LilBeaver
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Everything posted by LilBeaver
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As an alternative to the Odyseey (sp?) battery. If you have a sam's club membership or a walmart nearby, you may want to check them out too. I picked up an AGM battery made by interstate for my RSV for ~50 before tax (but including the core charge for 'exchanging/recycling' the old battery). I cannot comment on the longevity of the battery outside of the Interstate reputation and my 8+ months of trouble free use. However, the longest the bike sat, non-started would have been ~2 weeks while I was out of town. ( I ride pretty much all year round down here). Again, just an alternative to the OEM price tag and quality.
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That's some good stuff, thanks for sharing . Oh, the article was good too.
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If you scoll to the bottom of your thread here, you'll see there are many other threads that are titled "speed bleeders". Or you can do a search for 'speed bleeders' using the search tool on the bar on the top of this webpage (third from the right on the second blue bar from the top). I think you'll find all sorts of good information on them that way!! http://www.speedbleeder.com/ As a sidenote here, they don't seem to be as expensive as I recall seeing at some point.
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These are pretty good . I had one of these (actually, it is still in my tool box) for about 10years or so, and just last year the little rubber seal on the inside of the end dried up so it doesn't seal on the valve stem anymore -- which, incidentally, is why I was looking for a new gauge. That website claims +/- 0.5 PSI. Which is what the claim on my old accutire gauge was as well. I sure wish I could find one of those down here. With respect to the "slime certification", I don't know if you have the product up there or not, but 'slime' is a company that puts out one of those 'tire sealant' kits that is the goop you put in the tire after you've run something over that is supposed to get you to the next service station. I understood the main goal of your post and couldn't agree more. I re-read my response and realize that it could have been misinterpreted. I was merely looking to help point out something to look for when one selects a new gauge and to not be given a false sense of security by seeing the digital display. Lots of people would see the fact that a gauge or meter reads to say the 0.1 place - and assume that because it reads that means it is accurate to there as well. I guess I see this A LOT with my students... And I get pretty easily discuted with products that have the potential to be great, then you flip it over and read the fine print and see that type of rating, despite the price tag and the front that claims it is the 'most accurate in its class' or whatever the wording was. Anyways, I didn't mean to hijack anything, steer away from your original point or whatever, just wanted to help make sure people were aware of that fact before hopping into something that won't do what they expect it to (and may or may not realize it).
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Now THAT is impressive!! I wish I could get my bike to do that -- Or like Beer30 said, there is always a chance of getting some bad fuel, so better to mix the good with the bad than get all bad. Pete: One thought here is that if you had a few hard right leans or something, then you 'ran out' you would have had quite a bit of fuel left in the tank, that would have been accessible after a hard left turn or two. Sine the petcock pulls from only one side of the tank and the tank has a big 'divider deal' in the middle, it takes a good lean to get the fuel to switch from one side to another. A few weeks ago, I spent some time in a parking lot, screwing around... I mean 'practicing slow maneuvers' and my fuel was low enough that I could get the fuel light to come on when I was doing right handed U-turns and then get it to go off again with left-handed ones. After that I made a point of doing right-turns only until I started to sputter (which was a big mistake... Sputtering in the middle of a full locked turn is NOT fun ). I switched to reserve long enough to get the bike leaned over to the left, then turned it off of reserve and was able to drive for ~10 miles or so before having to actually switch back to reserve. So if we say you had maybe 1/4 gallon left in the right side of the tank (inaccessible without leaning the bike far to the left), and you added your 32 oz (1/4 gallon) that would give you ~1/2 gallon. If that all sloshed to the left side of the tank and you averaged 36-40 mpg on your way to the pumps, that would have given you your 17 miles. So that could be a plausible explanation for your 17 miles on what appeared to be 1/4 of a gallon of fuel.
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Aside: When you get closer to planning your trip, wherever you are headed, if you want some company with the ride - keep us posted. I'm planning on heading up that way (a few times) over the summer too.
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You have been around for some time and you have indicated that you have already found this site to be quite the resource. I have never used speed bleeders (and quite frankly, just can't quite justify the cost). A simple 8mm wrench a bottle and a couple lengths of hose are all you need to bleed the system. Someone wrote up how to setup a coke bottle to work as a vacuum pump. I haven't even gone that far, I stick with the pump and open the bleeder valve method. I start by sucking all of the old fluid out of the resevoir(s), and cleaning them out really well. THEN start working the appropriate brake (clutch) line until I get clear fluid coming out of the bleeder. Then a few more pumps for good measure (while watching the master cylinder, of course) and as long as it continues to come out nice and clear with no bubbles, I'll top off as necessary and clean up. I do see that you have a first gen and I do know that those linked brakes can be a little tricky, so this method may not be quite as easy for the linked braking system as it has been for me on all of the vehicles I've done this on. Good luck!! Don't be afraid to dive in for these kinds of simple tasks. No sense in getting ripped by a stealer for something that, while might take a little longer, you can do yourself and be assured that it is done CORRECTLY (and actually done, for that matter).
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If it is still leaking (and there is fluid left in the reservoir) it may be worth pumping/removing the rest of the fluid from the rear brake system to keep brake fluid off that rear tire and from ruining any painted or plastic surface that it might find its way to. If it is a busted hose/brake line you could always wrap it up with a napkin, paper towel or packing tape or something - just to keep the spray down/contained...
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Just because it is digital doesn't mean it is good, unless you also check the tolerances of the gauges. For example the "Slime" gauges that are sold (with a range of 0-160psi) have a tolerance of +/- 3 PSI () with a resolution of .1 PSI (). Which, for a motorcycle (in my opinion) is totally unacceptable and completely less than useless. For clarity, if your tire was inflated to 40 PSI and you had this particular gauge, slime certifies that the reading with be anywhere from 37 to 43 PSI. Rick, I'd double check your packaging (if you still have it), instruction manual or maybe even the gauge itself, as a decent digital gauge would have that listed on it. Hopefully yours is much better than that I have been amazed at how much of a difference 1 or 2 PSI makes in the tires. - As Squeeze suggested, checking against an actual calibrated gauge (if you can find one) is always a good idea.
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2001 Venture - Intregrated Brakes?
LilBeaver replied to wolfmanjj's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I forgot about that. Here is a thread that talks about it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41867 Good call Forrest. -
The book CLAIMS .91 gal in reserve, however, I believe there is some almost unanimous disagreement about that on here. I believe that most folks have reported ~1.5 gallon reserve. If you take along that trusty gas can, you can let us know what you find!! I DO find that I routinly put in ~ 4.5 gallons if I fill up a few miles after I switch to reserve (and the fuel light has been illuminated for 5-10 miles depending on how far to the left I have leaned since the last time I checked the odo/fuel gauge). What I have not verified is if I could put in an extra .5 gallons by doing the fuel tank mod thereby extending the distance I have BEFORE the fuel light comes on and switching to reserve OR if I could actually go a distance that corrisponds to 1.5 gallons of fuel consumption before running out. One of these days I WILL test that though, as I do have a gas can and a lot of open road around here... Sorry, I didn't mean to contribute to the hijacking of the thread...
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2001 Venture - Intregrated Brakes?
LilBeaver replied to wolfmanjj's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I seem to recall some discussion of this in the Tech area but after some quick searching, I couldn't find anything (but that doesn't mean it isn't there). I would look around there some more and if you cannot find anything I'd contact either Skydoc_17 (Earl) or Rick Butler (Rick). They will most likely either be able to point you in the right direction or set you up with some sort of kit to git-r-done. Good luck!! (sorry to hear about your leg) -
'Around town' type driving I'll get 150-160 miles (241 - 257 kms) before flopping to reserve. Highway (doing near the speed limit) I have done ~ 180-200 miles (289 - 322 kms) before having to switch. I have a '01 RSV and I have not done the tank filler neck mod... yet.
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Glad you finally got it all taken care of. I bet it is more comfortable to ride it this way than it was before, eh?
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I need clutch help...
LilBeaver replied to a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Well how about that!! Yea, that stuff is a real bugger to see when it is clean - especially if it completely fills the window. Sounds like you've got yourself setup though between Joe sending you the parts and Sylvester's gasket AND install!! You'll be on the road, slip free, in no time -
I need clutch help...
LilBeaver replied to a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
WOW - Now THERE is a GREAT deal!!!! -
Looks like a nice ride!
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I need clutch help...
LilBeaver replied to a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Just for kicks - I know you said the clutch fluid was [supposedly] changed by the stealer in January. It is an easy check - just look through the little window on the clutch master cylinder. If it is clear or slightly yellowed, it is fine. If it is real dark then it needs to be changed. To change it, it is quite simple - all you need is a bottle of DOT4 fluid and a hose to fit over the bleed valve (same setup used for brakes). I like to take a turkey baster and empty out the master cylider, wipe it out and get it nice and clean, then put in fresh fluid THEN begin the flushing process. This way you aren't putting old and dirty fluid thought the entire system (and it cuts down on the pumping time). Most importantly here, as the clutch wears the fluid level will actually increase (which is counter intuitive, especially compared to the brake setup) BUT take a look and see if your fluid reservoir is completely full or not. If it is more than 1/2 full, you might try to suck a little out of there and then seal it back up (that is if you don't have to flush everything out anyways). Now, from the sounds of it you do need to replace some parts, since if it was a matter of your reservoir being too full then it would get worse as the bike warms up, and you said that it is consistently bad. But, I figured it would be worth throwing out there since you are in a bit of a pinch anyways. Sounds like Joe has you setup so all you need is a gasket anyways. Good luck!!! Hope it all works well for you -
Inexpensive rear shock
LilBeaver replied to remmertb's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Joe: in 2003 or 2004 Yamaha added a vent hose to the shock. So if you look up a later model year, the shock still fits and they are cheaper. -
With no oil in it I wouldn't try to crank it at all. How long as it been without oil? I would say if you do want to turn it by hand, take out the plugs and put some oil down there but if it sat in storage for a year without oil, be prepared for a complete overhaul, rings and all... Just my
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Just keep 'em below the shiny stuff! (Seriously, take it easy for the first few hundred miles, brand new tires can be really slick)
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I too will refrain from providing a smartass remark here. Dave has summed things up quite well. All I would add would be: 1) Take a REALLY CAREFUL look all the way around your tires. That means look at the sidewalls and the tread, all the way around. If you have a jack & lift adapter (or center stand) the easiest thing to do is get the wheels off the ground, lay down and spin them slowly to inspect all the way around. 2) If you did all of those things before you put it away, a double check to make sure you have correct/appropriate operation of the key components (brakes, brake levers, and smooth operation of the throttle - both opening and closing). 3) check over the lights to make sure everything comes on like it is supposed to. 4) Make sure you've got your CURRENT insurance card in there too
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:think:
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This is one of them - the one that connects under the passenger seat. Did you use some electrical cleaner on it and actually do the 'unplug' and 'plug procedure a few times? That will ensure to clean off much of the corrosion build up that WILL occur on any electrical connection. There is an additional connection (that connects the CB unit to the main radio amp inside the front fairing). I do not recall what color the tape is on it but that would be another connection to check. The other suggestion would be to make sure that there is actually a CB unit inside the plastic box under your trunk. The "Audio" fuse is the fuse for the entire audio system - ie. radio, cassette, CD, intercom, handlebar control, and CB radio. Bottom line, I think your options are (in no particular order other than #1): 1) Connections dirty/not actually making a good connection 2) CB unit itself is not present 3) CB unit itself is faulty 4) Handlebar controller is faulty (which I would doubt since you seem to have control over the radio, etc.; BUT is still a possibility) 5) Main radio amp inside fairing is faulty Sorry to hear about your troubles. These kinds of electrical troubles I find frustrating because of the limited number of conclusive tests you can do before :mo money: Good luck friend!! OH YEA: keep an eye on Pinwall, Main radio amps and CBs show up every once and a while for ~300 and the handlebar controller comes up for ~200 occasionally as well (these are the prices for the components in good shape).
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Not my cup of tea, but that is my OPINION. Then again, I don't think twice about hopping on my RSV to go do anything. I do, however, sometimes take my 78 GS750 out for small store runs or 'quick trips' but that is more of a 'I just felt like riding that one that day' than a 'I don't feel like driving the RSV'. Also, I don't mind riding the RSV around town since the slower maneuvering is the 'more difficult' aspect to riding, it gives me lots of opportunities to practice and keep sharp on my skills. My other reason of using the RSV for the grocery getter or the 'quick trips' is that I can fit a couple weeks worth of groceries in the trunk & saddlebags (except for when I go to Sam's club) so I can take the bike instead of my truck. Really though, if you like the bike, like the way it sits and handles and it will do what you want it to do then go for it! I know that I wouldn't even consider such a bike, but my back is pretty fussy about my seating position too...