camos

Here is an easy recipe that does not require a bread machine or any real work.

I love horror stories. The Loafless Bread Goblin, The Witches of Yeastwick. It is easy to make a less than perfect loaf of bread but fairly difficult to make an inedible one. I got a bread maker because most of the bread being marketed is of the junk variety. Most of the healthier brands are expensive and either not very tasty or not much better for you than the junk bread. I know of no reason bread cannot be tasty, nutritious and part of a healthy balanced diet. However, it appears the only way to get that is to make it yourself. Baking is simply applied chemistry, the ingredients must be balanced and properly measured. Baking bread is one of the simpler aspects of baking and is way easier than rebuilding a set of carbs. It isn't necessary to have a bread maker but it is convenient. There always seems to be a few inexpensive second hand bread makers available in Thrift stores.

By 2015 I might have to be retired in which case I might be able to get my VR on the road. I would be in for this trip http://goo.gl/maps/LrBkX. One can dream at least. When I look at the extreme weather conditions almost everywhere in NA it is a bit difficult to plan to leave my corner of Heaven.

That's an "interesting" way to look at it. It takes me about a week to go through a loaf of bread so the day before the old loaf is finished off I make the new one. It takes 20 minutes to prep and 3 hours and 48 minutes to bake. That's plenty of time to go and do something. While it does create a little scheduling pressure, it's not so much to make it very restrictive. If it wasn't for the really useless keep warm feature that can't be turned off one could just set it and forget it. During the week I put it on when I get home from work and it's done just before I go to bed. On the weekend, put it on then go and work in the yard or whatever project that is on the agenda and it's ready when I'm ready for lunch. I never get to go anywhere so keeping tabs on the bread doesn't seem to be much of a problem. When it's time for a slow cooker meal, I start it before I go to work and it's done when I get home. So convenient. In this case the keep warm feature is a good one. Just gotta love automated appliances.

And then there is this: http://video.ca.msn.com/watch/video/aggressive-motorcyclist-ends-up-in-truck-sandwich/2gv8pcutz?from=en-ca-infopane And this is just as deserving: http://video.ca.msn.com/watch/video/motorcycle-show-off-pays-the-price/1gl2099fh?from=en-ca-quad

I bought the cheaper version of the Slime pump for $10 from the Walmart in Cody. Looks like the pic of the Sport Pump version. It worked very well for about 30 top-ups then quit pumping. It was still under warranty but the procedure was to return to the place of purchase. That was not going to happen anytime soon so I wrote to Slime and mentioned the situation and wondered if I could return it to my local Walmart. Unasked, Slime sent me a new pump postage paid by return mail. Can't beat that. Opened up the old pump and found the pin between the gear and the crank had come out. Put it back in and it worked again for about 4 months before falling out again. Put it back in with some locktite and it worked for another year. This time the switch went so I turfed it. Still have the second pump which has not failed yet. Probably got better than $10 worth of service out of the pump. Too bad they don't make them with a little better quality as they appear to be a perfect blend of size and performance to carry on an MC.

It's been about a month and I was wondering if anyone was brave enough to try my bread recipe. As an enticement, here is a very useful resource to help the adventurous create their own bread recipes. And of course, the required pix of the delicious results.

I had a similar situation, worked well when cold but lost the neutral indicator when warm. Eventually started losing other gear indicators. My Yamaha dealer had replacements for the main contact, the spring and an o-ring. Can't remember how much it cost perhaps $7-$10. Anyway, not much.

The windshield on my 90 VR is about level with my nose so I can see the road over the windshield to about 20' in front of the bike. I ride rain or shine and have found looking over the shield is very important in low light conditions. Sometimes the glare of oncoming traffic through the windshield is just impossible. Stretching up a bit higher helps quite a bit. Except in heavy rain I never need to lower the face shield more than half way, use it kind of like the peak on a ball cap to fend off water from above. When the rain is heavy the updraft from the windshield is not enough to deflect the rain above my head so that is when I lower the face shield part way. Works the same way on my Virago although it is a bit better than the VR probably because the windshield is quite a bit closer to me so the updraft does not have as much room to come back down before going over my head.

HJC helmets are known to fit round heads better than oval heads. I bought a medium sized HJC IS-Max after trying it on the the store. It felt good but after a while there was the same pain in the forehead that you describe. My solution was to take out the liner and remove a very small amount of foam from the helmet foam, about 1/16", in the affected area using a sharp knife to cut parallel lines and then shave or scrape to remove the foam. Had to do it twice to get it right but it worked perfectly. The hardest part was to be certain of where the cuts had to be made. I wear my helmet 9 hours per day 5 days per week at work and probably a "normal" amount on weekends for trips to the store etc. Don't get to go anywhere fun lately but a ride is a ride even if it is just to work or to get groceries. After 2 years the face shield gear mechanism was getting weak and the liner was getting worn out. Just bought some replacements and it fits and works like it was new. I expect other brands have parts available as well but it's certainly worth checking before deciding on a brand or model of helmet.

Have a look here.

I was having difficulty following the TDC rotation as stated in the manual and in the Tech article written by V7Goose so I asked him about it. This was his reply: The latter method worked better for me. Hopefully this will help with your issue.

Passed a couple riding a black RSV on Douglas St. in Victoria around 4pm today. Looked like they might have been from out of town. Got separated by traffic so did not get a chance to say Hi.

Are you considering an upgrade to a MkII? Good choice.

There is a clip pin that goes through the handlebar holder stud under the tripletree.

It seems like a very good price when compared to the $70 one someone else put on their bike. If that light bar is something you are interested in putting on your bike the turn signals don't need to be wired in. For example the turn signal lights could be wired in to the tail light as running lights with the rest in between wired to the brake light. There are several wiring configuration options that might suit your needs.

When my mother was in her early 60's she went to her Dr. (a new one as her long time Dr. had retired.) complaining of putting on an abnormal amount of weight. My mother was never prone to being overweight so that was an unusual occurrence for her. The Dr. said "Well you know you are getting to a certain age." and passed it off. After about a year she had continued to get bigger and had gotten to the point where her face started to look like a basketball. I can only assume the rest of her was similarly bloated. To make a long story short, she went to a specialist in the big city who diagnosed her with congestive heart failure, one of the symptoms is serious fluid retention. Before she could have an operation to have the defective valve replaced she had to get rid of all the excess fluid or she would have popped like a balloon when they cut her open. Diet and drugs were the solution then. She got a new valve and lived a normal life to 85. It's great that you finally found the source of your problem and hope that you too can have a long normal future. Good luck with it Tricia.

I have posted about using MEK on here before and my results are essentially the same as the guy in the addendum to this post http://vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/plastic.htm . For a mixing container I use a Mason jelly jar because it is air tight. Put in some MEK and ABS pipe scrap or other source and let sit overnight. For a working container, margarine tubs work great. The MEK will not dissolve them and after it sets up the remainder can be pealed off and put back in the Mason jar. After a month or so the ABS in the jar gets a bit thick so add a bit more MEK to it and it will become usable once again. The thickened MEK ABS putty can be worked using your fingers and pushed into place. MEK can be absorbed through the skin but it is not a really terrible substance although it is not good for you either so I would not be wanting to do a lot of hand work. As an applicator I mostly use an old blade screwdriver but have on occasion cut strips from a marg tub to spread with. Anything left over on the screwdriver can be cut off and put back in the jar. Almost forgot, to apply straight MEK to a hairline crack a hypodermic syringe bottle can be used. I got one from a plastic shop for a few bucks. Works great.

Bikes are indeed different from cars but the differences are irrelevant. I would go you one better. In my NSHO, anyone who wants the privilege of driving anything should get tested every 10 years. Licences are good for 5 years around here so that would be every other licence renewal. There are lots of old folks who are good drivers and there are lots of young folks who are good drivers but there are way more really lousy drivers of all ages. Everyone would likely benefit from a required refresher course.

Or for even less from RicksMotorsportElectrics.

I disconnected the AD on my Venture because when I was sitting at a light with the brakes on the voltage dropped into the basement. That situation was due mostly to my stator being on it's way out at the time. Didn't notice any excessive dive issues afterwards and the voltage did not drop as much when sitting with the brakes applied. Now that the stator is fixed the AD could probably be reattached but can't see much point to having them.

If you are referring to re-soldering the connector pins in the Class controller then the answer is no those connectors only affect the Class. I was in a similar situation to you. My Class only worked if I jammed the controller connector with a piece of cardboard and I was never very successful at soldering. Anyway, I tried it and didn't get it fixed. Turned out my soldering iron wasn't getting hot quick enough probably because it was a cheap one. After a while I got a better soldering iron and the job got done real easy. As is probably mentioned in the Tech article, the solder needs to be re-flowed on the connector pins. That needs to happen fairly quickly or the heat will transfer too far and start to melt the solder farther away from the pin which can lead to cross connecting the traces with dribbles or runs of solder.

Can't talk about a fuel injection bike but my 95 Mustang is fuel injected and it has been sitting in my back yard or in my carport for about 6 years without being driven depending on where it is out of the way. I put some Seafoam in the tank and disconnected the battery. It starts and runs just fine anytime I have to move it. Expect you are not planning to leave a bike alone for that long so would probably be just fine.

Never heard of that product before. Looks great but it is indeed pricey. Like the 90 degree valve stem extension as well. Might have to wait awhile but that is going on my Christmas list. Thanks for the heads up.

This is the one I bought 2 years ago at Walmart in Cody for $9.00. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Slime-40020-Tire-Top-Inflator/dp/B002ZC1EOM/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1373170560&sr=8-14&keywords=slime+compressor]Slime 40020 Tire Top Off Inflator : Amazon.com : Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51IyHA0wvjL.@@AMEPARAM@@51IyHA0wvjL[/ame] Today they cost $12.27 on Amazon.com and $41.73 on Amazon.ca. This pump works well but it does not last very long, probably due to a design flaw that allows the gear arm to slip off. I used mine about 5 times before it stopped working. They have a warranty which requires it be returned to where it was purchased. That of course was not going to happen so I emailed Slime about the situation and they mailed me a replacement with no questions asked. Can't beat that for customer service. After receiving the replacement I decided to open it up to see what was up. That's when I discovered the arm had come off the eccentric gear. Put it back on and used the pump 7 or 8 times before it fell off again. Fixed it again but used some blue Locktite that time and it lasted about a year before it stopped working for unknown reasons but suspect the switch went. Definitely worth the $9 I paid but would not be so satisfied if I had paid over $40. Never had to plug a tire but carry the Slime plug kit and the compressor just in case. The compressor is used to top up the tires when necessary. I really like the hose that threads onto the valve stem which dramatically reduces the amount of air that is lost when detaching it. Sure wish I could find a pressure gauge with that feature since I never seem to be able to get my pencil gauge lined up properly the first time.