camos

I'm 6'3" too and there is no way I can reach from ground level on the left side of the bike to the right handlebar. Linked brakes is not relevent to the ability to get at the bleeders. Un-linked brakes might reduce the chance of air getting stuck somewhere in the system which would eventually necessitate a repeat performance. Discussions are a good thing and are always informative, even when just watching from the sidelines.

If I had a wife that would likely have put an end to KISS, however, there might be kiss instead but more likely there would be lots of kiss ass to get her to help. That would work but it would turn a simple task into a scheduling nightmare. Me:"Can you come over this afternoon to help me bleed my brakes?" Them: "Sorry, I'm right in the middle of something but I could come next weekend." Me: "I have to work next weekend, how about the weekend after?" Them: "OK, I'll let you know." :rotfl: :rotf: I think I will stick with a method that actually is simple.

Since the battery fault and the headlight fault are both initiated when the bike starts I would expect the red light to flash immediately and then remain on fixed. If another fault is detected the light should start to flash again for a bit.

I know you are doing some very interesting stuff to your bike but I was thinking more about extras relating to installing the COPs and the Ignitech. That's a good price. I bought two Shindengen MOSFET R/R's through a group buy on the forum and they cost me $80 delivered which was still pretty good compared with what they would have been otherwise. The Loonie was at par at the time which made a huge difference. Can't remember which model they were. Put one on the Virago and one on the 90 VR and both worked out really well.

So you probably got a bit of a deal on the Ignitech. In any case, it's more than a box of beer so I'll have to start saving my shekles. Any other related extras? Thanks GW, the devil is often in the details.

As I said to GW, de-linking won't make a difference here. A normal human cannot tighten the left bleeder while squeezing the right brake lever. There are of course several alternative methods to accomplish the same thing but non of them are as simple or as bulletproof as the one I have suggested. Not so if it is done the way I suggested. Sure that will most likely work, sooner or later, but how is it simpler than having the hose go up from the bleeder? There are a lot of ways to accomplish a task but KISS rules.

There are good reasons to de-link the brakes but I don't think this is one of them.

Yes, great idea, haven't heard of any down side once everything gets hooked up properly. Well, except for the cost of the COPs and an Ignitech TCI. If you are finished doing it, do you have a total cost estimate that you would be willing to share? If I ever have a break from fixing things I would like to try moving the battery down behind the chin fairing. Some of the newer batteries are quite a bit smaller than the OEM one and can be laid on their side so there is a fair possibility there would be enough room. I could be kidding myself but moving the battery down that far should make at the least, a noticeable difference in handling.

I'm not ready to change the plug wires but it's good to know for when I will be. Sadly, I have the same problem with chunky hands but skin still grows back though so could be worse. Since all the plugs looked the same, checking the connectors to the coils was my first plan of attack. If a connector between a coil and a plug was a problem then there would most likely be a variation in their condition. Thanks, that was helpful.

That's the one we are all wishing will come out any year now. We have all helped Yamaha with the needed design features but it appears they won't manufacture the 3rd Gen until they can figure out how to make it play music now there is no longer any support for cassettes.

I guess I'm not built right. I can't reach the left front valve while pushing down on the rear brake pedal. Have to bend like a pretzel to do the rear valve while pressing on the pedal. It's awkward pushing on the pedal with my foot when doing the valve at the steering head. Accomplishing one out of four valves easily doesn't add up for me. I do like the setup though, it's nice and tidy.

That is a slick little unit. Unfortunately they seem to be only available from Australia. The cost of shipping would likely be 3 times the price of the unit. Have you used this tool yet? If it is mounted on the caliper at the top right instead of the bottom with the hose looped up from the bleeder valve it will work much better. The way it is pictured, as fluid is pushed out of the valve gravity will make it run down pushing air up towards the valve. That is not a good thing. If the hose is looped up from the valve there will always be fluid sitting on top of the valve so when you let go of the lever no air will be drawn back into the system. Didn't look well enough. They are available on Amazon, just not called Repco.

Is that 1.78 mbs? Probably not that's like dial-up speed. So last night I checked my Internet account to see what my D/L speed is. I thought from the choices that are available it was 15 mbs but after inquiring, it turned out to be 7.5 mbs. Somewhat disappointed with that but for an extra $2/mo I can double it to the 15 mbs level. I occasionally get some juddering and occasionally a lot of buffering, probably during peak usage times. I'm thinking of upgrading to the higher rate. When it comes to streaming HD video, a wired connection is far more dependable than WiFi. I recently bought one of the many Android tv boxes that are very inexpensively available on AliExpress. It works OK but there is next to zero support for them. From my belated research, I'm thinking I should have went with a tv box that will run Kodi on OpenEXEC which has excellent support forums. Such as the Pi2, or the Odroid-C1 both of which are ready made for a tinkerer... because they have to be put together. Check out the Kodi Hardware Discussion forum for more options.

No wonder I couldn't see them, they were dead centre in front of my face. Not to mention in perhaps the most difficult place to get to on the bike. Thanks again... very helpful.

This method seems to be the most popular. At least it is the one I hear about the most. As often as not because people are having difficulty getting all the air out. Really long arms are required to squeeze the lever while tightening the bleeder valve. This is how I do it. One man easy peesy and works every time. That is so true. Keep it simple. Better to buy beer than unnecessary tools.

Vancouver Island is not perfect, last night when I got off work at 23:30 there was frost on my seat. Nothing like a chilly butt to hasten one on his way. Fortunately the frost had not reached the road level.

The speed of your internet connection is only part of the requirement, there is also the speed of your WiFi to consider and additionally, the speed of the TV's WiFi. I've read that many TV's have rather poor WiFi bandwidth. It might be better to get a smart TV without built in WiFi and instead get a USB WiFi adapter. I believe a minimum of 6 mbs is needed to stream an HD video but that speed would probably result in quite a lot of buffering and at least some stuttering.

Holy smokes!!! I'll take your word that the coils can be seen in that pic but I haven't found them yet. I know the TCI and it's connector can be seen after removing the air box. I was expecting the coils to be attached to that plug but was not sure if there were any connectors in between. In any case, it looks like I will probably need a couple of free days before getting into that job. sigh.... Thanks Kevin, it's not what I wanted to hear but helpful all the same.

Is that a dumb question or is it just too difficult to manage?

Clean all electrical plug connections with contact cleaner and reassemble with a "tiny" amount of dielectric grease. There are lots of them scattered everywhere. One of the most important ones is the three white wire connector on the left side coming from the stator and regulator. If that one gets corroded it will affect charging the battery which shortens its life and corrosion there will also cause heat which can burn the wires and destroy both the regulator and stator. Most of the connectors can be found behind the headlight. The hardest connectors to get to are the TCI (need to pull air box) and a ground on the left side that can only be accessed by removing the left fairing. The last one mentioned is less likely to be a problem because it is well protected so just make a note to yourself to get to it when you can. Another important one is the large ground wire coming off the negative post of the battery that goes to the starter. Spray some contact cleaner into the ignition switch and the kill switch as preventative maintenance. The kill switch can be opened and cleaned if there is a problem but otherwise an occasional squirt should help to keep it good.

Didn't know you suffered from dyslexia Rick. Just trying to be helpful when I point out that you got it backwards. ... Life's a victory on a Venture. ...

I need to check the power connections between the battery and the coils. I've never been in there before so would someone who knows where they are and how long it might take to get at them give me an estimate? The Venture is my only transportation so I'm concerned about taking things apart and not getting them back together before I need to go somewhere.

Thanks a bunch Frank, you are the man of the minute. My 89 had similar symptoms, seemed to be running on 3...or... 2 cylinders and was missing above 4500 RPM. First ran through a tankful with Seafoam without any appreciable difference. Pulled the plugs after that and they were all exactly the same. Centre insulator was whitish to tan and the rim at the threads was black and damp. This indicated to me there was no obviously misfiring cylinder and no shortage of fuel. Limped along for a week like that with mileage down to 100 miles to the tank. After reading your message, I cleaned and tightened the battery terminals which totally eliminated the high RPM misses and probably 80-90% of the roughness. There is still some there although it is barely noticeable. Had a slight surge of power for a second or two a couple of times so when I get the time I'm going to go through the circuits that feed the ignition system, coils and TCI. I'm pretty sure the battery is in good shape but the symptoms were similar to what you found although it was low voltage to the plugs in my case. Anyway, I was at a loss before reading your message and you made my headach go away. :clap2: :clap2:

That's a very nice looking bike. Far too nice to be mistaken for a BMW.

The H/PH button on my 89 appears to be permanently stuck. Sometimes when the bike is started the radio will play through the speakers and sometimes it will play through the headset. Pushing the button does not do anything anymore, meaning that it used to work but now does not. There is a green light near the H/PH button that inicaes when the audio is coming through the headset. Or, visa-versa, depending on how good my memory is.