LilBeaver

Wes: I am in no way shape or form addressing you directly but I think that there are some implications that have been suggested that I think would be in the best interest of anyone following along or in a similar situation, looking for advice, etc, ought to be aware of. DISCLAMER: Below I will discuss some of the legal legality issues here I am not agreeing, supporting, taking sides, pointing fingers, assigning blame, etc to either the cc companies that participate in the aforementioned behavior nor customers of the companies themselves. I would like to simply address some of the relevant legality factors in a situation like this. Also, I am not affiliated in any way, shape or form with any lending, credit, banking or related institution that by making this statement, will be affected in any way (positively or negatively) by any actions, decisions, thoughts that are a result from any influence that the following statement may have on one’s behavior in any related situation. SO, my intention in the following statement is to be as objective as possible and reserve my opinions for private conversation. If terms are stated, in a contract between two parties, and both parties agree to the terms, then each party is legally obligated to abide by those terms. If either party deviates from the terms of the contract, then and only then would one be able to go to the courts for a resolution. By "the courts" I mean the judicial system, a higher authority including but not limited to the attorneys that specialize in contract law, consumer protection divisions of the attorney general's office, etcetera. In the case of a credit card (CC), the agreement between the CC company and the user is accepted when the user signs the back of their card (which is why CC are not legally valid unless signed by the authorized user). Thusly if one of the terms in the contract (fine print or big bold letters) was in some form that the "interest rate and/or minimum payments are subject to change as per the discretion of the cc company" or of some form of this statement is made in the terms of the CC user agreement then the CC company, as the issuer of the card, is within the legal confines of the contract then there is nothing that any of the aforementioned attorney or 'legal authorities' (including but not limited to the attorney general's office) can do to 'force' the CC company to reverse their decision on a change that they were legally authorized by the aforementioned contract to do. If there is any deviation from the agreed terms then, and only then can a 'legal authority' step in and mandate that the terms are upheld or the wrongdoing is corrected with any appropriate reparations as necessary. So why go into all of this? I think that it is important to be aware of the limitations of the particular agencies before one would seek for their intervention or advice. The consumer protection division may not be able to step in and attempt to rectify the situation directly but what they certainly CAN (and probably will) do, is assist the individual or business by providing information regarding your rights as party involved with contract and your options in dealing with a particular situation. Also, do not forget in a situation like this, BOTH of the parties involved have leverage. The CC company of course has the ability to change interest rates and adjust 'required' payments as they see fit so long as they are within the confines of the contract. Motivation for doing so can be of many persuasions but bottom line they want the money that is owed to them (at least what they were actually put out by an individual charging something to the CC). The consumer has leverage over the CC company in the fact that they are the ones that controls what the CC company gets paid, if they get paid at all. For example, in an extreme case of someone filing Chapter 7 bankruptcy which can, in some cases, remove all personal liability of the debt owed thereby effectively sticking the CC company with the balance owed to them, thusly they would not get paid. So, in short, the CC company wants to get some of what they are owed and the consumer would like to be relieved of the debt. This is where the opportunity to open a negotiation ensues. There are many channels to go through to begin this type of negotiation with the CC company and there is no guarantee that they will be willing to negotiate but it is reasonable to attempt that as an option before the situation gets any worse. I would encourage anyone in a situation like this to seek the appropriate and qualified legal and/or financial council that will assist him or her in resolving his or her situation. Now, off for a quick

It is kind of like what happened with the silverwing... The silverwing used to be a real motorcycle... From this: http://farm1.static.flickr.com/42/85447116_01a9d5be8a.jpg?v=0 To this: http://www.bestmotorcyclepictures.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/2010-honda-silverwing-gt-600b.jpg

(THIS IS WRONG (Good call ATLM): There is just the one fuse for the Audio system in the lower right cowling.) If the audio control does not come on at all it is likely (in my opinion) a problem with either the control itself, the radio amp itself, the connection between the two, or a grounding issue (as Shamue suggested). Or that backup fuse (located behind the left 'battery cover' in that fuse box) What you may be able to do is give the dealer (that you trust) a call and maybe you could work something out where you could discuss with a service guy what you have done and what the problem is and maybe they could order the parts and do the replacement while you wait. It could be worth a shot. Good luck!

Just because the fuse is still good does not mean that something did not get shorted out... What else have you tried so far? 1) Check, clean, grease, reconnect connections under passenger seat? 2) Check, clean, grease, reconnect connections inside front fairing? 3) Check, clean, reconnect the white harness connection(s) with the amp inside the fairing? 4) Check input to speakers etc. Does the radio turn on (indicated by the handlebar mounted controls)? can you change the volume setting on the control pod and you don't get audio? Does the CB work? does the handlebar mounted control appear to function properly (Cycles through all audio modes, 'select' menu options', light up, etc)? (just thinking out loud here of what kind of information could be helpful here) Let us know and we can try to help you out of course, as a last resort, you could also take take advantage of the fantastic warranty if you don't want to tear into the fairing (It is really not that bad - but setting the precedent with the dealer right away illustrating there IS a problem is not a bad thing).

Well - if you could do a large portion of what is owed and increase payments or something like that, they may still be able to cut the amount and ya'll can settle on something that can be dealt with over time. Or if you can settle on a lump sum payment it may be worth while to take out a loan (where you KNOW you have a fixed interest rate), pay off the CC and be done with them. Lots of options out there, it may not be easy, but it can be done. Good luck!

Depending on how much you owe and how much of it is due to the accrued interest; if you have the cash it is often possible to negotiate a full payment for much less than what it is owed. The way this works is the total amount of interest that has accrued over time is a huge portion of the amount owed and THAT is the portion that can be negotiated. Don't be afraid to call back and try again with someone else! Good luck!

Now there is a good deal

Sorry to hear about the bike. Glad you are okay!! Hope the insurance co. comes through with a fair check for you too.

what if you went to the hardware store and got a large nut that would screw onto the threads - protecting them AND giving you something that isn't the threads to hold on to. With a drill press you will still need to have some way of holding on to it... Albeit it is considerably easier to get the thing lined up and centered...

Although going through with a drill press would be a lot of fun - could you maintain the orientation that you had originally (wit the threads in the vice) but would it be possible for you to just shift where you hold the plug in the vice so that you don't crush the threads? That way you could still get your desired centering method to work and you would not crush the threads... Just a thought for you.

Here is a terrific idea!

Holy smokes - Thank gd (or whoever you want to thank) you are able to tell us what happened (in the sense that you are still alive and aware of what is going on). It is good that SOMEONE in that room had the sense to call it off when some d.a. didn't know what they were doing. Sorry to hear that this happened to you, but hopefully you can get this resolved in an efficient manor. Sounds like you have plenty of witnesses, some of which have the medical sense to know what is going on. Hope you have a speedy recovery too!! Good luck friend!

Yee-haw. I sure am looking forward to getting my set! I really appreciate all the hard work going into these; I know it is time consuming and takes a LOT of patience too. Thanks for the all you guys are doing!

Okay - if it is, in fact, some sort of rattle, that is definitely not 'normal' and not the 'whine'. My thoughts would be that it could be lifter noise/the valve train or timing chain... But since it is under warranty it would be worth having them take a listen/look at it. The valves would obviously not be covered under the warranty (we have some capable members here that can help you out with that) but it could be some other things as well. Have you changed the oil since you've gotten it (and did that make a difference in the noise)? If one uses too light of oil you may get some chatter from the valve train... Just a thought. Good call on finding a new dealer. The fact of the matter is your bike is an 06, so the earliest it would have left the showroom would have been late 05 - so you should be good through, at least, late 2010. Hopefully they'll know what they are talking about.

Yikes! Just 100 bucks (+ s/h ~$20) 'Slightly used' ?

It could be the whine that we all complain about, but it is hard to diagnose sounds via the internet... Out of curiosity, did you buy your bike from some folks in Lubbock, TX? There is/was a 06 midnight for sale here (Lubbock) for a while... Looked like a nice bike, the owner didn't know anything about it though - they told me it had ABS and a 1 year 12,000 mile warranty... Just in case you didn't know, you have a 5 year unlimited mileage warranty, so you should be covered for some time still - just get with your local dealership and make sure they transfer it over to you Depending on how bad your whine is (if that is what you were describing) some folks have had some luck getting the dealer to replace the clutch basket, under warranty. For some this quieted it down, for some there was no difference, and for some it made it worse. Good luck friend! Oh yea and :2TEAL: And also, put some pictures of your bike up too!! We all like pictures and ice cream...

Good luck!

+1 to this. I have a 78 GS750. I know that the majority of the GS series bikes are setup pretty close to the same (at least in that year region) so if you cannot/do not find anyone else to help you out and you want me to take some pictures or whatever, just let me know; I'll do what I can. Good luck!

Very nice!

Yee-haw. Be safe, I hope that dog hasn't made too much of a mess yet!

If you just cleaned your carbs (I assume 'the old fashioned way' implies that you took them apart and cleaned them out that way) then what are you expecting to get out of running this stuff (other than having perpetually clean carbs - which is certainly a good thing)? - Just a curious mind wanting to know...

Looks like you got yourself a great place! Garage and all

Good advice already so I'll try not to repeat anything. Since you said that your longest trip was a recent 150 mile run, something you may want to try to do between now and your big trip is to take some more longer rides, getting progressively longer to see how you feel about it. For example make your next one 200 miles, 250 or 300. Then do it again in a few days, or the following weekend or whatever. And after a few of those you'll get a feel for how it is to drive a longer distance in a day. Make sure you eat healthy days leading up to the long ride and the morning of your ride. I like to keep some energy bars, granola bars, or something that is reasonably healthy (as well as water) so that when I make my stops every 100-150 miles for a 10 minute stretch (regardless of if I am tired or not) I can have a little something to snack on to make sure that my body is doing okay. Something to pay attention to is that if you start to feel light headed or weak or whatever, it is too late - STOP immediately and get something to eat, freshen up and relax a little. No sense in taking a risk at driving not at the peak of your ability. I don't think twice about riding a 600 mile day. Here is how I typically try to break it up (especially if I'm not on a rigid time table) 0 Miles - Depart (with a full tank) 100-150 miles later, (100-150 miles traveled so far) Stop for breakfast and fuel 100-150 miles later, (200-300 miles traveled so far) stop for fuel and munch a little 100-150 miles later, (300-450 miles traveled so far) stop for fuel and lunch (or the next meal) 100-150 miles later (400-500 miles traveled so far): fuel, munch, 100-150 (500-650 miles traveled so far) Etc. I find that if I can stick to this type of routing it keeps me moving at a reasonable pace and enjoying the ride with limited fatigue I do like to take a look at a map and get a rough idea of what will be around at each loosely planned stop to make sure that I get fuel where needed etc. Anyhoot, do what you are comfortable with and if you can avoid the highways that is the way to travel. But sometimes it is just nice to just 'get there'. Have a great trip!

http://h20180.www2.hp.com/apps/Lookup?h_lang=en&h_cc=us&cc=us&h_page=hpcom&lang=en&h_client=S-A-R163-1&h_pagetype=s-002&h_query=dv2500&submit=Go+%BB This is a link to the list of the dv2500 series notebooks. If you can post the nVidia card you have (or specific model of notebook - found on the bottom of the computer on the HP label - we can be of more assistance). I am guessing that it is an GeForce 8400M - but you could verify that via device manager as previously explained. You say you are just out of warranty - If you are within a few weeks or so, I'd contact HP right away... You never know, they might pull through for you - especially if the GPU overheated and your processor has not yet, because that is a manufacture defect that they have repaired a number of the computers under (according to HP.com - under the dv2500 information) - some of which were out of warranty. Anyways, good luck keep us posted/informed of what you have questions about or whatever. (Don't waste your money with the 'geek squad')