camos

Seems kind of exposed, how does it stand up to fording streams?

I added a link to the NYT site to replace the broken video and then added a link to the original promo video. Vehicles like that should never be allowed to be used as public commuter transportation. It's bad enough trying to restrict them to staying between the lines. Imagine the chaos that would ensue with any amount of congestion or adding texting to the mix. Still, as a substitute for an ATV or boat it could be truly awesome.

I tripped over these tips at motorcyclecruiser.com and thought they were worth at least refreshing our memories if not actually teaching us something.

They call it a flying car but it's more like a manned drone or an ultra-light. Imagine a modern motorcycle engine in it instead of being electric powered. In any case, looks like it could become a popular way to terrify yourself....or.... tree huggers. This video seems to have disappeared so here is the original promo video. https://kittyhawk.aero/ Here is a link to a New York Times article also with a video.

When my mother downsized to a condo she went through all the family photos and created an album for each of us three kids. It was much appreciated and likely made it much easier for her to not have to decide which memories got trashed.

It isn't necessary to disconnect the plug. Automatic does not mean the CLASS will turn on by itself. It does mean it will automatically set the pressure at one of the three preset levels when turned on for either the front or rear systems. You can pump up the rear without also pumping the front. Hahahaha, yes you have to watch out for the few folks on here who are literally literal. Similarly, when I was referring to zero pressure when bleeding brakes it also was assumed to be atmospheric pressure at a zero differential.

Nice collection. Always had the hots for an MG TD or a Morgan but never followed up on it. A friend had the TR4A, it creaked, don't know if that was a general issue or not. Liked my TR3 better. Also had the hots for the Healy 3000 MkIII but never got one of them either. After the Triumph I got an MGB, very civilized vehicle, very comfortable and dependable although a bit on the boring side. The first Miata's were designed after it. Later on got a 66 XKE coupe...awesome... Most beautiful car in the world. Total pain in the butt to keep tuned. The 3 SU's could not manage the trip from sea level to the interior without a little massaging. After that it was trucks to haul my fishing junk around until I got out of it and then tried a 95 Mustang which eventually lost out to the Venture. The stang is gone now and only have 2 MkII Ventures and a Virago 1100 SE.

The CLASS doesn't work that way. A normal turn key on then push start will not activate the CLASS. It only operates when in ACC position and it is necessary to select Front or Rear then Manual or Auto to get it to come on. Seems to me you are quibbling on this. Loose will let air in or out but not necessarily allow dirt in. When I bought it, my 90 had a cut in the balance hose that prevented the forks from pressurizing. I rode it for three years before getting around to fixing it and who knows how long the cut had actually been there. The fork oil was also of an unknown age and it when I changed it a year later it was pretty dark but there was no grit in it and the seals still worked with no leaks. I'd say having a joint cracked is not an issue.

My first car was a 1958 Triumph TR3A that looked just like the one in the link. Loved the car, had electric overdrive on the top 2 but hated the side curtains, let in too much snow in the winter. All my cars were British sports cars except the last one which was a 95 Mustang GT. It had the most power but was the least sporty. Casey got me thinking about the feeling of riding, doesn't seem to me that it's any more free than driving a responsive 4 wheeler with no roof. However, dipsy-doodling through the twisties has about the same rush as doing a downhill slalom and way better than any of my experiences on 4 wheels.

Well, I didn't say open, I said loose so dirt is not a problem. Since progressive suspension apparently does not require any air pressure to operate well then air is not really part of the equation. Preload is provided by the spacer above the spring and damping is provided by oil moving through the valving.

I have a 96 1100 which is not very different from the 1000. They are as reliable as the Venture. Won't take much to turn it into a little bobber or chopper. Not much good for two up unless both are little. If you have to pose the question of getting permission then the answer is most likely no.

Didn't mean to imply you were deficient in any way. Sorry if it came across that way. Good idea about contacting your MP, a year backlog is ridiculous. Situations like this shouldn't happen, ever. Too many lazy fat assed sniveling servants that can't be fired because of the power of the guvmint unions. It's not as if the guvmint didn't have access to a person's age and know when they should be applying for OAS. Almost everyone should be hooked into Services Canada through the CRA (taxman for our southern neighbours) so the form could be autofilled and validated with no real input required. Course there is so much deadwood in their IT department that they can't hardly imagine how a computer can automate data, never mind know how to accomplish it. OK, that was a rant just to keep this on topic.

You have discovered the hidden danger of having tight fork seals. Airing down the front forks to zero was not an option the design covered. You can easily do it manually by loosening the equalizer hose fitting between the forks. Can't think of a reason that hose cannot be left loose on a permanent basis.

Yah, had a look in my 89 and it had a duct tube in it below the amp and such. My 90 has those pieces missing. If the hole went out the bottom then there would be no cooling effect on the legs from the vent panels. I always ride with all the vents open even when it is freezing out. Mainly because I was blasting down the highway one day and one of the upper ones popped out, amazingly, caught it as it bounced down the dash. Removed the vent panels on the side covers because I like the look of the engine peeking through. Have ridden occasionally in 90 F heat and can certainly feel the presence of the engine when stopped but not when riding. Too much jacket seems to be more likely the cause of your overheating issue. Get a decent mesh jacket and you will be cooler while still being protected. Gotta be aware of dehydration when riding in hot weather. It can sneak up on you because you may not feel hot or be wet because of the air flow.

Awesome, made me laugh out loud when I read this. Still smiling. Congrats.

With all that I talked about the only parts that really need to be heeded are the head of fluid at the bleeder and that the bleeder needs to remain open until all the air is out. The rest of it is just an explanation of why it works. With the number of twists and turns and the level of the MC, trying to do gravity only bleed is not a very efficient method even a not possible method. Regarding the MkI, linked or de-linked is a matter of choice that has nothing to do with the bleeding process. Adding a bleeder at the head end or replacing the line with a MkII version is a good upgrade as is upgrading the brakes to MkII or Rx versions.

I started riding again because it made my commute less expensive. Was in a reevaluating my budget mode at the time. Had forgotten just how wonderful it felt to ride on two wheels. On a four lane or greater road I keep my speed just a touch faster than the average traffic but try to ride in the right lane as often as possible so the tear-asses can easily attain their destiny. On low traffic country roads that are curvaceous but perhaps not exactly twisty I like to go a little over the speed limit. I often play a game of paralleling the center line as close as possible while staying about 2-3 feet in my lane. Not using the whole road somewhat makes it feel like a faster ride. If traffic and sight lines permit, when it comes to twisty bits I like to come out of them way faster than I went in. Dipsy-doodling at speed is exhilarating even if it is only for a short while. About the only time stuff drags is by mistake but then I'm on a 1st gen which is the sporty one so there are few roads that stuff will drag without going way too fast for the safety of all involved. Low and slow is somewhat of a personal assessment but I think I'm on your page to some degree, more or less.

Motivated myself today and flushed the clutch system. Looks like you were right, no float, whatever they look like. Checked the CMS after pumping down the reservoir and no warning. Case closed on that but still wondering about the floats in the brake systems. If they are sticky then the only apparent way to clear them would be to flush and flush and flush. I suppose a false warning might not be due to a sticky float but a bad connection between the reed switch and the CMS. Had a bit of a traumatic experience flushing the clutch today. Pumped the reservoir down almost to the bottom, put in some fresh fluid and no more pump action. Pumping the lever moved only a tiny bit of fluid with next to no pressure felt on the lever. Disconnected the banjo at the reservoir and only enough fluid moved to almost get to the opening. Fiddled with it for 20 minutes with no positive results. Starting to panic here, gotta go to work tonight. Finally in a desperate move I blocked the reservoir opening with my finger and pumped the lever. It pressurized and when released, spurted a little fluid. Put the banjo back together and had pumping. I'm guessing some crud from the reservoir got into the valving or discombobulated an o-ring in there. Fortunately the dash area had been covered with a towel. Did however find a few drops on the seat and the backrest. Maintenance can be so much fun?

Oops, missed that. It is still just an application form to be filled out. If the application has already been filed I would be inclined to go to a Services Canada office and get it sorted out in person. No one should rely on the pathetic civil service to get anything accomplished without the pressure of face to face interaction.

Not knocking mity-vacs or speed bleeders because they do work as advertised but I am completely amazed that anyone other than a MkI owner has difficulty bleeding brakes, linked or not. I have talked about this a few times, once you understand a couple of principles of simple physics you should be able to bleed each of these tiny systems in 10 or 15 minutes...including cleanup. The primary thing to know is that the law of gravity can work for you and against you. It works for you if the hose coming off the bleeder has a rise of a couple of inches before turning down to the waste container. Gravity will keep a head of fluid at the bleeder providing a lock that will prevent air from getting sucked back into the system. Try it, put the hose on the bleeder, open it and pump enough fluid to fill the tube to the bend. As long as there is no leak at the tube end the level will stay the same for as long as you care to watch it. Gravity will work against you while pumping to flush the system if the fluid does not move quickly enough to carry trapped air to the exit point. Slow moving fluid allows more time for air to float up and away from the exit point. Slow moving fluid, combined with pressure can also allow small amounts of air to be trapped at fitting joints. To overcome that effect it is necessary to pump as quickly as possible under no pressure. This introduces another principle, compression, which can ultimately turn a gas into a a liquid. That of course does not happen here but compression will reduce the area occupied by a gas which effectively firms it up and makes it cling to any depression which makes it more difficult to move. The practice of pressurizing the system then opening the bleeder is where this most commonly happens. Zero pressure is the cure for sticky air and is conveniently provided by the tube open to atmospheric pressure as mentioned above. There are a couple of variables that may affect the easy movement of fluid. One is not having the bike sitting level, as in on the side stand. I don't believe this should matter, I haven't tested it, but it might. The second is any crud in the system will tend to block the easy flow of fluid. It is quite possible that a system which has sat for a long time will have a crud build up and may take several flushes before it gets cleared out. That's about it. Happy Bleeding.

Yeah, you probably got it. Seafoam is not an instantaneous solution and does take a little time to work its magic. After your comment, I paid attention while riding and there is quite a roar that comes with a wide open throttle and the bike does really take off if the RPMS are at 3000 or more. Seems that your bike is running well.

The lower vents do not have any ducting per se, the flow is in through the front openings and along the bottom of the side dash fairing then down through an opening in the lower fairing. Any add-on mods using the space below the amp and radios could easily block the flow. The upper vents do have ducting that may not have been properly connected when reinstalling the left and right dash panels. One thing that can make the choke lever stiff or springy is lack of lubrication on the inside cable wire. After unhooking the wire at the lever tape a bit of cardboard or plastic around the outside casing and put a small amount of engine oil in it to dribble down the cable.

The DOT 5 is incompatible. When I changed over a few years ago I just started using DOT 4 and let it work its way out. Can't say I noticed any difference between the two so it's probably not much of an issue. It's been drizzling or raining here almost daily for two months but not all day long so the roads are often damp but still quite nice during the sunny breaks. Admittedly, I prefer riding dry roads but a little drizzle isn't too bad. Since I'm not riding just for fun I can only suck it up and go. Looking forward to not having to carry my splash pants every time I go somewhere.

What's the reason for calling about an application for CPP? I applied when I was 60 and all it took was filling out an application, no phone call necessary. Here are the application details, nowhere does it say anything about calling. Can't remember the details exactly but I opted for 60 because I would have to live longer than 80 (about) for there to be any financial benefit to waiting. I did not at the time and still do not expect to make it to 80. In any case, the amount received is so low that it will only pay for the taxes on my house and the insurance for my vehicle. That is not close enough to actually "live" on so I get to work until I die. That at least allows me live a decent life and not just at a subsistence level so it ended up being good choice. Of course the fly in the ointment is that I live to 100 in which case I'll be buggered.

Apparently you are using DOT 3. I think DOT 4 is a better choice since it has a higher boiling point and is less likely to introduce air into the system. The two types are compatible with each other, unlike DOT 5.