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camos

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Everything posted by camos

  1. Had a little oopsie today and cracked the swivel part of the mirror. The base is still good and no other damage to the bike. Had a quick search on eBay and did not find any for sale. Found a few old threads referring to tapping the base for aftermarket MC mirrors or perhaps using Ford Ranger mirrors, 91 or earlier I think. Anyone done either of these mods? Only 14 days before I need to leave for Cody and I'm having a panic attack.
  2. This may be a bit off topic and it is not about a Venture but I got 18000 miles from a Spitfire II on the rear of my Virago and a bit more from the front tire. I switched both tires over to the E3 and noticed a dramatic improvement in handling. No more tracking on steel bridge decks (front) and no more dancing on tar snakes in the wet (both). The E3 might cost a bit more but should give better value with a longer life and better handling characteristics.
  3. Is anyone going to Cody from the neighbourhood of Ohio? Dingy has a spare fan for me and rather that mailing it to B.C. I thought if anyone was passing close to Mansfield there might be a chance to get it delivered by Pony Express.
  4. That could possibly be considered an understatement twigg. This bike will also be the newest old Venture in existence. Could even be faster than blue. Back on track... Tonight I installed a fused switch directly to the fan connector on the left side. I initially started with a 10 amp fuse same as the stock configuration. It blew so I put in a 15 amp one and it's working. Guess the fan is on it's way out. I was tempted to try subbing a 15 amp fuse in the stock fan circuit but decided there was no point in taking a chance on blowing a possibly expensive component.
  5. Well you can only do what you can do. I'm sure once you are done you will be showing all of us some pix of your new Venture Rocket in action. I will just have to be content with twiddling my thumbs until then.
  6. No I did not know that. Dual systems, one new fangled and the other old fangled... very interesting. Thanks for letting me know that as it might come in handy some day. Where is this switch located? I remember years ago that Ford had a G-force switch installed in the 4x4's that would cut the engine ignition if tripped. A friend of a friend was jinking around and his truck quit... in the boonies and in the middle of a stream no less. This fellow ended up getting his truck towed a rather long way and had a mechanic, unfortunately not a Ford mechanic , work on it. After a number of hours some information came to light that this switch was mounted behind the glove box liner. Out of sight but easy to get to. This guy was not a happy camper.
  7. I'll be in Cody WY in 20 days. I'd love to see your newly refurbished bike there. Thanks Gary, I'll PM you.
  8. Holy thunder Batman! Partshark lists the motor for $259.66. That's downright evil. Thanks Gary... I think... No, seriously thanks Gary.
  9. Learn sumpin new every day. I have a glue gun but have hardly ever used it. How do you tell what temp glue it handles? Wattage or some other way?
  10. The kill switch is actually a very good thing to have if you fall over and can't reach the ignition key. If for some reason there is an impending collision, cutting the engine before impact would likely be better than doing it after. In my case, the CMS is not working so I have no gauge and the reserve switch is the only backup. To compound the issue I have been riding the bike for only two days and do not have a clue what mileage it is getting. Today on my way home from work the engine started to sputter so I pulled over and turned the petcock to reserve after which she ran fine. The trip gauge read 217.8 km and I put in 16.5 litres which would make it somewhere around 30 miles per gallon. This is not very good but there has been a lot of idling while I messed with things so I expect it is lower than it could be. In any case I think it is fairly certain my engine is not running up to par. @ FrankD: Thanks Frank, I think I've got it sorted out now.
  11. Is this "high temp hot glue" the kind of glue used in a glue gun or something else?
  12. I did say way back that the fan would run when connected directly to the battery however, there was no fuse in that circuit so the fan could still be causing the problem. Agreed twigg, under normal circumstances a switch should not be necessary. In this case, I have an unused switch with wires that go down to the area of the fan so hooking it to a fused circuit will be easy. This would tell me if the fan is the issue and would provide a temporary alternative if the fan is working properly.
  13. I'll try to remember to take some pix. They might end up getting installed in a convenient place rather than where I want them due to time constraints though. The lights I ordered are standard type 5 3/4" headlight buckets with hi/lo capability so it is probably not necessary to get into anything fancy like using diodes. Never thought of trying NAPA, ours is a bit small but perhaps they can order them if necessary. No Autozone here. Thanks for the link. I'll update this thread when something starts happening, which hopefully will be soon. Only 20 more days to Cody. I do believe I'm getting excited.
  14. Does anyone have a source for H4 headlight plugs? I have a pair of headlights coming that I want to hook up to the stock Hi/Lo beam switch through a pair of relays. If I can get some male and female H4 plugs and sockets the wiring can be kept reversible back to stock.
  15. I thought so too but not so lucky this time. Sure hope it is not the fan that is faulty and blowing the fuse.
  16. Boy did you hit the nail on the head. The fuse blew again so still no fan and it boiled over again but this time with coolant in the system. Tomorrow I will pull the sensor switch see if I can find anything wrong with it. The countdown to Cody is on and time is tight so depending on the result of testing the sensor I will be hooking up a fused manual switch directly from the battery. That was my assessment as well. I'll keep an eye on it now that it is full.
  17. While it is not light bar specific but rather LEDs for the whole bike. Here is the list of parts that were used: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=600022&postcount=2
  18. I know it is a bummer but I expect the light bar will not be getting done before I leave for Cody. Got a new set of headlights coming which I hope to get installed before I leave though. The stock taillight and turn signals will have to be good enough. Besides, I'll be traveling with Sailor and SilvrT so they will be behind me and can act as my running and brake lights. I'll be sure to keep a steady pace so they don't get too far behind.
  19. My faith is now restored in Yamaha. Of course, a light bar is such a very good idea that it should have been originally supplied by Yamaha. Good, one less thing to remove and/or break off.
  20. Eureka, you have got it, the fan fuse was blown. This ATC fuse block is just behind and to the right of the front holder tab for the top cover. It's interesting that there would be a mix of the ATC style and glass tube style fuses. The hose in question is the one from the fan sensor to a block between the front and back cylinders. Perhaps pulsing is the wrong term. The hose kind of bobs up and down. This may just be an indication that the coolant level was low. Remember this bike has not been ridden for over a year and I had not gotten to checking the coolant level. Since it has boiled over, been drained and refilled with only water and the fan does work so I will not have to be removing the radiator... I will fill the system with antifreeze today. Perhaps that bobbing will then go away.
  21. So is there any reason to take the light bar off the trunk? Although I only wanted to replace the turn signal at this time I do like the idea of upgrading to LED's. Hopefully there will be enough time to do it before leaving for Cody. After being very impressed with the thought and engineering that went into creating and building the fairing I am just appalled that Yamaha could supply an essential piece of equipment that was so difficult to maintain.
  22. That does seem to be the best solution. Jumping between the blue and brown connectors gets nothing. Putting a pos from battery to the blue gets small sparks. Fan runs when connecting pos and neg from battery to connector on left side. Can you tell me where the fuse for the fan is located? It is not listed in the fuse panel with the ignition and headlights etc. I have only ridden this bike for a few hours in total, most of which was yesterday. The bike has been run several times while in storage and no overheating or coolant puddles were noticed. The switch body was loose so I turned it until it stopped. After the first time it boiled I drained and flushed the cooling system but only filled with plain water just in case I had to pull the radiator to deal with the fan. Yesterday while riding the temp gauge stayed at 1/3 in the green and only got up to a bit below 1/2 when stopped for lights. I am just going to guess that would indicate the pump is working well enough. Also when the motor is operating pulsing can be seen in the black hose on the right side running from forward to about the middle of the engine so it appears coolant is circulating.
  23. I have had the sensor connector apart and cleaned the connections. I did not think to check to see if they were loose though. Today when I test the fan I will also check that connector and the ground. Thanks
  24. If I find the fan is working with a direct connection to the battery I will try a new cap as you suggest. I know there is a thread with several part numbers for aftermarket radiator caps. Finding a particular thread on this site might be the bigger challenge though. Thanks for the suggestion Twigg.
  25. Not that I can see all the way round the fan but it does not look like there is anything that would be stopping the fan from turning. Today was the first time I have ridden the VR so not a lot of experience with the fan at this point. During my several rides today the temp gauge sat at about 1/3 the way up the gauge. It was not until I had returned home and was messing with the lights while idling that it boiled over again. During the winter while the VR was in storage I ran the engine several times until it got 3/4 of the way up the gauge which was about 20 minutes or so. No boiling over but never looked to see if the fan was working. Perhaps with the warmer weather the fan is now needed to keep the temp down. Tomorrow I will connect the fan directly to the battery to see if it works. I have insurance on the VR now and will be commuting to work on it starting Monday. Sure hope to get the fan working before then in case the traffic gets backed up.
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