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LilBeaver

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Everything posted by LilBeaver

  1. Now there's an idea!! :crackup: Better keep that one quiet!! You guys crack me up.
  2. Haha, well... I did notice that on my GW I don't have the problem that I do on my RSV because there is so much air-space between me and my GF on my RSV... Darn this 'having so much space' thing. I guess what I need to do is talk her into riding close to me instead of lounging back on the passenger back-rest... I have seen ones on e-bay for 75-100 bucks. I was concerned about the positioning of it though. I did consider getting it then just bending the bracket to my liking -but I figured I'd give this a shot first. I recently tried out somone's DiamondR backrest and could clearly see that the adjustability would allow me to move it around quite a-bit. Thanks for the idea though!
  3. I am interested in getting a Driver's backrest as I do have some lower back problems from time to time and find that occasionally I have to pull over and lay out on the ground it hurts so bad. I know what causes my back pain and try to avoid it the best I can and usually I do okay. I am thinking, after talking to a few people that use them and reading a LOT about them, that this would be a wise addition for me. So, if you have one that you are not going to use anymore; for example if you are selling your bike and don't mind taking the backrest you have on there off to sell it to me that would be terrific! My preference would be for a DiamondR or Utopia backrest (or one that is comparable that will not requiring drilling into the bike for installation and has some adjustable). It would be a bounus if it is of the pillow-top type, but I won't be too picky. I have an 01 RSV. If you have one that you would be willing to sell me, let me know what you've got, condition (a picture would be fine too) and what you want for it and I am sure we can agree to a reasonable price. Thanks in advance!
  4. It IS strange that the battery did this and is only 7 months old. BUT depending on how often you ride, what kinds of rides they are, and of course the battery itself it can certainly go bad that quickly. For example, if you take many quick trips with a lot of idling and low RPMs and that is the typical riding that you do, this is very hard on batteries and can lead to an early demise. It is also possible that your battery was not very good to begin with and it just took that long to kill itself. But there is also the possibility that there is something else that caused the battery to fail, albeit other options would likely produce other symptoms that you would be able to detect. Regardless, hopefully they will honor your warranty Well, you did do a type of load test on your battery that it CLEARLY failed. That is you tested the voltage on your battery with the key off, then you turned the key to the ACC position and ON position and tested the voltage (that is YOU applied a load to the battery and tested the voltage). You clearly failed because the terminal voltage dipped so much. What the 'typical' vehicle load test does (if you hook it up to a load testing machine) is simulate the power drawn by cranking the motor and measure the differences in terminal voltage. You failed without applying the extra draw from the motor which IS (as everyone suggested) a clear indicator that your battery is certainly not functioning properly. In my opinion it never hurts to take a look at the things you looked at occasionally. The fact that everything looked okay is a good sign, but this gave you the opportunity to verify the proper (or apparently proper) functioning of the components you examined and proper routing of wiring. Preventative maintenance is something that in my opinion is very rarely a bad thing. Anyhoot, Good luck
  5. Yikes, I had considered doing something like that for my bike(s) on the back of my F-250 BUT when I saw that the racks are rated for only a few hundred lbs not to mention the class IV hitch has a max tongue weight of 1,000 to 1,200 lbs (Something like that) I decided that I wasn't going to risk dropping the scoot or monkeying something up on the truck (not to mention the $$$ they want for those dumb things)... Anyways - Back to the topic
  6. It could be a few things... When I switched out my radio (replaced my original 01 unit with a re-manufactured one dated 07) I picked up something similar. A possible source of what is being heard is a result of electrical interference (loosely speaking anyways), or the radio picking up and amplifying an induced current from the fields put out by the ignition system (and the rest of the bike's electrical system) that results ins a constant 'noise' output to the headset. One thing to check is to make sure that the audio cables running from the back of the bike to the front of the bike are as far away from and perpendicular to the ignition cables (spark plug wires) at any point of which they cross. It is possible that mic mutes may help this but I do not know for sure what they do in particular so you may want to do some searching on that too. This is just a possible cause for the static/noise that is heard through the speakers, I do not guarantee that this IS what you are hearing or not, but based on your description and my experience with my radio - I am making an assumption that what you have called a 'hiss' is what I hear as well. Good luck friend, hopefully someone else will chime in with more information too Oh yea, Mine is only apparent when I am idling at a light or going very slowly.... But my hearing is pretty bad too...
  7. In my opinion, your best bet is to follow the directions posted on the battery or with the battery. Most batteries will give you a suggested charge amperage range and time for each setting. Also they ought to say how to charge it at various measured voltages. For example, I believe that my Interstate battery came with a tag that said 'check voltage if above 12.6V, no charge necessary; if between 10.4v and 12.6v then...' etc. I don't have mine with me and I am out of town, but the instructions that come with it ought to outline the procedures in such a fashion. Some folks in here will say to not use a trickle charger and use a 'regular' battery charger some will say that it doesn't matter; In my opinion, the manufacture is the one that knows the most about their own batteries (at least the reputable brands) so they ought to know and if they say to charge at 1A for 6-10 hours, then that is what I'll do. etc. Anyways, hope this helps...
  8. You could get a big enough trailer and just haul a spare bike...
  9. Well... If this is the case, I'll throw in that my 01 has rubber on both sides... but
  10. My brother has been using a beta version of it for about a year now and loves it. He does do a lot of gaming and computer tweaking and such so it behooved him to get out of vista (at least that is what he tells me). In terms of installing an OS, you do want to make sure you have everything backed up. A flash drive (stick drive, jump drive, whatever you want to call it) is a fine way to go for a temporary backup. And wally-world has some high capacity ones for dirt cheap. If the installation goes like it is intended to it is always very easy to do - so I wouldn't worry about trying the install yourself. If you can read/follow simple instructions, you can install the OS. Personally, I am fine with the version of Vista-64 I am running now and do not plan spending the coin on Windows 7.
  11. One could route it out the side of the vehicle to avoid the sensors all together.
  12. The 'cool' wave is when you stand up and flail both arms (only one for beginners - so you can maintain control of your bike) in the air honk your horn and flash your lights What I would consider the 'nerdy' wave is when you use your left arm to the lower left with (what I typically see) two fingers held out.
  13. Yikes, I am glad you were not hurt! Sorry to hear about the bike.
  14. +1 to this. My local Honda dealer has them for $125 + tax. I was there today picking up a bike for a friend and checked.
  15. I believe there are a few members that are making them or have had some made. Shoot JerryW a message and see if he has anymore. I got mine from him and I believe he had a few more.
  16. By the way, the Venom is in no way shape or form discontinued.
  17. I believe the Cobra is a radial where the Venom-x is a bias Tire. Avon's website has a Cobra, Venom-R and Venom-X listed http://www.avon-tyres.co.uk/sites/default/files/Cobra.pdf It looks like the Venom-R is only available in a monster size... Here is the sheet on the Venom-X http://www.avon-tyres.co.uk/sites/default/files/specs/en/venom.pdf I am sure someone else has tried both and has better info than me though.
  18. Looks like a great system! Although I don't see myself dropping that kind of coin on it though. (By the way that is a Chevy:stickpoke:)
  19. Good to hear. If I were you, I would still go ahead and test the stator via the resistance test. You can find a service manual on here somewhere that will give you the specs for the resistances you ought to read. If you have not yet gone through and cleaned the connectors and such that would be in order. The headlight fuse may have popped when you jumped it with your car, since you had no battery in your bike ().It is also likely that other fuses blew too. That is unless your headlight was out before you tried to jump it... As for the bike dying when you put it in gear - is your side-stand down when you do that? If you side-stand is up and it dies when you put it in gear how does it die? Is it an immediate cut out like someone flipped the engine cut off switch? or does it lurch forward and chug a little bit, then die? If it is an immediate cut out then you may want to check your side-stand switch (or put the side-stand up and try again if you have been doing this with it down). Anyways, I don't know that much about the 1st gens but these are the few things I would go ahead and check first. Hopefully someone else that knows a bit more about them can jump in and help out. There is a search function on the tool bar that may be of some help to you - also, if you have not found it yet there is a dedicated 1st gen technical area that has all sorts of good info. Good luck!!
  20. I'm guessing there is some combination of things you can do to turn it on or off. For example to disable the 'automatic' door locking mechanism you do something similar to the following: 1) turn the key to the on position but do not start the vehicle. 2) Press the unlock button (on the driver's door) 3 times in succession 3) turn the key one click back and press the unlock button three times in succession 4) turn the key back to the ON position. If you were successful the car will beep once to indicate you diabled it or twice to indicate that you enabled it. On my F-250 you can disable the seat belt warnings with a similar process that includes turning the key on and off a few times, the unlock button and cycling the lights. So, if you have one, check your owner's manual to see if there is a process outlined to do what you want it to do.
  21. Yea, NO KIDDING!
  22. I know there are only a handful of members within a few hundred miles of Lubbock, but I was by the local dealer today and they have a Victory Semi out front. Stopped in to see what it was all about and they are having a demo day tomorrow. Inside the truck I saw their touring machine, a street-glide rip off and a few others. But figured I'd throw that out there just in case anyone is interested. It is located at Family Power Sports off of the West Loop 289 http://www.expedia.com/pub/agent.dll?qscr=mcst&strt1=4202+W+Loop+289&city1=Lubbock&stnm1=TX&zipc1=79407&cnty1=4Family PowerSports Lubbock 4202 W. Loop 289 Lubbock TX 79407 Phone: 806.793.2551
  23. :yikes::yikes: (Just kidding ) Have a great drive, be safe and all that good stuff! Gdspeed, - Rick M.
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