Jump to content

LilBeaver

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,972

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by LilBeaver

  1. LilBeaver
    Actually you have a really good question here and I am quite curious as to what this "crime advisory" thing is and what it is supposed to achieve. I have only been through Flint a few times [for various reasons] and actually looked at going to school for an Engineering degree there at Kettering (formerly GMI - my dad went there for his Business/Marketing degree). Anyhoo the city wasn't really for me. Best of luck to you there.
  2. LilBeaver
    Just as a heads up, the Mark II is still a 1st gen (86-93 if I recall correctly - I'm sure if I am wrong some first gen guy will correct me). The "2nd" gen refers to the 99-11+ Royal Star Ventures
  3. LilBeaver
    Huh. I'm not really sure how to take this considering the souper-source. :think: Yup that extra 2 seconds it takes to peek at the end could save lots of time, money and frustration 'not so far' down the road... Just make sure your fingers are off the 'trigger' before you peak; I hear most ladies aren't really into the eyepatch thing...
  4. LilBeaver
    Okay so I think I could have been a little more careful in my original post. Ablumny: I see where it could be handy with those goofy accordion nozzle dealies and also if you like to use the 'click off' feature of the pump. I DO [now] understand the advantage that this contraption provides. What I thought of when I saw the picture and description: I just had a mental image of some goofus sticking the nozzle ALL the way in, pulling on the handle and having it click off before it the tank is full. Then proceed to NOT be able to figure out why he can't get any more gass to go into the tank (mostly because a few weeks ago I was out with a relatively new rider and watched him do it at the time of the fill up - and was amazed at how easy it was for me to fill up my bike...). Now, in addition to my twisted sense of humor, I have been running on very little sleep for the past few weeks so I guess I have been finding some pretty tame things to be awfully amusing. After re-reading my origional post I think that it may have been interpreted as folks that choose to use it are lacking something upstairs - That is NOT what I had meant by it out to be anything other than how I just described above. ----- Personally, and maybe I'm just a goof, I like to watch the fuel come out of the nozzle and go into my tank. It gives me a chance to keep an eye out for any large chunks of debris, discolorations, etc. I also usually inspect the end of the nozzle before sticking it in my tank. I had the pleasure of pulling up to a fuel nozzle caked with dirt/mud once and I will never make that mistake again... Anyways, back on topic - sorry about the diversion.
  5. LilBeaver
    LOL :crackup: #2: Really people aren't smart enough to NOT do this when they are filling up their bike?!? http://www.mccuff.com/assets/images/005-a.jpg BUT, since Paul Sr. says so, it must be cool... With respect to answering your question about allowing a venture to fill up past the filler neck (avoiding the air pockets that were built into the design of our tank); I strongly suspect that this product will have no effect on it at all. Since the 'issue' with our bikes is that the 'built in' areas for the air pockets (vented with the one vent tube out the top right (sitting on the bike) side of the tank are there and a non-vented filler neck extends below those levels - what prevents us from filling 'all of the way up' is the time it takes for the air to escape through the vent hose out of the top of the tank. If one vents their filler neck, then the air pockets are able to escape through the vent holes in the filler neck as well as the top of the tank. It appears that this product is aimed for the simple ease of the folks that set the nozzle IN the tank and let-r-rip instead of the folks that actually hold on to it and watch the fuel fill up. Hope that helps.
  6. LilBeaver
    That certainly makes sense; I should have asked a long time ago. Thanks. Wait, so after 30 days we are no longer 'welcome' here anymore?!? I see how it is. :witch_brew:
  7. LilBeaver
    Sounds like a reasonable way to go Don. Question: Can individual users delete their own threads? I've tried a few times now and don't see how to do it. Am I missing something or is that a feature that us normal users do not have access to? Thanks A lot!
  8. LilBeaver
    Well for one, I have mine wired up with my High-beam. Secondly, and even if they weren't wired up to the high-beams I don't care how the lights are aimed if the person in the on-coming vehicle doesn't have a clean windshield, any light will cause distortion through the bugs, grime, scratches, etc so I sort of figure that keeping that to a minimum is a good way to go. I guess maybe my eyes might be a little more sensitive to light than others, but I know there are times when I drive, at night, with a dirty windshield (in my truck) this happens to me, regardless of what type of lights the oncoming vehicle has. Some lights are much MUCH worse than others but all have some of an effect. This does encourage me to keep the windshield clean (or just ride the bike instead).
  9. LilBeaver
    Absolutely NOT. While I like to be visible, I don't want to blind the oncoming drivers... That just seems like a suicide wish.
  10. LilBeaver
    not to pick......but if there were a short to ground between fuse panel and the headlamp circuit then you would surely have a blown fuse..... on the other hand i completely agree that there may be something 'open' in there...just my penny's worth. another suggestion (the old fashioned way) either remove the headlamp or if lamp is in place......run a hot wire from battery to center conductor on bulb and a ground to casing of bulb, if lamp is good it will illuminate if not then replace the lamp....otherwise work backwards from the lamp connector until you find where you are loosing power. also make certain you have a ground to your lamp...... just some thoughts - You are correct. I should have been more careful with my statement. The point has been made though so I won't re-hash it just to prove that I can type a lot of words. - Running a lead straight from the battery to he headlamp harness would be a good idea - that could conclusively determine whether the headlight harness/jack/socket (whatever you want to call it) is functional or not. - The 'headlight off while the starter button is pressed' is NOT a standard option on the 2nd gen. Some have re-wired appropriately, but, as an OEM configuration it is not setup that way. - The current for the headlight DOES go through the ignition. So does the current for the radio, amp, dash lights, signals, etc. SO, if it was an ignition switch problem he would not have power to the noted accessories in addition to the headlamp.
  11. LilBeaver
    Huh, interesting about the 'reserve lighting unit'. As far as I know the 2nd gen does not have that installed (at least from OEM). If your test light comes on at the fuse panel but not at the headlamp connector you have no power at the headlamp then you have a short to ground somewhere between the two or there is a break in continuity between the headlamp and the rest of the circuit. Do your passing lamps come on? *** OH - Check where you spliced your lamps in to the headlamp circuit. My guess is something came loose in there. If that is a no go, my suggestion would be to go ahead and test at the switch and see if you have power passing through the switch.
  12. LilBeaver
    As far as the craigslist and ebay issue goes, how about a single thread dedicated to craigslist ads? Then another one for Ebay ads? As for posting items are for sale vs the classifieds here are my quick thoughts. First of all I occasionally visit another forum that does not have a classifieds section, rather they all post when they have their crap to sell. At first I thought it was okay, but after a while it just gets annoying. I am guilty of making a thread here to indicate that I have something to sell, however, it has been a while since I have done that and now that I realize how annoying it is I certainly will not be doing that anymore. My reasons for posting a thread about whatever item I was selling was to increase the visibility of said item. However, I'll sacrifice the extra visibility as to not saturate the forum with my crap that 99.9% of the people trying to read the forum have to skip over. For what it is worth, I really like the classifieds section and hope that it doesn't go anywhere.
  13. LilBeaver
    Reserve switch? Like when your headlight is running low on fluid so you can switch it over to reserve and still go a little further? :stickpoke: Okay, So I have no idea what you mean by the reserve switch - but that beside the point. Kidding aside a little clarification on these points ought to help diagnose your problem. 1) You checked the Hi/low switch - How did you do this? Did you check for continuity at the connector? Disassemble and visually inspect? etc -- With mine, I had found that if I push it about half way my headlamp goes out completely. I disassembled the housing and cleaned the contacts, and it works like a charm now. 2) You checked the fuse - did you visually inspect the fuse or put a known good one in to verify that it isn't working properly? If all you did was visually inspect it, I would suggest replacing with a known good fuse just to verify it isn't the fuse. 3) While you are in the fuse box, look very carefully for any buildup of corrosion, etc You could also take a voltage measurement at the fuse box with the key in the ON position to see if you are getting power to the box. 4) If your switch has continuity on both high and low the next thing I would check would be at the headlamp connector itself. Go there and probe the voltage between the Positive side of the connector and a ground on the bike somewhere (that isn't in the headlamp connector). This will check to see if the problem exists BEFORE or AFTER the headlamp wiring (ie between headlamp and ground). You could also check for continuity between the Positive lead on the headlamp connector with the fuse box it self. Again, this ought to help isolate where an electrical problem may be. 5) Lastly, after a quick inspection of the wiring diagrams (thanks Dingy, awesome job!) I don't see any relay or anything for the headlamp - so this circuity ought to be relatively easy to trace. BUT, if the problem exists in one of the main harness or whatever, I would definitely suggest letting the dealer replace that puppy under warranty. Hope this make some sense.
  14. LilBeaver
    I realize you feel for the guy but the fact of the matter is stuff may not have been done properly and he wants to make it right. My suggestion would be to look over it as much as you can on your own to figure out what else might be goofed up then take it to him and let him make it right. If you really feel for him, when you take your bike in letting him know that you understand that stuff happens and that you are okay with it taking a little bit of time to get your bike back to you I am sure would be appreciated on his end. Likely he'll want your bike IN and OUT as fast as possible to 1) make sure you come back and give him your business again 2) get your bike off his floor so that he can go back to working on stuff that will bring in the money 3) If he is an honest business man (which it sounds like he is a credible guy based on what you've said so far) HE will want to make sure that you are satisfied with the end result and will do what you paid him to do and whatever else it takes to make it right. My family owned a body shop for several years and I helped out with it in all aspects. I painted, did body work, sanded masked, detailed, swept the floors, kept the books, sales, babysit the incompetent employees until we could get them out, help support the few good employees we found, etc. Our body guys got paid when the job left the shop and passed the customer inspection. Mostly because that is when the shop got paid, and that's just how it works. The few exceptions to that rule was if there was a very large (time consuming job) that one of the better guys (that we KNEW did good work) was working on, frequently for those we would go ahead and give them a fair amount for that week - that way they would actually go home with a check that week. For the rest of the guys, they complained about it BUT it protected US for situations like you are in right now. We would have a few days to NOT pay the body guy (or pro-rate the job as required) just in case. This saved are rumpuses, more than a few times, from having to completely pay for a job to be done twice thanks to some a-hole that didn't give a rip about what he was doing. We did get burned a few times too BUT it is an unfortunate part of doing business. Our goal was to make sure that we completed the job to surpass the customer's expectations. So, for the jobs that needed to be re-worked or the few that came back to us, we made sure we told the customer exactly what was going on and what we were going to do to rectify it. Yes, we had a few that came in and thought yelling at us was going to get them somewhere. Most customers didn't mind waiting another day or two for their job to be done RIGHT. Yes, we lost money on having to do then redo a job. BUT, it is all part of doing business. We had a lot of repeat customers too (with their other vehicles or unrelated incidents), so that tells us that we must have been doing something right. Point of all of my yammering is you shouldn't feel bad about taking your bike back to him and having him/the shop go over it again. Especially since he offered and it was HIS responsibility to do it correctly the first time. just my . Well maybe more like :2cents::2cents:
  15. LilBeaver
    HA. Right, because it isn't too late for that or anything
  16. LilBeaver
    Make sure that when you do compress the pistons you press them evenly all the way around. What I do is hang on to an old pad or two and put the old one on of the pistons and put pressure on the old pad - to try to ensure equally applied pressure on all parts of the pistons (and to not mess up the new pad). Also, make sure you clean those pistons really well BEFORE compressing them back into the caliper. You really don't want that kind of crap buildup to make its way into your caliper, the fluid or to create an issue with the seals.
  17. LilBeaver
    Actually, to me it sounds like they were honest with you about the work load and whatnot. Unfortunately, in reality, crimes do need to be prioritized and with limited resource, there is only so much a department can do. The department I used to work for had 14 full time officers (which included 3 command and one chief). We had an investigator (not a detective). This ONE investigator was a plain clothes officer that while not assisting the 1-2 street officers that were on duty at a time, would attempt to actually work whatever cases needed to be worked. In the town of 15-20k people, that was a lot of work for him. He loved it but he worked non-stop, it was crazy. Unfortunately there were quite a few petty theft type reports that had to go untouched because there were much more pressing matters to deal with. Condor - sorry to hear about the loss, it sucks to be done like that; but sounds like this guy has more problems to deal with. +1 to the filing a report immediately when it occurs. IF anything, as a just in case they thief gets busted later, you never know - you may just get it back. It sounds like you have gone through the proper channels to get it back and kudos for not tipping the guy off that you are on to him. Typically with theft if the thief gets tipped off at all the item will make its one way trip to the dumpster and you'll never see it again. The parole officer route, however, could be an interesting way to go. Although I suspect if there was any reasonable follow up at all, the detective you spoke with has probably already made that call.
  18. LilBeaver

    OEM Air Filter

    LilBeaver replied to a topic in Watering Hole

    Partshark has them for 22.94 each. The Yamaha dealer linked to in post #2 has it for the same price. For some reason I was thinking it was 80-100 for the set. OH OH. That was at my Local Yamahahaha shop; I remember now.
  19. LilBeaver
    Thank you ALL for your service and sacrifice!
  20. LilBeaver
    The bike has a 5 year unlimited mileage warranty - So yea, it ought to get fixed properly. I don't see how them connecting it your lights through a different wire would make any difference unless they shorted a hot lead to ground and even then, those are only hot when the key is in the ON position. But hey, what do I know? Regardless, I hope the problem gets figured out.
  21. LilBeaver
    Good info here but It sounds like it is the LEDs that are causing the interference (ie some folks have no issues with the LEDs off, but they have problems with them ON - If I am interpreting the comments correctly). Thanks for your expertise
  22. LilBeaver
    I think he mentioned in the other thread that he would take some pictures when he got it home. Maybe he is out enjoying it and ignoring our pointless arguments here that have graciously hijacked his thread. :hijacked: Arr matey.
  23. LilBeaver
    It is really hard for me to say one way or the other without actually looking at it myself. I suspect, that if you can feel it [rather easily] - which is my interpretation of your 'can definitely feel it' then using this 'clear coat' pen MAY improve the look but it will not remove the scratch completely. Personally, I wouldn't waste the money on it (but again, I have the tools and experience to rub these things out on my own ) - If you want to spend money on something that will make sure to greatly improve the affected area, take your bike to a body shop with some CASH in hand - ask them to look at it and if possible for 'a best effort' rub and polish to try to remove the scratch. Provided the shop guy(s) know what they are doing it should take less than 10 minutes to at least IMPROVE the look of it, if not remove the signs of the scratch all together. With that said, if you do try this little pen deal, you might get lucky and have the scratch go away enough for you to be content. I guess the worst case with this pen deal is that you try it and it doesn't improve anything at all - so you are just out whatever it cost to buy it. If you want to post a picture of it or e-mail me a few high res photos of the affected area and I can try to make a better guess as to what it may take to get rid of the scratch. I hope this has been helpful to you
  24. LilBeaver
    This is pretty much accurate. Typically if you can 'feel' the scratch with your fingernail it is too deep for one of these pen/quick fix thingies to actually remove the mark completely. If the scratch is all the way through the clear and into the color (or to the metal) they, as Dave said, all you are doing is 'filling' in without actually repairing anything but the missing clear. A very fine rubbing compound would do the same thing as one of these fancy snake oil pens. If you can just barely feel the scratch, or it is quite small, you MAY be able to rub it out with some compound - at best you ought to be able to make it not quite as obvious. The other way to tell if you can rub it out or if one of these 'fix it' pens will work is if the scratch looks 'white' in addition to not really being able to feel it. The 'white' that you see is actually the disturbed clear. Rubbing compound 'moves around' the existing clear to smooth out the surface. These pens just 'fill in' the missing clear - or at least a reasonable approximation to that. Source: Running a body shop and painting cars for a few years.
  25. LilBeaver
    There, I fixed your obvious typo.
×
×
  • Create New...