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LilBeaver

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Everything posted by LilBeaver

  1. LilBeaver
    I guess if you don't mind, that'll work for me I've drilled stuff out before, but never needed to use a tap... What kind of tools should I bring?
  2. LilBeaver
    Earl: Thanks a lot! I may take you up on this - I'll poke around here a little bit to see if I can find what I need first and I'll let you know. Thanks again, - Rick
  3. LilBeaver
    Alrighty... Sounds like I need to find a tap, some reverse threaded drill bits, and a sharp punch. Rick: The head is right up against the washer, there is no way I could get anything in between them. Thanks folks! Hopefully one of these methods will work...
  4. LilBeaver
    I was hoping to avoid this, as I would like to be able to re-use that bolt hole to secure the tank when reinstalled...
  5. LilBeaver
    Thanks for the suggestions! The head of the screw doesn't seem to be strong enough for this... This is a great idea; although I don't have access to a welder... hmmm... I'll try this next. Yup - this was actually the second kind I tried. The first was the kind that you drill into the bolt and then beat in the tool and try to back it out. For these the head was just too soft. They just spun it and didn't grab Thanks everyone... If anyone else has any other thoughts, I'm still working on this...
  6. LilBeaver
    So I got my new fuel sending unit and went to install it and found that when I was trying to take my tank off, like I have done many times already, a head of one of the hex head bolt/screw that goes in the front of the tank has been rounded out. I don't know how it happend, when I put it back together last time I didn't notice any slop or anything but when I went to loosen it up, I just spun round and round. I have tried: 1) vice grips and pliers - nothing will grab onto that round head. 2) Easy-out/screw extractors (a few different types including the kind you drill into the screw and then back out and the kind that is supposed to grab onto the head and back it out) none worked - the head of the screw just didn't grab like it should. 3) take grinder and cut slots into the head suitable for a flat head screwdriver - did not work; as I try to use the screw driver to back the bolt out it just breaks the head up even more. I had thought about cutting the head of the bolt off completely and then try to maneuver the tank support out and over it (then I could get the bolt out because I would be able to grip it), but I don't think there is enough play in the tank to do that (as it would have to go ~1 inch to one side and it is just too tight of a fit). I am just plumb out of ideas - any thoughts would be appreciated.
  7. LilBeaver
    Lower left is Oil Level, lower right is coolant temp warning. Both of them are red. They only come on when you crank the motor (not when you turn the key to the on position). Like others have said: Check your oil level and some have experienced this light coming on under hard acceleration due to the location of the sensor
  8. LilBeaver
    My local H-D shop sells them for ~40... Just in case someone doesn't have one they are looking to get rid of you might be able to save some $$$ on shipping if you check yours. Good luck!
  9. LilBeaver
    Yea... I didn't think we had any here, but I hit something slick this morning . Although in a few days the highs are back up into the 80s
  10. LilBeaver
    Having a hard time getting the work out in time is a MUCH better situation to be in than not having the work coming in. I helped run my family's small business and unfortunately we had the opposite problem... Glad your business is going strong. Like I said when we talked, no hurry
  11. LilBeaver
    If one pays attention to what the engine sounds like while you run certain speeds and what gear one is in that is usually quite effective. I know that I hardly look down at the speedometer when I'm on familiar roads or the expressway especially when there is no traffic around... Other obvious things are GPS or just pace yourself with other traffic...
  12. LilBeaver

    Brake Shims?

    LilBeaver replied to pick's topic in Watering Hole

    I am pretty sure they are supposed to help by distributing the applied force of the calipers evenly across the back side of the calipers. This also should cut down on some of the noise that one may hear. Now I've installed my pads with and without those goofy things (that run ~$20 a piece; if I remember correctly) and I did not notice a difference... It is the same part for all of the bikes (99-2010) and somewhere in between 2001 and 2009 they changed the part number. Hope this helps
  13. LilBeaver
    Dr_bar has/had one like this on his Valkyrie. It seemed to work pretty well and if I recall correctly he was quite happy with it. Keep us posted on what you do
  14. LilBeaver
    Huh, that stinks man - I guess the folks I have dealt with have a different attitude... Well, I'm willing to bet that there are enough people around that if you wanted something we could help you out Not to mention that I am a frequent visitor to Vancouver...
  15. LilBeaver
    I would certainly believe that you guys get the shaft on stuff like that. It may not hurt to ask at your local store to see if they could get it in... See about shipping to you from an American store or worst case, find a US store that is just across the border from you - do the buy online/pick-up in-store thing to guarantee that you'll find it when you get there, then make the drive. There is a sears in Bellingham, WA which is ~55 miles south of Vancouver...
  16. LilBeaver
  17. LilBeaver
    I know it is atypical for this to be true, but my local dealer actually has rather good deals on tires. E3s for example go for ~60-80 front, $120 rear. The venoms are a little more than that (~+10 or so each). But it may be worth while for you to give your local folks a call, just in case.
  18. LilBeaver
    Will Do Yes, the US sears has the jacks online. The sears by me carries both jacks in store, but do not keep them out on the floor. My buddy said that there is such a low demand for them, they just don't bother taking up the floor space. Also, if it is in the catalog and the store does not typically carry it, the store can order it for you to be delivered in store without a delivery charge. You may have to pay upfront, but you get out of the delivery charge that way.
  19. LilBeaver
    +1 to this. And you may want to do a voltage test at the battery to verify the charging system is okay. When my rectifier went out all sorts of crazy electrical stuff started happening. Just some more thoughts Good luck!
  20. LilBeaver
    I just got it yesterday (a buddy of mine that works at sears owed me a favor ) But I lifted the venture twice with it yesterday. First time to make sure the jack was working properly and to get a feel for how it all works, and the second time to actually examine the front wheel and do a few other things throughout the bike. My initial impressions are very good. It weighs about 40 lbs, has a very low profile but will still lift to about 19". The wheels actually roll when the bike is up (almost effortlessly I might add). It jacks up quickly and smoothly and lets down the same. It has a built in mechanical safety mechanism that locks at 3 (I think) different heights, automatically. I looked at the professional series (the yellow one pictured), the regular craftsman one (red one), two Harbor Freight jacks and one from tractor supply. I decided on the professional series Craftsman jack based on the construction; it appeared to me that it was the best built (in the price range anyways) with the most versatility (weight, range of lifting heights, maneuverability, Quality of wheels to contribute to loaded maneuverability, and a few other things; including personal experience with a few other brands that failed). If you are interested, I'd be happy to follow up with you in a few weeks after I get some more use out of it. I'll be using it a few more times on my venture as well as a few other bikes. So far I am pleased with it and glad that I did not go with one of the other ones. I am not willing to endorse it just yet, until I get some more experience with it. Hope that helps!
  21. LilBeaver
    I think I will (replace bearings & seals/whatever they are called) since the process seems pretty straight forward and the parts seem pretty inexpensive (not to mention a failed bearing at 70 mph could be an adventure I would like to skip ). I've done this dozens of times on cars and trucks (I know it is a little different), but never on a bike. These things On top of all of this, I have some time off comin' up... Bearings and possibly a caliper rebuild... Thanks guys
  22. LilBeaver
    ) Don't worry, we'll get there some day too... I already have chronic knee problems and cartilage problems with my back but I found out a long time ago that life is too short to waste any time so I am trying to do what I can while I still can. I hope that I can be well enough to keep riding for years to come, but I'll take it a day at a time and try not to catch up to you too fast . Oh yea, one last thing: Just kidding; Can't we just ? Ben: Sorry for the
  23. LilBeaver
    OH YEA; slightly off topic, make sure you take a real close look at the sidewalls all the way around both tires and also in the tread - looking for any sign of cracking/dry rot. If those bad boys are, in fact, OEM they have been on there for a while with not much use which isn't good on the rubber.
  24. LilBeaver
    Welcome welcome! Glad to see another youngin' on here. (althought truthfully, I don't think anyone here cares) This may seem like a dumb question, but it may help isolate and identify the noise you are hearing. Does the noise change depending on the road surface you are on? (ie. concrete, rough asphalt, smooth asphalt, etc.) If it does, then it is probably a safe bet that it is, in fact, tire noise. Also, what kind of tires are on it? (OEM was bridgestone or Dunlop 404s) My experience with the Dunlops (on other bikes) is that they are pretty quiet; but, I have no experience with the bridgestones. I am currently on my 2nd set of Avon Venoms, and they are nice and quiet. Hopefully someone that had had the bridgestones will chime in here
  25. LilBeaver
    Ben: I know exactly what you are talking about with the looks (24 here). I love every single one of them; just smile and wave back at them . What gets me even funnier looks is when I ride with my friends that have sport bikes (and can keep up, no problem - except for the CBR F4i - that sucka is quick)... It is difficult to say without knowing more about the RSV. Has he had it since new? complete maintenance records? Reason for trade? etc. BUT it really does come down to what YOU want because it is/will be YOUR bike. Like others have said 51k is NOTHING to worry about. There is a member or two on here that have recently rolled over 200k (if I recall correctly) and MANY folks with many more than 51k. If you are looking for a longer touring machine the RSV is no doubt the way to go (maybe my opinion is a little biased ). But, if you are uncomfortable with the 51k then decline and keep your eye out for one with the colors and mileage that you like. Possibly one that is still under warranty (5 year, unlimited mileage). Good luck with whatever you decide
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