LilBeaver
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Everything posted by LilBeaver
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Unless the horn doesn't go off AND the problem is on the ground side of the wiring. To be conclusive, complete the circuit right back to the battery (to the appropriate terminal of course). Other items to check would be the intake air passage on the horn - make sure it is clear.
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I guess I could have provided a little more support to my statement. My thinking is: 1) I personally would be more comfortable cold calling someone that is relatively active on the site (as I would assume the 'supporting member' status would indicate). 2) I sort of assume that the likelyhood of getting help, lodging or local information for that matter (since that is all included on the VR assistance list) from a member that hasn't been active in a long time (hence the no longer being a supporting member) would be pretty slim. And quite frankly, I don't know that I would be comfortable cold calling them since it would have been their choice to not be a part of this family anymore... I noticed, as I compiled the subset of the list that I had with me for my last trip, that I ended up with many many many pages of folks that had, at some point, said 'yes' to the VR assistance and upon further inspection it seemed like less than 20% of the folks on the list had been active in the last several months. So, that is why I asked. I definitely see advantages to having it either way: 1) A much more concise list of recent/active members 2) A much larger list with the thought of the more people available/on the list the more likely you are to get some help if needed --- But the logic of that I believe isn't very solid.
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Is this updated VRAssistance list going to include the bajillion people that are already on there or will it just be the 'supporting' members?
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Wish I could help you out, as I wouldn't mind helping out a friend and riding something a bit newer with lower miles... But I simply don't have the Best of luck to you - hopefully someone will take it off your hands before it actually goes to repo...
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Glad it turned out to be something simple. And yes, having the know how to field strip tweety there, is good reassurance - just in case it would be necessary. Don't worry, I am sure that are ARE in-fact, the ONLY ONE to have ever made such a mistake... By the way, I've got some ocean front property in Utah available for purchase and 70 Quadrillion dollars that can be yours if you help me get it out of my Nigerian bank account.
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As others have mentioned, I too would suggest going with a new one. Regardless of the fact that I suspect that it will be QUITE difficult to find a used one. Don't forget to replace the regulator/rectifier unit with the appropriate high-output one in addition to making the appropriate hard wired connections instead of using the connectors.
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Your local autoparts store ought to have a hefty supply of the gas-shocks on hand. You can choose the appropriate weight rating for your trailer need. Another thought would be simply attaching a 'prop rod' like setup - mount it to the inside of the lid with a bracket of some sort for it to rest in the 'stowed' position. Then when you want to use it, open the lid and pivot the thing down; bada-bing.
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I don't know where you are finding this $900 figure . Last I priced them out, the most expensive I found was 675 or so (no thank you local stealer). Least expensive was ~450 + shipping. Of course this is all USD - BUT, the USD and CAD are about the same now. My works shock was $702.88 to my doorstep. Regardless - sounds like the 12 month parts warranty thing is the way to go. Even though it is a little bit of a haul for you.
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Nope, nothing new - just a few responses. Wow. This pretty much hits the nail right on the head. Better watch it though, too many of us 'sciency' people around and who knows what'll happen Thank you very much for your input - I really do think that your explanation fits quite well with how I have been 'feeling' about this whole thing. Well fine then - don't worry about it I will keep this thread updated with the pertinent information about rides, etc. - how's that? As far as the 'boyfriend' goes, he hasn't really come up. As I mentioned before, I have been quite busy and while we have chatted, I haven't asked and she hasn't mentioned - so, as far as I'm concerned it is none of my business unless she wants it to be or until another ride comes up. I don't pretend to understand you wimmun folk , but I have learned the hard way [a few times] that I need to keep my guard up more - but since I have not been looking for anything more than friends to begin with seems like a fine way to keep from getting hurt. I appreciate the concern and knowing that you've got my back Well put. LOL. Thanks - With the way things seem to be going for me the 'ship' sighting land would be a nice step in the right direction... -
Well - sorry to disappoint, but nothing really. I have been working my tail off. I am getting ready for a defense of my project/research proposal. This will be the last presentation and submission to my advisory committee before I submit and have to defend my dissertation. So, I have been a bit focused lately. I have been so busy I haven't even snuck out for a ride on my own since... well... Since the last post here about a ride actually. My friend and I have chatted some here and there about kinds of bikes and what all she's interested in and such, she seems to be leaning more towards a cruiser but still hasn't found the 'right' bike for her yet (she has also been a bit too busy to do any shopping on her own other than poking around on the internet). We've talked about buzzing over to a few dealerships to take a look at what is available and such but haven't really taken the time to do so yet (mostly because of my schedule; but again, her schedule is a bit crazy too). Don't worry Brian - I'll update with the pertinent info
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Okay, so this may be quite basic but about what speed are you at that you are rolling on the throttle in 3rd or 5th? Is it possible that you are just lugging the engine? Seeing as these motors are really designed for peak performance in the upper rev range the behavior that you have described (especially after 'undoing' the holes you punched out and finding the same behavior) sort of seems to me like this may be what is going on. I do realize that you say you have been working on cars and bikes for a long time, but if you are used to V-twins, that could be part of the problem. For what it is worth, on an RSV one can do ~94 in 3rd gear - I don't usually shift out of 1st until ~20. I don't usually get out of 4th unless I'm doing 65 or 70. I can duplicate the symptoms that you describe by getting up to about 45 or 50, get into 5th, then roll on the throttle really hard (it will buck and complain and not really start going well until getting up to 75 or 80, and even then I can drop it into 4th and really take off). Similarly with 3rd around 20 except that it will eventually really take off in 3rd. The other possibility that comes to mind is that maybe a bad [or intermittent] coil. Just trying to offer some additional perspective here. Oh, for what it is worth, my local autozone carries the NGK DPR8EA-9 plugs. I presume other shops do to, but I've never investigated them because autozone has them at a decent price and they are the only ones that haven't (thus far) given me a good reason to not shop there (compared to NAPA, advanced auto, O'Reilies, etc).
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brake light issue
LilBeaver replied to RoyalStarRider's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Have you checked over the grounds and such? If all else fails and have a reliable dealer in a decent range - you're on an 06 -- warranty that sucka. -
Nope. This one stays at the house. :rasberry:
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I prefer the horn operated version. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2pVtnz6C0Y]YouTube- Motorcycle garage door opener[/ame]
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This is a great idea! I've been considering doing something similar, but the time and resources are two things that I have not allocated for the project yet.
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It is important to note that the differences in a 'Breathalyzer' and a PBT and when each is administered. The breathalyzer as well as urine or blood tests to estimate/determine the current level of intoxication are typically used (in cases of 'driving under the influence', 'impaired driving', 'driving while intoxicated', etc etc) after a subject has been determined, beyond reasonable doubt, to be above the legal limit. The PBT (portable breath test) which is mistakenly (but commonly) referred to as a breathalyzer, is the [typically] small hand-held unit that is used during the 'field sobriety test' on the side of the road (for example). Unless the PBTs meet certain standards and provide the specific print out, the results from it are inadmissible in court BY THEM SELVES as total proof of intoxication level. That is, the results may be reported in the police (arrest) report but are rarely used for anything other than additional support to the on-scene tests to provide enough information to go ahead and start the arrest process. So, once you are in the process of being arrested, if you refuse to take the breathalyzer you THEN can be penalized - in Texas and Illinois it is an automatic 6 month suspension of your driver's license. This business with having the 'warrants ready to go' or whatever I am unclear on what the story actually is in Texas. In Illinois, anytime I had someone refuse if I knew they were close enough that it would make or break the case, I would simply make the call to the prosecutor and usually within a few minutes I would have the approval to take the suspect to the hospital to get blood drawn (which is more accurate anyway). Realistically though, on almost all of my DUI stops, if I had made an arrest the blood tests, breathalyzer, etc while it was helpful, it was rarely necessary to actually have the conviction stick. Just some extra info here hopefully it provides some insight to what this really means. I realize technology has improved and some departments have waaaaay higher budgets than mine did so it is likely that there are many PBTs out on the road that provide the appropriate accuracy and printed information to be fully admissible and useful in court. So my apologies if what I have written has been rendered irrelevant by newer standards, it has been a couple years since I have been in a squad car.
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I rode on a bad shock for 2+ months before I finally replaced it. It seems to me that everyone's 'rear shock going bad' situation seems to vary in the severity of how much it affects the bike. I found with mine if I was driving along straight and level it seemed okay. If I hit bumps at any lean what-so-ever while leaned over, I did notice it. Also, at times, it made handling somewhat more difficult, but use your own judgment and most importantly BE CAREFUL.
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Ruffy took the words right away from my fingers, but I'll say it again too. Everyone has already said it, but glad you two are okay-ish. I also hope that you can manage to find some way to continue to enjoy your trip. At least you two are together : ) Anyways, hope the healing goes well and as painless as possible.
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I know the feeling of those days getting closer and closer, watching the weather and hoping that everything holds out. I'll tell ya that I'm jealous and excited for you two. I hope your trip goes great, good weather, good roads, good riding, and good times visiting the folks you'll meet up with along the way! As for you getting the rain now... well, I'm glad it is happening NOW instead of during the month of JULY but maybe that is a little selfish of me... and have a great/safe trip!
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So what is the purpose of a crotch rocket on the street?
LilBeaver replied to 1 Canuck's topic in Watering Hole
* A lot. A good friend of mine has a CBR F4i, and we ride together a lot. He is capable of 300-500 mile days with only mild discomfort. He loves his bike and loves to ride. He likes it because of it being so lightweight, easy to handle and he finds it enjoyable to ride. I have ridden it a few times and it does drive very nice, overall they really are nice bikes; but with my knees and back it is just not my cup of tea for an extended ride. As mentioned, I too seen idiots on all sorts of bikes. I have been passed in my lane on either side of me by the crotch rockets, HDs, etc. All that said, there are a lot of idiots driving 4 wheeled (or worse yet, the rental trucks or some of the 18 wheelers out there). I understand the point of the original poster - and this is going astray, so I will stop. -
Keep a healthy coat of wax on it and you should be fine.
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clicking noise, 2nd gen.
LilBeaver replied to steamer's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
That is the turbo switching off. -
A quick way to identify any extraneous leakage is to measure the current in the system as described above (with the ignition in the OFF position either with an ammeter IN-LINE between the positive terminal on the battery and the cable that pluggs into the battery OR pull the main fuse and properly probe the fuse holder with your ammeter). Then, leaving the meter connected pull the 'back up' fuse (don't worry reverse will work the same as it did before) and note the drop in current. It should drop to 0 mA. That is Zero, nada, zilch. As Ruffy mentioned above, check the rectifier/regulator plug - and if it were me, I would pull the plug myself and look at it, take pictures, THEN take it to the dealer (especailly if I found any corrosion or 'burnt' signatures on the connectors). It is a ~10 minute job to remove and reinstall the regulator/rectifier. Other items, which may or may not have been mentioned - but since I am writing this: 1) check resistance of stator - method outlined in shop manual along with the resistance tolerance -- the white plug is a little difficult to find since it will be covered in road grime, but if you were to be able to drop a weighted string almost to the bottom of the bike from the bolt that holds the tank on under the seat, you would hit the connector. 2) check for wires that pass through the triple tree (especially if you have passing lamps) look for any bare wires or pinched wires 3) .. I'll stop here for now since there is already plenty of good info here. :080402gudl_prv: for what it is worth, you broght this issue up while you bike was under warranty and the problem was evidently NOT fixed. So I wouldn't worry too much about your bike NOT being covered for this issue come next week. Now, I suspect it might not be fun to deal with afterwords, but, there you go.
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Under circumstances as described (2 lane country road) where there is little to no shoulder and there isn't really a safe place to pull off, I will stick with flashing my brake lights in the following pattern . . . _ _ _ . . . I doubt anyone gets it, but hey - maybe someday. Repeating that a few times and if it is still a no go, I will flip on the hazards and GENTLY (but with the brake lights lit) slow down to say 10 mph or so under the posted speed limit (presuming it would be safe for them to pass - regardless of the roadway markings), and attempt to wave them around. If I am driving in a more populated area I will slow slightly under the posted limit (or the safe travel speed) to give myself 2 or 3 times my normal 'comfort zone' between me and the next vehicle in front of me and just keep riding while keeping a sharp eye on the perp in the mirrors as well as constantly scanning for the 'out' just in case it is necessary (I say that, but really, It is good practice to do this ALL of the time, regardless of the circumstances). I bid everyone safe dodging