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camos

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Everything posted by camos

  1. Didn't notice this in the previous posts so thought it might be of interest. Google Maps Route 66 created by the National Parks Service.
  2. squid = Super Quick Unsafe Inevitably Dead
  3. Can you elaborate? What part of the swing arm needed tightening? Mine wallows in curves at or over 110 kph (75 mph). The fork oil has not been checked yet. Greased the swing arm linkage before the trip to Cody but didn't think to check for movement.
  4. camos

    Am I Crazy?

    First off, there is nothing particularly difficult about using a clutch and shifting gears. It just take a little coordination and practice to get the hang of it. If your intention is to keep your scooter for a daily rider around town and get a bike for touring then the Venture is a good choice. They are comfortable, dependable and can pack a lot of stuff. With only 6 months experience on two wheels you will likely find it very difficult to handle in stop and go traffic. A bike such as the Venture is not a very good choice for riding around town because it is not only heavy, but top heavy which makes it unforgiving when stopping and moving slowly as in parking lot maneuvering. Adding a passenger and a few hundred pounds of gear makes it even more difficult. On the other hand, when moving at 20 mph or more big bike will handle just about as easily as your scooter. The same riding techniques are used on two wheels no matter what bike you are riding. The main difference in handling is in the balance due to centre of gravity and the power to weight ratio of the bikes. The size of the engine is not very relevant as there are quite a number of bikes in the 650 to 800 cc range that have twice the power of the 1300 cc Venture and weigh half as much. You can get yourself into trouble very quickly on the more powerful bikes. The answer to your question has a lot of "it depends" in it. Essentially, in my opinion at least, if you want to do some 2 up touring don't bother getting a smaller bike and working up but keep your scooter and get the big bike. Then practice for a year or however long it takes to get competent before taking the one you love out for a spin.
  5. Hmmm 08:56... I take it you had just gotten to work. Nice!!!
  6. Blatant hijack. Since you have your triple tree apart, how difficult would it be to put a 1 1/2 or 2 inch riser or spacer in between the clamp and the handlebar plate?
  7. The LEO was being practical. I've been to traffic court quite a few times through work and have been surprised by the number of people who get off due to minor procedural errors and occasionally vague proof that causes some doubt. The level of proof would be much higher with a major crime like attempted homicide particularly in this case with no smoking gun and no injury. If the charges mentioned can be made to stick then the guy will have paid a fairly high price for his actions.
  8. One of the front fork airlines has a massive leak in it. Not sure if it is 68 or 69 but in any case they should both be replaced. http://www.partshark.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=15285&category=Motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=1990&fveh=385 Looks like custom ones will have to be made. Has anyone done this? It would be nice if I could get them made up before taking half the bike apart and having to bus it in the interim.
  9. Perhaps not Partshark as they only list parts that are still available. The Yamaha OEM site lists all parts whether or not they can still be purchased.
  10. Attached is a pic of the HID ballast. That was my thought too but wanted confirmation from HID Country. The harness has a fuse, 2 ballast connectors and an H4 plug. As mentioned, my thought too but since this part is intended for an auto system why would it have only one H4? It is my guess that it only needs one to tap into the Hi/Lo system so the plug for the other headlight would be taped off. If that is the case though, this harness is perfect for converting a single MC headlight to dual Hi/Lo headlights.
  11. A few of you have had dealings with HID Country. A while ago, about 6 months, I purchased a motorcycle H4 kit and a dual kit for H3 application. The H3 kit was not even close to the size they said it was and would not fit my fog lights so I sent it back. No problem there but there was a part that indicated it was for H4 which I did not return as I thought it was for the MC H4 kit but turned out it wasn't. I have been trying to find out what this part does. It looks like it could be a relay but has two connectors that apparently would hook up to two ballasts. The problem I am having is getting this part identified. I have been corresponding with Mike without success. He does not seem to know what parts my order included. He has not been very responsive, wait for a reply for a few days or a week then send a query through the site to support and perhaps get a response. Anyway, it getting a bit frustrating. The only other person I have corresponded with is Jason who appears to be their technical person. What I would like to know is if anyone has an email address for Jason? Attached are two pix of the part I am trying to ID. It would be helpful f anyone knows what that part does. In any case, I would like to contact Jason directly if I can find his address.
  12. Russ, it's not an empty field, it's a golf course. How cool is that?
  13. Ever thought of backing downhill into the shed and driving up the hill on the way out? Curiosity eh?
  14. Reading the state will only work people enter it in their profile. This could be about as successful as getting everyone to enter what they are riding. Seems one of the most popular rides is "supporting member".
  15. Is the shifting issue mainly between 1st and 2nd? Occasionally I get a perfect shift, just a click and it is in. Most often I get a rather large clunk. Occasionally I get a lesser clunk and find it in neutral. The rest of the gears mostly shift with just a click. I have been riding my VR for almost 2 months so it's early days and I'm still coming to terms with some of it's features. What I have found with the shifter is having it adjusted lower helps to get better leverage from my foot. Also, rather than shifting with my toe it is better to have the pedal behind the toe, not quite halfway up my foot. My VR has close to 120,000 miles on it so it is most likely some of the difficulty is due to wear but technique also seems to play a part. Another thing that helps shifting is keeping the pedal linkage lubricated.
  16. Teflon tape works well but needing 5 wraps should only be necessary on threads that are hooped. In any case, every time or any time teflon tape is used be sure not to let it hang over the inside end of the threads. Not even a micron. Best bet is to always leave the first 1/4 turn of the thread bare. If teflon gets into a hydraulic system it will clog small orifices and possibly even act as a flapper valve to create inconsistent symptoms. Probably everyone knows this but forewarned is forearmed... whatever that means.
  17. I hesitated to jump in on this because I'm not a "real" mechanic but I'm just not getting it. There are two possible issues being discussed here. While there are possible issues with carbs, they have had a lot of recent attention so the chances of them being the culprit are slim. The arcing however is a definite issue that needs to be attended to whether or not there is a problem with the carbs. When things heat up they expand which could open a weakness in the caps enough to allow the arcing. When the engine is idling, the stator is producing the least amount of power and when the fan comes on it increases the demand all of which could reduce the viability of the jolt from the coils. Without re-reading the whole thread, I don't recall seeing any mention of the plug wires being replaced. The leak that is causing the arcing at the caps does not have to be at the caps since electricity does flow and will take the shortest or the easiest route to ground.
  18. Thanks for your useful responses. Much appreciated. Hopefully the information will also be of use to the original poster.
  19. My rear shock appears to hold air OK so the problem is probably confined to the front one. How much disassembly is required to get to the air lines for the forks?
  20. Mine too, does that mean only the seals are likely to need replacing or is there anywhere else that should be checked for leaks before diving into the forks?
  21. That was my first thought too although more specifically replace it with an MP3 player. If you ever want to listen to a tape stifle it and put the music from the tape on the MP3.
  22. Seems to me that fellow gave you a very reasonable deal. Dropping everything and coming to pick you up for $60 is in my opinion a good price. I've never been in your situation but around here if you want something delivered within 10 miles it will cost $60-$80. The Yamaha dealer in Cody wanted $195 + $30 for mounting for a front E3 if the wheel was removed from the bike.
  23. Easy test, hook it up to the VMax.
  24. To answer your original question, I have never seen an add-on sunshield for a helmet. I have seen several versions of tinted film that is attached inside the face shield. I put one on my Arai Quantum II full face helmet. The strip went across the top 1/4 of the shield and worked quite well. If it was dark or I needed to see better the shield had to be opened halfway. This was not a problem for me since the only time I use the shield down is when it is raining and even then only close it part way. Found this accessory in the local MC shop but it was made in England. Prior to getting it I was considering doing exactly the same with the tinted film that is used on car windows. Now I have a modular with the built in sunshade. My first modular wore out and was replaced while in Cody with the HJC IS Max. This is a medium priced helmet that works very well although the sunshade is not quite dark enough. My first modular made by Hawk was half the price and had a darker sunshade but no one carried parts for it so its time was up and it had to go.
  25. camos

    jump

    New York?
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