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camos

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Everything posted by camos

  1. camos
    Certainly is a guy's (bloke's to you) vision of Heaven but I rather doubt the North American "Sheilas" would agree with this premise since they have spent a century or more beating this concept out of us guys/blokes.
  2. camos
    Well, it is much easier to flip a switch by the throttle than reach down somewhere out of sight to turn a valve. Dropping a cylinder on the Virago is not such a big problem in the same way dropping two cylinders on the Venture is not really debilitating. Also, this was designed by Japanese engineers so the more complex the better and probably not with the litigious Excited States of America in mind. You are most welcome.
  3. camos
    Not sure if I have an answer to your questions and don't know anything about the bikes mentioned but my Virago has a setup somewhat similar to what was mentioned. There is no reserve switch but there is a reserve area in the tank. When the main tank runs out of fuel there is a circuit that cuts the ignition to one of the cylinders and turns on a red warning light in the instrument display. The ignition cutout can be turned off with a switch which allows the engine to run normally once again leaving only the warning light lit. This gives the rider a heads up to get fuel that cannot be ignored. Of course, leaving the switch in the reserve position disables the ignition cutout warning and if the warning light is burned out then when the engine sputters you will be riding shank's mare to the gas station. Not very high tech and easily circumvented on purpose or by accident but effective if used as it was meant to be.
  4. camos
    I had the same question when I found my 90 VR did not come with a reserve faceplate and switch. The shaft needs to be turned fully CCW to put the switch in the reserve position. See this link courtesy of frankd for a pic of the switch without the knob in the reserve position. See this link courtesy of painterman67 for a pic of the switch with the knob and faceplate as it would look if you had one. Aren't these guys just the greatest bunch you could have ever run into?
  5. camos
    As stated earlier I put my R/R in the left faring where the cassette used to be. I'm thinking seriously about moving it, probably to the space behind the rear cylinders as Tim mentioned although I also liked the under trunk position. I'd have to look it up to be sure but as I recall, without cooling the R/R will supply 27 amps and with cooling it is more but can't remember how much. To move it I'll need to get 2 more spade connectors that will fit the R/R plug. Anyone know where those connectors can found?
  6. camos
    Me too, old fashioned that is. Never had a problem getting the air out but haven't had that much experience at it either. Bled the brakes on two different cars and 3 different bikes without a problem. Mentioned this once before on this forum and got no response so figured I managed to offend someone. Perhaps I'm just lucky but anyway, thought I would mention it again cuz it seems to work and the topic has come up. Attach a clear hose to the bleeder that goes up 3" to 6" before turning down into a bottle with some brake fluid covering the end of the hose. Crack the bleeder then pump the master cylinder. Fluid will rise in the tube to the top of the curve before running down into the bottle. Any air bubbles can easily be seen as can the colour of the fluid if all that is being done is to replace the old fluid. As long as a little time is allowed for any air bubbles to make their way to the top of the curve, there is no problem with sucking anything significant back into the bleeder while pumping so I have found it is not necessary to tighten the bleeder between pumps. Just make sure the hose is properly sized so it grips the bleeder valve securely. Once all you get is clear fluid with no bubbles, tighten the bleeder and move on to the next segment or bleeder valve farther away from the MC. For what it is worth, that has been my experience.
  7. camos
    Haven't got the fairing back together yet but the new stator and regulator are in place and and seem to be working well. Looks like I will be off Kruzin the Kootenays tomorrow. Wanted to extend a very big thank you for all the help I received doing this project. Get the picture? It's the best I can come up with.
  8. camos
    @ Timgray That is exactly where I was thinking. Looks like a fairly easy place to attach a plate on the left side at least although the rear master is in the way on the right side. Might , probably will, move it there when I have more time. @ frankd As I mentioned, last night, mounted it in the left fairing. It is flat enough, almost perfect in fact. Burned a couple of holes with a soldering iron and used some large self tapping screws. Haven't tried to put the cassette back in yet though but expect it will not fit. Have to come up with a temporary cover. @ skydoc Under the trunk looked like a good place too but thought it would take too much time. Supposed to be leaving for Kruzin the Kootenays tomorrow. Not sure I'm going to make my schedule but had an extra day planned for the trip so should still be able to get there on time. You know if you guys would spend more time on forum and less time sleeping all this good information would have gotten to me before I had to make up my mind on my own. Thanks for all the input.
  9. camos
    Good thought Brian, but the lower fairings were removed quite a while ago because they restricted my knees. Not sure if I'll put them back on although the bike does look better with them. Might only be a temporary solution but decided to mount the R/R on the inside forward part of the left fairing pocket and if it is in the way of the cassette then bye bye old technology. Sure would like to get some opinions regarding mounting it in the space behind the engine above the shock. This would be just a bit above where the aft end of the frame brace bolts to the frame. It's an easy fit if that area does not get too hot.
  10. camos
    I've been looking for a place to install the Shindegen R/R. Still can't seem to make the decision to get rid of the OEM sound system even though it does not work. I like the idea of having a radio and CB. Looks like there might be room in the forward part of the left audio compartment, particularly if the cassette is removed. Don't mind losing that although I don't know if it needs to be attached for the rest of the audio to work. That would be for another thread anyway. Found what looked like the perfect spot just above the rear shock, lots of room, open to the air but kinda close to the rear cylinder exhaust outlets so it might be too hot there. Any thoughts? Another option is to put it in the left cowling air intake. I think someone did that but can't find the thread. Also can't seem to get the grill off. Looks like just one screw holding it but there is a prong on the other side, the inside, that prevents it from coming out. Now I can't get it back in. Everything related to Ventures seems to be so complicated except for riding on the highway. I think I'm feeling frustrated.
  11. camos
    This is a classic example of a faulty neutral switch. There may also be issues with the clutch switch and side stand switch. If it will start in gear with the side stand up and the clutch pulled in then likely it is only the neutral switch has a problem. Unless the neutral switch is actually borken you will need the contact pin and spring, an o-ring that goes around the switch and a middle gear gasket. Not very expensive, probably about $10.
  12. camos
    No, no, no...bolted to a driveway is not good. I vote for the truck hitch so Rocket can come over and mount my tires.
  13. camos
    So could not get the screw to come out of the cover. Good thing Rocket brought his spare cover over. We got it back together but when I fired up the engine it is still only charging at 12v. One leg of the windings were black in the old one so it definitely had a problem but at this point don't know if it was THE problem. Found the pickup had a crack in the backside, cleaned it good and put some RTV over the crack. Is that a possible cause for a lack of charging? Got a spare Shindengen regulator but will have to check the stator to see if it looks like it is OK electrically speaking. Just checked and there is 58v AC between the legs so that looks good to me anyway. Nelson is starting to look like a long shot.
  14. camos
    No she didn't, I thought of it all by myself. However, she will give you a lot of points for helping us to get to Nelson. There you go, proving I am right.
  15. camos
    Just thought I would mention something that could be important. Those three machine screws that hold the stator in place are probably made out of recycled garbage so be really paranoid when tightening them. I just broke one turning it by hand with a screwdriver. Thought I was too old to be doing that anymore. Have I mentioned lately that I hate being a mechanic? Probably not but... "I hate being a mechanic!" There I said it and I'm not sorry. Tonight I'm going to drink Tequila, lots of Tequila. Rocket is going to come over tomorrow and save me. Isn't he a sweetheart?
  16. camos
    It's not about the spirt of air necessary to get a reading, but rather about losing perhaps a pound or two almost every time the gauge is put on the valve stem. What I would like is a zero loss tire gauge only. I have a 12v Slime top up pump that has a short hose that screws onto the valve stem which work great and loses a minimal amount of air when attaching or disengaging the hose. The "normal" tire gauges have to be almost exactly aligned to get a pressure reading without losing air between the stem and the gauge. There always seems to be something in the way of the gauge that makes it difficult to attach it perfectly. Never having seen a zero loss tire gauge I am thinking either a digital or analogue gauge with a hose similar to the Slime pump would be awesome. Someone must have thought the same thing too and decided to make one but apparently not very many though since I can't find one. I'm sure I have seen a zero loss gauge mentioned in this forum somewhere so thought I would ask here since the thread is all about getting a tire pressure reading.
  17. camos
    I have been looking for a loss-less type of air gauge but so far have not been successful. Anyone know where to get one?
  18. camos
    I've been looking around for a while and finally chose the Sena SMH10. Haven't tried them yet since they have yet to arrive but will hopefully be picking them up in 4 or 5 days. From the reviews I have read on WebBikeWorld they appear to have the best sounding speakers and are the easiest headsets to use. Cardo Scala has come out with a new version, the G9, which is reported to have better speakers than the G4 version but I have not found any reviews on them yet.
  19. camos
    Was just about to go out and do it so I'm glad I checked in here before doing the cleaning with brake fluid. Guess I will have to stop off at the auto supply again tomorrow and get some brake cleaner. Good thing I have 4 more days before I have to leave, the way things are going it just might take that long. Found when I went out to work on it that I was wrong about the gasket sticking to the engine side as it was completely on the cover side. Was thinking while spraying the gasket cleaner on the cover that it would have been real messy if it had been on the engine side. The gasket cleaner removes paint so it is very important that any paint is properly protected before spraying. Another up side to the fortunate circumstance of having the gasket on the cover is that the gasket cleaner also removes clear coat. Sprayed the cover inside and out and got rid of the remnants of clear coat so it looks a whole lot better than it did before. This is a good point since while scraping the old gasket off bits and pieces were falling everywhere. Some of them must have fallen into the bolt holes.
  20. camos
    Picked up some Permatex Gasket remover and a plastic scraper after work today. Hopefully that will remove the old gasket which is attached to the engine side. The under surface of the gasket might be stuck on with gasket sealer but the top surface definitely never had anything on it. Whatever is holding it, it sure did not want to come off. Think I'll try the hand torque method too, after making sure everything is clean, Clean, CLEAN. Which is better, brake fluid or solvent? My new stator did not come with a new wire grommet so the old one will also get cleaned with brake fluid or solvent. Got some Permatex Ultra Black RTV (PX #82180) which is a high-temp maximum oil resistance silicon gasket maker that Earl sent with the stator. Can no one remember which way the special washer faces? I'll have a look at it and see if I can figure it out tonight when I'm cleaning the gasket and other things but as always it would be helpful to find out for sure from someone who has done it. If anyone else has other useful info that has not been mentioned yet, please chime in. When I'm done I will compile what I have and submit it to Freebird as an amendment to the one document I found in the Tech Library on stator replacement. Seems it is harder to put together than to take apart.
  21. camos
    I read the VR tech article but it seems to have a lot missing, particularly when reinstalling. If my memory serves me correctly, although probably incompletely, there are quite a few hints or tips scattered around the thousands of threads on this forum thatt I don't recall the details and can't seem to find. There is something about: - using Locktite but was it the red stuff or the blue stuff? - what about torque on the 3 inside bolts and the 2 outside ones? - using a spray gasket remover instead of a scraper? - properly aligning the shift shaft or it won't work after getting it all together - the washer that fell out when I pulled the stator cover off? It has a lip on the inside edge and a couple of bends that would work like a compression spring. Which way should it go in? - before sealing, is it better to just pull the new wires through the case grommet in place or remove the grommet from the case first? There may be more but that is all I can think of now. Only 5 days before I want to leave for Nelson Kruzen the Kootenays. No pressure.
  22. camos
    They also seem to be popular with some people who don't want to buy their own. I had one that came with my XV1100. Worked great, was actually called a Throttle Rocker but looked the same as the pic. For a few years I rarely used it except when on a trip. Decided there is no point having it if I don't use it and 4 days later I no longer had to worry about it because I didn't have one anymore. Seems we are in the same boat... so to speak.
  23. camos
    Mine was already disassembled before I ordered the parts so I knew I didn't need the screw but did get the pin a, spring and o-ring. Checked the prices on PartShark and there was only a few cents difference between them and my local dealer. Worked out to be much cheaper from the dealer because there was no cross border shipping. Don't forget to also get the gasket for the middle gear cover. Also, have some RTV on hand to cover the wires coming out of the switch as per Gary's writeup. May not be necessary but can't hurt.
  24. camos
    When I fixed mine I only needed to get the brass contact pin. The local dealer had it. Can't remember what it cost but I'm thinking it was under $9.
  25. camos
    Hi Earl, I already have a Shindegen RR from the Group Buy but if you are interested in offering the rest of the package without the RR let me know.
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