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LilBeaver

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Everything posted by LilBeaver

  1. LilBeaver
    This probably doesn't count because she's my grandmother and it was one, 20 mile ride... She's 82 . Grandpa gets rides too... Up until 8 years ago [he had some health complications], he would drive and she would ride his Goldwing all over the place.
  2. LilBeaver
    For what it is worth; On my bike I find that my low fuel light comes on and I have about 5-10 miles to go before I switch it to reserve. If I fill up right around when I switch to reserve, I do put in ~ 4.5 gals or so...
  3. LilBeaver
    Probably a good thing you moved to Texas... Now you are more than a couple hours from Don so it will be more difficult for him to come to you and open a can
  4. LilBeaver
    I'll answer a few of these. See IN TEXT annotations Just in case you didn't see it before, on the tool bar up top of the page, 3rd item from the right hand side of yoru screen (near the top) is 'search'. When you are under the 'forum' option you have the word search for the forum (minimum of 4 letters per word) OR you can use the 'google search' tool within the VR site. Both of those can be extreemly helpful. Lots of times trying different phrasing, spellings, or words for the items you are looking for can be helpful as well. Hope that helps. I'm sure others will jump in too
  5. LilBeaver
    Anything that is WATER based would be a very bad idea (which rules out food coloring). Water/moisture contamination causes the brake fluid to brake down and most importantly, the boiling point of the fluid drops as the amount of water in the fluid increases. Since the system gets put under pressure while in use, one would NOT want the fluid to start to 'boil' as that would introduce more gas in the lines and we don't want that now do we? (The answer is NO. Gas or vapor bubbles in a line are compressible, were as the liquid state of a fluid is relatively incompressible. Therefore, if you have air pockets - while you may fully apply a brake lever it cannot perform to its peak ability do to the 'compressible pockets' that may form within the line itself. HENCE why it is important to 'bleed' any hydrolic system after fluid replacement or if one suspects that air was introduced to the system.) Now, if there is another glycol based dye that one could use - I don't know... I'll stick with the clear crap and fight to see it... That way, I can tell immediately if it gets contaminated with something along the way, or if it is time to change it before my 'normal' changing interval.
  6. LilBeaver
    Yup yup - that is why I like to leave a little bit of airspace at the top - so I can shake it a little and see if it moves (verify that I can see the fluid/air bubbles/something). The fluid WILL change over time, and become easier to see as it gets used more and more (or if it gets contaminated).
  7. LilBeaver
    What I do, and this by no means is the 'correct' way to do it or whatever; just my . Adjust the bars (and lean angle as appropriate) to get the reservoir to be as level as possible (to minimize the possibility of spillage). The manual says to check the fluid with the bike upright and the bars straight and you want the fluid to be visible in the window, and no where near the bottom of the sight glass. I put enough in so that when I have the bike upright and bars straight, I can see the very top of the fluid level in the very top of the sight glass (for the brakes this assumes that the calipers are fully retracted). I do this so that I can see, definitively, where the fluid level is and because I don't want to over-fill it either. **Make sure you re-install the diaphragms appropriately as well as the plastic caps when you put your covers back on. Hope this helps give you an idea at least.
  8. LilBeaver
    Good luck friend! I cannot imagine going in for eye surgery. For anything else, one can just close your eyes and the docs do their thing... But I just have this mental image of the tools coming down on my eyes and having to try not to move them, etc etc. Sheesh. Hope there are no unwanted surprises in this endeavor!
  9. LilBeaver
    Haha, yea I hear you. There is never enough time to cover everything... But, that is just how it goes. Now that I am doing research, I get to decide what I want to cover and what I don't (give or take a little for what I can convince a funding agency to give me funding for) - but if you have the basics, and by now you certainly do, all it takes is some time invested in to a few good Physical Review Letters, or if you are working on something that is pretty common - maybe you can find a text book; either way a little time and you're on the way
  10. LilBeaver
    Yup. Dot 4 brake fluid is the way to go. And you are very lucky that none of that spilled on any painted surface. It does not take long at all for the brake fluid to cause the paint to bubble up on a plastic surface, and on the metal surface, while it would take a little longer - it still is not good on the paint. I'm sure you aren't the only one that has spilled a little fluid once or twice Lets just say, I learned the hard way, to not mess around and keep any painted within the 'splash zone' covered.
  11. LilBeaver
    Gotcha. What I need are the bulk magnetization curves for a couple of samples. I am doing analysis on the formation of magnetic polarons and the internal local magnetic fields of magnetic semiconducting and dilute magnetic semiconducting materials. One of the key characteristics of magnetic semiconductors (including the dilute ones, and magnetically frustrated systems) is that the energy of the conduction electron or the equivalent hole (which is what we believe localizes to form the magnetic polaron) is strongly dependent on the magnetization of the crystal itself. SO, by getting very good and reliable magnetization information we can predict/confirm the behavior that we are seeing using the appropriate observation techniques for the magnetic polarons themselves. So yea, what I want the SQUID for is to get a really good [intrinsic] magnetization curve for some of my materials. (for anyone playing along, magnetization is an intrinsic property of a material as a 'measure' of magnetic moments per unit volume. The magnitization gives insight as to the number of alligned spins or more simply put, how magnetic a particular material is under certain conditions). The 4 point probe that I use is for a different project, but still related. We use it for resistivity measurements as well but to determine carrier concentration as well as a few other properties. The operation of the probe is the easy part, the difficult part is determining the correction factors, etc. which is part of what I am currently having an issue with. The probe I have is intermittant for me but seems to work fine for my college (so I'm pretty sure it is operator error - and he has no idea what I am 'doing wrong').
  12. LilBeaver
    Hey hey - So in your school work, did you happen to come across a SQUID (Superconducting quantum interference device) suceptometer (or magnetometer)? I need to get some quality magnetization information on some samples I am working on and am having a hard time getting time on a machine and was just wondering if your university had one. Also, since you have 4-point probe experience, if you don't mind I might have a few questions for you about those too
  13. LilBeaver
    Congrats!!!
  14. LilBeaver
    Wow, ~50 + shipping... What a steal! Looks like the last bidder up-bid with 8 seconds to go.
  15. LilBeaver
    You will need 4 bolts sized: M6 X 10 1.00 Unless you already have them in the forks where they ought to mount.
  16. LilBeaver
    NO KIDDING!! -- I hope they do shipping insurance. :080402gudl_prv:
  17. LilBeaver
    Got a notice from the post office yesterday, and today I picked 'em up. I wish I didn't have so much work to do, as I would go ahead and put them on and all... Turns out I need 2 more bolts, and a bit of time to clean the rest of the chrome up. They look GREAT though!!! :bowdown: Thanks a lot Jeff & Dan :thumbsup2: You folks waiting will NOT be disappointed
  18. LilBeaver
    If the gearing on the two bikes are identical (which from the owners manual, it appears that way ), then that would be a logical conclusion. The only other differences would be how the bike is driven, and of course assuming that the carbs, intake, and exhaust are all setup the same.
  19. LilBeaver
    Welcome! Come on in, stay a while. Grab one of those white jackets in the corner to match the rest of us I am currently waiting for the postman to drop my new deflectors off; BUT I have seen a set done on JerryW's bike - and I must say you two do GREAT work and I cannot wait to get mine. Although thanks to you I have to spend some time shining the rest of the chrome on my bike now... I can handle that though. Welcome! and thanks for all your hard work!!
  20. LilBeaver
    The fluid dynamics of a 'typical' object moving through air at STP specifies that the resistance is proportional to the square above ~88 feet per second (~55 mi/hr). It is relatively linear up to that point though. This is the typical approximation made for a 'standard' automobile. For a bike like the RSV (or even the 1st gen) - where the windshield and fairing make a relatively smooth surface for the air to pass over and around, this approximation still holds as good. Goose, qualitatively you ARE correct. Nuff said. --- I do not know that the aerodynamic comparison between the Ultra Classic and the RSV is the main culpret though. I suspect it is certainly a mixture of the aerodynamics as well as the gearing, etc. Anways, I'll quit yammering now...
  21. LilBeaver
    Thanks!! I'm looking to do something that is not mount a bunch of the analog gauges with the expensive housings to my handlebars... I'm working on something now involving the ignition bezel too, but that isn't so promising... Anyways, thanks again - sounds like another good alternative
  22. LilBeaver
    He is still around And I have proudly had him on the back of his original 82 GW (that I had my first ride on) as well as my 2nd Gen. He greatly enjoyed both (Yet he will not get on the back of a bike driven by anyone else - so I suppose that says something...) And he told me he wants to hang around long enough so I can take him for another spin. The only reason his 'new' bike will look like a VR is because THEY look so much like the old wings
  23. LilBeaver
    CONGRATS!! :mo money:
  24. LilBeaver
    I know not all of us agree about the 'to plug or not to plug' - in the tread question. BUT, sidewall blowouts are no fun - especially at highway speed. Don't ask me how I know
  25. LilBeaver
    Bummer: Definitely keep us posted. I too am having a similar issue - I had just figured that I did not push the plug in all the way, but I was messing with it last night and found that even with it fully in there seems to be some sort of problem. So, what I'm interested in is if they replace it come up with a fix, etc. Thanks a lot! Good luck with yours
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