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camos

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Everything posted by camos

  1. camos
    There isn't much point in syncing dirty carbs. Since the bike is new to you and it appears you do not really know what state the carbs are in, I would suggest you do not go ahead with the carb sync until you have run at least a full can of Seafoam through using 1/2 can per tankful and then run a tank of straight gas though it. There is no guarantee Seafoam will completely clean everything in the carbs but it does a very good job within its capabilities.
  2. camos
    I guess a trip to Walmart is on the agenda for tomorrow to find out what they can tell me about the cell phones they sell. The cheapest they show on their website is $29.
  3. camos
    I was meaning disposable in the sense of use up the minutes, throw it a way and get another one instead of just changing the card. I wonder if Walmart in Canada would carry a phone that will accept cards from Walmart in the US? Perhaps I'm making this more complicated than necessary.
  4. camos
    Do the prepaid cards fit in any phone or are they more like a disposable phone?
  5. camos
    I don't have a cell phone and don't particularly want one. That said it appears that a cell phone could be considered as a necessary piece of safety chrome. I'm coming to Cody so if I buy one in Canada, can I make calls in the US or do I need to buy one in the US for that? Obviously I know squat about this topic so any reasonably accurate info will be much appreciated.
  6. camos
    Do you think heating up would cause the oily crud around the switch to become more conductive? The LCD panel on the CMU is not working so to test the switch circuit continuity would it be best to use an ohmmeter with one lead at the plug end and the other on the case? Indeed, this little project has taken too much time and effort to not spend a couple of dollars more on a new spring and contact. In one of the pix in your earlier thread you show the replaced switch covered in silicon. Did that stand up to the hot oil treatment for a while? Do you still think it is worth doing? I don't remember exactly but the prices you have are about what they are at the local dealer. The contacts don't seem to be grooved at all. The wires on mine seem to be well connected and the only thing I can see that doesn't look good is the heat shrink on one of the wires has come about 3/4 off. Considering the terminal screws are open to the environment that does not seem like a serious flaw. When that area heats up I would think the brass contact pin would get longer and provide a better connection. Perhaps the spring loses it's strength when heated.
  7. camos
    Yes that is the problem that needs to be fixed. Actually, not only does the neutral light go out but the gear indicators go out as well. Just as well. What is in the way the most is the clutch line fitting and secondly the shift shaft. Yes, it didn't want to pull out but after rotating it came easy. The pin is definitely worn, close to but not quite a 1/8" flat, probably 3/32". I'll see if I can get a new one, can't be that expensive. Mine is a Phillips head and was probably not loctited as it came out fairly easily. I did not pull the spring out of the hole to look at it but it seems to be springy if that means anything. What exactly need to be done to fix whatever is wrong here? The whole area was very grungy looking, the pin is worn but probably not excessively and one of the wires has the shrink coming off at the ring connector. That wire did not appear to be touching anything it shouldn't but with the amount of crud in the area it would not be surprising if a short did develop. Perhaps that is why it quit after warming up.
  8. camos
    The neutral light comes on and works properly until the engine gets up to temp then goes out. At that point putting the side stand down will kill the engine. I'm just assuming the problem is with the switch.
  9. camos
    OK, the telephoto comment was tongue-in-cheek but those pix show way more apart than mine is. Compared to the corruption in the crevasse from Hell where my switch is mounted yours is as pristine as a bride dressed in white. So far I have only taken off the aft cover. It looks like the internal shift rod will make it difficult to get the switch out, or at least in without losing the three mounting screws more than once. With the stator cover off there would be much more elbow room to work. Unfortunately I did not order a gasket for that and I don't know how much trouble I can get into by removing it. The engine oil was not drained and I laid the bike down on the crash guards to open it up. So far that seems to be working OK but I'm not sure it would be adequate if the other cover were removed. I was able to put a screwdriver on each of the three mounting screws and loosened them. They weren't very tight. Well, I suppose I could remove the switch as it is and worry about the difficulty of getting it back together when the time comes. I thought red loctite was not appropriate for plastic.
  10. camos
    How much needs to be disassembled to be able to R/R the switch? I removed the aft cover and have spent an hour or more cleaning that gunked up area with naphtha and a toothbrush before I could actually identify the switch. I think I could remove the switch as it sits but doubt being able to reinstall it. Gary, your pix of the switch in position are very misleading. First everything is so unbelievably clean and second, mine has to be 3 or 4 times deeper than your pic seems to indicate. Did you take them with a telephoto lens? By the way, thanks a bunch for the pix and other info you have posted on this fix. They have been very helpful and will be more so once I figure out how to get at that switch.
  11. camos
    I didn't know Action was a Yamaha dealer. I'll have to check them out. It's kinda out of the way for me, being as it is in the deepest darkest reaches of Esquimalt. The only time I have been to Action is to deliver my Honda work scoot for service. As for getting parts for my, now two, bikes I've gotten most accessories online for a much better price than they could be had locally. It would take planning to get small stuff like gaskets in a timely manner although it seems the dealer has to order them anyway. I probably should get familiar with a good and nearby online supplier for the long term. Living on the island makes it impossible to have a cheap pickup point like SilvrT has. Thanks for the suggestions. I'm tackling the gear indicator switch tomorrow and perhaps the LCD display board if things go well and I can drum up the courage.
  12. camos
    Probably good advice but a bit too late as I stopped by S&G, as they are on my way home from work, and ordered the case gasket and the o-ring. Those two pieces were about $8.50 including tax and will take a week to get here. Getting to Action would probably have cost me $2 in gas... I'm rationalizing here... Oh well not likely too much difference in that moderate price anyway but I will be more careful next time. Gotta get a fuel filtre next. Do they carry them at Canadian Tire? Thanks for the input, hope you are enjoying your trip. I'm envious.
  13. camos
    I'll check and see if the gasket is readily available before taking the cover off just in case the old one can be re-used. Putting the question another way, where do those wires come out of what ever they are in? I can see a couple of connectors above and behind the aft case cover but rather deep inside the frame. In any case, I guess it will all become clear this Sunday when I take it apart.
  14. camos
    Yes but a gasket for the middle gear cover will probably be needed. What about where the wires come out of the case, is there a grommet or just use RTV?
  15. camos
    Rick, I haven't been to the dealer yet. Just though I would ask about other sources first. Kevin, anyone local you prefer? I've been to the dealer, SG Power, a few times and most always leave feeling skinned. I prefer Adrenalin and Victoria Motorcycle but don't know if they can get OEM type parts.
  16. camos
    I need to fix the gear indicator and have read in the tech section that I will probably need new gaskets and O-ring. Is there a good place to get them in Canada?
  17. camos

    Dremel

    camos replied to camos's topic in General Tech Talk

    There are actually two straight mandrels in the kit with different size end screws. Good idea, if a tool is difficult to use it will not likely be used often. Not to mention, I can see me fumbling that screw and losing it without too much difficulty. I think that would be very useful too... added to my look out for it list.
  18. camos

    Dremel

    camos replied to camos's topic in General Tech Talk

    Hmm, I didn't see it and every part has it's own spot in the tool box. There are a lot of parts in the kit that require a naked spindle so there must be one. I better have a close look. There is a diamond cut-off wheel and drill in the kit but no work light. So far I have only used the tool with the flexible extension and a light on the motor wouldn't be any help. Seems very handy though, hang the motor on the bike and work with the extension. Only took a couple of minutes to clean off the previous patch material from the tab. Bought some Q-Bond last Friday and will hopefully get time to fix a few broken bits on the VR tomorrow.
  19. camos

    Dremel

    camos replied to camos's topic in General Tech Talk

    Hah! I knew it would be something obvious that I had missed. Never even noticed that little screw. Perhaps that is also the answer to a question I had not asked yet. There are also grinding wheels and sanding discs in the kit. Do they mount to the end of the sanding drum using the same screw? Thanks for your help.
  20. camos

    Dremel

    camos posted a topic in General Tech Talk

    I finally bought a dremel kit, mainly to fix a few broken tabs on the fairing but I'm sure it will be very useful for other things too. What's up with the drum sander bit? There is a rubberish drum on an armature and some sanding tubes that apparently slide on the drum. There is nothing I can see that will hold the tubes in place and even light pressure makes them slide up or down. Obvious or not, what am I missing?
  21. camos
    For an islander that would be $113 minus the cost of the ferry = $13 saved. I ordered some E3 tires for my Virago and a few other things a while ago which were all shipped to Washington for free. Went over on the ferry to pick them up and stayed for a few days of sightseeing. Didn't save anything but it paid for my trip so I figure I came out ahead.
  22. camos
    Here is another non answer to your question and perhaps even worse, it's a question. Anyway, why not buy the tires online and have them shipped to Cody for installation? Cross border shipping for tires is a killer.
  23. camos
    A Throttle Rocker came with my Virago. I only used it occasionally when taking a longer trip and would take it off whenever I left the bike out of sight for any length of time. Mostly I just commute and don't go anywhere so the Rocker sat in my house. After a few years, I found it in a drawer and thought what's the point of having it if I never use it. So I put it on. Three days later I was at the municipality paying my taxes, came out to find a guy on a Harley in the next stall over. We chatted about this and that then he left. Then I left and don't you know the Rocker was gone. It's gospel, lock it or lose it.
  24. camos
    I just did all the cables on my Virago today. The only cable that will need oil on the Venture is for the choke. No special tool is needed although shops may use a cable luber it isn't necessary. A piece of stiff paper or light cardboard or thin plastic like from a milk jug. A small 1 1/2" or so piece wrapped around the sheath to form a funnel then taped tight works like a charm. Use just a dribble of clean motor oil. Put a cloth under the lower end of the cable to catch the oil that makes it to the far end.
  25. camos
    When I had the circuit board out, to my untrained eye the solder traces and joints looked smooth with no cracks. What about checking continuity to see if there is a cold joint that doesn't look bad? Is it difficult to figure out which trace connects to the plug terminal? Or is that not a good idea? Gary are you suggesting running the iron along the traces to resolder them or just redoing the wires that poke through? Under the circumstances with the bike just sitting on it's center stand for a year or so I'm kinda doubtful that a solder joint is a likely cause. To me the most vulnerable and therefore most likely cause would be oxidation or corrosion at a ground connection somewhere. I still haven't found where the neg term of the battery is connected to the frame or engine. Do I need to remove the fairing to find all the ground connections?
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