LilBeaver

Unfortunately (or I suppose fortunately - in some cases) in situations like this, the only people that have the best chance of knowing the whole story are ONLY the folks that are investigating it. I have been involved in a few major incidents with the PD I used to work for, albeit nothing of this scale, and after all of the reports were submitted and the cases were closed - I was astonished at how the local media spun each of the stories into something that painted a picture of the situation that was far from being accurate. As others have stated, I do not care if she was the one that landed the final action that stopped the threat or if she was someone that corralled people to safety. ANYone involved (on the 'good' side) in situations like this are true heroes in my book. And of course, everyone currently serving or have served in our military; Army, Navy, Marine Corps, Air Force, National Guard, Coast Guard, the reserves, (my apologies if I left any one out); are heroes too. If it weren't for them working so hard to protect this wonderful country, who knows where we would be today.

When I am by my self I drive until I get tired, pull off at a rest area of some sort and use the picnic table(s). If weather is real bad, I'll get a cheap motel or something. And once every couple of days I'll get a cheap motel so I can shower, sleep well, etc. The last couple of trips I have made have been 2-up and she is a little more picky than I am about where we stop for the night... So, I'll keep my eye on this thread; lots of good info here

Depending on what you end up with left over - and who else by you wants some, I may be interested in a can or two... Keep me/us posted on how it goes and what you end up with 'left over'.

I agree that backups are, without a doubt, the best way to go in insuring that your data stays safe. There are various tools that can aid in the securing of data many good solutions in both onsite and offsite backups. Personally, I use a few different methods. I have an external hard drive that I copy stuff to at least once a week. I also have a file server that I store my work-related files on, which is completely separated from my system except for the network connection I use to push my files over to it. And lastly, I keep a CD backup of the files that I don't want to lose. My backup sequence is set to run automatcially - all I have to do is put in the CD (actually it is a DVD-RW), plug in my external HDD and activate my network connection and it does its thing. I disagree with the premise that one is bound to lose data regardless of the platform one uses but I do not think that this is the place to discuss that. I suppose that I should have been more clear with my initial statement of the data loss. With a Mac, when the drive 'fails to mount' or the OS decides that it is done working for you, the user has very few options in accessing the data on the drive. There have been a few builds of the Mac OS that have been notorious for these errors. I will not get into any other particulars with these unless someone really wants to hear about it. My apologies if my wording was unclear, my intent was not to 'bash' or 'put down' anyone and I should have been more clear with not only my initial statement but most likely this one here. Again, I maintain that Macs and PCs both have their own pros and cons. And the right choice for an individual is really up to that individual. Like I said, use the one that works best for you and I hope that you get many miles out of your choice.

:yikes: *Okay, back on topic*

Everyone bakes there data now and again. I prefer baked over fried... haven't you ever fried a pooter? In fact, I recall not too long ago YOU frying one up there.... Good catch, by the way... So much for me being a smart ***... Well, maybe what I was doing was setting it up for you Rick... yea, we'll go with that - it was planned.

As usual, great job with the video!

Also, some folks have lubed the bushings, joints, etc. on the rear shock... that may be something to take a peek at as well Don't forget to take a real good look at those brake pads too

Isn't that rock salad a little hard on the teeth? I've been using PCs all my life, and I have yet to have a virus on any of my computers... Dave if you are looking to run Microsoft software (such as office, etc.), it IS possible for Macs to run them. You do need to buy the Mac version of the software. There have been some issues in the past with compatibility of the files from Mac to PC and vise-versa. I have personally experienced these issues as I will routinely get assignments submitted from students that use Macs that will not open on my computer. I realize that there are various settings and whatnot that can be setup so that this does not happen very often, but it still does occur. With that said, Macs do have their own host of problems... Just ask someone that has had a mac that crashed on them how much data they were able to recover after the crash. The answer will likely be none of it. Macs and PCs each have their own upsides and downsides - the best thing you can do is keep your data backed up and enjoy what you've got!! Back on topic: Congrats on the new computer!! Some people love then, some people hate them. Quite frankly, if it does what you want it to do - and you are happy with it, then it is the computer for you

If you would like to be added or removed from this list - let me know via posting to this thread and I will do my best to stay on top of it. Thank you KiteSquid for taking care of this up to this point, what a terrific idea!! I hope this can keep going and continue to help people out. KiteSquid's original text, with rules (slightly adjusted in a few places for clarity and redundancy): There is three copies of Ride Like a Pro (RLAP) IV or V DVD's that are free for anybody who wants it. FREE, but they have to agree NOT to copy it, and to pass it along for FREE to the next person after a short viewing session.... maybe two weeks???? The sender pays the postage, NOT the recipient, so no money changes hands, this I think will keep it all legal!! To request to be put on this list, please post to this thread and you will be put on in order posted on my next visit to the thread. Please DO NOT PM me as you will only be put on the list if you post to this thread... My apologies if you got missed, just let me know and I will put you in the appropriate place. PLEASE Remember to please post something you learned from the video. And again, I am not connected with RLAP, I just want my fellow bikers to have a long and healthy life on two wheels and anyway that we all can learn to ride safely is a good thing!!!!!! By the way, if you are tired of waiting, or would like to purchase your own copy please click HERE to order and be sure to ask for your Venture Rider Forum member discount. IIRC it saves you $5. BTW this DVD is worth every penny!!!!!!! The List: People who originally, freely gave away their copy of RLAP IV or V (Thanks a lot you guys!!) KiteSquid, Friesman1, jburrell :clap2: Currently HAS a copy: painterman67 Bubber JMorrison Canada camos – Saanichton, BC Australia United States krome rose ** Reported as no response BurgyMon timgray VegasVic MikeC Kbay Reed -- somewhere in ND indianriverjack -- Belpre OH 1sttenor in Jeff City MO Condor in Carmichael Ca fixit3546 in Mechanicsburg (Bentonia) MS RandyR in Dahlonega GA GaThumper in Cleveland GA Blackjack in Snellville GA Black Owl in Apple Valley MN eusa1 in Dixon IL Larry M – Pullman WA MidlifeVenture – Twinsburg, OH 67mini67 – Cheney, WA Jemorrisonjr – New Berlin, WI Joer – Hudson Oaks, TX Hunter_1500 – Ferrisburgh, VT Little Bob – Steven’s Point, WI camos – Saanichton, BC Motorcycle Mike – Lawrenceville, GA midnite – Mc Kenzie, TN nbowersock - North Ft. Worth, TX Travelin Man (formerly: Crazy_Frog) - McRae, GA SylWoody - Talladega, AL Gdlover - Newton, IA Removed from list for above listed reasons (or I think that they have seen it): Seen it: skydoc_17 uthpda painterman67 Bubber Naked Rider (changed forum name from 1_2_ride_RSV) JMorrison Roadhand Expired: camotor1 Smith WaltH in Rockledge FL --- member not found wtho mastermechanic jhw47 Shep in Phoenix AZ spgarner in Las Vegas NV (last visit 18/june/09) HIGHWAY PILOT in Miami FL edsfidc in Chesapeake VA highwayrydr in Orono ME For the efficient passage of the video how please do the following: 1) Upon receipt of the video, post that you have received it. 2) Initiate communication with the next person on the list (which ought to be included with the video and I will do my best to keep the list updated on here too) 3) Communication with the next person on the list ought to be done via e-mail, PM or telephone call (based on whatever you are comfortable with and what is available in the person's profile). 4) Let us allow 1 week for the person next on the list to respond (which is why initiating the communication immediately would be advised). 5) If no response, move to the next person on the list. 6) When a response is confirmed, post the results so we know where they are at. 7) After viewing the video, post something you learned from it (as per KiteSquid's request), and post when sent to the next person. 8) Ride safe

I had assumed you were joking, which is why I phrased my question the way I did. I realize that the installation involves only replacing the 'plugs' for the coolant and oil gauges, and then running a set of electrical wires for the voltmeter. Obviously removing the cassette deck (which only involves unplugging it from the radio amp). So, I guess I do not see any rational reason to void the warranty based on that... But, I guess the question would have been better suited to ask if anyone has had a problem getting warranty work done as a result of the installation.

In all honesty, this is a good question. What, if any part of the warranty would change due to the needed modifications to install the gauges? By the way, the gauge setup looks terrific - and even better in person (I've seen a few of them now)!

That is interesting considering the fact that the 2010 line was introduced not too long ago...

Looks great! :thumbsup2: Sounds like you got a steal on that exhaust!!

So, my understanding of this is that the starter doesn't engage properly? Meaning that if you can start the bike without using the starter, it will run fine. If that is the case you could always push start it and still get some riding in I did that with a wing for about 2 months...

Since you are obviously able to get on the internet with A computer (ie. the one you are using to post in here). You could download a program and burn it to a CD. That way you could boot from that CD in the infected computer. Wiping the hard drive clean, and reloading all of your programs would certainly produce a solution, but, it is very unlikely that is 'the only' solution....

You ought to be able to run the windows restore point function when you boot in safe mode. This should resolve the problem you are having where you cannot do anything because you get 'locked out'. The other thing you could do is download one of the free spyware/malware removal tools that you can boot from the CD and run it that way. Either way ought to work.

SilverT is correct on this. What this one in particular does is put itself in the OS registry so that when you start it, the malware basically reinstalls itself on your computer. By doing the 'restore to an earlier date' the computer reverts the registry to a version that was good BEFORE the malware made its way in. If you can follow the instructions given on those pages, you will be fine. Good luck.

Annie, you may want to talk with a local radio shop or some local documentation before you go through with a CB purchase to make sure that the CB you are getting is setup for the frequency range that your country uses (which may or may not be the same as another country). In the U.S. the CB band (commercial use) operates between the frequencies of 26.965-27.405 MHz range. This, by definition, is NOT UHF. The UHF CB radios operate in the 477MHz range (476.425 - 477.400 MHz range). Hope this helps!

Yup, I used to drive through Chicago twice every weekend... I commuted detroit-chicago for two summers (I had a job in each place)... I do NOT miss that c*** at all. Thanks for the laugh

On my 82 Goldwing I can remove the key when the ignition is in any position except for the 'ON' position. Including the ACC, OFF, Lock, and park position. I'll try this when I go home tonight but can you remove your key when the ignition is in the ACC position? I know that one should not be able to, but maybe it would be worth trying it intentionally to see if hte key will come out; just to be sure that your method works. Good luck.

As far as I know, on a completely stock bike the only component that is energized when the key is in the off position is the 'back-up' circuit. Which, as Herb mentioned, provides power to the radio amp and the speedometer unit to maintain the clock time, radio presets and trip odometer readings. This has a current draw in the neighborhood of hundreds of mili-amps (~300 mA if I recall correctly). Possible sources of excess electrical drain: - Key left in ACC position (which you have seemed to have pretty much ruled out) - Accessory relay failed in the energized position (unlikely at that) providing a power feed from the battery to the accessory (you could detect this by noting any added accessories still energized when you turn the bike off) - Short somewhere in wiring (or wiring harness) allowing for power draw to still occur with key in 'off' position. - Bad battery (not a source of 'drain' as much as it is simply a problem of holding a charge) In order to determine if you have some excess drain while in the off position you need to do some sort of electrical test. Either with an ammeter or a test light. If the problem is intermittent this may be an inconclusive test, but regardless, you should be able to deduce some information from it. If you have an ammeter, I would suggest using the ammeter opposed to the test light; mainly so that you can get an idea of how much current is going through each circuit with the key off and also if you have a small current passing though a particular circuit it is possible (unlikely, but nevertheless possible) that the test lamp may not be bright enough to visually see the lamp illuminate even though there may be a current passing through that circuit. Anyways, take your choice in testing apparatus and go to each fuse box. One fuse at a time do the following: 1) Remove fuse in the circuit to be inspected 2) Place ammeter probes across the contacts that the fuse connects to, record reading (NOTE: ensure that you have the ammeter set on the appropriate scale as you may be looking for something on the order of mA.) 3) If get a non-zero reading, record your results 4) Reinstall fuse and move to the next circuit. Repeat 1-4 for all of the fuses in the bike. 5) If you have anything that is energized directly by the battery (not through a fuse box) go ahead and see if there is any current draw to those accessories while bike is off. To do this, either measure it through the inline fuse (same procedure as described above) or disconnect the wiring from the battery and complete the circuit using your ammeter. Personally, I would start with the main 30A fuse for the bike (located behind the fuse box on the left side of the bike, behind where the passenger's left ankle would be adjacent to). Take the reading at the main fuse. Then take the reading at the 'back-up' fuse (not to be confused with the 'reverse' system ). If these two readings are the same you can conclusively say that you have either an intermittent problem or not so conclusively a battery problem or operator error and thusly do not need to continue investigating the electrical system in this manor. Hope this helps. Good luck.

Have you pulled each fuse and measured the current through each circuit on the bike? This will allow you to get an idea of what, if anything, is drawing power while the bike is 'off'. Some drain is normal, I'll post more later (or someone else can jump in)... I've got a plane to get on.

Looks like a good turn out!

If you look carefully, you can see that was done. Yesterday, I went back and found your post that requested that you be put on the list and inserted your name in the appropriate position on the list.