camos

There are more but this will get you started. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?127450-The-metamorphose-of-a-84-Venture-into-an-AD-Venture-Bike http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?126023-83-venture-vs-royal/page2

Sad to say Snyper, you missed everything. They were not considered intelligent enough to vote in our countries, that's yours and mine, until 1920 and even as late as 1971 in some European countries. There are still countries that refuse the vote to women. It wasn't until around the 90's that a woman could get a bank loan without her husband's signature and even then they often had to fight for it. A woman is unlikely to get paid the same as a man for doing exactly the same job. There are countries where women are not allowed to get an education, not allowed to drive, get stoned to death if they get raped. The stupidities relating to the oppression of women go on and on from huge to cruel to the insignificant. There is little that can be done with regard to other countries but you can make a difference in your own country just be becoming aware of what is going on around you.

The pedal and linkage have several pivot points that could be corroded. Since they are all linked together, any one of those points could be causing the stiffness. The MkI's have an adjustable pedal that slides fore and aft but, since I have only had a MkII I don't know if that could be a source of any seizure issues. I'm not sure what the difficulty is here, just pull it all apart and clean it up.

Specifically EBC FA123HH which are the double sintered hard pads. The same pad works for both front and rear.

Always a good plan to practice going slow, that is the hardest speed to conquer. Any old rubber water hose or PVC tubing of a suitable diameter will work. Never tried it but perhaps an old bicycle tire would also work OK.

Several things can cause the pedal to feel seized. Those already discussed and air locked brake fluid which can make the pedal feel like it's pressing on a brick. Best thing I can suggest is oil the pedal pivot points and then do a proper bleed job. After getting the left front caliper together of course. Since you have a MkI and it's all apart consider adding an mid-point bleed valve at the head bearing like the MkII's have. I'm not very familiar with MkI's but believe there is a fitting at the forward end of the engine where a hose or tube could be attached and run up to the steering head for convenience.

Hahahaha, good one..... That's my enclosed deck, only the walls have a roof. In the fall it is just one more thing to sweep and in the winter one more thing to shovel. Nice and private in the summer though. I like inside-outside living spaces.

Quite so for both, one keeps you alive and the other makes it all worthwhile.

Yah no kidding, totally bizarre!! Big flakes in late morning, about 2-3 inches then stopped until early afternoon then big flakes again for an hour. Right about the time I had to go to work so no , took bus and shank's mare. By the time I got to work it had stopped and the roads were almost clear. Beginning to think it's a conspiracy to keep me from having fun.

GaaaK!!! It's happening again. It went away for a couple of days and now it's back. Will it ever end???

I have had that happen a couple of times over the past year, but it fixed itself, what ever the cause may have been. Just had a look and as of yesterday I'm getting subscription notifications.

Not disagreeing with zagger on this but there are two ways to deal with this issue. One is to re-jet the fuel flow and the other is to restrict the air flow to match the engine requirements. The easier, less expensive method is controlling the air flow. IMHO. I have seen a couple of builds somewhere over the years that used either plastic tubing/pipe or copper tubing out the sides to replace the air box. Adjusting the airflow should not be too complicated. Measure the inlet area on the air box and divide by 4 should give a reasonable approximation of the amount of air needed to at least get the motor running well enough to tune from there. A washer/baffle installed like a butterfly valve in the inlet will allow an easy enough temporary adjustment to find the optimum setting. One good thing about adjusting air flow this way is that at a later date you could always re-jet if desired. It seems that most re-jetting to adjust for greater flow, usually due to changing the filter and exhaust, ends up getting a little more power but worse mileage. Not to mention being more expensive. A possible down side to using open filters is what happens when it rains?

No kidding!! While working night shift at the airport the snow started coming down so thought I might be trapped at work in the morning. Turned to mixed rain so was just slush by morning. This was at the West end of the airport. A mile or so away at the East end of the airport there was about 2 inches but a kind soul had already plowed the road so there were only ridges and the odd gob of slushy stuff. About 2 miles further southeast the snow/slush was mostly gone. Very lucky for me, only had a few squidgels on the rear end while plowing through sludge. It is surprisingly unsettling when traction is loose even if just for a little bit.

The brake pads you want are EBC FA123HH which fit both the front and back calipers. These are double sintered pads which are the hardest ones and provide the best braking.

Exactly right, however in this case, bobberizing it will make a good case for getting rid of the air box because it is too big and ugly to keep. My suggestion would be to use PVC pipes out each side to cone filters and rather than re-jetting mess with throttling the air intake using washers to get it back to near the OEM restriction. The air box is large but the actual inlet is quite small. Anyway, I think it would be a lot easier to adjust that way than re-jetting would be.

Yes, you are the one. Very appropriate advice for any rider any time of the year.

No matter how many reports or warnings there are I don't believe the vast majority of drivers ever think to look for a motorcycle or a cyclist at any time of the year. It is my feeling the only drivers who actually look are riders or cyclists themselves. When you are on the road, you are on your own. Look out for yourselves at all times. Like someone on here says, ride like you are invisible.

About this, should it not be the same or similar to installing a tach on the Gen 2's? I have seen several threads on here about installing a tach for them.

I would think any good AV program would also scan the pic data files for malware. I've never used Avast but have heard it is a good one. If you are on Shaw, they offer a MacAfee Security suite to their customers for free. It seems to work well and there is tech support for it from Shaw and/or MacAfee depending on the issue. Just need to log into your account and there is a link to the download under Security.

Perhaps, the battery is clearly displayed holding up the Smith girls.

My 90 doesn't have progressives but I disconnected the anti-dives due to battery problems and didn't get to the block off plates before replacing it with the 89. Can't say I noticed much difference in the ride. Was thinking of putting them on the 89 so was curious. @Basset: Now would be a good time to put some gaiters on the forks. They keep the seals from getting attacked by road crud. Style is personal but I like the look of gaiters on the Venture and think they look even better on a bobber plus without a fairing the forks will be more exposed.

Sure seems like a sticky float or possibly the choke/enricher slider is not releasing. Have you dosed the fuel tank with Seafoam? That usually handles minor to medium clogginess. For more stubborn problems a squirt of carb cleaner or Seafoam directly into the bowls. Forgot to mention that rapping the carb bowls with the handle of a screwdriver will often free up a stuck float.

Yes, 12 ga is mostly too large except for ground wires. My preference is 14 ga. Quite so for the most part but it should be noted that current running through a smaller wire will create more heat. When the size of wire is initially barely adequate then any corrosion or kinking or squishing will draw more amps and create more heat or even cause a voltage drop. For example the often given advice to put in a 10 ga or larger wire to the starter. I replaced that wire on my 90 due to hesitant starting but my 89 is still OEM and has never "yet" had a pause when starting. My favourite for replacing most wire is 14 ga just because I can buy a big roll of it for less than small batches of smaller wire. Mostly what I have done with it is on added relays to shorten the run of the OEM wiring and relieve the switches at the same time. Not talking about safety circuits here.

I have a set of those block off plates that I have not gotten around to installing. I put it off because I read on here somewhere that they needed to have some kind of pressure relief built into them for the forks to work properly. Do you know anything about that?

I think you will find that unless you are removing "unnecessary" components like sound system, CLASS and safety relays you will need all the wires that came with the Venture. Having said that, doing a re-wire with larger gauge wire will likely be beneficial since Yamaha used the minimum size that would work....for a while. A re-wire would also have the advantage of replacing possibly worn out insulation. Hard to say whether re-wiring would actually be worth the effort. Adding relays to reduce the load on switches would probably be a better course of action unless the OEM wiring is in bad condition.