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LilBeaver

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  1. LilBeaver
    Okay, there were a few folks that mentioned they wanted to contribute so I held off so that they could do their part to (and to make my life easier of having a single withdrawl, from PayPal and the account it goes into). Anyways, I sent a note along with the donations to Lowell. The contents of the note read something very close to the following:
  2. LilBeaver
    My fluid is pretty fresh, but good to know. Thanks for the info.
  3. LilBeaver
    Oh whoops. I thought I had posted the 'conclusion'. I am pretty sure the cause of the non-operative lever was that my pressure plate was not seated properly (as goose had mentioned).
  4. LilBeaver
    Gotcha. Based on my understanding of the 'friction zone' and what causes it to be smaller (or larger for that matter) the only thing that would actually restore it would be to reduce the surface area of one (or some) of the friction discs them-selves - ie. go back to the stock 1/2 disc. I'll let-r-rip for a few weeks and see how it goes.
  5. LilBeaver
    Can one 'hijack' their own thread? hmm. :hijacked:
  6. LilBeaver
    A couple may vary depending on who you ask :banana: ---- As for the gear oil I picked up a quart (or so) of Mobil 1 Fully synthetic gear oil/final drive oil 75w-90 (it is the closest I could find to the recommended weight). It should take 6.4 fl oz from dry to full (0.2 U.S. Qt). SilvrT's method is basically what I do except I don't spill any oil .
  7. LilBeaver
    The main fuse for the bike is 30A. Therefore anything over 30A is above and beyond what is necessary. As for what the grips were, there is no way that the grips drew more than a few Amps. I would be hesitant to run through the existing switch without knowing exactly what the switch is capable of.
  8. LilBeaver
    Just got back from a spin around the block. Not a very thorough test run, but I pulled through the gears a few times and it feels okay. The first hard accell I thought it was the same as before until I glanced down at the speedo . It sure didn't take long to find 80. So up-shift twice and ease on back down to the speed limit. My friction zone has been cut in half, maybe a little more. That is, where I would have expected the clutch to be about 1/2 engaged it is now just beginning to engage. I need to spend some time in a parking lot getting used to this since during low speed maneuvering that is about where I would always sit. But, no big deal... for now. In terms of the stiffness of the lever, I didn't really notice a difference at all. Measuring the two plates, the one that was in there is a little bit thinner, but oh well. I guess I need to load up and take a 'real' test run... Few hundred miles and we'll see what it is like. So the 30 minute job took me a few hours. I guess that's what I get for being such a dumb-arse. Thanks Jack. 8 m-N is what the book calls for (which is ~70 in-lb). Snugging it up would probably have been fine. But I have the appropriate torque wrench and I'm just that kind of guy. Between the extra part and the pressure plate alignment, I've got it fixed. Good approach though! Thanks again for all of the quick responses! And THANKS to Skydoc for the info ahead of time and getting me the parts! You too Squid for the convo, advice, etc.
  9. LilBeaver
    Thanks all for the input. I got the other metal washer out, thanks to the help of a small magnet, the pack back in AND the pressure plate seated PROPERLY now. Now I have left is to put the outer cover back on. Lets hope for no leaks (and of course a properly functioning clutch). Thanks again for the input! Yes, I think I quadruple checked this in the manual and the instructions in the tech library because I saw that the specs were so low. When putting it on I ended up starting around 30 in-lb, and going up in steps of 15, then finished at 70 in-lb. Thanks though, that would have been an easy thing to miss.
  10. LilBeaver
    Thanks, i'll check that too. Back to the garage for a few...
  11. LilBeaver
    Okay. Back apart and sure enough, there it is. Based on the difficulty of getting it out (it is still on there, by the way) AND what the service manual shows, I had assumed [incorrectly apparently] that it was part of what it is 'stuck' to. :bang head: Thanks again. Hopefully this is it. And now that I have undone it and will button it back up again - hopefully the gasket is okay and won't leak.
  12. LilBeaver
    Okay these are the 'instructions' I was using/going by. Thanks. Now that I have finished my lunch, I'm going to step out to the garage and pull it all back apart to see if maybe I had missed one of those little ones in the back or something... Thanks a lot Sleeperhawk.
  13. LilBeaver
    I guess I am a little confused because I only see 1 of those very thin steel washers where Freebird's picture has 2. Hmm... Maybe I should just put it back like it was except for the spring. Dang-nabit. Edit: When I say all I 'see' I mean both on my bike AND in the service manual
  14. LilBeaver
    Which thread are you referring to? I will try bleeding off some fluid in a few minutes. #1 was not replaced with anything (shown on the top of the stack in the attached picture). #2 was replaced with a full friction disc (it looked identical to the rest of them in the clutch pack.
  15. LilBeaver
    Maybe this will be helpful. Left over parts: 1) Thin washer that is not quite flat (qty 1) 2) Friction disc that is about 1/2 the size of the rest of them (qty 1) 3) Retaining wire that was around the center of the inside of the clutch basket thing - holding in place a steel disc, 1/2 friction plate and a washer (qty 1)
  16. LilBeaver
    I did not remove any little 'plunger'... Obviously I screwed something up, otherwise I would be out riding right now instead of in here trying to figure out what I screwed up
  17. LilBeaver
    Son of a b. Below is from the instructions that were sent/in the 2nd gen tech library Okay so, am I reading this correctly: By replacing the 1/2 friction disc with a full friction disc the steel plate that was behind the wire WITH the 1/2 friction disc BOTH need to be removed (opposed to just the friction disc)?? And how many of those really thin steel washers should there be in there to begin with? - just one, I presume (based on the service manual).
  18. LilBeaver
    01 RSV clutch upgrade issue. So. I followed the instructions (or so I thought, I guess) replaced the half friction disc with the full one, removed the retaining wire and the spring/washer deeley, put it all back together as instructed (lining up all of the 'notches' in the friction discs, etc). Torqued the outer ring with the 6 bolts to the required 70 in-lb, re-installed gasket and cover and now my clutch lever is so stiff I can't even move it with both hands. Mind you, I tried with one hand and it didn't budge - I didn't squeeze much harder than that because I didn't want to break anything. What the crap. Any suggestions on what to check or what went wrong? I am baffled and a little honked.
  19. LilBeaver
    That is why I am staying tuned - I'm interested to hear from the folks on the extremes of the 'issue'...
  20. LilBeaver
    :happy65:
  21. LilBeaver
    Yet again:http://www.davevmagic.com/forumpix/popcorn.gif
  22. LilBeaver
    1978 Suzuki GS750E (I am the 2nd owner)
    Yup - it still surprises me sometimes when I get on it and really get into it. Fun bike. I wish that someone made a bike like this still.
  23. LilBeaver
    Really, you think lieing to the police is a good idea? Dan. Almost everyone else has already said it but I'll say it again. My hat is off to you. You are a good man. I cannot even begin to imagine what that must have felt like.
  24. LilBeaver
    Prayers sent for his family, friends, you and everyone else involved. Sorry for your loss.
  25. LilBeaver
    Warranty
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