camos

My neighbour had a set like these that worked really well for me on a bolt head that had become rounded. The head was not countersunk so a socket would fit.

Seems to me that 14.5v is a little bit on the high side, should be about 14.2v down to 13.8v. A steady 14.5v for hours and hours might be likely to boil the battery. Possibly the R/R is not working properly. I don't know a good test for that. The stator output can be tested by disconnecting the 3 white wire connector, start engine and measure AC output between the 3 segments. The three readings should be almost the same somewhere in the 55vac-60vac range. I know the proper range is somewhere on this site, just can't remember. I recently replaced the stator on my 89. At idle it puts out 13.6v with normal lights on plus a pair of LED fog lights. With the brake lights on it drops to 13.2v. At over 2500 RPM the max output is 13.9v.

You have all the knowledge you need so you can be your wife's hero and save the day.

It is rather difficult to answer someone who has their head stuck firmly in an ostrich hidey hole. I'm beginning to think the solution is too simple for some people to believe it can possibly work better than throwing lots of money as possible at it. Everyone has their demons...

So I guess you didn't read the very first post in this thread. Speed bleeders are not in themselves a bad thing just unnecessary once you learn how to properly conduct the bleeding process.

This would be a good place to use my favourite patch/repair method using a mix of ABS and MEK. Put some MEK and some ABS scraps in a small glass jar with a lid that will seal. In a day or two the two components will become an ABS putty that can be used to build up the damaged fitting. Swirling the jar to redistribute the MEK every so often will help speed up the process. Getting the right consistency is pretty much trial and error but it is easiest to make a fairly loose mix and then let it dry out until it is like play dough or Plasticine. Squirt some MEK on the damaged part of the elbow, let it sit for a minute or so, give it another squirt then press the putty into the damaged area. Once it has set in a few hours use a utility knife and a file to shape the patch. It will take a few days to fully cure then finish using a fine sandpaper. Doing repairs this way you should have a solvent applicator bottle which is essentially a small plastic bottle with a needle. A metal screwdriver works well to stir with. When done the remaining plastic on the screwdriver can be allowed to harden then it can be easily cut off to clean up the screwdriver. The left over mix in the jar can be saved for any repair/rebuild on the fairing. It will eventually harden but adding more MEK will rejuvenate the mix. Using white ABS might give a close enough color match to the OEM silver although I think perhaps using black for the patch then spray paint the elbow black would be the best looking. I think the VMax elbow comes in black but I'm not certain of it.

Do the MkI pegs split the difference with the MkII position? So 1.5 inches forward and 1.5 inches behind approximately? I would assume so but are the foot controls also movable with the pegs?

Bubbles that pass by are not likely to be a problem since they will make it out at the caliper bleeder. Air that collects at the metering valve would be air in the system that never made it out. Gravity will make it collect at a high point such as the metering valve. Putting in a dead end bleeder line will offer a collection point that is easy to clear out and probably make it easier to deal with any brake fluid spillage. I don't know whether it is worthwhile making the effort to install a midpoint bleeder on a Mk I but since it was worth it to Yamaha to modify the Mk II then I would consider it to be likely a good thing.

As mentioned the enrichment circuit can get jammed up just like a carb does when a bike is not being run on a regular basis. Running with Seafoam in the fuel will help clean gunky carbs and it will also help open up the enricher circuit. When treating an engine with Seafoam it is a good idea to also open the choke so it can work its magic on that circuit. So don't use the choke just to start the engine but leave it open for an extended time to allow the treated fuel to run through it. As when using a treatment to clean out the carbs, it can take a while to be effective so it can also take a while to also clean out the enrichment circuit.

Would it be useful to add a bleeder valve at this point? Never having seen this setup I'm just making a guess. It should not be very difficult to put in a flare to pipe T-adapter then run a hose to a bleeder valve mounted in an easily accessible area.

The left front caliper is part of the combined system with the rear brake. The procedure is to first bleed the rear caliper and then do the left front caliper. Both are fed from the MC at the foot pedal. MkI's from 83 to 85 do not have the bleeder valve at the head, just the MkII's have it. I have never had to deal with that situation but would think that a steady flow provided by pumping the brake pedal should be able to carry any air from the head area down to the front caliper. Starting with a really full MC there should be enough fluid to flush the brake line. The problem with air collecting in the head area is that when pumping stops any air that has not been flushed will begin to rise back toward the head. Stopping the pumping to refill the MC should be done as quickly as possible or have someone refill it so pumping does not have to be suspended. As long as the vent hose has a fluid lock there is no chance for air to be drawn in through the bleeder. I have never had the need to use a vacuum pump so I can't give any advice on using one. These are very small systems so pumping fluid through them probably happens quite quickly so it might be very easy to empty the MC and draw air in resulting in the need to to start over again.

There is no OEM Gen 1 light bar but there are a number of aftermarket trunk light bars. The one I have is a set of replacement lenses that fit the OEM reflector base on the trunk. Read this thread for more info. If you are after something else then eBay is probably the best place to look.

That tells me there is a lean condition that causes the backfire. Apparently solving the condition by using higher octane fuel actually confirms the problem since higher octane is harder to ignite and will reduce pre-ignition due to improper fuel mixture. Seafoam may eventually clear out the carbs, it usually takes more than one tankful to clean up dirty carbs. There is also the possibility of air leaks in the carb hoses that will create a lean condition. Syncing the carbs might be a good idea as well if a previous sync was done on a dirty carb. Check the balance of the front tire. Perhaps when the seals were done the forks were not reassembled correctly. Loosen to snug: the fender front wheel and axle fork brace upper and lower triple tree clamps Raise bike. Spin wheel as fast as possible then clamp the brakes on. Lower bike and exercise forks a couple of times. Re-tighten everything. Check the play in the head bearing. It should be able to be pushed from lock to lock with ease and bounce once. Any more than once and it is too loose. No bounce at all means it is too tight.

Yeah thanks....If I remember correctly, I used a 9/16 bolt with two nuts jammed on when I re-did my 90. That is actually what I could not find but it seemed easier to say 17mm Allen socket just because everyone would know what I meant.

In my opinion, fork oil is a lightweight version of hydraulic oil both non detergent and anti-foaming. Hydraulic oil does not have an issue with absorbing moisture which tells me brake fluid is quite different although I can't remember how it differs beyond that. Automatic transmission fluid is also hydraulic oil and was used in forks for many years in the 80's. Even recommended by OEM's such as Honda. From what I have read, there is no standard determination of weight for either fork oil or ATF. The viscosity reading apparently varies from one manufacturer to another. 32W hydraulic oil is the most commonly used and apparently also is rated differently so 32W hydraulic oil does not relate to 20W fork oil. All very up in the air. I'm having second thoughts about using engine oil and might decide to use an ATF like Dextron. Yesterday I dismantled to the point of removing the top fork plug but could not find my 17 mm Allen socket. Put it back together and will have to wait for a couple of weeks until I have time to try again.

Just to complicate matters, what happens to 10wt fork oil at temperature extremes? I used 20wt fork oil in my Virago and it worked OK in both summer and winter. The ride was a little too firm but did a good job of reducing diving. The local dealer has fork oil from 5wt up to 20wt for $20/litre. I haven't specifically looked for 10wt hydraulic oil but I think it is/was readily available. In any case, this is what I will try this time MotoMaster Formula 1 High-Mileage Motor Oil 5W20

I'm planning on repacking the head bearings then flushing and changing the fork oil on my next days off. My inclination is to go with 5W-20, not for any logical reason other than splitting the difference relative to 10-12.5 Wt fork oil.

Ahh yes, 360 ml each. Thanks. Measuring height might be a better choice than measuring volume unless there is certainty both forks were absolutely empty before re-filling. Have you used motor oil as a substitute or talked to anyone who has? Viscosity will change with temperature so starting with 7.5 or 10 could lead to who knows what viscosity after pounding through a few twisties.

I'm going to be doing some maintenance on the forks with OEM springs so looking around to find any tips that might be helpful before getting started. When you say level are you referring to inches down from the top? So 5.5" would have less oil than 5.25". About how much oil would that be? I guess a liter of oil will be more than enough to do both.

I had to replace the stator on my 89 and looked for the procedure I had uploaded after doing my 90. All the pix had disappeared so I updated the procedure and the pix. Hopefully by now Nate has found the answer to installing the "C" clip but I added that and made a few other small changes.

Both Canadian Tire and Walmart carry Rotella T dino and synthetic. It is made for diesel engines but works just fine with wet clutches. I usually buy a 20 litre pail when they come on sale.

Hopefully you unplugged the keyboard before pouring alcohol on it. If not then you will probably need a new one. There are a number of ways to clean a gummed up keyboard. Probably the most common is to pry off each keypad then use a cotton swab with alcohol to remove the sticky stuff. Here are some instructions for doing it in the dishwasher.

Just wanted to say thanks to Yamagirl for the connector pic and the wiring diagram one as well. Both were of particular help in sorting out an ignition problem that has been plaguing me for almost 6 months. All 4 cylinders were firing but not at full capacity. The plugs were identical, didn't look bad but were wet. Along with poor gas mileage the engine was not putting out full power. I think there were multiple issues at play because I thought the problem had been identified and fixed several times but it kept coming back. The final solution was the identified rectifier connector, once that had been cleaned full power was restored. Along the way, I discovered the stator was not putting out full power 50v, 46v, 47v AC which was probably a contributing factor since voltage at running speed was only about 13.5 DC and was easily reduced by slightly oxidized connectors at the TCI and R/R. I have a new stator on the way so should be back to perfect in a week or so. Cheers to Yamagirl and all the rest of you who offer possible solutions to so many of our unsolvable situations.

If the taskbar is not locked it can be dragged to any side by a lazy mouse click... or a sleeping one for that matter. Rt-Clk on the taskbar and you should see a menu item "Lock the taskbar".

The front fender is ABS plastic as is all the other plastic on the Venture. You might as well get comfortable with repairing ABS since you will most likely need be doing it for as long as you own the bike. That may seem terrible but it's not that big of a deal. ABS is not that hard to repair once you learn how and there are lots of threads explaining the different methods to go about it. In my opinion, the best and easiest repairs/rebuilds are done using ABS scraps mixed with methyl-ethyl-keytone or MEK to make an adhesive paste filler. With a hairline crack that naturally fits tight together, a squirt of MEK will bond it together without making a mess. The use of ABS plumbing cement will also do a reasonable job as long as the repair can be done out of sight. If you manage to mess up the repair you can always buy another fender but I think you will find it is easier than you might think.