camos

Well Jack you are now being your usually obtuse and cantankerous self so I will let you stew on this little rant.

If Yamaha was intent on dumping the V-4 for their touring bike just imagine if they had simply lengthened the FJR to make more room for the passenger and lower the seat height. It still would not be a Venture but it would probably be a better touring bike than the new Yamaharley.

Had to get up from the floor after reading this. Well done.

Despite the obvious flaws in your premise, I will treat this as a real question. The air in the system is encased in a viscous fluid so as it is being pumped down and out the air is trying to rise due to the affects of gravity but it's rate of movement is slowed by that viscosity. Pumping the fluid fast enough carries the air faster than it can rise. Pumping slowly allows the air to rise farther than it would when pumping faster so more fluid will need to be pumped out when done at a slow rate that when done quickly. With or without a speed bleeder. Also, a vacuum pump will move the fluid quite fast so does it not make sense to manually pump the fluid faster than slower? Pumping fast or slow has nothing to do with getting DOT 3 or 4 or 5 all over the place. The waste fluid goes through the hose attached to the bleeder valve into a container. If you are thinking of the back flow squirt at the MC, putting the lid on solves that. The speed bleeder has nothing to do with the rate of flow, it simply prevents air from being drawn back into the system when the flow stops. When does the flow stop? At every release of the lever there is a back flow which is part of the design of the system which, of course, is why the brakes don't stay on when the lever is released. Keeping a head of fluid at a normal bleeder valve accomplishes the same thing as a speed bleeder making them unnecessary. This is pretty simple stuff.

Can I? OK then my way is cheaper, equally good and probably faster since it is not necessary to find where I would have put that vacuum pump that I used a year ago. There you have it.

Always wearing a helmet is just a very good idea because one never knows when it will be a necessity that can save your life. During the 6 years I worked on a scooter in parking enforcement I was knocked off 3 times and T-boned a truck that ran a red light. Went down once on my Venture after hitting some ice on the road. My friend MJ caught her foot once while mounting the Venture and landed on the ground. Her helmet had a little damage so possibly it saver her from a minor concussion. No serious injuries any of those times and none of them could have been predicted.

I know, was just stating my opinion that 640x480 was the best size for viewing on a website. Particularly for people who do not have big screen monitors.

Huh, well that's a surprise to me. Totally did not know that. Interesting that Yamaha got rid of that feature.

I haven't checked recently but there were no E3's that fit the Yamaharley. Might change, who knows.

I am not a great believer in the gravity method which only kinda-sorta works and is pretty much just a desperation Hail Mary. Using a vacuum bleeder comes with its own complications and isn't necessary if the lever is pumped quickly to move any air out before gravity allows the bubbles to move back up the line. The other potential problem is allowing air back in at the bleeder valve. Speed bleeders will take care of that issue by automatically closing when pressure on the fluid is stopped. These are not necessary either if the waste hose goes up a few inches or more before turning down into the container keeping a head of fluid at the bleeder valve. I think the post I made below in this thread is descriptive enough on how to go about accomplishing this job but there is a post with pix that I made a while ago on Cleaning and Bleeding Brakes which goes into more detail. When done right it is literally a 10 minute job to bleed the clutch. Similarly, it is about 10 min per caliper when doing the brakes. That is on a MkII, the MkI's don't have the bleeder at the triple-tree which is problematic and I don't know if the Gen 2's have that bleeder either.

Yes, you need a pic resolution of 640x480 which is the perfect size for uploading to the forum. If your phone does not allow setting the resolution the pix can be uploaded to a computer and resized using MS-Paint or many other applications.

You can easily edit your post and delete the pix you don't want.

Sure but don't forget, Yamaha gave the masses what they wanted with cruiser styling, feet forward controls and a fork mounted fairing. Seem familiar only now the masses also have an air cooled V-Twin.

I measured the forks and it turns out they are 41 mm. So much for my memory. The lowers are 62 mm. I'm happy with them and think you will be too.

I'm at work right now but I can get the exact measurements in the morning. I'm pretty sure the forks are 40 mm but have no idea about the lowers. I think the Rancho 1952 boots were 39 mm at the top with the bottom being larger. The material is stretchy and there was no problem getting it over the Venture forks and I would say there should be no problem getting them over 41 mm forks. The bottom end has two splits going up a few inches so they can fit over the lowers. They come with a zip tie but I didn't use it. The inside was folded up to sit on the fork brace while the outside hung down to cover the top of the lower.

Somebody on here offered some leather covers that did the job and looked quite nice. If Casey has to replace the seals then he will most likely have the forks apart anyway. These are the ones I put on my 89. They fit perfectly and I prefer how they look.

Hours and hours? Amazing!! Well be consoled, you are not the only one on here who has chosen to do this job wrong and spend a humongous amount of time to get it accomplished. Be prepared to spend weeks when it comes time to bleed the brakes.

So hang a plastic bottle on your forks? You wouldn't do that to your Venture...would you? Put some gaiters/shock boots on, they aren't that expensive. They were OEM on my 90 VR and I put a set on my 89 VR because they are such a good idea.

How does that work? Can't imagine a coke bottle being good for anything other than bleeding brake fluid into.

Nah, it was obviously a great bike from the beginning even though it is not a Venture. It would have been an incomparably fantastic bike if it was a Gen 3. That article is overflowing with complements but also has some obvious fake news: If Sena could do it then Yamaha could have done it. Just more hype and excuses from Yamaha.

That is essentially how my MEK/ABS method works. MEK solvent is better at dissolving ABS than acetone is and does not dissolve paint.

Yes it should but they are an unnecessary complication. The method I described works every time, is simple, economic and can be done anywhere. Works just as well when bleeding brakes. There is no point in making life harder than it needs to be.

Now you are just being mean. What Puc is trying to describe in waay too many words is how to bleed the lever pump in the MC. That is not usually necessary to do unless the reservoir has been pumped dry. If there is air in the pump it will be obvious because no fluid will be pushed through the line and the level will not go down in the MC. As our loquacious one has pointed out, first cover the area under and around the MC then remove the banjo bolt. Hold your finger on the opening and squeeze the lever quickly until you can feel pressure on your finger. When that happens, while keeping pressure on the lever, remove your finger and let whatever fluid that has managed to get into the pump out. Hopefully the pump will now be primed. If not do it again until it is. This is where reverse bleeding can be done by squirting a little fluid into the banjo opening. Keep your finger over the hole until you can insert and start the banjo bolt. Getting the lever pump primed is absolutely necessary before you can bleed the system. When the pump is working and the banjo has been tightened you can begin bleeding the rest of the system. To do that all that is necessary is to attach a hose to the bleeder valve so there is a few inches or more of hose going up before it turns down to a receptacle like a bottle. Open the bleeder and pump the lever quickly. Leave the bleeder open until all the air is pushed out. You will see fluid being pumped through the hose. If you stop pumping you will see there is still fluid sitting at the bleeder valve up to where the hose turns down. As long as the hose fits tightly on the bleeder, no air can get back into the bleeder valve because of the fluid that is on top of it. The MC must not be pumped dry or you will have to start over again. The MC lid should be put back on the reservoir while pumping or the relief valve will squirt fluid out. Watch the level in the reservoir's window to make sure it does not get pumped dry. Pumping quickly is important because you have to overcome gravity which will try to make any air in the system float up. Once you think all air has been removed, close the bleeder valve and remove the hose and you should be done. Not counting having to prime the pump, this bleeding job should take no more than about 10 minutes.

Good chance you will change your tune on that if you ever get a decent Healthcare bill passed.