LilBeaver

Gel deal or the 'Rick Butler' mod comes to mind...

So that is an interesting issue you are having. As long as you keep paperwork and track of each time it happens and keep up with your records and fully disclose where necessary - I seriously doubt that you'll have an issue with any type of 'odometer' fraud claims. The 'fraud' implies that there is some intent to deceive, etc etc. And by you going through the effort to get it fixed once, and maintaining the actual mileage records I think it would be a pretty big stretch for a prosecutor to 'prove' beyond a reasonable doubt that you willfully and intentionally 'reset' your odometer with an intent to deceive. Now, on the note that you just want it to work correctly, I would be in the same position you are - I'd want to get it fixed, correctly and be done with it. As for possible sources to the problem I think you've got it pretty much nailed; must be a short to ground or surge happening somewhere. Or if there is some internal backup battery mechanism that supplies a constant power supply to whatever memory module is responsible for maintaining the odometer that has run its life course in the years of ownership... . My TRIP odometers will occasionally reset it self (if my bike sits for several days without running), but never the actual odometer itself.

:happy65::happy65: Terrific! I'm glad no one was hurt.

Welcome back!!! I hope you two can really enjoy this well deserved time off!!!

The fuel-sending unit has two separate electrical components to it. One that works the fuel gauge and a separate one that works the low fuel light and F-trip meter. you can test the sending unit by: 1) take off the black plastic piece that surrounds the fuel filler neck/gas cap deal (two allen screws) 2) there is a white plug that is located on under that plastic cover on the left side. Disconnect the plug 3) on the portion of that plug that has the three (I believe) wires that go to the under side of the tank (around the front) do a continuity check between the green/red wire and the black wire on the wiring in the harness that is attached to the fuel tank. 4) If you find that this is an open circuit (infinite resistance) then this is, in-fact, your problem. You need to replace the fuel sending unit (in order to have a functional fuel light and F-trip meter). You can find them used with Pinwall cycle parts occasionally, or you could get yourself a brand-spankin'-new one. :080402gudl_prv: There are a handful of folks in here that have needed to replace their fuel sending units, myself included (I have an 01 RSV). It is a real easy job. Drain tank, remove tank from bike (literally 3 bolts), flip over, remove 4 screws from old sending unit, remove old sending unit, make sure new unit is clean (you don't want contaminants in your tank), insert new one (this IS tricky - pay VERY CLOSE attention to how you remove the old one, the new one has to go back in the EXACT same way - but in reverse). Insert 4 screws making sure you have your gasket lined up. Reinstall tank on bike, reconnect fuel lines, OPEN the petcock and go for a drive.

Okay. I realize that our progressive policies may differ since we are in different states and all but here is how the relevant portion of mine reads: So. The question is, how do they define 'permanently installed' and aren't some of your Zumos hard wired into the bike? ergo, the permanent installation? Or do they have some sort of 'docking station' like deal that you plop it into? I would say that if it comes off with a quick release type deal, then it probably is not covered and one would have to rely on the homeowner's insurance to cover it. The homeowner's insurance covers all sorts of good stuff, I would encourage you to check out your policy and verify that you have coverage for such instances. Since theft from 'your personal property' is typically covered under those policies. If not, I am guessing that someone would be willing to sell insurance to cover such items either under an amended homeowner's type policy or one specifically written for such devices on the bike. Just some thoughts.

:happy65::happy65::happy65: Keep on taking your time to make sure to heal up right (don't want rush those things) !!! I did once a few years ago and I am and will pay for it for the rest of my life... Turns out I didn't know my knee better than the doctor.

hehe 2:29 - now there is a neat party trick

It really depends on how much you ride. I agree, if you can afford a 2nd rear wheel, that sounds like a good idea - it'd be nice to have a 2nd one on hand and ready to go. If not, and you don't plan on any long trips away from home in the next couple of months or whatever, then I'd say ride off what you've got until it really needs to be replaced. If you think you'll be taking a long trip or two in the near future, I'd say go ahead and replace it with an E3 (Avon or commander, depending on your preference, of course) - that way you've got a fresh one on and scuffed in (and tested out) to ensure many trouble free miles (barring punctures or whatever, of course).

I've attached a few of right after she bought it, it was in pretty rough shape (it was used as a drag car for a while) so we rebuilt almost all of it. Motor and tranny are not original, but it sure was fun to drive. Probably the fastest, off the line, car I ever drove. Good luck!!

I'd double check the plug that connects the two headphone pieces, inside the helmet, to make sure you have a good connection there and also check the patch cable between the helmet and bike - something is wrong with your setup, you should have the same volume out of each.

Some provisions under a homeowner's insurance policy covers this kind of stuff since it isn't covered under the typical automotive/bike insurance. You might want to double check the verbage in the 'accessory coverage' area. Seems to me that these ought to be considered accessories for the bike and covered appropriately. Just a thought.

ABSOLUTELY NOT. If there wasn't a customer service rep around, I probably would have done the same thing in moving the bike... I couldn't agree more with that statement. It is unfortunate that 'common sense' on some of these matters doesn't seem to be all that common Very nice. I'll post a pic of it tonight when I get to the computer that has the pictures on it, but a few years ago my sister bought a 72 Chevelle SS convertible, Her, my brother-in-law and myself spent a good amount of time restoring that puppy.

I think that you have valid concerns; however, if your explanation of how you expressed/communicated those concerns are accurate, then I think your response to what you saw may be out of line. There is nothing wrong with caring for your bike; but, quite frankly, you really have no business being back in the shop area. I do understand why you wanted to go move your bike and especially address how the saddlebag was laid down, however, again it was not your place to go do stuff in the dealership's shop - you are NOT authorized to be back there and it is a huge liability issue for the dealer for you to be back there. It would have been,by far, more appropriate to address your concern's directly to the shop manager (or customer service rep) in a calm and reasonable manor first. It would have been easy for you to point out to the manager (or customer service rep) the location of your bike and what was going on as the tech walked around your bike and discuss your concerns with scuffing the fender (or other parts). The technician was right to blow you off at the point that you addressed him, because in a situation like that, he has no way to know who you really are and if anything the technician should have asked you to not touch the bike (regardless of it being yours or not) while it was in their shop and then escorted you to the customer area. It is unfortunate that there is a scuff in your front fender. Not being able to feel it means that you ought to be able to rub it out relatively easily and is NOT an indicator of it being 'fresh' or not. So, no worries there. What I would suggest, for the future, if you are going to take your bike in and know that they are going to take the bags off or whatever, to just go ahead and remove those parts yourself. That way there is no risk of them damaging your bags. I had a rear tire replaced under warranty last summer and I did that since the bags are pretty top heavy, I figured it took me 5 minutes total to remove and reinstall both bags and I would be certain that the shop wouldn't damage them that way. I also saved about 15 bucks on the install - the service rep automatically took off the $15 since they didn't have to touch the bags ($40 install instead of $65). Again, I would stress that when you go and voice your concerns (if any) you keep yourself in check. I don't care how ticked off you get, raising your voice, yelling, making threats or whatever will only HURT your situation. I helped run a bodyshop for a while and we had a customer come in, walk back to the shop floor area and start yelling at one of our body guys. I will not go into details, but the story ends with assault and criminal tresspass charges being filed and on top of that his vehicle was rolled out of the shop and not touched by us after that. Now, don't take this the wrong way because this guy was very very extreme and quite frankly I think there may have been some underlying psychological issues too, but, don't forget that just because you walk in with money and agree to pay it doesn't mean that the shop is required by law to accept your business. No to mention that little waiver that gets signed saying that you authorize the shop to operate/move your vehicle as necessary and is not responsible for any damage (mechanical or cosmetic) done to it while it is under the shop's care, blah blah blah. SO, if they did scratch your bike or something and it can be proved, they are more likely to be willing to address the issue if they know that they are going to WANT to continue to earn your business. By rights, if you do claim that there is some damage caused by them, you could 1) report it as a comprehensive claim to your insurance company and then the insurance would take care of it by either ponying up the money for it to be fixed or go after the shop or 2) file a civil suit against the shop and then you would have to provide beyond a reasonable doubt that the shop actually caused the damage. Although, more than likely you wouldn't even make it to mediation, since you have no proof other than your own personal eyewitness account. As for having the 'shop manager' 'personally oversee' the work - really I think that is pretty useless other than potentially putting some responsibility on him/her for anything that you may question but in reality he probably won't sit there and babysit the technician since he really didn't see any wrongdoing except for maybe setting your bags on the bench the way the tech did since shop managers/foreman have plenty else to do. With all of that said, I KNOW that there are some shops that are terrible, but there are also some that do fantastic work, so, hopefully they'll do you right. Honestly, at this point, I think you may owe the guy you talked to an apology. Okay, I've given much more than my :2cents: Hopefully everything is fine when you pick up your bike, the 16k mile service was done correctly and completely, and you are a happy customer. :080402gudl_prv:

Sadly there really isn't much other option. There has been some discussion of the Pit-bull jack (I think that is what it is called). I believe they have an adapter that is included, that allows these bikes to be lifted in a safe manor (for the bike and for the steadiness/sturdiness/stability of working on them). I have seen videos, and there are posts of videos around here, of how stable those jacks are - but they are quite pricey as well.

Yes sir! Now I just need to find someone to take with me...

If that is what the service manual says, and there aren't any tests for that particular unit, then sounds like replacing it is the way to go. Depending on how hard it is to get to and if someone with a similar bike is around, you could always put in the one that you know works (out of the other bike) to see if the error goes away. Something else to check is to make sure that the 'tilt sensor' was actually bypassed correctly. But without any more information I don't know that we can help you anymore than has already been discussed.

The lift adapter allows one to use a typical motorcycle/ATV jack to actually get it in the air. In post 25 of: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40222&highlight=lift+adapter+professional&page=2 I show a couple of shots with the jack under it (after I installed the legs). You you do a little more searching, I am pretty sure that there are others that have pictures with jacks under the bikes too. What you'll notice is that that there are some engine components that stick down below the frame pieces so the lift adapter allows the jack to exert the force on the frame instead of the other exposed components, to lift the bike. Hope that clarifies it for you. Edit: Oops, JB already answered your question. Sorry for the double post.

Don't be fooled by the occasionally available cheap rip off of Larry's design either. I've had my bike up on this stand several times now (many more than I had expected that I would use it for) because it is so easy to use. With the legs on it, the thing is QUITE sturdy. As others have mentioned, I must agree that my only regret with this is that I didn't buy one sooner. Welcome to the site - we have a handful of members in your area too so keep an eye out for the meet and eats and meet and rides if you want to meet some other great people.

OH but I did. See, doing it THIS way leaves room for the ultimate 'test ride' after things get cleaned up. Got to get that clutch fluid warmed up and to make sure it works right... Right? I much rather 'take a break' by riding than otherwise... But maybe that's just me Oh yea. I guess I'm 'missing out' by not having someone around to give me a 'honey-do' list... :think: Dang.

I don't know if there is a tech article on it or not. Either way, it is pretty straight forward. I wrote this assuming you have a 2nd Gen. The procedure for a 1st gen ought to be pretty much the same except the bleed valve might be in a different place. As tsigwing said remove the rear left cylinder cover, pull back the black rubber deal and you'll see a bleeder valve (just like on the brake calipers). If you don't have a mightyvac or similar pump type system, you can still do it just do as follows: 1) Remove left rear cylinder cover, pull back black rubber cover to locate the bleeder valve 2) cover painted surfaces (left cowl and fuel tank) to avoid getting the brake fluid on the paint (as this is NOT good for it). 3) Get bike as level as possible with the handle bars turned to the full right lock position and boards under the side-stand or the bike lifted enough to level it off on the side-stand. In a pinch, you could get a helper to stabilize the bike long enough to do the work with the reservoir cover. 4) CAREFULLY remove the clutch reservoir cover - I suggest having a paper towel or old rag wrapped around the lower side of the reservoir cover as you are likely to have some spill out of there. Remove plastic filler piece and diaphragm from reservoir - again be careful not to drip the brake fluid on any painted surface. 5) Use a turkey baster or syringe (preferably one that you have no intention on using for food, ever again) to remove the old fluid out of the reservoir. Clean the reservoir appropriately. 6) open a can of fresh fluid (DOT 4 or DOT 5.1) and fill the resevoir about 3/4 of the way full. Replace diaphragm, plastic piece and cover, tighten the screws appropriately. 7) Place an appropriately sized hose over the bleeder valve with the other end going into a container that won't spill. 8) Slowly pump the clutch lever several times (anywhere from 3-10 is appropriate) and on the last pump keep the lever held in and using your (7mm, I believe) wrench, slowly open the bleeder valve until you see the fluid stop moving through the tube, then close the bleeder valve. 9) Slowly release the clutch lever to the fully extended position 10) Repeat step 8 and 9 until you see the fresh and clean fluid coming out of your hose. Make sure to keep an eye on your master cylinder window to make sure that you do not run out of fluid in the reservoir and start sucking air. If you do that, you'll have to bleed the system to get all the air out (and that can be a pain). This process works fine. I just did mine like this recently, it took maybe 30 minutes start to finish (including getting the tools out, jacking the bike up, fluid change, getting the bike off the jack and putting everything away). And I probably could have saved 10 minutes if I had a helper. Using this procedure to do the brakes goes MUCH faster, because with the brakes you do not have to do the repetitive pumping. It is just a pull lever, open bleed valve, close bleed valve release lever and repeat. Just remember to take it easy on that bleed valve, the torque spec is quite low, and that would be a bugger if you stripped it. :080402gudl_prv:

Looks good!! :thumsbup2:

Okay. I guess I didn't think about it all that hard. Still, as a personal preference, I'd like to keep the possible projectiles in the helmet to a minimum - but sounds like it is probably a non issue. As for the camera and projection/HUD deal - that would be pretty slick.

I've got a Utopia on my RSV, and am quite happy with it. I got a great deal on a used one from a member here, but new they go for ~200 (if I recall correctly). Very comparable to the Diamond R and much less than that 350 nonsense

Congratulations!!! Thank you and your family for the service and sacrifices you/they have made for this great country!! :325: