camos

Well, my manual says the firing order is 1-3-4-2. As far as I can tell it is the official Yamaha paperback manual. In any case, I am in the process of doing it as SemiRetired mentioned, which also coincides with the procedure as outlined by Goose. Nice to have confirmation. Thanks to all for the replies. Edit: Just in case there is any doubt I added a pic of the offending information from the manual.

Not a rally but in case you missed it, there is a Meet-n-Eat on April 27th at the Ram Restaurant, in Lacey, WA.

My valve adjustment project is turning into somewhat of a saga. I was using the procedure in the Tech Library article written by Goose for the gen 2 which indicated the firing order was 1-3-2-4. My gen 1 manual states the firing order is 1-3-4-2. I did not notice the discrepancy for a while though. Thought these engines were the same. Oh well, there are no plans for me to give up my current job to become a mechanic so it probably doesn't matter all that much.

I've happily been using the Firefox browser for 10 years but the last two or three versions have required that I double click the Back button to get it to work. Very annoying. For the past two weeks I've been using Chrome and have not experienced that issue. Comcast is an ISP and probably do not have their own browser but probably bundle Internet Explorer with their stuff. Could also be a different browser that is bundled. Help | About in the menu might indicate which browser you have.

Thanks that lightens the load a bit. But not as much as carving a few corners this afternoon did.

@ FreezyRider I have the SMH10 headsets and agree they are indeed awesome. Was planning on getting an SM10 this Spring. My CB doesn't work and I probably won't bother with the headache of trying to fix it although I wish it did work. I knew the Yamaha and Honda 5 pin audio connector could be hooked into the SM10 and just assumed it would work with the CB as well. Thanks for the clarification.

Is this what you were thinking of Kevin? http://www.senabluetooth.com/products/sm10.php?tab_menu=overview They are US$135 in Canada at CruiserCustomizing.com but US$110 at amazon.com not .ca. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Sena-SM10-01-Stream-Bluetooth-Transmitter/dp/B0087NB53S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1364845451&sr=8-1&keywords=sena+sm10]Sena SM10-01 SM10 Dual Stream Bluetooth Stereo Transmitter : Amazon.com : Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/411V7GQsgcL.@@AMEPARAM@@411V7GQsgcL[/ame] You are attending the Washington Meet and Eat at the end of the month so perhaps you can arrange something with your host.

I'm in the middle of trying to do this job. Been following Goose's thread for the 2nd Gen where he states the clearance is best taken on the compression stroke so I'm wondering how to tell when that is? Did the #1 cyl from the T1 mark as per the manual and Goose's instructions then turned the flywheel 180 degrees for #3 cyl, then 180 degrees plus almost a 1/4 turn to the T2 mark which should be TDC for #2 cyl. However that put the lobes pointing down which means the feeler can't be slipped in. Seemed that I must be doing something wrong so I started over and now am getting different readings than the first time. That is probably conclusive that I'm not doing something right. Anyone got any suggestions? It's a beautiful sunny day here and it would be much nicer riding my Virago than poking around in the shop.

Looks like it is just starting to turn 11.1.

Hah! That's one of my favourite peeves.

You might find this page inspirational: Tim's Chopper Blog

Oops, forgot to include the link. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44037

Thanks, I'm going to look for one on sale.

Since I just did this, here are a couple of most useful posts I found made by dingy on how to make attachments work for you. Thanks Gary...

I found a pic of the shift linkage and inserted that in the procedure. I'm not an expert mechanic and other then having done this job twice make no claim to fame. If anyone has an opinion on anything that I missed or perhaps could have done differently please chime in here. It isn't necessary to repeat the advice already given regarding the use of an impact driver or doing this job on the center stand or even on a lift. This procedure may as well be as complete as possible so I will be including those tidbits in the procedure text.

I think that is a very good idea. Does the DeWalt driver have adjustable torque settings?

The first time I did this job the new stator did not come with the plug so I too used quite a lot of RTV around the plug and wires when re-using the old one. The second time I did it the new stator came with a plug and the wires were very tight where they went through the plug so I left them alone. The wires were also very stiff which caused the plug to come out several times before I got them oriented so the plug would not pop out. The first time I put the plug in I used quite a lot of RTV but found after it popped out a couple of times that there was not much RTV actually in the slot. So it seems a little is all that is necessary since the rest of it gets squeezed out.

Now you tell me.

The first time I replaced the stator I managed to snap off one of the 3 Phillips screws holding the stator. It broke with hardly any pressure, like a piece of string cheese being twisted. Rocket came to my rescue with a spare case cover. He took my case in to his shop and had the offending remains of the screw removed. Paul is one of the great assets of this club. I'm not sure I made ALL the possible mistakes but certainly made a dent in the list of likely ones. You will likely be far better off to ask Paul to help you with it since there is a good chance I only made half the mistakes that are possible. If the bike was standing there would probably be much less chance of anything falling into the engine.

There is a splined shaft in one of the gears and a pin shaft in the other gear, the one closest to the flywheel. The pin shaft is smooth and fits into the cover. When I pulled the cover the pin stayed in the cover which allowed the gear to drop out of position. I noticed the gear was slightly out of position but thought the pin in the case would align the gear when it was reassembled. It didn't realign and I could not get the case to go all the way on. When I removed the case to see what was causing the problem the pin shaft came out and fell down to the hole just below it. There is a "flange" or what I refer to as a chute at the hole which caught the pin and directed it into the engine. This is why I recommend the pin shaft be in the gear prior to reassembling the case. The gear it fits into is just sitting there with nothing holding it other than the pin shaft. To align the gear with the hole it is necessary to turn the gear one tooth at a time to get it in the correct position. Since the bike was laying on its side, this would likely prevent the gears from falling out. The pic I took was originally intended to display the holes things could fall through into the engine. It would have been better to have included more of the gears. They are visible in the top left of the pic. The hole the pin fell through is right below the gear and the chute can be seen well enough.

That's a very nice looking wheel which, unfortunately, would be pretty much wasted being hidden behind those huge front rotors.

I just uploaded the Stator Replacement Procedure here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=745524#post745524

First Gen MkII Stator Replacement Before you begin make sure you have all the materials and tools you will need: the new stator, gaskets for the flywheel/stator cover and the middle gear cover, large Phillips screw driver (#3), 10mm socket, 12mm socket, 5mm allen wrench, flathead screwdriver, gasket remover, scraper, brake cleaner, thread locker (Blue Locktite) oil resistant RTV (Permatex PX #82180) Possibly an extension magnet will be needed if any of the case pins fall into the engine. A new copper crush washer might be needed. You will find it on the bottom bolt of the middle gear cover. The old one should work OK but if it does leak afterwards it can be replaced any time so it's not that important to have at the beginning unless you plan on losing it. Removing the covers: First remove the chin fairing, left side lower fairing, the engine crash guard, the shift lever from the shaft that comes through the stator cover and remove the "C" clip and washer from that shaft. Remove one bolt from the the foot peg/shifter assembly so it can be pushed out of the way. Next remove the six 5mm cap screws from the middle gear cover (the small cover at your left foot while riding) taking note that the cap screw at the bottom has a copper washer that is used as an oil seal, carefully remove the cover. Have a small container ready to catch the oil behind the cover. Perhaps a 1/4 cup, just enough to make a mess. Make note of the orientation of the inside shift linkage because unless the lever is in the proper position (lever should be up) the stator case cover will not fit back on properly. You can now see two wire leads coming out of the lower rear part of the stator cover, follow these under the middle gear until you get to a connector on each of the cables. Unplug the two connectors (the smaller two wire one is the pickup and the large one is a three wire for the stator) then remove both cables from the retaining clips. Remove the two Phillips head screws from the flywheel cover and remove the round plate and note the orientation of the spring washer so you can replace it the right way.(flat side out). Remove the eleven 5mm cap screws from the flywheel cover and remove it from the engine. As you pull the cover away from the engine it will start to come but then give some resistance. This is due to the magnet in the flywheel pulling on the steel in the stator. A steady straight pull will remove it by gentle prying with a flathead screwdriver. Be careful when prying as you don't want to mark the case edges. A tap or two with a mallet will help to break the seal. Inside of the cover there are two guide pins in the case perimeter that are used for positioning. There are also two shafts and three gears used by the starter, if they fall out or come with the case put them back into position in the engine. A note of caution here, when removing the cover one of the gear pins may stay with the case and the gears may fall out. The gear on the splined shaft will only go in one way, rotate to fit. Be advised the pin that goes into the gear can fall into the engine. Remove the three Phillips head screws in the center of the stator coil. Make note of the position of the retaining cover for the wires from the stator before removing the 2 screws holding them. These screws may have Loctite on them and be tough to break loose, so use a screw driver that fits tightly in the screws and proceed using gentle steady force. Remove the wire cover and the old stator. Prepping and Reassembling the New Stator: Clean all the old gasket from the cover mating surfaces. If you are lucky the old gasket will all be on the cover. Likely the old gasket will be baked on so now is the time to use the gasket remover. This stuff will also remove paint. The luck involved in having the gasket remain only on the case makes it much easier to spray the remover without getting it all over the bike. Scraping may be necessary to get all the old gasket off. Use multiple applications of gasket remover, scraping between coats. It's important to remove it all but be careful of scratching the mating surfaces. The stator wires go through a rubber plug. Some stators come with a new plug and some require reusing the old plug. To prevent future oil leaks at this point use brake cleaner to clean the plug, wires and the area in the case where the plug fits. Pay attention to cleaning out the groove in the slot. A small amount of RTV on the plug and the wires will aid in preventing oil leakage. Use a tap and a die to clean the threads on the 3 stator screws and the 2 wire cover screws. This will get rid of any remaining locking compound. This step is highly recommended and will prevent the possibility of breaking any screws while tightening. Guess how I found that out. When installing the new stator pay attention to the position of the wires coming off the stator, they must go between the two pins that position the clip holder. The first time I did this job the wires fit in place perfectly but the second time when using a different brand of stator it was necessary to loosen the clamp holding the wires on the stator to adjust the position to fit between the pins. Re-install the wire cover. Adjust the shift shaft to the up position. The flywheel/stator case can now be installed. Run the wires up to the connectors and put them into the clamp near the stator cover. After replacing the flat spring washer, the round flywheel cover and 2 screws can be installed. Clean the mating surfaces then replace the middle gear gasket and install the cover. Don't forget the copper washer on the bottom bolt. Place the washer on the shift shaft and pull the shaft outwards until the slot for the "C" clip becomes visible then press into place. Re-install the foot peg, engine guard and chin fairing and you are done.

If the pin could have fallen into that area then it would appear that I may have used up several years of my good luck quota. Perhaps I should stay in bed for at least the near future and dream of sugar plums.

I did wonder how lucky I was to have found the pin so easily. I could not see in there but could feel some bumps and stuff so knew it was not just an empty pan. Are there gears in there? It is not much of a stretch for the falling pin to find the hole. The pin normally would be in the right hand gear at the top left of the pic. The hole is directly under the gears and has a metal chute that would catch anything that fell and direct it into the hole. Another great Yamaha design feature.