Donvito

Hi, it's been a while. Still riding my 87 VR. Planning to retire soon. Hope everyone is well. Thanks.

From what I recall, there are 6 nuts inside the trunk, three on each side. The picture shows three inside. Then, underneath there is one nut on each side with a rubber cover over it that just pulls off. I would remove the seat because there are some wires under it that are attached to the trunk for the passenger remote and the interior light. There is also a cable to the backrest to which you would have to remove also. That is all I can recall.

I use to have a lot of play in my side stand and my bike was leaning so far over that lifting it straight was an effort. Tightening the bolt didn't help. In fact, over tightening the original bolt could weaken it and cause it to break. Then I did the fix described by Dingy and no more play and the bike leans just right. No welding required, just drilling. Best to do it before the bolt breaks and damages the mounting tabs. Here's the link to the fix: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?48342-Side-stand-bolt-solution&highlight=kickstand+drill+bolt

I replaced mine about 2 years ago. I went with a 3.5 ton Rheem for my 2100 sq ft house. Also, bought the 15 SEER unit because of the energy rebate and lower cost to operate. We're both in Florida so these units get a work out. After installing the new unit, my power costs dropped significantly. Here are the ratings from Consumer Reports. PM me if you have any questions. http://static2.consumerreportscdn.org/content/dam/cro/news_articles/appliances/CRO_Home_AC_Chart_05-14.jpg

Have you tried closing the petcock before or immediately after turning it off? Then, try starting it with it closed, and if it doesn't start, open it and try again. Could be the float in the carb is allowing too much gas in. Does the level in the gas tank matter? Also, check the enrichment circuit. (choke) It may be stuck open. I think there are adjustment screws on the carbs for this. Make sure the cable is sliding freely also and lubricate it too. This is all I can think of maybe someone else will chime in.

1987 VR purchased new in Lodi, NJ, by me in 1989 Ser. No. JYA1NL007HA011294 Manufactured 10/86 Mileage 54,793 Color, Alluvial Gold, Silky Gold

There are a lot of connectors behind the headlight, don't have to remove the fairing. Headlight comes out pretty easy. Seat is held on by two bolts. I always take off the top cover first then Just take the lids off the side bags, then 3 screws in the black plastic covers. Remove that and you will see two bolts, I think they're 12 mm, one on each side. Remove them and slide the seat towards the back and it will come off. There's a piece in front of the seat that slides under a part of the frame to secure it so that's why you have to slide it back. There is actually a hole in the black plastic cover to access the seat bolts but I find it easier to remove the covers. When you're messing with the electrical system, it's a good idea to disconnect the battery too. I bought a connector cleaning kit and it works pretty good to clean them without disassembling the plugs. You have to unplug them of course. Here's the one I bought: Made by IPA, it's called a Diamond Grip Terminal Cleaner. http://www.ipatools.com/products/index.php/ipa-8040.html FYI: you can add your model and year beneath your name. Makes it easier for people to know which bike you have without looking up your profile.

Compared to my 87, your voltage looks low. Although, you can get a more accurate reading with a meter. I disconnected my anti dive solenoids years ago and, with the progressive springs, it rides better. They are easy to unplug, just follow the wires and there are two plugs just under the front fairing. Also, you may want to check your wire connectors, especially, the 3 white wire connector on the upper left just where the left side cover meets the seat. Mine was pretty corroded and my voltage improved after cleaning my connectors.

It has two wires with bullet connectors.

I bought another fuel pump because mine was starting to fail but since I cleaned the points it's been working perfectly. Even so, I would like to carry a spare with me that I can plug in if needed. I would like to know if the original wire connector is available to purchase so I can plug in the new pump. I'd prefer not to replace all the connectors if I don't have to. I need the piece in the 2nd picture. Any help is appreciated.

Just found $47 in my rear pouch. Don't tell my wife.

I didn't want to remove the air cleaner so I removed mine from underneath. Although, your 84 may have the YICS chamber also which may be in the way. I removed the lower side fairings, the side radiator covers and the plastic covers above the front cylinder. Then, using a flashlight and a mirror, I was able to get a ratchet with a #3 JIS Philips head bit on the screws and break them loose after spraying them with penetrating oil. Some people have removed it from above and some, like me, from below. Either way, it can be a PITA. Here are some other posts about removing it: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?89381-Removing-TCI-HELP&highlight=relocate+tci http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?42139-TCI-location-relocation http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?78022-Removing-TCI-computer http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?63371-TCI-Removal

If I recall, I removed the TCI on my 87 by removing the lower fairings and the plastic piece over the front cylinder head. Then, you need a JIS #2 or 3, I don't recall, bit, and a 1/4" drive ratchet and extension. I was able to reach under and remove the screw from each end of the TCI. Just make sure the bit fits securely in the screws to avoid stripping them. If you don't plan on putting it back in the same location, some people saw off the plastic tabs from the TCI to remove it. I sawed them off after I removed it and put it on the top of my air box to keep it dryer and more accessible. I used velcro to secure it there. Let me know if you need anything clarified. I didn't remove the battery box or air cleaner.

I don't know you but I always enjoy your wisdom and videos. You are always there for everyone. Best wishes for a speedy and complete recovery.

On the first gen, someone came up with a great way to replace the rubber on the rear footrest using straws. When I removed the rubber from mine to clean them, I used the idea. I can't find the post now but it's pretty simple. First, cut a regular, plastic drinking straw in about 4 or 6 inch pieces. Then, slice them lenghthwise completely from one end to the other. Put one end of the straw over the rubber nipple and the other end through the hole. Then, pull the straw through the hole. It should tighten up and pull the nipple through. I'm not familiar with the 2nd gens, but if they are similar, this should work.