Donvito

I apologize if I misunderstood you. I thought your "good luck" was meant sarcastically. I belong to this site to obtain help and to give help when I can. I know you've given out lots of good advice in the past. No hard feelings?

Thanks but I already have one that works when it wants to. Hopefully, I'll be able to repair mine and not destroy it.

I intend to attempt to repair my controller tomorrow. I would just like to have a plan B if repairs don't go well.

If anyone has an extra CLASS controller for an 87 VR I would be interested in purchasing. Please PM. Thanks.

Thank you all for your help. I found what I need.

When I input 1987 at Colorite, the only option for make is Honda. Am I missing something?

I'm looking for a paint match for my 87 VR. The colors are Alluvial Gold/ Silky Gold. Can't find a match on line. Has anyone found matching paint in a spray can?

My left side lower fairing has had most of the mounting tabs broken. For some reason, the right side is fine. Here is how I replaced them: Items Needed : JB Weld Original Cold-Weld Formula, modeling clay (the kind that needs to be headed to solidify) a Dremel. JB Weld is easy to work with, strong, bonds to plastic, is inexpensive and readily available. I have included some pictures of the process. 1. Make a mold of the tab on the opposite side of the one you are replacing using clay. Be sure to push the clay into the screw hole so your finished tab will have a hole in it. 2. Mix and stir the JB Weld. I use a disposable plastic bathroom cup. 3. Pour the JB into the mold. Try to make sure the mold is level. 4. Let set for about 24 hours. The instructions say 15-24 hours. 5. Remove the tab from the clay. Use a Dremel to clean up any rough edges or to thin it. Also, make sure the hole is large enough for the screw, if not, adjust with the Dremel. 6. Fit the new tab onto the fairing. Use the Dremel to shape it so it will attach flush and the hole is properly located. 7. Put clay on both sides of the tab where it is to attach to the fairing. Make a channel with the clay to hold the JB in place. 8. Make a small batch of JB and pour it into the channel. You can let it sit for about 15 minutes so it thickens. WARNING: Cover any parts of the bike that you do not want JB on. Once it sets up on something it is impossible to remove except by sanding so be neat. 9. Push the tab onto the fairing. Insert the screw to keep it in place. 10. Let it set for 24 hours, remove the screw and use the Dremel to do the final shaping and smoothing. You can paint it or leave it grey. I have made several tabs using JB Weld and I believe it makes a stronger tab than the original tabs. Depending on the location of the tab, I have also used duct tape instead of clay to make the channel and to attach the tab to the fairing while it sets. If you have any questions you can PM me.

Thanks to all for the advice and offers. I found out my brother has experience with repairing electronics and has the tools. He has offered to do it for me.

Thanks to all for the advice. You've convinced me that soldering is the way to go. Just afraid of destroying an irreplaceable component.

I have absolutely no confidence in my ability to solder my CLASS circuit board. Has anyone tried any cold methods of repair, conductive epoxy, conductive pens, etc?

I recently replaced the spark plug wires on my 87 VR. I'm not familiar with MK1's so I don't know if this will work with them. I purchased a set of wires from a vendor on ebay and was happy with the process, product and price. Here it is: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=390654433334 I am including some pictures of the process. 1. Remove the top cover, side covers and radiator side covers. 2. Disconnect the battery and remove it. If, like me, you have an old style battery you will have to remove the spill hose and the level sensor. 3. Remove the battery box. There are two bolts at the bottom and one at the top front. You can spray some penetrating oil before removing them but mine came out easy. Also, there is a component that is attached to the positive terminal connected to the battery box on the let side and this just pulls off. This will give you access to the rear cylinder coils. 4. Unscrew the wire nut that holds the wire to the coil. Be careful because there is a rubber grommet. Mine came out with the wire but look for it, you'll need to put it on the new wire. 5. There is a covering over the wire. Mine was attached with electrical tape. Trim the tape from both ends of the wire. 6. Work the wire back and forth inside the covering. If it doesn't slide easily, you can spray some lubricant inside the covering. I used silicone spray. 7. Pull the wire out of the covering from the spark plug side. Hold the covering at the top while you are doing this. You want it to remain in place. 8. Apply some dielectric grease to the outside of the new wire then thread it through the cover until it is in far enough to get access to it at the coil. 9. Slide the wire nut and the grommet onto the wire and insert into the coil. Tighten the nut, attach the wire to the spark plug and the first one is done. Repeat for the other rear coil. 11. When replacing the battery box be sure to thread the spill hose through the opening and reattach the component at the positive terminal to the tabs on the box. Don't ask why I'm reminding you. Also, re-install the battery sensor. 12. The front cylinder wires are easy. The coils are accessible under the fairing above the radiator. You can use the same method or remove the wire and cover and just thread it back through where it was. I don't know how to add captions or move the pictures or I would. If someone can advise me, I will edit this. Also, if there are correct names for the items I referred to, I don't mind if you tell me.

The set I purchase came with two relays and two fuse holders and wires. The location of the original horn wires made the installation of two simple. But I didn't know I could get away with one. I only knew that using the original horn wires on the new horns wouldn't power both of them. I ordered a roll of Rescue Tape to protect the relays so thanks to those who suggested that.

The set I purchased come with the boots. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=261269235287 I looked on the parts diagram and I don't see a part number for the piece that attaches the wire to the coil. Should I use the old ones or are they available elsewhere? Should I replace them or reuse the old ones?

I have the original seals in my forks. I have the fork tube protectors mounted to the top of the forks. Also, years ago someone recommended spraying some silicone spray down into the top of the rubber boot so I do that also. You just cut the straw diagonally so it's pointy and it slips under the rubber boot and spray a small amount of silicone. Worked for me.

Thanks to all, I decided to replace them. The set on ebay was only $40 with shipping and includes NGK resister caps. Still wondering about the use of dielectric grease. Do I use it on the wire plugged into the coil or only on the insulation? Should it be used on the spark plug where it attaches to the wire cap? Inquiring minds want to know. Thanks.

The spark plug wires on my 87 are original with about 49K miles. The bike is running fine but I'm wondering of I should change the wires? I'm planning on some long rides in the coming months and I don't know if a wire can suddenly go bad. Can I expect improved performance or gas mileage from replacing them? I've read that only the insulation can go bad so can I re-insulate the wires? If I do replace them, there is a set on ebay, http://www.ebay.com/itm/390644407359 and I would like to hear from someone who's used them. They has lots of positive feedback. Also, I'm reading conflicting opinions on dielectric grease. Someone recommended using it on the spark plug wires contacts to the coils and spark plugs a while ago. What are the correct applications for it?

Now why didn't I think of that. Thanks. I will.

I just installed two relays for my new horns and now I'm wondering if I mounted them in a good place. Should I leave them here or move them? Should I cover them somehow to protect them and what can I use? Here is a picture of one of the relays and a picture of my bike because it's finally back together after about 2 months of working on her. By the way, if anyone is looking for relays, Amazon has a deal for two relays, fuse holders and relay plugs for $7.64. Here's the link: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Absolute-In-line-Holder-RLS125-Automotive/dp/B00C0SATHE/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1376603413&sr=8-6&keywords=relays]Amazon.com: Absolute USA 2 In-line ATC Fuse Holder, 2 Relay RLS125 12 VCD Automotive Relay SPDT 30/40A and 2 SRS105 12 VDC 5-Pin Relay Socket: Car Electronics@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41XrfcALiUL.@@AMEPARAM@@41XrfcALiUL[/ame]

These pictures are from the front left side of my fairing. Is this the actuator cable adjustment or is it something else? I can reach under and check the free play without removing the fairing on my 87 VR.

Can you tell me the name or part number?

I need one of the clips that attaches the lower fairing to the main fairing on an 87 VR. It's about 1" X 5/8". Tried searching for it but couldn't locate it on the schematics. If someone has a part number or a part name that would help. Here's a picture.

I converted my bike years ago so I can use a spin on filter. It's Fram 3950 or other compatible brands. I'm currently using a Motorcraft FL-403. The last car made that uses this model filter was a 1993 model. I'm wondering when do filter manufacturers phase out old products? Should I stock up? Is there an expiration date for oil filters?

Twenty years ago, I belonged to the Venture Touring Society and we went through the same discussions. I disconnected mine when I got progressive springs and I never missed it.

If anyone is like me and is missing some brake bleed screw covers I found a cheap alternative. Home Depot has an item called screw protectors. The correct size is 5/16". They are green but I guess they can be painted. I have chrome caliper covers on my bike so they are hidden anyway. I'm still looking or the little black covers for the cb and CLASS housing. Checked Ace, Home Depot and on line and no luck. Only source seems to be Yamaha. If anyone's found a cheap alternative let me know or if you want to sell 4 of them let me know.