camos

There are a few threads on here about guys exchanging MkI forks for the MkII's. MkII lowers will fit the R1/R2 calipers and the forks are a straight swap. Be advised that the anti-dives on the MkI are hydraulically activated while the MkII anti-dives are electric. This means the springs should be upgraded to progressive ones which don't need working anti-dives. The forks you pictured are unlikely to fit as well as 1st gen forks, stick with what works.

So a nice venison roast for Christmas dinner? Make a nice change from turkey or ham and save the prime rib for later.

The thing about shim kits is they likely will not have the shims needed. I borrowed a tool and about 20 shims from a friend but was only able to use 4 and had to buy another 9. The cost of shipping, across the border mind you, was close to the cost of the tool. In my case, I got one for $40 off eBay when I wanted to do the job again.

If you don't manage to find a loner shim tool there are a couple on eBay are not too expensive. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Valve-Shim-Tool-XVZ12-XVZ13-Venture-Vmax-V-Max-VMX12-VMX13-04105-/401240087862?hash=item5d6bc5dd36:g:e2gAAOSwKPNTx2y2&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-VMAX-XVZ12-XVZ13-VENTURE-V-MAX-VALVE-SHIM-TOOL-04105-/192042659944?hash=item2cb6a27068:m:mCXpbmtQrhNEaPcSUWIhcKg&vxp=mtr

I agree but the Dunlop site has that info. That might be why there is a difference between Amazon/MCSuperstore and MCSuperstore although perhaps more likely is is due to my screw up with the tire size.

So I made a mistake with the front tire link as it is the wrong size. Here is a link to the correct size directly on Mororcycle Superstore but it is not such a great deal. My apologies for the screw up. I'm still happy about my purchase on fortnine.ca though. It's rare that something can be purchased for less in Canada.

I did look at Dennis Kirk but they were priced a bit higherplus they had a $5 tire fee. I did not pursue the shipping cost but there was no mention of free shipping on the sales page. https://www.denniskirk.com/dunlop/front-elite-3-mr90h-18-blackwall-tire-4079-84.p543446.prd/543446.sku https://www.denniskirk.com/dunlop/rear-elite-3-mt90hb-16-blackwall-tire-4079-91.p542892.prd/542892.sku

I have never used Shinkos but have read that many think they are good tires although they don't give the mileage that E 3's do. I don't think the price of Shinkos compare so well when you add up enough tires to get the same mileage as an E 3 gets.

No, I got the right ones from a Canadian online retailer but I did make a mistake when choosing the tire link from amazon.com for USA buyers.

I've been looking at the cost of E3 tires for my VR. They seem to be at a good price at Amazon.com in the US, interestingly sold by Motorcycle Superstore for less than for what is offered on motorcyclesuperstore.com. https://www.amazon.com/Dunlop-Elite-Touring-Front-Tire/dp/B001VJ1GQ6/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1482186674&sr=1-8&keywords=ELITE+3+TOURING+FRONT+TIRE https://www.amazon.com/Dunlop-Elite-Touring-Bias-Ply-Rear/dp/B001VKLL2O/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1482189736&sr=1-3&keywords=ELITE+3+TOURING+rear+TIRE The Motorcycle Superstore site does not even offer the right size for the VR front, strange. Anyway, for what it is worth, the Amazon price seems to be better than I have found at any of the usual online retailers. So I just bought a set at fortnine.ca for CAD$162.52 each which works out to about USD$121.00 with free shipping.

Possibly, actually had no expectations. Thought you should know you are not alone in the alarming bot category... Never mind....

Gotta ask, is there something wrong with getting just the Sena and mounting it on one of the helmets you already have? My only experience with the LeatherUp Hawk is with one of their helmets. It was very cheap and lasted a couple of years and was probably worth what it cost but not likely to get another one. Suspect their headset might be of the same quality. I currently have an HJC IS-Max BT which has been awesome for six years. It has connections built in for a BT headset, probably a Chatterbox. My Sena SMH 10 installed over the cover plate just fine.

That thought passed through my mind but even if such a thin screw could be found it would probably just jam things up even more. I think Bob has come up with the best solution.

I probably would have tried to disassemble before drilling but it's good to know taking the cover off will give access to the bottom of the button. Unfortunately there was no total launch, just the spring and button sitting there looking like a Jack-in-the-box. At least no parts were lost in the process. Thanks Bob, your experience and insight has once again been invaluable.

Well, that's a bit of a let down. You are in good company so I thought you might rise to the occasion.

It's doubtful although I have not yet tried to get the stub end out of the hole. I'm not sure how doing that will go. It looks like the end that is broken off in the hole is most likely a bayonet that is wider at the bottom and holds on by squeezing together when inserted. It will probably have to be drilled out. I may have a button from the radio in the 90 VR, that is if I kept the radio parts after replacing with a round marine type radio. Getting the remains of the old button out will be the first hurdle.

Rick, you are the reason Don needs an alarm. Perhaps not the only reason. Just sayin...

Went out to check the bike about a half hour before leaving for work today. Some runoff had drizzled down the driveway and collected around the rear wheel and spread to the front wheel. Thought I should move it ahead to clear concrete. Flipped the side stand up but did not have enough traction to duck walk out of the little puddle of ice around the rear wheel. Didn't have enough traction on my right foot to shift into gear or get my left foot up enough to get the side stand down again. I was stuck, sat there for 5 minutes wondering "What the Hell?". Finally in desperation started to kick at the ice with the heel of my boot. Fortunately the ice was soft enough to break up and get to the concrete which gave me enough traction to shift into gear and move ahead to clear driveway. Proof positive of the axiom "Put mind in gear before engaging transmission."

So I'm about to set off for work the other night and found the AM/FM button sitting there exploded out of the hole. Looks like the end of the "plunger" that holds the button is broken off. Anyone know of a source for replacements?

Google is your friend. http://www.onepercenterbikers.com/dc-eagles-mc-motorcycle-club/

There seems to be a variety of possibly electrical issues here. Assuming the battery is in good condition, have you recently cleaned the terminals, checked the fuse holder and cleaned the several ground connections to the frame?

I am missing your meaning of "one brakes". I use all three brakes and most often apply the front lever first then the rear pedal. When coming to a stop easing up on the lever while the pedal is pressed makes for a more even stop with less dive. The brakes are still linked so squeezing the lever only does not have quite the same effect as it would if they were de-linked. I think the MkII's have good brakes/calipers while the MkI's are a bit anaemic and benefit most from upgrading the calipers, at least so I have read on here. Upgrading to the R1/R6 calipers on the MkII is apparently still an improvement but not so dramatic and, at least to me, is not worth the expense. I mostly ride one up without a trailer so a bit lighter than two up on a journey. After loading to the hilt on a Costco run the bike can still stop as fast as I would want it to. It is my theory that many who complain about the brakes not being good enough on the MkII have sticky pistons and or air in the lines.

There is likely something wrong there as the MC should be able to fill the lines without the aid of a vacuum pump. If starting from empty it might take a few fillings of the reservoir to get fluid to the calipers. There is normally some give when applying the brakes but squishy or very squishy is air that has not been bled out. If there is any squishy after bleeding with enough fluid to fill the line then perhaps you should focus on the method you are using to do the bleeding. A stuck piston will require more force to apply the brakes and will also prevent the piston from retracting. The only way to know for certain whether a stuck piston is causing problems is to take the caliper off and apply the brake. If all 4 pistons do not move out at the same rate the short pistons are sticking and need to be cleaned. A couple of weeks ago I spent more than 4 hours cleaning two sticky pistons on the front caliper by pushing them out part way cleaning then pushing back in and repeating until they moved freely. That was probably a waste of time and could have been done faster by pushing one piston all the way out at a time for cleaning. That is just a guess on my part since I have never tried removing the pistons. The anti dives on the MkII have nothing to do with the brakes, they are activated by the brake light switch. The calipers are unlikely to loosen much if at all on their own. I have been using EBC FA123HH pads front and back on both my Ventures since 2010 and have not noticed any excessive wear on the rotors. There is likely some but they are not fading away to a shadow of their former glory. If they are working properly the OEM brakes with HH pads will stop the MkII's as fast as they can be stopped. No need to upgrade the rotors although I don't know how that might be different after de-linking.

Naah!!! It's a conspiracy. You need a Guardian Bell hanging on your computer to keep the gremlins away.

Sometimes my space bar does not work too. A work around is to arrow left or mouse left to add the spaces missed and then keep one character to the right of the cursor until you finish the post. The next post should work properly until whatever sets the condition off happens again.