camos

Nice!! Now that you have had some practice I have two fork tubes that look ratty and could use your help.

Quite so but what I was thinking is not so much just the nearest vehicle in the travel lane but also the next two or three. In my observation, particularly on lower speed highways, the vehicles are virtually bumper to bumper for many cars back. I have had a lot of experience dealing with ferry traffic that is bumper to bumper for a kilometer or two. I like to do a little on-ramp warrior move when merging at full highway speeds. Coming up to the speed limit next to a vehicle in the travel lane, see if they speed up. If they do then match them and then throttle back and slide into the space they opened up behind them. Alternatively, if they don't speed up or slow down I crack the throttle and enter traffic at mach 1 before backing off. On ramping can be a great deal of fun.

Yes, along those lines people have used a soldering iron to weld two sides together and then embed copper wires across the weld.

I have not heard of that, thought both of them had a green light. If that is the case then the the lawsuit will or should go in Venus's favour.

Merging does not necessarily mean moving over into another lane. One possibility is for the vehicle in the travel lane to slow enough to allow enough space for the merging vehicle to fit in. That of course requires the merging vehicle to speed up to match the flow of traffic. It is an offence here to not allow enough space for merging traffic to get into the flow. Also, the overtaking vehicle must maintain its speed or slow enough to let the merging vehicle fit in so no speeding up to close the gap and prevent a safe merge. Right of way is granted until imminent risk of collision then no one has it. On a similar topic, a little while ago a USN ship collided with a container ship where several of the crew were killed. The navy ship ostensibly had the right of way, again up to a point that collision is imminent. When in a right of way situation it is required for the overtaken vessel to maintain course and speed until the right of way situation is resolved. The navy ship apparently was tracking the container ship for quite a few miles. Since large cargo ships are notoriously under powered it takes several miles for them to either alter course or come to a stop. I think the navy deck officer should have his ass in a sling over this collision. Sadly, or perhaps justly, the captain who was injured in his stateroom which was at the collision point will also get demerits for the deck officers lack of good sense and/or lack of training.

If you are referring to the pic of you holding a broken piece of the lower fairing then put it together with glue and tape it in place. I don't know how this will work with ABS glue but if you are using the MEK method I suggested, I would tape off the painted surface with cello tape then squirt some MEK onto the edges then put it together and hold by hand until it sets, two or three minutes. When it's set use longer pieces of tape to keep pressure on the break. Leave it until the next day to give the repair time to cure then smear a medium mix across the back side to build up a bit more strength. ABS glue has little to no strength on its own and relies on melting the ABS to make the connection so smearing glue on the back will probably not accomplish anything more than making a mess. Outside corners can be reinforced by first squirting some MEK on the surface (back side) to soften then press a thicker mix, almost like putty into the corner. There is very little time to get the pieces together before the MEK will evaporate enough to prevent a good bond. Squirting a little MEK onto the putty before pressing it into the corner will help to ensure a good bond. All of this can be done in place if you can reach the area with your finger.

It's the same here in BC but if you enter an intersection on a green then get stopped before getting across the onus is on other vehicles allow you room to move out of the intersection. In this case, I would rate Venus at 10% responsible and the other car at 90% if not 100% since the driver did not give right of way to Venus.

A little while ago Venus Williams was crossing an intersection when the light turned red and then her vehicle was struck by another vehicle which now had a green light. There seems to be some controversy about whose fault it was. The police did not contemplate charging her but the driver of the other vehicle is suing for wrongful death. Seems to me if you enter an intersection legally on a green and the light turns red you still have the right of way to clear the intersection. Just because a driver has a green light does not give them the right to ignore any vehicle stranded in the intersection. That at least is what I remember from when I got my drivers license in the Jurassic period. Would appear having lots of money and some star power paints a target on your back. http://www.msn.com/en-ca/sports/tennis/police-williams-legally-entered-intersection-before-crash/ar-BBDYi13?li=AAggNb9

Good one. Thought I would mention the rear caliper on the MkII uses the same o-rings as one of the front calipers. Can't remember which one but have that info on my home computer if needed.

ABS glue will stick things together but, unless there are different versions, when it cures it turns yellowish and also can damage paint. There is also epoxy glue that will make a strong repair but it is expensive and usually sets up sort of whitish grey so refinishing will be needed. My preferred materials are Methyl Ethyle Ketone Solvent (MEK) and some leftover black ABS scraps from plumbing repairs. Apart from being inexpensive, MEK does not affect the paint on our bikes so well fitting cracks can be repaired with little to no refinishing afterward. If perfection is required then of course following up with sanding and painting will be necessary. If a little reinforcement is necessary a paste made of MEK and ABS can be applied to the back side or, as mentioned, purchase a flat piece of ABS to stick on. Another way to reinforce is with light fiberglass cloth. Wet out the back surface with MEK once or twice to soften the plastic then press in the glass. It's better to not apply too much as the plastic will get too soft and it may deform Once it has set apply a thin ABS/MEK paste over the glass to fill in the voids and stiffen up the repair. Here is a thread I made on using this method. There are also a few comments in there about using other methods. There is also a thread on here that is worth looking at which explains how to use fiberglass and epoxy for repairs and re-creating missing sections.

Don't forget the negative is switched on the horns.

The trim pieces should not be breaking. There should be shoulder bolts in there so they can be tightened without stressing the plastic.

We get way less rain here than in Seattle. This place is special, hiding in the rain shadow of the Olympics to the south and in the rain shadow of mountains to the west. Victoria 23.95" - Seattle 37.5" - Black Hills 10"-20" No inversion layer like in Seattle either.

That's cool, like the dual purpose. I put a DVM only on my 89 in 2015. It also read .5 v low. Hooked the wires into a terminal block which was connected to the battery and it read low so I tried it connected directly to the battery and it was the same so figured it's the meter. Perhaps Chinese volts are low. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=106392 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=106393 Had to make a wedge mount that tilted toward me to be able to see it in the sun.

I know. although if you want to get down to the nitty gritty comparison, we do get quite a bit of rain which is not too pleasant for many.

Thanks for the clarification FF. I thought you had a Gen II and also do remember you saying that you had a standard, unfortunately I failed to put the two together when I made the post. :doh:

About 355 to 360 days.

It got up to 72F in the shade here yesterday and might hit 75 today. I'm feeling left out, well, maybe not.

I Googled scooter trikes and found a bunch of links with examples like this.

Out of curiosity I Googled motor assisted cycle in BC. This is what I found relating to a traffic court violation. To sum it up, a motor assisted cycle can only use an electric motor to qualify as a bicycle. Any engine assist on a 2 or 3 wheel vehicle is considered a motorcycle and must be licensed and insured even with under 50 cc motors. There is a Limited Speed classification of 32 kph which is about 25 mph. In the OP's case on here, claiming the engine is under 50 cc would not carry any weight and even less so if the LEO did his due diligence and checked the engine specs. Aside from all that, I wonder how that trike might work with rear wheel steering?

Does that mean you are not hearing the starter turn over? To eliminate battery or weak connection to the starter try hooking up a car battery to the bike battery. There have been a couple of occasions when my VR hasn't started right after running for a while and the problem was a dirty battery connection even though it looked good. Part of that could be a dirty connection to the starter which might reduce the power available. No heat or not much, to the touch is a pretty good indicator that a cylinder or two is not firing.

My Gen 1 has two volume knobs together. One is the volume of the radio and the other has a sound level sensor that increases the volume when ambient noise is higher. Don't know if the Gen 2 has the same feature.

Hahahahaha!!! Oopsie, shouldn't laugh at disabled senior citizens, sorry. We are all going to get there some day.

You got it, the brake lights need to work to allow the cruise to work. There are a few other things that can cause the cruise to be inoperable but there is no point chasing them until you get the light working. What's a "VC"? Venture something I assume but there are, for simplicity's sake, two versions for the Gen 1 MkI (83 to 85), the Venture Royale and the Venture Standard. The Gen 1 Mk II only came in Royale mode....I think. Of course there is also the Gen 2 which is a Harley wannabe followed by the real Harley poser and the latest from Yamaha, the Star Venture.

Posting pix is pretty simple if they are on you computer or online. Click on the Insert Image icon in the reply window. A dialogue box will come up where you choose From Computer or From URL. [TABLE=class: cke_dialog cke_browser_webkit cke_ltr] [TR] [TD]Insert Image X From Computer From URL [TABLE=class: cke_dialog_contents] [TR] [TD][TABLE=width: 410, align: left] [TR] [TD=class: cke_dialog_ui_vbox_child]Add an Image from your computer Allowed Filetypes: jpg, jpeg, png, gif *Choose File* *Upload File(s)*[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] The starred choices are links. Clicking on Choose file will take you to an Explorer box (on a PC) where you navigate to the folder that contains your pix. After selecting the pic file you will be back at the above box where you select upload. The image will appear in the reply box. There is the option to do more than one image at a time but I find it more convenient to do them one by one because there are usually comments to be added for each pic so it help keep them in an ordered layout. Alternatively, inserting pix from a URL is as simple as copying the web source address of the pic and pasting it in the box. That's the basics. Some additional info: There are some file size limits to be aware of. For me it's no problem since my camera is set to standard size which is 640x480 which will create a file size of a few hundred KB. If I take a pic from my phone there is no size setting and they are more likely to be around 2 MB which is a bit on the large side. I always resize my phone pix to 640x480 to keep them lighter and display just as well as the bigger files. The forum software will create a thumbnail for the pic which when clicked on will display the full size. There you go, even a Saltspring Islander can accomplish that simple task.