camos

If you are using Windows then MSPaint will rotate your image before uploading. It can be found on Start | Programs | Accessories.

Did you find the rest of Part 2 on Kodi? Thanks for mentioning it from me too.

Remember, the "engineer" was an actor and the director probably was not an engineer or a mechanic either. I wonder if the Knucklehead motorcycle they ended it with was such a dramatic change in style from all the other motorcycles? It was purdy and proof that blue is the fastest.

Are motorhomes like motorcycles in that the price is lowest before or during storage and then goes up when it comes time to use them?

It is always safest to use an OEM gasket but in most cases a gasket can be cut from "regular" gasket paper. The thing is, regular covers a fairly wide range of thickness. You should be able to tell if the cover is meant to be part of how the gears are kept in place. If it is just a matter of the cover not being too close or tight then the thickness won't matter very much as long as it is enough. When using gasket maker or sealant, apply a good amount to one side then close the cover, position it using the bolts but do not tighten until after it has set. These instructions should be found somewhere on the gasket sealant package.

Easiest way is to rotate the original pic then upload it again.

I thought Canadians were over taxed but wow!!! that's a lot of tax. When I imported my 89VR from the USA there was no import tax because it was over 15 years old. I did have to pay a sales tax of 14% on the purchase amount. Can't help with radio specs but we do have several members from the UK and other parts of Europe who will likely chime in on what they know. Unless you are intent on restoring to OEM specs I'm thinking you would be best served by purchasing an aftermarket radio of with the required specs. There is the possibility of fuel delivery problems due to sitting for a long time. The pilot jets control the mixture at idle and up to mid-range RPMs and are easily contaminated when not in use for a while. There is also the possibility of low output from the charging system. I experienced that about 6 months ago when my stator was dying. The engine sounded like it was running on 3 or 2 cylinders and would get better at higher RPMs. All the plugs were equally sooty and wet so no miss but all were putting out a weak spark. After changing the stator the engine now runs very well without me doing anything with the fuel or ignition systems.

You done good. I wish I could say the same. The only time I laid my 90 over was about one month after starting to ride it. Pulled into a parking lot space and while trying to get the kickstand down tilted a bit too far to the right and it started to go over. Could not stop it but did manage to get in between the bike and the truck next to me. Couldn't move without risking it hitting the truck and could not get enough purchase to lift it. So there I was, stuck until a few good Samaritans came by to help me. The first time I laid my 89 over was in my driveway. It was late at night after work, came through the portico which was dry and hit some ice. Was going very slow so no damage but could not get it up either since the ice was acting like ice does, very slippery. Fortunately, my neighbour came to the rescue. The second time I laid the 89 down was on ice as well, but at 30 mph a couple of blocks from my house. Gouged up the left side crash bars and broke the top corner of the fairing. Somehow or other, did not manage to break the mirror... that's my silver lining. The third time I laid the 89 down was when doing a left turn out of my driveway. The engine was cold and I did not feather the clutch enough so it stalled half way through the turn. Was hardly moving so no noticeable new damage to the left side. Since I seem to be prone to falling over, I'm in the process of doing something about that. Here are some pix of my new crash bars. They are not finished yet. It is the first fitting and they will be painted, not chromed.

When attaching a pic from a computer within a post it says image(s) but will only allow one choice. I might be nice to u/l more than one at a time. Although if you want to control where they go in the text then perhaps the current method is the most efficient. I liked the thumbnail way better because it creates less clutter. Once you have seen the full size pic then there is no point having it full sized every time you return to the thread. Anyone still on dial-up or possibly has a slow/low data limit on their cell might prefer the smaller image size which will speed up the initial loading of the page. Although it is not the fastest, I have broadband on my computer so the image size is of no real consequence to me. I'm a bit of a Luddite when it comes to cell phones and cannot imagine going through the many hassles of using one to enjoy this site.

I nominate you. After all, you do like to be outside the box.....

Sluggish with no fuel getting to it would indicate low power as in battery issues. If the battery is good then a connection issue to the fuel pump or with the pump's points.

What Bob is telling you about stator output is correct and within the average. There seems to be some confusion about what connectors were being measured and where the AC and DC were being measured. So the reading here should be at or about 60 VAC on both sides of the 3 wire stator connector. The voltage out of the connector should be essentially the same as the voltage into the connector minus any drop due to poor connectivity. Any noticeable difference indicates a faulty connection. We are talking about AC voltage here. DC voltage is measured on the two wire connector coming out of the R/R. The voltage here at 2500 RPMs or more should be around 14 VDC. A voltage of 13.75 at 2500 RPMs would be on the low side of adequate but it should still charge the battery. That is , of course, if the 13.75 v actually gets to the battery. There are a lot of connectors involved in the charging system, both positive and negative. Any degrading in these connectors will affect the output level. So far you have focused on the stator which seems about right and the R/R output which seems a bit low. Have you pulled the R/R and cleaned the mount points? The mounts for the OEM R/R provide the ground connection and also act as a heat sink to the frame. A compromised connection here should affect the R/R ability to sense how much voltage is needed. To me, a poor ground at the R/R most likely will create a low sensor reading and so the output would be increased to provide more DC voltage but since your R/R is putting out slightly less voltage than it should normally do it would appear the R/R is defective. Even if the R/R is slightly defective, some charging of the battery should take place if all the other connections are adequate. Clean all the connections between the stator and the R/R, the R/R and the battery and particularly the battery to ground, that's both ends. Once that is done, whatever problems exist can be directly attributed to the components.

The aluminum spacer thing is called a cap in the parts fiche and it definitely does have an o-ring on it. The 17 mm hex plug is called a Bolt, cap in the parts fiche and also has an o-ring on it. If your bolt cap does not have an o-ring does it have a recess where an o-ring might logically fit? At least that is how I remember it however, I'm also getting fuzzy on it even though it was only two weeks ago that I had my forks apart. sigh.... Weaving on the tar snakes can be caused by an under inflated tire and loose head bearings. Although I can't say as a fact but if the forks were acting differently from each other it would seem likely that also might cause weaving. There are the anti-dives which need to act in unison. If one was plugged up then there would be a difference in pressure from one side to the other. There is also the amount of air pressure from one side to the other which should be compensated by the equalizer hose between the forks. If one side was leaking only under pressure during normal riding then it might possibly cause a weave before equalizing could take place.

The first question I would ask is why? What do you hope to accomplish by increasing the size of the idle jets? Any time someone messes with the stock configuration of the fuel system, the air intake system or the exhaust system they open a Pandora's box of adjustments that usually end in worse performance or MPG than there was to begin with. Those systems were designed to work together in harmony so any tweaking of one will require adjustments to the others as well. It can be done but it is rare that anyone ends up with a better running engine without making extensive changes.

ABS plumbing is used for drainage systems, not pressure systems. For example, the drain from sinks and toilets as well as the perimeter drains around a house. ABS is quite a bit less expensive than PVC and it is rigid so it will maintain the necessary flow characteristics that flexible tubing does not do naturally. I have a couple 12" x 2" scraps of ABS pipe and a few used elbows left over from a renovation that get chopped up and added to my MEK putty jar whenever there is a repair needed on the VR. Even buying ABS pipe new is very inexpensive.

Where do you work? I'd like to try to find it.

Seems to me with how long it has been sitting all the connectors and grounds should be taken apart, cleaned with electric contact cleaner and if necessary with emery cloth or fine sandpaper. If the wiring is not well connected a lot of time will be wasted chasing individual symptoms. Once you know the wiring is good then troubleshoot the individual components.

When did that happen and what has replaced it for drain pipe? Black ABS plumbing pipes and fittings are still available in the outback of Canada. Including acetone in the mix might be a negative when it comes to paint degradation and since MEK is all that is necessary it would come down to availability and cost.

Along with the MEK mentioned, this is my basic repair kit. The only special part needed is the solvent applicator needle which makes wicking MEK directly into a crack very easy. MEK is a far better solvent for ABS than acetone and far safer too. Acetone will dissolve most paints whereas MEK does not, at least the paint on our Ventures. It will of course dissolve the plastic behind the paint so it is wise to not be too sloppy. I don't use Oatey's, whatever it is, just MEK and add ABS scraps to make an appropriate paste or putty. The trick when using a fairly firm and relatively dry mix is to apply MEK to the surface to be bonded for a few (20-30) seconds then apply some MEK to the putty surface to be bonded then press into place.

Here are some pix of the fork air collar. I could not get a good angle without removing the fairing so I'm not sure they will be helpful. It looks to me that there is a spacer piece on each side though. The collar is sitting on the spring clip and the fork cap appears to be properly positioned at the top so there isn't any way to get it wrong.

Oh, do you mean using the waste removal device instead of using the proper name of toilet? Ewweuu, gross!!! Last week a TV announcer created a tempest in a teapot when she mentioned "coloured people" rather than "people of colour". I'm brown fading to yellow and do not feel the least bit degraded or disparaged when I get called coloured. I swear the world is getting stupider rather than smarter. We is going backwards.

That's what I call stouwp. Never make soup cuz it dribbles down my chin. Got nothin on that but it probably makes sense, after a fashion at least.

It wouldn't take much to turn the 2016 FJR from a Sport Touring bike into a Touring Sport bike with two comfortable seats and real storage capacity, like a new version of the Gen 1. Remodel the oh so comfortable Venture Royale seat to fit behind the FJR tank, drop the exhaust pipes to parallel just before the mufflers then add on a version of the MkII saddlebags and trunk. There you have it, a full touring package with all the modern amenities for touring in comfort and style. Too easy.

Seems to me you are trying to quantify dis-similar trips with a variable number of hills and a variable amount of wind. Then there is the fuel gauge which is not necessarily exactly linear. The fuel tank is not completely symmetrical so the bars would have to be spaced at a variable distance in order to precisely equate the amount of fuel in the tank. When I fill my VR it gets more miles in the top half than in the bottom half. Part of that would be due to me overfilling the tank to a degree. I always rock the bike to get rid of any air bubbles and then fill and shake, fill and shake until there is about 1/4" of clearance to the small air hole in the neck. This makes it as full as it can get which reduces the variability in how much fuel can be put in the tank. The air bubble thing seems to happen mostly when on a highway trip with the engine as hot as it can normally get. The first time this happened to me the tank was filled close to normal full when a burp happened and spewed fuel all over the place. After that I started to rock the bike as soon as I could see fuel in the tank until it burped and then the top part of the tank can be filled without worrying about spewing. Over filling the tank will reduce the amount of air space available to compensate for any expansion of the fuel. This might be a problem when in a really hot climate. I have ridden in Wyoming and Oregon in 90ish temps without a problem however it is possible in hotter climates that the fuel could over flow occasionally. Since I always fill the tank to the same point and (almost) always run the tank down to the warning, I can use the trip gauge to track mileage reasonably accurately. Trying to do that with a partial tank is not likely to be very repeatable or tell you very much. I have also run the tank completely empty a few times just to see how many miles it will go after the warning. Naturally I carry spare fuel when I do that. A plastic one gallon gas can fits into the saddle bag perfectly.

Can't help with the wrapping but did you look here for the paint? These are the two colours for the maroon 89: http://www.colorrite.com/product/yamaha-00ro-graceful-maroon-grm-1825.cfm http://www.colorrite.com/product/yamaha-00jy-miyabi-maroon-mym-1853.cfm