Donvito

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I used a combination of techniques. Special thanks to Steve Crossley who is the master of aluminum polishing. If you haven't seen his bike, check it out: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/vbpicgallery.php?do=big&p=6174 And thanks to Mbrood for his nubbin insertion tool without which I probably would have cut them off and glued them in.

Just got back from a ride and the cruise control worked flawlessly after servicing the clutch switch. I cleaned the contacts, stretched the spring and added some DG lubricant. Thanks to all for your advice.

I'm working on the clutch switch now. I'll let you know if that solves the problem.

Thanks Jim. I was looking for a way to get to the control module without removing the fairing.

I discovered, when my cruise stops working and I stop and shift to neutral then shift up to operating speed, the cruise control always works. Also, it always works when I first start out for a ride. But, at some point while riding, it will stop working. It may be after I engage it for the first time or after engaging it several times. Has anyone experienced a similar situation and what was the fix. Thanks.

After about 200 miles on the E3 plugs, the bike started running poorly.Lagging on acceleration and running on 3 cylinders at times. Switched to NGK Iridium plugs and running good again. The bike also ran hotter with the E3's although I don't understand that. Returning the E3's for a refund.

If I press the resume switch it stays lit. Nothing happens. If I press set, the set light doesn't come on and nothing happens.

When it's working properly, the resume light will come on when the cruise is disengaged. Sometimes I can resume and sometimes I can't. The resume light will remain lit until I turn off the unit. Sometimes, when I turn it back on, I'm able to set the cruise and sometimes nothing happens, the set light doesn't come on. According to the manual, I can test at the connector at the cruise control unit. Is there a way to get to it without removing the fairing?

Thanks for the info Peder. Very often, while reading a thread, you don't find out what solved the problem. There are no posts explaining what the cause and solution were. The person who initiated the thread is just satisfied that his bike is fixed and doesn't think to post the resolution.

Thanks but as I said " when I push out on the clutch lever it doesn't help". So, I think I need another type of test.

I've read every post regarding cruise control problems but I need some advice. My cruise works intermittently. When it works, it works perfectly. Maintains speed, adjust the throttle for hills, disengages via the cancel switch, clutch, front and rear brakes and deceleration. When it doesn't work, the power light is lit but the set switch doesn't operate, No light turns on and the speed doesn't set. If I turn it off and on sometimes it will operate. Sometimes I have to do it several times but eventually it works. All I've done so far is clean the contacts under the power button. I don't want to remove the fairing if I don't have to. I know I can have a faulty switch and the most likely culprit is the clutch so I'll start there although when I push out on the clutch lever it doesn't help. I have the Yamaha Service Manual and I see the circuit diagram but I'm not good at reading electrical schematics. Can I test the various switches at the plug under the power unit? Can someone explain that process? Also, if I have to remove the fairing I want to replace the throttle cables. I found 4 of them on boats.net but I read there is a fifth. Can someone tell me the part number or where it's located on the part diagrams for an 87 VR? Thanks.

I'm looking for 4 of the black caps that cover the allen bolts which secure the cb and CLASS frame/housing to the fairing. Boats.net wants $3.74 per plus shipping. The part number is 90338-07175-00. Has anyone found a cheaper alternative? Also, looking for brake bleed screw caps without purchasing the bleed screw.

For my 87 VR they're E3.36. Here's the list: http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/catalog.php

That makes sense. The only test I can find in the manual is to test the output voltage. Is that what you meant or is the test elsewhere? If not, can you explain how to test the pressure sensor system to make sure it's not sucking air? Does it matter which cylinder the vacuum hose is attached to? If not, I can switch the vacuum hose to #1 and put the plug on #2 to see what happens.

I did the valve adjustment but the backfire was happening prior to the adjustment also.

Here are the plugs I pulled out on Saturday after about 500 miles. Three look the same and one is darker. Unfortunately, I can't identify which one came from where. However, this is before I adjusted the fuel/air mixture.

I just installed them on Saturday so don't have much experience but the bike runs great. I don't usually run up to 6 or 7000 rpms but I wanted to see how they did and it ran fine even with the original ignition wires. I'm more of a cruiser and don't run that high but damn it's fast up in that range. The only negative I've noticed is a slight hesitation if I rev it in neutral but it doesn't happen while riding and I'm not prone to sitting in neutral and revving it. Don't know the longevity but I'd be interested in hearing from members using iridium plugs. Also, they take a 5/8" socket and don't make the mistake I did and install all 4 plugs before realizing I had to remove the little cap on the tip of the plug. Had to pull them out and remove the caps.

Checked the sliders and they are all moving. I also let the bike idle for about 5 minutes, turned it off and immediately pulled #2 plug and it was dry. Still searching for a vacuum leak but can't locate it. I guess I'll pull the vacuum hose from #2 and plug the opening and see what happens. At least that should tell me if the hose is the problem.

You got me thinking so I put it back together and ran it to confirm that #2 cylinder is running. It is. That is the way the plug came out of the bike. I didn't clean it.

I have been trying to eliminate a backfire chirp for the past several months. Originally, it would do it at idle but, now, it only happens when I decelerate and coast. If I slightly engage the choke, it stops, so, this led me to believe I am dealing with a too lean condition in one of the cylinders causing the unburned fuel to ignite in the exhaust pipe. I was able to isolate the problem to #2 cylinder and eliminated the backfire by adjusting the air/fuel mixture screw. It decreased as I backed out the screw and stopped at 5 1/2 turns. I have done a lot of maintenance over the past couple of months and these are the items related to the engine: changed to E3 spark plugs adjusted the valves synced the carbs tried to order diaphragms but they are out of stock so did the Plasti Dip treatment did the Sea Foam treatment searched for vacuum leaks using WD 40 So, at this point, I believe the problem is either in the "coasting enrichment valve assembly" or a vacuum leak. To get to the "coasting enrichment assembly" I have to pull the carbs and the bike is running too good at this time to do that. So, if it is a vacuum leak somewhere, how do I find it? I know #2 carb has a vacuum hose running from the vacuum port below the carb to a plastic enclosure but I don't see any problems with it. Is there a way to test it or should I just replace it if available. What harm am I doing by running with #2 carb at 5 1/2 turns out other than decreased gas mileage? Should I leave it like that or live with the backfire? I am attaching pictures of #2 carb including the spark plug after a ride and letting it idle for about 5 minutes.

What's the best method to check for leaks in the vacuum tubes? I'm aware of the vacuum tube attached to the vacuum port under #2 carb, are there others and where are they?

Yes, I meant the air/fuel mixture screw. The idle adjustment screw is set at 1000.

I know I read you can check for vacuum leaks by spraying something and seeing if the rpm's increase but I don't remember what to spray.

Unfortunately, I don't have a truck stop nearby. Do you know what type of acid they use? I assume it is diluted but to what percentage? I have some muriatic acid for my pool, I wonder what that would do?

I recall reading a post a while back where someone said it could be from a too rich or too lean condition as well as other causes such as exhaust leaks. I thought I had eliminated the "too rich" possibility because it stopped when I enriched the mixture via the choke. So, I assume it's the "coasting enrichment circuit" but I thought I may be able to compensate by enriching the idle mixture for now until I do the carbs again. I have isolated the problem to number 2 cylinder and I improved the backfiring by backing off on the idle adjustment screw but it is now at 5 1/2 turns and the backfiring is just about gone. I'm just not sure if that is too high an amount of turns and if it is OK to leave it at that setting?