LilBeaver
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Everything posted by LilBeaver
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:crackup: Yup, I set that one up pretty well...
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I have done rocker rust repairs on many (2 and 3 year) lease returns (some were Ford Taurus). Granted this was in Michigan, but regardless, there is absolutely no reason that a car that may have been sold in Fall of 2001 (that is 8 years) might have completely rusted out rocker panels. The plastic trip on cars like that and the metal lip on the inside of the rocker collect moisture, mud and salt. The plastic traps moisture between the trip and the body just as well as a cup hold water.
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:thumbsup2: Now... What is under that car cover?
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+1 to replacing the battery. If you do not know how old it is and plan on taking any long rides that you might be far away from anything and need/want to turn it off (ie. for fuel or sight seeing) then it would be (in my opinion) wise to go ahead and replace it. These things are a bear to run/push it up to speed and pop the clutch (don't ask how I figured this one out)
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The only way the dealer would be liable is if you could prove that there was some to prove that the rust or weak parts were a result from the car being knowingly repaired by the dealer (or under the dealer's ownership when repaired) when the frame or other parts were to damaged to be safely repaired and should have been totaled. I don't know that it is called the lemon law, but there is some protection for the buyer (at least in Illinois, Michigan and Texas) for consumers against used car dealers. Dealers are supposed to inspect their cars and have the structure certified BEFORE they sell the car. If it was just the rocker panels that were rusted then you have nothing to worry about (nor, in my opinion, is there any structural integrity issues with the car). Cars that have plastic trim along the bottom with little lips that come up trap dirt, salt and moisture in there and rot the panels out. I don't know why manufactures claim the rocker panels are a good lift point (I have seen a lot of mini-vans that way too) because those things are so weak it is uddery ridiculous; even right out of the factory. New rocker panels to be cut and welded in place (assuming there is enough metal left to have something to weld to) are really cheap and pretty easy to put in. The body shop I used to work at would buy them at some aftermarket source for the Ford Tarus for somewhere around 30 or 40 bucks for each side and a few hours for the install (plus paint, of course). Sorry to hear about your troubles
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hehe
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The "Talk" button on the passenger arm rest works the same way the 'talk' button does for the driver; that is, it opens the mic for CB communication. All the passenger has to do to communicate (verbally anyways) with the driver is start yapping... Or whatever it may be The volume control on the passenger arm rest only controls the volume of the passenger's headset speakers. Which means they can turn you down/off but can still talk if they choose to.
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I've been thinking about this quite a bit and it seems that maybe a reasonable place for the inlet for the gas would be near the air vent under the ignition cover. That way all of the plumbing could be routed out of sight as well as any drilling would be reasonably protected from the elements. As for where to mount the spare tank - that is a good question... Keep us posted, I am interested to see what you come up with I like the idea of refilling the main tank and not messing with any of the existing fuel lines and such and there ought to be plenty of room for an inline fuel filter somewhere along the way.
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The intercom is always live, unless you have the mic-mutes installed (which I do not, so I cannot help you there). It is plug in and talk; that simple. You just turn the IC volume up and talk and it is just an open line between driver and passenger. The talk button is for the CB. I have an 01 but I recently replaced my radio with one that was 're manufactured' and has a date stamp of 2007. I heard absolutely no excess noise when I plugged in due to the live mic; but on my new unit I do have a little background noise that is a little bit annoying. So depending on your unit, you may want to look into the mic-mutes too... but that can be done down the road Summary: 01 radio = No wind noise what-so-ever; with IC set somewhere between 10 and 15 07 radio = some noise, I don't know if it is wind or not but volume set in same range. Your mileage may vary, and others will weigh in too I'm sure.
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+1 for wally world for the replacement
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That J&M is what I use. I put one in my helmet and the helmet that whoever rides with me (and fits in an XL) uses... I've logged over 5,000 miles with my g/f using these and they worked GREAT. I found mine for ~$75 each, including shipping. NOTE: I only use them for communication, and I tried the radio feature through it a handful of times, just to check to make sure things were working so I cannot comment on the music aspect of the audio quality but voice come through loud and clear. It was well worth the money I spent on them (well... sometimes I wish I didn't have them so I didn't have to hear her talk so much... but that is a different story ) I decided to go with the slightly more expensive ones based on reviews and the thought of 'if I buy the cheap ones and am disappointing, I'd either have to deal with the frustration of crappy headsets or spend money on the slightly more expensive ones anyway - so I fronted the money for the slightly more just so I didn't get stuck in that predicament). I've also been cought in the rain a few times and the headsets still work fine.
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Sounds like a lot of work ... I'll just stick to the simple method of 1) set cruise 2) stand up 3) let-'er-rip This is also an effective method of dealing with tailgaters...
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There is a fuse box in the cowling near your right foot and also behind the left colored panel under the seat (in front of the left passenger floorboard). The 30A Main fuse is behind the panel that the passenger floorboard bolts into. And to answer your question, I would say the absolute worst case is that you have to replace the battery... I got mine (interstate) from sam's club (AGM Type) for ~$50-60 (I dont' remember exactly) After the charger reads fully charge (or you allow it to charge for the appropriate time) do a terminal voltage check then a test with some load (ie hook it up to your bike and turn the key on then read the voltage) and see what the difference is. A good battery will not drop below ~10V or so. If that all checks out, press the good 'ol start button and go for a descent ride There is some danger in trying to run a vehicle on a bad battery and I won't go into that unless you (or someone) wants more details... Good luck!! (I'm sure it will be fine though)
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Huh, wierd... I've been told that mine is not necessarily appropriate in all places, but I still don't understand that one; its a friggen animal. For a while my hair was real short, soft and about the same color as just about every single beaver picture I had seen. In one of my classes, a long while ago, we were supposed to come up with an animal that described us so my friends started calling me that and it sort of stuck... The 'little' part was added on because I power lifted for a while; I'm short, but was (at one point) reasonably built... So it was one of those 'ironic' or w.e. ones... Whatever
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I don't think so... my 01 has one... I think (Maybe I don't know what the pillow top is)
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DO IT!! At least post some pictures... I would really like to add a few gauges on mine but I don't want them on the handle bars... I don't like the way that looks... And I'm a loser that still listens to cassettes every once and a while. I've been trying to come up with a way to do it and have not had anything that I've liked yet... Okay thread hijacking over.
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Forrest: I don't know how soon you want this, but I will be up in that area come December and would be happy to bring it back for you (especially if the shipping cost is unreasonable). - Rick
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Stebel Nautilus Horn Install
LilBeaver replied to SilvrT's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Oh yea, I meant to answer you question in my post... That is what the hose is for (re routing the air inlet) but I do not have the hose on mine and it still works fine (as I have read many others do too). The little plastic black piece though says it needs to be on there for the horn to function... -
Haha... Did you order one of their 'family style' dinners by accident? Actually, it has been a while since I've been up there, but I presume they still do that.
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Stebel Nautilus Horn Install
LilBeaver replied to SilvrT's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Cool; Great idea... I might move mine to get it away from the exhaust and give me a place for a compressor for a second set of air horns... -
Cool! Thanks for sharing
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you could do it if you really wanted to :mo money: radio controller ~200 used CB unit ~300 Used Jerry-rig ptt button ~ few bucks (Since I presume the 'trigger' button located on the left hand grip for you is a flash the lights button, if it is there at all) + Shipping But that would be if you want the 'stock' venture setup. I know J&M Makes them, and there are a few other companies that have some real nice CB setups or bike to bike intercoms (as others mentioned). Two-Tone white has shows some good options I found some others (CB) just recently, if I can find those links I'll post them here. ( I was looking to fit my 82 Wing with one too).
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That was very nice of you! Sometimes things like this are real easy and some times they are a pain in the ***. Most of the time it is the second one; at least to get a real nice finish on. Simply based on the material... It is always nice to get good feedback on one's work and I'm sure that made their day! (I know I always liked when someone commented on what they thought of the final paint job:thumbsup2:)
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You said that the brakes feel 'soft' and that you 'had to pump in order for them to grab' How much have you ridden after you installed these pads? With fresh pads, even if you rough up the surface with sand paper it will take some time to 'break them in'. If you mean that you squeeze the brake lever and the lever feels squisy, spongy, or soft and by pumping it it gets more firm then nevermind (it is an air in the lines or a leak somewhere issue, or something else that has been discussed). If you mean that the brakes don't perform like they did before then I would say take it easy, but give it a few more miles to get them broken in.
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Yes there are two horns. I suppose the first thing I would check would be the horn wires - trace them all the way out and look for any bare spots and especially the ground points. And yes that is odd behavior... I'm sure someone else will chime in with more helpful information.