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camos

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Everything posted by camos

  1. camos

    Gardiner MT

    From the album: Cody 2011

  2. camos

    Gardiner MT

    From the album: Cody 2011

  3. camos

    Winthrop

    From the album: Cody 2011

  4. camos

    Winthrop

    From the album: Cody 2011

  5. camos

    Winthrop

    From the album: Cody 2011

  6. camos

    North Cascades

    From the album: Cody 2011

  7. camos

    North Cascades

    From the album: Cody 2011

  8. camos

    North Cascades - Nina

    From the album: Cody 2011

  9. Can't be mixed up is good news. What about the two intercom cables you mentioned? If one end is swapped does that mean the intercom will work backwards? Probably not but thought I would ask anyway. Does that mean you have a spare AMP that may work?
  10. The cables I was referring to are the 5 pin DIN cables. There are 4 or 5 of them plugged in to the AMP box contraption which may or may not actually be the AMP but is hooked to it. As you can tell my memory of this part is a bit vague. A while ago I removed the left fairing to get at the wiring behind it which necessitated the removal of the box that is under the two blue connectors. I numbered the DIN cables and am fairly certain they were put back in their original positions. Since the radios did not work at the time, what I am not sure of is whether the cables were in the correct places when I bought the bike. Ohhh! I like that. Giving that recalcitrant piece of equipment a rap on the noggin, so to speak, will be a definite pleasure. Reminds me of the old days when vacuum tubes were the norm and transistors had not been invented yet. A judicious knock or tap would often get things fired up for a while. Thanks for the suggestion Thomas.
  11. While at Cody with my two non working radios, switched out the stereo top panel to another bike and it worked. Put a working top panel in my bike and it did not work. The indication here is there is a problem with the AMP. How does one test the AMP? There are a number of different cables that plug in to this box, are they interchangeable or are all the plugs different so they can't be mixed up?
  12. The trunk on my 90 VR has two folding hinges to keep it from falling open. The saddlebag lids are a different story though. They currently have a couple of bootlaces holding them on and they need to be tucked in every time the lids are put back on. I was also thinking of replacing them with chains so they would fall in on their own when attaching the lids.
  13. This first changing of the plugs has turned into somewhat of a saga. This morning, using the OEM socket and wrench I removed the #3 plug (right front?) with no difficulty. The #4 plug (right rear?) was difficult, I thought impossible, as I could not get the wrench on the socket once it was in place and could not put it on and then insert the socket. Only tried for about 10 min though and gave up. The 18 mm socket I had that did not fit was a six point Crafstman. Thought perhaps Craftsman were not what they used to be. Went to Canadian Tire which had two brands of sockets but none that was thinner than the one I had. Went to NAPA and found a 12 point 18 mm that was .004 thinner thanks to a caliper measurement. Went home, tried it and it worked. Did the #1 plug (left rear?) but could not get it to turn on the #2 (right front?) as the angle was too sharp for the swivel adapter. Tried the OEM socket and wrench and it work fine. While doing that discovered that putting the wrench on the socket first but letting it slide down to the middle allowed the insertion of the socket to the plug. Tried that method with the #4 plug and it worked. Learned something today which is always a good thing. The old plug gaps were all set at about .033 mm. The new plugs came set at .028 mm so I left them at that. All the plugs showed somewhat worn edges on the centre electrodes and were light brown on both the ceramic and the outside electrodes. Looked pretty close to #11 on the chart. I thought that was not too bad but the outside ring was not just black but had really thick soot which probably isn't so good. Took it for a spin and the engine seemed to be noticeably smoother but then that could have been just high expectation and wishful thinking. Starting with a fresh tank of gas so will know better when it hits reserve.
  14. Lordco was my first stop, they did not carry thin walled sockets. It is quite possible one of their better quality sockets would have been thin enough to do the job but I didn't think to try them out. The Sears store here in Victoria has reduced their tool section to 4 or 5 isles, the selection is so small that I have stopped going there. Was going to stop by Canadian Tire but that would have been after stopping at the dealer. Still just waking up here and have not got to trying it out but I think the tool kit wrench will work just as well as a special socket. Thanks for all the suggestions, probably should have asked before I embarked on my journey.
  15. There is no Lowes in this area of B.C. It may not be quite as convenient but I'll be trying the OEM plug wrench tomorrow and I expect it will work OK. Thanks for the suggestion though.
  16. I have been wanting to change the spark plugs on my VR. Discovered my 18 mm deep socket would not fit in the hole. Spent most of the day browsing through the local tool shops looking for a thin walled socket without success. At the end of it all went to the dealer to see what they had with interesting results. Found out the plug socket only came with the original tool kit. Yamaha wanted... wait for the drum roll... $539.00 ... Whoo-Hoo On the other hand, they did have a Honda plug wrench for sale as a stand alone tool. Went out to see if it would fit and while rummaging around for a screwdriver to remove the side grill found that I had the OEM plug wrench already, just didn't know it. The Honda plug wrench did fit. Perhaps unfortunately, in my excitement I forgot to get the price of the Honda tool. It likely was not very expensive as it was zinc plated and not chromed like my POSH Royale tool. Thought I would pass that along just in case anyone else really was stuck without a way to remove their plugs.
  17. Do check the price at your Yamaha dealer before committing to buying it online. Don't forget to check the cost of shipping as well. I have discovered online purchases are not always less expensive.
  18. That's another good point that I too have discovered... several times. Sometimes though online places don't do USPS for some reason. What did you get, I need a new helmet too. Want a cheap flipup with a sun visor.
  19. Just to clarify, it was not amazing because the price of the part was good but that the dealer price was less than at PartShark. You probably got that point but thought it worthwhile making sure. Thanks for the belated offer but I never even thought to ask. However, it actually might have cost the same or more due to shipping cost. Very valid point MarCarl. As you can see I have learned that lesson... more than once actually. Now if only you had a right hand mirror...
  20. Not to pick on PartShark, but shop around and don't assume online parts are cheaper than getting them from the dealer. Had to get a new rubber band holder for the bottom of the sidecover. PartShark lists for $12.38 plus shipping. Dealer price delivered for pickup $10.70. I was pleasantly surprised and thought I would share my amazing find.
  21. I know this is an old thread but now that you have had it apart, do you think the black plastic retainer could have been heated to soften it enough to remove the glass that way? When you said remove the front edge did you mean by paring it down level with the glass? My mirror has a split in the top ball swivel part. If I can get it apart I'm hoping it may be able to be glued back together and re-assembled.
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