me and the scoot. Didn't slide but whacked my helmet on the concrete pretty good so it has some nice scars. Hate to think what would have happened if my head had been naked. This morning I'm off to work and there is a skiff of snow on the ground from last night but the roads were clear so I rode the Virago as usual. Half way into town and within about half a kilometer the conditions changed from our usual ho-hum winter weather to full blown back east style weather. There was about 5 inches of snow on the side of road and packed snow and ice on the road. Anyway, long story short, I dumped the bike at about 40 kph. Kinda like that video of the Vision on here recently except I didn't touch the front brake and I was properly dressed. No damage to me or the helmet this time but the potential was there. I was very stupid to have continued and very lucky I did not get run over by the following traffic. I suspect most of you won't be doing really dumb things such as I have just related but to me, a helmet is just as important as good tires, perhaps more so.
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The 45Magna may be a 750 but its 4 cylinders and 80 hp make it about equal to a 1200 V-twin. My 1100 Virago has only about 60 hp. The first bike I bought when getting back into riding was a Virago 500. It was good to learn on because it is light but too small once I got proficient. If your son is already riding and is happy with a cruiser the xv1100 is a better choice than the xv500. Keep in mind 4 cylinder 750s are way more powerful than the 750 V-twins.
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If you are still using that Dr. you really should consider getting a different one who is more knowledgeable about the Human body structure. If you care to look in daily life, you will see people who have very narrow wrists and people who have very thick wrists without being under weight or overweight. Wrists are generally an easy place to see bone structure as there is not much muscle in that area. Then of course there is the description that SilverT gave which is also quite noticeable. Not casting any stones here but some people hardly notice anything.
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That weight might be OK for your frame or not but it mostly depends on how your doctor calculates obesity. Some doctors have been using a faulty method of calculation. Here is a snippet from Wikipedia about the Body Mass Index often used by some, even doctors, to judge possible obesity: BMI provided a simple numeric measure of a person's "fatness" or "thinness", allowing health professionals to discuss over- and under-weight problems more objectively with their patients. However, BMI has become controversial because many people, including physicians, have come to rely on its apparent numerical authority for medical diagnosis, but that was never the BMI's purpose; it is meant to be used as a simple means of classifying sedentary (physically inactive) individuals with an average body composition. For these individuals, the current value settings are as follows: a BMI of 20 to 25 may indicate optimal weight; a BMI lower than 20 suggests the person is underweight while a number above 25 may indicate the person is overweight; a person may have a BMI below 20 due to disease; a number above 30 suggests the person is obese (Al C) (over 40, morbidly obese). For a given height, BMI is proportional to weight. However, for a given weight, BMI is inversely proportional to the square of the height. So, if all body dimensions double, and weight scales naturally with the cube of the height, then BMI doubles instead of remaining the same. This results in taller people having a reported BMI that is uncharacteristically high compared to their actual body fat levels. In comparison, the Ponderal index is based on this natural scaling of weight with the third power of the height. However, many taller people are not just "scaled up" short people, but tend to have narrower frames in proportion to their height. It has been suggested that instead of squaring the body height (as the BMI does) or cubing the body height (as the Ponderal index does), it would be more appropriate to use an exponent of between 2.3 and 2.7. [/url]
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When I tested it I did just what you suggested DanC. Turned out to be the bulb. The filament appeard sound but there was discoloration around the base that indicated heat. Must have been just a coincidence that two lights on the same side went out in the same manner. Thanks for the suggestions. Help is always appreciated.
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I'm going to assume there was a real question in there and accept the challenge. Using 1700 works to clearly identify the hour with no minutes and also, 17:00 looks like seventeen hundred even though there are only 60 of those hundred being used as minutes. Using 17 could mean either 1700 or 0017. That explanation works for me, does it work for you? What I have never been able to figure out is why "they" say niner instead of nine. Nine is as unique sounding as any of the other numbers. On another note. No PMS across the ditch from you. I ride to work every day on my bike and then ride a scooter all day at work. Missed riding 2 days so far this winter due to snow or ice.
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Don't know how long, but for quite a while. Their price was only marginally better (about $15) than Victoria Motorcycle. Buying local is OK if you are in a rush or have no time to arrange a delivery/pickup in the US. Seems many/most of the local shops still figure we islanders are stuck with whatever they want to charge. I'm ready, I get some Saturdays off and all Sundays. Haven't had a fun ride since last fall. Bit depressed tonight as I lost the right side cover on my way to work this morning. It's hard to find replacements. They handle great. Can't remember exactly what I've got on them but somewhere around 15000 Km (about 9000 miles) and they hardly look worn. Seems like they will last a reasonably long time.
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No doubt that it is but a headlight kit and one for two driving lights plus a spare bulb for each is mucho dinero...close to 300 Canuck Bucks which makes me itch.
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I bought the rear tire at Adrenalin on Pembroke Street. Unfortunately I don't recall what I paid but it was the best price I could find in Victoria. I bought the front tire from Motorcycle Superstore and had it shipped to Washington, picked it up and installed it there. The shipping was a lot, lot cheaper. At the same time I ordered a set of fog lights and a horn. Picking everything up at the same time, the savings paid for my trip plus a bit.
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I don't have any experience with the D404 but I did run Bridgestone S11's on my xv1100. They came with the bike and lasted very well. I put a little over 18000 miles on them and they weren't new when I got the bike. The tires would track on bridge decks and skitter on tar snakes, particularly in the rain. I didn't hate them but I didn't like them. The Bridgestones were replaced by E3's and I absolutely love the difference in handling. There is no tracking on bridge decks and tar snakes are rarely felt in the rain. My Virago gets ridden every day to work rain or shine. There have been only two days that we had snow on the road so my car got some exercise but lots of rainy wet road days. I used to dread rainy trips on the Bridgestones but with the E3's they are a piece of cake. I should think the MR90-18 and the MU90B16 E3's would work just fine on a gen1. I sure hope so as those are the ones I was planning on getting for my 90 VR when I eventually get it on the road.