camos

Putting up your bike for the winter will not make the come any sooner. It will however give you more time to work on the Venture fuel injection system.

There is a formula and hopefully I am remembering it correctly. While sitting on the bike about 25' from a flat wall, get a measurement from the ground up to the centre of the the headlight. Transfer that measurement to the wall then make a mark 2" down. While still sitting on the bike, aim the top edge of the headlight beam to the lower mark. I think this is pretty much the same method used to adjust a car's headlights.

Well, the Star Venture is indeed a Venture in name but the point I am making is that it is not a Gen 3. The Star Venture is about as much a Venture as the Goldwing is except, of course, that it has Venture as part of its name and is made by Yamaha. Another thing of note is no matter whether it's a Gen 1 Mk I, Mk II or one of the several flavours of Gen 2 most of us on this site can offer some reasonably accurate help. That is not so with the poser Venture which is a new totally different bike and not a relative or even of the same species as the real Venture. Call it a Venture if you like but don't call it a Gen 3.

Does the Gen 2 have an adjustment knob for the headlight like the Gen 1 does? Looks like you aimed it higher than the original.

That's just too confusing. Even though it is just a poser, Yamaha called their new touring bike a Star Venture so that is what it is. A Star...ved Venture that could only manage a two valve or half a heart. This is a Gen 1 bike from a new line and should never be confused with a Gen 3 V-4 Venture which Yamaha has chosen not to produce. Hopefully this clarifies the matter.

You didn't say but did you do what cowboy suggested on the replacement? It is just as important as greasing the hub gears.

Yamaha would not have to be tackling this if they had not made the idiotic decision to call the Yamaharley a Venture. It's not and never will be a Venture but it is a pretty nice bike on its own merit. Venture riders would have been disappointed that Yamaha came out with a new touring bike and did not produce a 3rd Gen but we would likely get over it........eventually.

Replacing the bag would certainly be the easiest way to go but if you have the time the repair could be done for somewhere around $20 to $30. That is just a WAG of course. A quart of MEK solvent is probably under $10 and a small sheet of ABS is probably the same and probably similar for some fiberglass cloth. The only other must have is a solvent applicator bottle/syringe which is also not very expensive and can be reused. If the broken area is deformed it will need to be straightened into position using a heat gun to soften the ABS enough to move it without stressing it. Trim the missing area to straighten it up enough to fit a new piece of ABS sheet. The small cracked and missing parts at the corner and up the side can be filled with a firm putty made from MEK and ABS. If done right, this repair should be close the the same strength as the original. Embedding a layer of fiberglass in ABS will make it stronger than original. Once it is all filled and glued together the fiberglass can be applied using a wet layer of MEK/ABS paste, then the cloth, then more MEK/ABS. The idea is to let the "liquid" plastic soak into the material in the same way that polyester resin soaks into it. Working with MEK/ABS is a slow process as it can take a few days for the solvent to dissolve the ABS to make a putty or a paste. Getting the right consistency is also somewhat time consuming since there is no magic mix recipe and it is just done by adding solvent to ABS letting it dissolve then evaporation to get to a firmer workable mass. Commercial ABS glue might work easier to apply the fiberglass but the only kind I have seen turns an ugly yellow colour when set.

ATGATT!

Here is a link to a thread I made on repairing a dash panel. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?106178-Repairing-RT-side-dash-panel-with-ABS-MEK&highlight=plastic+repair I think it explains the process well enough but if not, just ask.

Guess you didn't notice, I'm a Canadian too. Essentially you make your own paste by mixing Methyl Ethyl Keytone Solvent with ABS plastic. MEK is relatively cheap and can be gotten from many hardware stores or a plastics store. That's where I got mine along with a application syringe. It's a fairly easy process and I've written a few posts about it. I can tell you more if you are interested.

Missed it: "out of stock broview s5 with the copper heatsinks."

I will say probabley. It reminds me of a situation I had early on with my 90 VR when on a trip. Was lost and tried using lots of spray carb cleaner which seemed to help a little but didn't stop it completely. Finally decided to put some Seafoam into the tank and finished the trip. Was just a day to get back home then had a look at it a few days later and there was no more problem. Didn't know about the heavy duty Seafoam treatment method or other additives at the time.

That repair could be a little awkward to get properly aligned before the tabs get permanently attached. Once you get the correct position, making a solid repair won't be very difficult. Perhaps you could try taping the tabs in position using a couple of layers of masking tape on each side, inside and out, might make them solid enough to test fit the trunk lid part. If that works and as long as the plastic on the tabs is touching the plastic on the support structure then drizzle some MEK solvent at those points to bond the pieces together. The MEK will wick into the joint and stick the pieces together enough to be able to gently remove the tape after waiting long enough for it to set up. How long it will take to set will depend on the weather. It will be evaporating inside the tape so it's hard to predict. Once the tabs have been solidly positioned the connection areas will need to be built up to make it permanent. There are a number of ways that can be done. After removing the tape on the outside of the tabs, my preference would be to make up a paste of MEK and ABS and press it into any voids in where the tabs touch the support structure. Once that has been done the repair should be solid enough to test fit again. If it still fits remove the tape from the inside of the tabs and apply more MEK/ABS paste to build up the corners. To strengthen the whole structure, remove the metal parts and lay a piece of glass fiber cloth around the outside of the structure, sticking down with a thin paste on each side. After it all sets add some more to completely fill the weave of the cloth. Clean up any dribbles or pointy things with a sharp chisel and sandpaper. Clear out the mounting holes and remount the metal parts.

Stolen from Jay Leno.

It's not my particular cup of tea but all the same the Rev'It!#95 looks like an incredible adventure on two wheels. Check it out: http://www.bikeexif.com/2-wheel-drive-motorcycle

So the full kit is a headset like the SMH10 or SMH20 plus a FreeWire and an SM10?

What is the purpose of this adapter cable? Just listen to music on the headset or also listen to the CB?

I'm guessing it will drive more like a truck in the parking lot as well. My Virago has 32-degree forks and, while much lighter and therefore easier to control, it isn't as nimble as my Gen 1.

It isn't just the manufacturers it's also the boomer generation. Look at the several wishlist threads on here, they are full of gotta have 1800 cc engines and built in GPS, satellite radio, explosive sound systems or what have you. Many seem to have lost track of what is actually necessary for touring. Seems to be more about one up-man-ship.

So basically the new bike with the V4 and shaft drive? Heh, heh, heh. I think Yamaha did an awesome job of designing the bodywork. It's way prettier than the Gen II.

Sitting is obviously the worst thing for carbs but even with daily riding, ethanol gas will cause buildup of crud in the carbs so a regular gas treatment will help to keep things running smoothly. Give it a soak then, as mentioned drain the bowl to remove any large bit that might have been loosened. There is a good chance that Seafoam will clear up your sticky float without having to spend money on getting someone to look at it. I ride daily and have been adding a couple of ounces of Seafoam every two or three tanks which adds up to about one tank per week. I don't have to travel very far and suspect that when using more than a tank in a day or two, adding Seafoam so often would not be needed.

That's one of my pet peeves too. I used to consider myself a gay person until the homosexuals co-opted the term then I had to stop using it. Same thing with me being a native Canadian until the indigenous people co-opted it. Back in the 60's being straight meant not smoking pot or not being "hip" but now it means heterosexual. Then there is cisgender, which is probably not an old term but means denoting or relating to a person whose sense of personal identity and gender corresponds with their birth sex. Ain't modern life just fun?

There is a subtle difference. Your wife was a dike whereas a lesbian/sudo male is a dyke.

An out of balance tire will bounce rather than float while going straight. In a corner it would likely feel a little more weird. Your description seems to be pretty close to what I was experiencing on my 90 VR when approaching or over 70 mph in a curve. In my case, tightening up the head bearing solved the problem. I should think a similar condition might be caused by loose swing arm bushings. As far as air pressure goes, I don't think it is relevant to this issue. Too much pressure is hard on the seals and too little will allow the suspension to bottom out. It is not going to cause a shake or shimmy. Uneven levels of fork oil will induce a shimmy. Misaligned forks might also cause something similar. Plugged relief valves in the forks might also cause something similar.