camos

The rust removal method I have been using for a while is to rub the area with aluminum foil. A good use for foil left over from cooking a turkey or whatever else. It's easy enough to get into tight areas as well. Perhaps of greatest importance is there is no fear anyone will eat it before it can be used to get the rust off. There may of course be a small chance someone on here might chew off the delicious crackling skin left over from the bird. Safe enough though since turkey fat is not the part that one would want to rub on the chrome.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I'm sure there should be about 100v AC between phases at 4000 RPM. It was a while ago that I put in a Rick's Hotshot into my 90 VR and recall it was around 100v AC. Not very certain but at a dead idle it was about 25v AC. The regulator being used was a mosfet type. When riding my 89 VR which probably has a stock stator and R/R the output is 11.8v - 12,1v at a dead idle with the usual draw on the system including electric anti-dives and a pair of LED driving lights. When above 2500 RPM the output reads about 13.8v - 14.0v on a cheap digital VM that has never had the calibration tested so can't say how accurate it is.

It looks very hot-rodish with the black tips fully exposed. Not withstanding the practical reasons you gave for moving them out and even though you accidentally made the best looking choice.... Well done!!!

Yes, it's PVC and might be 1 1/4" or 1 1/2". When I changed pumps I remember the discharge size had to be changed. The good thing is I did not glue the joints together so there will be no difficulty in making any alterations. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll throw that into the mix as well.

I did miss it, thanks for the heads up or it may have remained lost. The circuit looks like it is exactly what I was envisioning. So, right now, I'm trying to put it into a real world context but not seeing it. For some reason I can remember exactly how the previous pump setup worked but am totally uncertain just how the current pump is configured except that it is different from the first one. Rather than speculating, on Sunday I'll pull the pump and check out what there is to work with. Once that is done, perhaps it will come to me how to hook in an extra float and relay. It hasn't rained for 2 days so it might be dry enough to go down the hole and open up the strum box drain holes a bit. Thanks for the circuit and the following heads up.

Not that any of this matters: GW's assumption was a broad one which is always prone to being wrong. That said, it's probably a fairly accurate assumption for the Island because most of it has little topsoil and bedrock is often 6" to 24" under the surface. There are probably quite a few areas that would be an exception although, at a guess, most of them would be ALR farmland where it is difficult to get a building permit for accommodation. My first house was in North Saanich and it had a basement but it was only half submerged. Most of the houses around there were built on a slab or had an above ground basement, essentially a two story house with the entrance leading immediately up a set of stairs. There are a few of the latter in my area and one neighbouring house is built on a slab while the one on the other side has a crawl space. One area of my property has really nice black dirt down to 6'-8' and 20' away there is brown clay 12" down.

Yes, crawl space but no skim coat. In fact, no coat at all... just dirt. Anyway, not the set up you are thinking of. House was built in 1940 with no perimeter drain. A couple years ago did a significant reno that included a perimeter drain. Unfortunately, the storm sewer was on the far side of my shop so the only routes to it were under the shop or around it. The second unfortunate thing was to get a natural fall to the drain pipe meant there would need to be be a 6 foot deep trench dug under the fence line with my neighbour. Both options were going to cost a tidy fortune so a third option was to run it into an underground rock sump tank and pump out the tank as necessary. So, that's the pump that I'm messing with. Essentially, what I'm wanting to do is allow the tank to fill to at least 3 feet before the pump is triggered so it will pump less often but for longer. Already wore out one pump probably due to too many starts and stops. All the automatic submersible pumps I have found have a rather short lift to the float switch... ergo... my relay idea. Could be other possible options but when I get home from work it is dark and pissing rain and weekends lately have been non existent for me. One day soon I hope to be able to get at the pump so for the time being I thought I would try to sort out whatever solutions that might be available.

Old thread but my tach went to zero a few times on the ride home tonight. Worked OK after getting completely warmed up. Engine ran fine so it seems to just be the tach pickup. My question: Is this suspect connector half way up the left side or right side frame?

Read a few good reviews, didn't find any bad reviews or rave reviews for that matter. A few features don't work so well but that is likely due to the version of XBMC and could be fixed with an update. Yes, I started to upgrade an old computer a while ago to get a media box running XBMC but it looked like it would cost a few hundred dollars or more to make it perform adequately so the project got shelved. So, last night I bit the bullet and ordered the M8 from AliExpress. It was US$62 which translated to CA$84 delivered courtesy of the tanked Loony. Should get here before Christmas. Looking forward to spending the winter shut-in with some new entertainment options. Thanks for the idea Brian.

So far there has been no indication of a problem with the tank but, yes, what you say otherwise is exactly what I think as well which is why I'm throwing this out on the forum. Was hoping to be able to change the fuel filtre today but got caught up in some yard work that had to be done. Perhaps next Sunday I can get to it. Until then will just have to see how things go on my daily commute.

Gotcha!!! Look at the end of the last sentence in my post. No biggy... Yeah, it's always on reserve.

The first pump I had used a float with a mercury switch on a fairly long cord. This worked somewhat better than the one I have now as far as the frequency of pumping but sometimes the float would get snagged or jammed and would not turn off or would not turn on. That did not happen too often though. I think the pump that is in use now has a float on a 10" - 12" rod. I'll have to go and look at it to make sure. That might not be too difficult to modify... depending... I'll have a look at it on my next day off and in the mean time will try and sort out how to apply the other options you mentioned. Extending the range of the original float might just be the simplest way to go. Thanks for the input, gives me something to think about.

So the guy in the video has customized what is shown, probably for a fee, fair enough. Is there much of a learning curve to getting a usable setup? Did you mean a number pad, or, a touch pad as in mouse? In any case, looks very interesting. Thanks for the info Brian, will be looking into this further.

I can see how you might think that, and you are partially correct, but what's happening is the flow from the catchment area is too restricted so the pump gets ahead of the flow and shutting it down. I can see it happening. There is a bit of flow back when the pump shuts off but fairly marginal. The lift is about 4 feet of 1 1/2 inch pipe before the outlet drains away so not a lot of volume back flowing. As mentioned, opening up the holes into the strum box, a 45 gallon plastic drum, would help but is probably not a complete solution. The pump float level is somewhere around 12 inches which is not very much. Had a pump with about 20 inches and it did the same thing, just not quite so often. The tank is about 20x10x4 feet filled with drain rock. My relay idea would delay pump start and allow the strum box to fill a lot more before starting. This, initially, would make for far less starting and stopping and then next summer opening up the drain holes should make it work optimally. The point of the second float and relay is to turn on the pump only after the level has risen to the higher level, thus giving a larger volume to pump each cycle.

Looks very interesting Brian. What TV programming is available for free with that box? I have not had cable TV for over ten years. There are a few channels that run on the back side of my cable internet connection that mostly give me as much TV as I want but there are times there is nothing of interest on so I'm always looking for decent non subscription options.

I have a submersible sump pump with a float activated switch that pumps very often but not for very long. It's a fairly low capacity 120v pump that apparently is out pumping the inflow. The float switch cannot be raised any higher. Opening up the strum box holes would probably help quite a bit but I forgot to do that during the summer and now that it is the rainy season I'm not going down the manhole to do that. So, my question to those relay gurus I know hang out on here: If another higher float switch were installed, what would be needed to have the high float activate the low float but not have the low float turn off until it has finished pumping? What I'm thinking is the high float powers up a relay that powers the pump until the low float turns the system off. Any ideas or where to find such a relay?

While at work last Thursday it rained all day, not torrential but steady and the wind was blowing too. The VR sat in an open parking lot for the day. When I returned after work it would not start, although it tried to begin with. Ran the battery down then a friend came along and gave it a boost but still would not start. Ended up leaving it there for a couple of days. When I returned, first thing sprayed WD-40 into the ignition, kill switch and starter switch before trying to start. When first turning on the ignition, the fuel pump ran to time out so cycled a few times to make sure carbs were full. No go. Checked the plug connections, all were good except one was sitting in a puddle of water. Mopped that out and it still would not start. During the process, every time I turned on the ignition the fuel pump ran to time out. That was a hint that finally got through. The bike was parked on the side stand and on a slight incline, about 1 foot in 10, with one bar on the gauge. So when it clicked that the fuel pump was clicking too much I put the bike on the centre stand and it fired right up. It appears there was not enough gas getting to the fuel pump. Rode, with no problems, about 15 km before the fuel warning light came on and another 5 km before stopping at a gas station. Put in 15 litres, tank holds 20 litres. I'm still baffled by this. It's quite possible there initially were starting issues with getting soaked but it would appear the big one was fuel starvation even though there was approximately 6 litres in the tank at the time. I guess the combination of being on an incline and leaning over on the side stand was enough to move the fuel away from the petcock, which I should add was on the reserve position. We live to learn.

Twist a wood screw into the plug hole until it bites then pull out the plug. Flatten the point of the screw until it will just fit into the plug hole. There is a small adjustment screw under the plug that must not be damaged by the removal process so don't go too deep. Just a clarification, this adjustment screw is for the pilot jet which controls air movement not gas. The 4 idle screws are on the carburetor rack.

Perhaps you might also say what gear you are in. The difference you stated would be about the difference between one gear or another. Did you forget that you shifted?

Your question might be moot after looking at a few reviews. Here is one from Amazon: **** For all of the reviews on the unit not working after a while, this is a known issue and can be easily fixed by removing BOTH positive feed lines for a few seconds and this resets the microprocessor. The company suggests that you put both lines on a toggle switch so you can easily "reset" the unit if/when this happens. So, after I installed this, I found that the MP3 memory feature did not work. Meaning that when I turn off the unit, it would start to play from song 1 every time. The manual also states there is a clock function that also does not work. The unit is supposed to be IP6X waterproof meaning that it should be able to handle splashes of water to the face without water penetrating. Within minutes of using it the first time, water entered into the lcd panel and a short time later, the glue holding the plastic faceplate trim let go and the bezel came off. I purchased the Jensen MS30 which appears to be a better unit (we will see once I get out on the water!) ****

Besides price compare the cost of shipping and the application of a recycling fee. IE: Dennis Kirk adds an extra $5 charge. If I recall correctly, Rocky Mountain Power Sports has free shipping in the lower 48 and no extra fee... as is the case with most online retailers... but not all.

Elite 3 front: MR90-18 and rear: MU90B-16

Look at this: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0002JN2EU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB I'm getting to be a fan of Amazon for a number of common household items. Just sayin...

Stand your ground Kevin. In Victoria is is illegal for a car and motorcycle to share the same parking space. The vehicle closest to the meter or number post is deemed to be the valid user. Also, a space can be shared by only two motorcycles and again, the closest to the post is the winner. Just something to keep in mind when parking downtown.

This is not eBay but kinda follows your thoughts. Was chatting with one of the workers when I was getting my house renovated. He told me about a contractor he worked for who would install insulation in the walls, get it inspected then overnight, remove the insulation and cover with wallboard. The guy I was chatting with quit the job, good for him, but it goes to show there are lots of sleazy people around who will do almost anything to steal a buck.