LilBeaver
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Everything posted by LilBeaver
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It could be a few things... When I switched out my radio (replaced my original 01 unit with a re-manufactured one dated 07) I picked up something similar. A possible source of what is being heard is a result of electrical interference (loosely speaking anyways), or the radio picking up and amplifying an induced current from the fields put out by the ignition system (and the rest of the bike's electrical system) that results ins a constant 'noise' output to the headset. One thing to check is to make sure that the audio cables running from the back of the bike to the front of the bike are as far away from and perpendicular to the ignition cables (spark plug wires) at any point of which they cross. It is possible that mic mutes may help this but I do not know for sure what they do in particular so you may want to do some searching on that too. This is just a possible cause for the static/noise that is heard through the speakers, I do not guarantee that this IS what you are hearing or not, but based on your description and my experience with my radio - I am making an assumption that what you have called a 'hiss' is what I hear as well. Good luck friend, hopefully someone else will chime in with more information too Oh yea, Mine is only apparent when I am idling at a light or going very slowly.... But my hearing is pretty bad too...
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Prepping a pre-charged battery
LilBeaver replied to 1BigDog's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
In my opinion, your best bet is to follow the directions posted on the battery or with the battery. Most batteries will give you a suggested charge amperage range and time for each setting. Also they ought to say how to charge it at various measured voltages. For example, I believe that my Interstate battery came with a tag that said 'check voltage if above 12.6V, no charge necessary; if between 10.4v and 12.6v then...' etc. I don't have mine with me and I am out of town, but the instructions that come with it ought to outline the procedures in such a fashion. Some folks in here will say to not use a trickle charger and use a 'regular' battery charger some will say that it doesn't matter; In my opinion, the manufacture is the one that knows the most about their own batteries (at least the reputable brands) so they ought to know and if they say to charge at 1A for 6-10 hours, then that is what I'll do. etc. Anyways, hope this helps... -
You could get a big enough trailer and just haul a spare bike...
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Well... If this is the case, I'll throw in that my 01 has rubber on both sides... but
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My brother has been using a beta version of it for about a year now and loves it. He does do a lot of gaming and computer tweaking and such so it behooved him to get out of vista (at least that is what he tells me). In terms of installing an OS, you do want to make sure you have everything backed up. A flash drive (stick drive, jump drive, whatever you want to call it) is a fine way to go for a temporary backup. And wally-world has some high capacity ones for dirt cheap. If the installation goes like it is intended to it is always very easy to do - so I wouldn't worry about trying the install yourself. If you can read/follow simple instructions, you can install the OS. Personally, I am fine with the version of Vista-64 I am running now and do not plan spending the coin on Windows 7.
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One could route it out the side of the vehicle to avoid the sensors all together.
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The 'cool' wave is when you stand up and flail both arms (only one for beginners - so you can maintain control of your bike) in the air honk your horn and flash your lights What I would consider the 'nerdy' wave is when you use your left arm to the lower left with (what I typically see) two fingers held out.
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Yikes, I am glad you were not hurt! Sorry to hear about the bike.
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+1 to this. My local Honda dealer has them for $125 + tax. I was there today picking up a bike for a friend and checked.
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I believe there are a few members that are making them or have had some made. Shoot JerryW a message and see if he has anymore. I got mine from him and I believe he had a few more.
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By the way, the Venom is in no way shape or form discontinued.
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I believe the Cobra is a radial where the Venom-x is a bias Tire. Avon's website has a Cobra, Venom-R and Venom-X listed http://www.avon-tyres.co.uk/sites/default/files/Cobra.pdf It looks like the Venom-R is only available in a monster size... Here is the sheet on the Venom-X http://www.avon-tyres.co.uk/sites/default/files/specs/en/venom.pdf I am sure someone else has tried both and has better info than me though.
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Looks like a great system! Although I don't see myself dropping that kind of coin on it though. (By the way that is a Chevy:stickpoke:)
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Good to hear. If I were you, I would still go ahead and test the stator via the resistance test. You can find a service manual on here somewhere that will give you the specs for the resistances you ought to read. If you have not yet gone through and cleaned the connectors and such that would be in order. The headlight fuse may have popped when you jumped it with your car, since you had no battery in your bike ().It is also likely that other fuses blew too. That is unless your headlight was out before you tried to jump it... As for the bike dying when you put it in gear - is your side-stand down when you do that? If you side-stand is up and it dies when you put it in gear how does it die? Is it an immediate cut out like someone flipped the engine cut off switch? or does it lurch forward and chug a little bit, then die? If it is an immediate cut out then you may want to check your side-stand switch (or put the side-stand up and try again if you have been doing this with it down). Anyways, I don't know that much about the 1st gens but these are the few things I would go ahead and check first. Hopefully someone else that knows a bit more about them can jump in and help out. There is a search function on the tool bar that may be of some help to you - also, if you have not found it yet there is a dedicated 1st gen technical area that has all sorts of good info. Good luck!!
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I'm guessing there is some combination of things you can do to turn it on or off. For example to disable the 'automatic' door locking mechanism you do something similar to the following: 1) turn the key to the on position but do not start the vehicle. 2) Press the unlock button (on the driver's door) 3 times in succession 3) turn the key one click back and press the unlock button three times in succession 4) turn the key back to the ON position. If you were successful the car will beep once to indicate you diabled it or twice to indicate that you enabled it. On my F-250 you can disable the seat belt warnings with a similar process that includes turning the key on and off a few times, the unlock button and cycling the lights. So, if you have one, check your owner's manual to see if there is a process outlined to do what you want it to do.
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Yea, NO KIDDING!
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I know there are only a handful of members within a few hundred miles of Lubbock, but I was by the local dealer today and they have a Victory Semi out front. Stopped in to see what it was all about and they are having a demo day tomorrow. Inside the truck I saw their touring machine, a street-glide rip off and a few others. But figured I'd throw that out there just in case anyone is interested. It is located at Family Power Sports off of the West Loop 289 http://www.expedia.com/pub/agent.dll?qscr=mcst&strt1=4202+W+Loop+289&city1=Lubbock&stnm1=TX&zipc1=79407&cnty1=4Family PowerSports Lubbock 4202 W. Loop 289 Lubbock TX 79407 Phone: 806.793.2551
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:yikes::yikes: (Just kidding ) Have a great drive, be safe and all that good stuff! Gdspeed, - Rick M.
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USPS has tubes of this nature for a great price...
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So far I haven't been kicked out and I moved here from Marquette, MI... but shhhhh... Great pictures! The more I hear and see things about this 'three sisters' ride the more I am looking forward to getting down there and going on it myself Thanks for sharing!
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Good info, thanks Goose (You too Ponch)
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I went with an Interstate battery that I picked up at my local Sam's club for ~60 bucks. It is an AGM; same specs as the OEM battery. It also has a 1 year warranty (I think). Thanks for the heads up though Ruffy
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Heck no - I want to be able to get the bolt out in the future... There are a number of reasons to pull the tank. HAHA - Nope, not this time... Which is handy because the plastic parts around there are quite pricey!
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Just wanted to close this one out - as too many times I get through a thread and see no concluding remarks in terms of a resolution or not. What ended up working was: Drilling a reasonably centered pilot hole with the smallest left handed drill bit I could find. Then I stepped up the size until Ponch took over and ground the head off, upped the size one last time and backed the screw/bolt right out. As soon as I got home I replaced the remaining silly bolt on the other side with a regular hex-head bolt.
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Pulled in my garage just after 10:00pm. Just wanted to say thanks to all that came (and ponch for helping me out with that silly bolt) and especially Jerry for hosting this. Great to meet everyone in person I have attached a few pictures... This is why I was late