camos

The top bleeder is necessary to allow a larger volume of air to be removed from that point. Without removing enough air to reduce the size of the air pocket, an air-lock situation is created that will effectively prevent the small volume of oil flow and the low friction coefficient to overcome the force of gravity to draw enough volume of air out of the bleeder at the caliper. A vacuum pump will allow more flow at a greater rate that will effectively capture more air and allow the system to be cleared of trapped air. Without the bleeder at the head bearing it had proven to be very difficult to remove a large air pocket trapped at that point. By adding the top bleeder Yamaha provided a simple solution to reduce the amount of air potentially trapped at the high point and therefore make bleeding easy enough so that a vacuum pump was no longer needed to clear the system of trapped air.

I'm not sure what your theory is but the reality is that there is friction at the boundary layer between two fluids. As brake fluid flows past the air pocket the air will be pulled into the flow. This is known as the venturi effect. Under pressure the air will become denser and therefore be more difficult to be drawn into the flow. Under zero pressure more air will be pulled with the flow. As the volume of air at the restriction is reduced cavitation will be created which will fracture the adhesion of the air in the pocket which will result in more air being captured by the flow. These conditions will lead to virtually all the air being expunged from the line. That is the reality that needs to be applied to your theory.

@Ethier3 Great pix that really help to clarify a possible area of difficulty. I wonder if the zero pressure method I used here to bleed the brakes might be beneficial in reducing the formation of the air pocket you have displayed. What I'm thinking is when using a rapid plunging motion to flush oil through it might get up into the cavity you have defined and force some of the air out towards the caliper. With zero pressure there is nothing preventing the air from moving along with the oil. The method many seem to use is to pump up pressure before opening the bleeder. Any air in the cavity would be compressed and pretty much prevented from making its way to the exit hose until pressure is relieved. Unfortunately, when pressure is relieved, the bleeder is immediately closed to prevent air from being drawn back in on the return stroke. Kind of like a self-defeating Catch 22. Of course, the other possibility is that there was no air trapped in the master cylinder on the 3 bikes I have successfully used my bleeding method.

Since there is no turn signal switch on the trunk, this answer would appear to address the trunk's interior light rather than the turn signal light referred to in the OP.

I'm in the same boat and totally know what you are talking about. The Goldwing is the closest thing to a motorcycle that I might possibly be willing to consider except that it is somewhere between being a motorcycle and a car which is just not good enough. I bought my first Venture because I loved the look of it and for a bit of touring as well. When I take the Virago for a ride, it is so not enough, too little, too uncomfortable, too not powerful. I ride my Venture almost every day of the year and find it to be just right, certainly not too big and sometimes a bit too small on a trip to Costco. All the current sport touring bikes are too much sport and not enough touring for me. Sitting in the Venture is so much better than sitting on any other bike.

The lens is glued to the base, mostly on the sides but sometimes a bit on the bottom. Using a utility knife, carefully cut in the slot between the lens and the base. It's quite brittle so don't pry just cut gently as many times as it take to release the lens. My lens is not attached between the signal lens and the rear lens. Use silicon seal to re-attach the lens.

I see you have found and fixed the problem with the OEM compressor. That's a good thing because the Slime pump linked to is not very well built and in my opinion is not worth the effort to wire into the CLASS system. The first one I had was used about 6 times before the piston rod fell apart. I fixed it and worked about 8 more times before something fried and that was the end of it. The good thing about these pumps is they are small and easily stored which makes them a good enough choice to carry for emergencies. About the best thing about these pumps is Slime replaced mine for free no questions asked after 2 years. Very commendable for a $9 purchase although it would not take much to make them more reliable.

The Dunlop Elite 3 MU90B16 works out to 140/90/16 according to the Internet. The Elite 3 is: Overall Diameter: 25.72 Overall Width: 5.57" Rim Width: 3 inch. The 175R16 is: Overall Diameter, 26.90". Tread Width, 5.50". Suggested Rim Width, 5-5.5. There might be enough room overall but there is the rim width issue, quite a difference there.

I'll have to check the channels but the rest of it is how my routers are setup. Can you explain overlapping channels?

I thought I had the second router set up as an access point, will have to check and make sure. So on the admin page of the second router set as access point are the SSID and PW settings disabled or did you enter the same info as the first router?

That what I thought too and was just about to pull the trigger on a Vizio when I read a review that stated it did not have a timer. Bummed me out, since it was the only inexpensive TV with mostly good reviews. Went in to BestBuy and talked to a sales person who told me quite a few TV's don't have sleep timers anymore. They only had four models in that size and none of them had sleep timers. One did have an off timer but the shortest period was 2 hours which is about the time I would sleep before getting woken up by the TV. Found a few since then with sleep timers but the poor reviews have put me off. I hate shopping!! Getting back to the WiFi, I set up the two routers with separate ID's and passwords and so far it seems to confuse my phone when walking through my house. The phone is constantly trying to reaquire the signal as I move. It only seems to connect to the 2.4G signal so probably turning one of them off would be the best choice and use the 5G for the TV box. Will see what happens when I eventually decide on a TV. There is more bad nes, yesterday tried to run the lead from the TV antenna through the deck and found the upper wall does not exactly line up with the lower wall. Got a hole from the top into a void and a hole from the bottom into a void but can't see any light from either of them. Trying to accomplish the simplest thing seems to be impossible these days.

Excellent idea, looks like a good option if the WiFi is problematic. Now I just need to find a decent inexpensive 32" TV with a sleep timer. Looks like I might have to actually go into a brick store to find one. Haven't seen any mention of a timer in any of the specs.

So I had another look at the linked page and Method 1 part 4... Decide between LAN-to-LAN or LAN-to-Wan connection... is what I had to work around. The initial default setup was easy-peasy and gave me LAN-to-WAN with Internet connectivity but did not allow the sharing of files to devices across the network. So after configuring the second router as an Access Point I have LAN-to-LAN and all devices can talk to each other. Still working on the WiFi end of things but probably need to get the new TV connected through WiFi before I can get much further.

The setup you have is a larger scale version of the one I have. The two WiFi routers currently have separate SSID's at this time so my question on the matter was prompted by the planned addition of a new TV in my bedroom. I made the big mistake of not installing an ethernet connection in the bedroom so it will have to be served by WiFi. No testing can be done until I get the new TV but I'm trying to gain an understanding of how things should be setup before that happens. I did not mention it earlier but there is also a switch on my network. I am totally not up on switches. I needed an extra ethernet port and my son gave me an old switch which added another 8 ports. Pretty painless, plug-n-play although there seems to be a small delay now that was not there before. It is 10/100 and everything else is Gigabit but I'm not sure if that would make any difference. It's probably not a very smart switch and D-Link does not have any info on their site about it except for a not very informative user manual. There is no admin page so it is necessary to SSH in and I have not gotten around to doing that yet.

By the time I got through the linked info my head was spinning so will have to think on it a bit. The WiFi modem/router is upstairs and it connects to the cable co's WAN and does DNS/DHCP and NAT for the LAN. At my workstation there is a PC, network tuner and phone with wired connections to this device. At some point, hopefully soon, I will be connecting either a smart TV or an Android TV box from the bedroom through the WiFi. The other WiFi Access Point router is downstairs and has an Android TV box (with dual band WiFi) and printer all with wired connections. The WiFi is used by handheld devices throughout the house. That is pretty much the way I think I have it set up. So my question about the dual band WiFi was to get a clarification on whether both bands can be utilized at the same time to get the fastest WiFi through put possible. I'm not sure how WiFi channels factor into this. I do have a feeling that only one band can be used by a device at any one time. Everything on my LAN is just one connection through the cable router/modem. I don't think my new WiFi router/modem is quite as powerful as yours is but I haven't tested it yet. There very well could be some overlap with the two WiFi routers. This is also what I am currently trying to sort out. Nice, a truly fast connection, mine is only 15 Mbps. Although what I have seems to be adequate, mainly used for streaming video to only one TV at this time but, as noted above, another TV will soon be joining the network. I have not yet gotten the network TV tuner to be accessable to all devices. It is primarily used for OTA signals and PVR services when I get that part of it operational.

My cable Internet company recently supplied me with a new Wifi/Router Modem so now I have two WiFi routers on my home network. They are both dual band. I'm trying to figure out how they should be configured for optimum use. The modem/router is the DHCP/DNS server and is located upstairs. The second WiFi router is located downstairs and is configured as an access point so no firewall/NAT services. I haven't had any experience with WiFi so there are a few questions I have been pondering. What I want to know is could/should each router supply a separate SSID and password login connection or should they be kept separate. If they both had the same SSID would that create a collision conflict condition. Can the dual bands both be operational at the same time and possibly offer a faster wirless network speed? What is the better security protocol to use?

Just thought I would mention that I finally added the rest of the pix for the Big Bike Parts lens covers.

Yes but your link has a typo: http://cellset.com/ Awwww, it was nothin.

Yesterday I got into things and cleaned the TCI plugs which did not look like they needed it. What I did find though was the vent from the twinkie to the air box was plugged with thick white foamy oil. A bit weird as there was no indication of white oil in either the air box or the sight glass. Anyway, took it for a 40 km spin and the engine seems to be running as it should. Will be riding to work until my next days off when I'll pull the plugs to to see if they look better. I'm somewhat surprised.

That seems like a simple solution, just throw money at it.

I keep a spare key in my wallet and in case I lose the wallet as well, a spare is also kept in my riding jacket. If I manage to lose all three keys I probably don't deserve to go home.

Well that's good to know. The Tour Box Trim Rail I have is still mounted on a spare trunk so I can measure how much clearance it will need. Not saying it would be different but what I installed on the 89 is just the BB Parts lenses, not the complete light bar. My 90 has the complete BB Parts light bar which has a different base although I think the base probably has less to do with the depth than the lenses do. Thanks for the heads-up Kevin, I'll definitely check the measurements before doing anything drastic.

I like it too. I have one of those trunk bumpers but have been debating whether or not it was too gaudy. I think I will put it on.

Noooooo!! Don't "reject". Hee, hee.

Agree with the dead horse comment but I actually can't reach from the left front nipple to the right bar and it flipped my curiosity switch. I'm now at the point of acceptance that there are at least two people who can do something I cannot. In any case, it's a moot point because paying attention to the route of the hose allows me to stop at any time without getting air backing up into the system. That means I can go for a pee, or lunch, or mow the lawn before returning to finish off the bleeding job with no worries. Can't get easier than that.