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Black Owl

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Everything posted by Black Owl

  1. Same thing. You folks just spell funny... :rotfl:Depending on the condition of the circlip and spring, you could probably get by reusing them. Mamma Yamma recommends using new circlips, but when I did my seals I just used the old ones. I replaced the spring clips because mine were heavily corroded. No problem with the questions. That's how we learn....... Better to ask now rather than having to ask how to correct a screw up later.
  2. The rod actually has a torque bit on the end of it. Not sure of the size, but probably an 18 or 19 mm. It is used to hold the damper rod to remove (and install) the retainer bold on the bottom of the fork. You can make a tool to secure the damper rod using a 1 inch piece of flat iron filed down to fit inside the torque head of the damper. Or, as I do, use a piece of half inch pipe with a rubber cap to apply pressure to the top of the damper rod. As for the other tool, the 90 degree box end....... haven't got a clue...... BTW: You willo need a 17mm allan wreench to remove the end cap. Sears will usually have them in stock if you don't already own one. A less expensive way to go is to buy a set of allan head sockets off E-bay. I know there is at least one set for sale right now which includes the 17mm allen. Do an E-bay search for Virago 1100 and then scan the items for sale. This is where I bought a set two weeks ago. The set also comes with three ratchets. Much cheaper than going to Sears if you have a couple of days to wait. Hope this helps. Ooops, almost forgot. There is a spring clip in the lower fork tube to keep the seal in place. Neither the Circlip nor the spring clip are included with the fork seal set and must be ordered seperately. The best price I have found for the fork seals is Flatout Motorsport http://www.flatoutmotorcycles.com/catalog.asp
  3. Can't answer your question about putting rape over the circlip groove. Personally, I have never done it. As for the tool. That is to seat the seals. You can accomplish the same thing using a section of PCV pipe. Just make sure the end is cut flat otherwise you can end up setting the seal crooked. Also, don't forget to back off the upper pinch bolt before you try taking out the end caps. Makes it muuuuuuuuch easier. The task looks more daunting than it really is.
  4. Kuryakin has several different styles of off set highway pegs that will fit the 1st Gen. I believe the case guards on the 1st Gen at 7/8 inch. I would definitely recommend the off set pegs, and I think Kuryakin sells a long horn off set. The off set is more versatile giving you many positions for the pegs.
  5. Before you go to the troule of switching out the fuse block, I would recommend finding out why the old block is melting. Sounds like you may have a high resistance draw somewhere that is generting enough heat to melt the fuse block. If you do, Simply changing out the block may not correct the problem. Just my .02 cents worth on this one.
  6. Thank goodness. Thought I was the only one who was confused.......
  7. In the words of Artie Johnson, Veeeeery interesting.
  8. Or you can replace the stud with a 10mm ball stud. Even easier. You may be able to find them at a Topper shop. If not, I still have a couple left from the last bulk order I submitted. If you need one or two, send me a PM.
  9. LOL....... Yah, maybe a couple or three here are familiar with that model. Depending on condition and price, you probably won't find a better touring bike out there. Of course the 2nd geners with argue that point, but we just let then rant on...... Give us a bit more info on the scoot and feel free to ask any questions you want. More than enough experience here to answer any and all questions.
  10. 2 funny Read the title to this thread and immediately thought...... Hey, they have definately come to the right place if they need help starting problem. :rotfl:
  11. Don't have a pic handy, but the super brace is approximately 2 inches thick.
  12. The one I have came off the 86. And yes, it does have the dimmer switch. Foolish me, I thunk they was all the same...
  13. Jack, I have a dash assembly, minus the volt meter, which I can send you to either test your wiring, or use until you can get your's fixed. At least this way it will get you up and running for your upcoming trip. If interested, shoot me a PM with your address and I'll get it shipped out to you. Russell
  14. Is the solenoid valve for the front shock opening? You may have a cold solder crack and no signal being sent to the solenoid. The readout will show pressure building in the chamber, but if the solenoid valve is not opening, the air is not being routed to the shock. Also, you will not receive an error message.
  15. For the 1st Genners who have either the illuminated trunk reflector or the illuminated trunk guard.......... if you are looking to replace the incandescent lamps with LED lamps, Superbright has the 5 LED (194) wedge base lamps. They are selling for $2.99 each. I just replaced the incandescent lamps in my trunk guard with the 5 LED Red lamps and I am now getting twice the amount of light. Will be replacing the lamps in the righted trunk bar next. The LED lamps can be ordered at www.superbrightleds.com Well worth the nominal investment IMHO.
  16. Mine are custom made. I seen some on a scoot every now and then, and I believe you can buy them from some of the leather suppliers.
  17. A while ago, I mentioned that I had a contact that could make fork sleeves. You know, those protective covers that fit over the shock plungers to protect them from stones, bugs, etc and keep the crude from tearing up the fork seals. Well, he never came through for me. So, the other day as said, "What the heck. It can't be that difficult." So, after a bit of trial and error, here is what I came up with. They are made from Naugahyde with foam backing and four snaps. They fit around the fork plunger and a loose enough to allow the plunger to slide through . Total cost, for parts and material (labor don't count) was only $4.50 per set.
  18. Great site. Thanks for sharing. BTW: Where in Winnipeg are you located? I grew up in the North End and my most of my family is still there.
  19. Congrats to you on a job well done.
  20. Don, We lost another member a few months after Buckaroo. Can't for the life of me remember his name. But if I'm not mistaken he was a member of this site and the Venturers........ I also believe he lived out east. Maybe someone else will remember his name.
  21. Todd, If you place an order with them, you are also given the option of having them make a donation to the VentureRiders. I believe they donate $1.00 to a fund set up for the VentureRiders against which we can draw to make purchases for the group benefit. Also, making the donation does not cost the buyer anything. This is a great company to deal with. Easy ordering, fantastic customer service, and decent prices.
  22. For those of you who may not yet be on Good Enough's mail list. They have now set up a Bargain Basement. Some decent prices if folks are looking for a new jacket, gloves, etc.........
  23. I am also running the Kriss headlight modulator. Have been for seeralo years now, and man has the price gone up sine I put mine in. They currently have the signle lamp modulator in their close out section for $59.00....... That one will fork for you........
  24. U*sed to make cut out exhaust for cars back in the early 60's. Same principle here. Basically what it is giving you is a straight pipe with the cut out open. Closed you are running a normal muffler.
  25. Not to worry Condor. I just sent you 9 instead of 10 ball studs.....
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