LilBeaver
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Everything posted by LilBeaver
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I do what I can Well, actually this is one of the machines at a national lab... My workstation and servers at home are a bit more up to date than this puppy...
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I run Scientific Linux on one of the main boxes used for my physics research... Yup, this high dollar piece of hardware has Pentium 3 933 and a whopping 256 mb of ram!
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Is that legal in Texas? To NOT order them, that is.
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That is what you get for thinking!
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I might just have to do that.
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Huh, how about that. I had no idea they sold those things there. I thought they were a salvage shop...
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Very tentative at this point but looking good. I will PM you with details when things get firmed up or time gets closer.
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Just do me a favor and get all of that rain taken care of before 29/Oct, okay?
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Part shark has it listed for $66.12 P/N 4XY-81960-00-00 Or 64.61 through these guys: http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-4XY-81960-00-00.html
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What about having a bad R/R on your bike, while riding, and it fries the electronics on your bike. That would be a good time too.
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Did you also repeat the test with a lead on the negative terminal, then connecting to 1, 2 and 3? Are you having a problem with you bike? I am a little confused based on your PM with the reported values. Something else to try is to start the bike, set your meter to "AC Voltage" mode and probe the + a - battery leads. Any sign of AC voltage across those leads and your rectifier is toast. Any voltage reading above 14.4V, and your regulator is toast. Bench testing the R/R the way you did is mostly inconclusive (unless something is conclusively out of spec) because the specs for a standard unit are unknown. Also, a static test of this unit can only probe some of the internal circuitry.
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If memory serves me correctly you DO need to remove the plastic thing on the right side of the 'neck' area near the ignition to get that ground bolt.
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Brian: Thanks for posting this! Very cool! you do have a tendency to post real interesting stuff, keep it up! Brian covered this pretty well here -- to clarify a little more it is far more [cost] efficient to recover the helium from the 'mining' process (as mentioned by Tx2Sturgis) BUT there are some places [national labs, mostly] that have liquefiers that DO extract the He from the atmosphere. One of the two particle accelerators that I work at buys their He from Amarillo and trucks it up to Vancouver (where the lab is at), the other one has their own liquefier. Both methods have their pluses and minuses but I'll save the discussion for a different thread. But yes, we nerds do love us some Helium! It is QUITE useful in lots of areas of research. Talk about a COOL topic... (boils at ~4.5K)
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That or take your pants off. After all, who is going to beat a guy that doesn't have pants on? By the way Rick, props to you for holding Nina back and not letting her whoop that guy...
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Did someone hear something? *crickets chirp* Hmmm, I guess not. :moon: For what it is worth, I did say: :rasberry: -
Well, the chances of having a new one be bad is pretty slim [provided by NEW you mean it was brand new from the factory], BUT you are getting the code. Further testing of the fuel sending unit is really pretty straight forward; PGunn mentioned this already. A preliminary test of the fuel sending unit can be completed without removing the tank. All you need to do is take off the black 'ignition cover' thing that surrounds where you put your key in near the fuel filler cap. The wire harness on the left [clutch side] of the tank underneath that cover. This wire harness has 3 wires in it. One of them is the ground, one is for the fuel 'level' and one is for the thermistor [what triggers the fuel light and fuel trip meter]. These ARE on separate circuits. As indicated, the fuel level circuit will have various resistances for each level that the fuel registers at (it is not a potentiometer [variable resistor] but each level has a distinct resistance that will change as the float moves inside the tank). The thermistor [low fuel light & fuel trip meter] is not as complicated. It is a simple 'continuity' or 'no continuity' type reading. The thermistor and ground wires should be the green/white and black, respectively. If that all checks out okay [again, like PGunny said] then you can replace the low fuel light bulb with the original bulb to see if the problem goes away or put a resistor of the equivalent spec, in line [thereby defeating the power savings of the LED] and see if that does it. After close inspection of the electrical diagram, it does appear that the thermistor runs in series through the low fuel light bulb -- but I question that accuracy since if something happened to that bulb the trip meter would then not be function properly -- at any rate, your problem is pretty much one of a few things, as identified: 1) Fuel sending unit/thermistor 2) LED bulb throwing off the system Sorry, I guess I should not have responded last night when I was so tired as I did not really think through the issue as carefully as I should have before writing it out. Hope this is helpful.
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This sounds like a fault code to me folks. Check the service manual Page 8-82. Service manual says either the sender unit or the fuel thermistor.
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Well I had a long/hard start today. It was about 55 degrees and has been raining on and off all day. I got on my bike around 630 to head home and it cranked and cranked. Cycled the ignition on and off a few times (then remembered to pull the choke out). Sat there with it off for maybe 1 minute or so; turned the key back on and had the choke fully out and it started right up. I did notice that my voltmeter was reading low 10's during the cranking and it started to slow a little bit. So I am going to do some more extensive testing on my battery, and see if maybe it is on the way out too. I have not given up on the relay that MuffinMan suggested -- I found it, cleaned it [it looked fine] and will look for a replacement on the ebay (or if it is not too expensive, just replace the #*&*& thing)... I am not one to go down with out a fight, but I am reaching the end of the rope here... I want my old reliable bike back... For what it is worth, the last several times I started my bike (with the new fuel pump) it started almost instantly. It was amazing. Not to mention the ran great!
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Alright, well I ran across a good deal on a fuel pump so I couldn't pass it up. I have it installed, along with a brand new fuel filter (granted my old one only had a few thousand miles on it I figured for 2 bucks and since I had it all apart anyways, why not replace it). For what it is worth, a couple of days ago (maybe it was more like a week -- I really don't remember now; work has been pretty crazy lately) when I went to start the bike, flipped on the ignition, turned the fuel selector to "ON", flipped the emergency cut-off switch to the ON position and the fuel pump started clicking rapidly (like normal) and within a few clicks it stopped. I cycled the ignition switch again and the same thing happened. On the third cycle it ran for the full couple of seconds with the ticks slowing as the time went on (just like it is supposed to). This strongly suggested to me that I am having an intermittent problem with my pump. I have not had a chance to take it for a test ride yet, but I did get the pump installed last night so we shall see what happens.
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RedRider: Short of your drive catching fire, there is almost always a way to recover the data. I have had plenty of drives fail on me over the years, hardly any of them failed to an extent that I was not able to recover most (if not ALL) of the data. The exception to that rule is when the drives are part of a RAID array and a series of drives in the array fail. As a function of how the RAID system works with respect to storing data, it can be nearly impossible (or not worth the time required) to actually recover the data in a readable format. Redundant backups are ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS an excellent way to go. That being said, depending on the extent of the mechanical problem (failed read head(s), electrical short, damaged platter, etc etc) sometimes they can be recovered and sometimes they cannot be. With newer drives they use an on board technology known as S.M.A.R.T. (self-monitoring analysis and reporting technology) that further helps warn a user that their drive is about to fail and, as a result, further reduces the percentage of true mechanical failures BEFORE someone knows that their drive is going to bite the dust. As an aside: I would NOT recommend putting a drive in the freezer for any length of time for ANY reason. Arguments against this start with the moisture collection within the drive itself and its crystallization upon freezing could cause some major problems with the platters or read-heads themselves. Sure, some people have had luck freeing up a stuck spindle by doing that but performing the repair properly is also very likely to recover your data. More importantly, the magnetic recording method used by the GMR/CMR read/write heads in the disk drives as well as the magnetic media themselves all have intrinsic magnetic properties that are temperature dependent. Unless someone really wants to know more, I will go ahead and stop here - but I could give a few hour lecture on the magnetic properties of these systems and the intricacies of how and why they work the way they do [but I figured no one really wanted to know THAT much about magnetic media]. Disclaimer :duck:: No, I am not a computer expert by any stretch of the imagination, but I am a condensed matter/solid state physicist working in the area of semiconductors and various magnetic systems. I manage a few servers of my own and have been monkeying with computers and working with them [unfortunately] for many years now. RedRider: I hope that addressed your question. If you have a specific question or something about one of your drives feel free to send me a message with the details of what happened, symptoms, any 'official' claims as to the diagnosis etc etc and I would be perfectly happy to give you my opinion. -Lilbeaver
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I forgot to mention in my message that since you have another working machine, there is a strong possibility that I could walk you through the data recovery process on the phone. It CAN [sometimes] be very straight forward.
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PM Sent
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Qualitatively, this is a perfectly valid way to think about a diode. The simplest form of an [ideal] diode, allows current to pass in one direction, but not the other.
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When I get home from work later, I will take another look at the electrical diagrams we have to see what I can extract from the diagram and then give you a write up of my analysis. I have not had a chance to look at that particular relay very carefully but will defiantly do that soon. I too am frustrated beyond belief with this. I don't know about you, but I know for sure my ignition unit was having some problems as my bike ran much much better after replacing it - so for me that was definitely a good thing to do. The only things left are fuel pump and the battery (my load test on the battery came out just fine). I am in the process of trying to find a fuel pump now. I know that there are some aftermarket ones out there but I cannot find the right kind of Mr Gasket pump (the fixed output on the newer makes it unusable now). I know that Facet has one, just need to find a supplier that has one in stock or bite the bullet and get an OEM one. After an exchange with Seaking about his his issue a few years back, I am thinking that revisiting the fuel pump is probably the ticket here. But maybe this relay that Jeff mentioned has something to do with it too.
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JM headsets about to go in the toilet!
LilBeaver replied to Aimhigh's topic in GPS, Audio, Electronics
I have had a total of 9 cables replaced in the last 3 years (all under warranty). The stress point in the cable is just below where it attaches to the helmet. They seem to be aware of this and replace my cables, no questions asked. I am thoroughly displeased with the fact that I have to keep replacing these stupid things, but at least they are taking good care of their customer. What happens is after a few weeks of use, the audio becomes intermittent (sometimes only the right ear works, sometimes only the left and sometimes none at all) until it just fails all together. I wish there was a good alternative or that they would make the cables a few inches longer.