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LilBeaver

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Everything posted by LilBeaver

  1. LilBeaver
    I am no expert but a while ago, I too played this game so maybe I can be of some help. Lots of good ideas so far and I am just going to sort of type as I think through this so I may repeat some of the ideas/suggestions above but I will try to be very complete as well. First and foremost if you did not start these tests with a fully charged battery, your results (as presented) are mostly inconclusive. A few of the numbers stick out. 1) You claim no voltage difference between 'idling' and when the motor is 'revved'. This IS a problem - UNLESS you didn't rev it very much. On the RSV, (which I believe the 05 and later RSTDs are more or less identical except for some of the cosmetics) the motor needs to be turning at least 5000 RPM or so to give the meaningful reading. Turning at 5k RPM a properly functioning system should read a [terminal] voltage (measured at the leads on the battery) somewhere between 13.6V and 14.2V. This should actually be more or less independent of the charge state of your battery. 2) Condor already mentioned (and you already addressed) the no drop when cranking, so no further comment is necessary. Your 'lack of power' situation was repeated, which does strongly suggest a real problem with the charging system. Off the top of my head I can only come up with a few likely culprits (in no particular order): 1) Bad stator 2) Improperly functioning rectifier/regulator 3) Poor connection to ground 4) Bad/issue with battery In order to help pinpoint your problem the following checks would be quite helpful, again in no particular order: 1) Change out the battery with a fresh and fully charged one (You have already done this, obviously, and the problem still persists - which either you got a 'dud' replacement [unlikely, but possible] or the problem still remains) 2) Check the resistance of the stator coils. This is done via the 'white' connector plug located in front of the battery box and fuel filter about halfway down the frame. I was able to see mine after flushing the wiring out with electrical cleaner. It was a bit of a pain to get to, but I could reach it without removing any parts (On second thought I may have had the three 'battery covers' already off and out of the way for this). The resistance should be somewhere between 0.279 and 0.341 OHms (when the ambient temperature is near 70F). 3) Inspect the connector plug for the regulator/rectifier unit and make sure that the pins make a firm connection in the female side of the plug. Some have found (me included) that the connection is very loose and thereby causes some problems with the unit actually functioning properly. Just because you do not see any evidence of 'burnt connectors' or any discoloration does not necessarily mean that the connection is good (unfortunately). You should feel a 'firm' connection between the male and female ends of the harness. 4) Inspect the main grounds (down by the horn, under the front plastic 'collar' on the brake side of the bike just below the ignition switch ***MAY be different on the RSTD) to the bike as well as the main connections at the fuse boxes (ESPECIALLY the main 30A fuse). Make sure all of the connections are CLEAN and reasonably sung. 5) You could also do a check for any trace of AC voltage across the battery terminals; this would definitely indicate that you've got a problem with the regulator/rectifier unit. 6) repeat your voltage measurements ensuring that you start with a fully charged battery and that your 'rev test' involves revving the motor to at least 5k RPM. The most critical (and easiest) to do to be reasonably conclusive is numbers 2, 5 and 6. Although important, a little more difficult would be number 3 and 4. If you do at least 2, 5 and 6 and report back with your findings we can help confirm your problem from there. Best of luck to you, I hope this was helpful.
  2. LilBeaver
    +1 for the flat blacking them. I've seen this on one RSV and it looked great and seemed to work well. The other plus to that is that it is cheap and easy. Two things I like in a wom... I mean two things I like in a 'fix'.
  3. LilBeaver
    Sounds like a good ride! By the way, I just might know someone who would have been perfectly willing to give either of them a decent ride when he was up there... I'm just sayin
  4. LilBeaver
    I just saw this. Thoughts and prayers continue to be sent for you, your family and close friends. Hope all continues to work out in your favor. Gdspeed.
  5. LilBeaver
    Thanks for rubbing it in... show off.
  6. LilBeaver
    I'm interested in the chaps and have been searching but cannot find any sizing information. Would you mind doing some measurements to try to figure out (at least approximately) what they might work out to be. Min/Max waist, thigh and overall length ought to be enough information. Thanks!
  7. LilBeaver
    Who's that old guy she is going with, ! hope she has a good (and safe) time!
  8. LilBeaver
    Oh yeah, just in case I didn't mention it before: :witch_brew: :witch_brew: :witch_brew: I am pretty sure that you sent me a version of this before as well - around the time that someone had requested it in the other thread I believe. I really don't care, I just wanted to try to harass you a little bit and I think it worked. Now, back to my laboratory... mwa ha ha. (What you don't know is that I am really in a laboratory... working instead of riding )
  9. LilBeaver
    Wish I could afford to take the time and spend the money on this ride - What a trip that would be I enjoy long rides...
  10. LilBeaver
    I see how it is... The original thread was even YOURS! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56189 Looks great, very cool. Much nicer than what I had come up with, that is for sure.
  11. LilBeaver
    That would work. If it were me and I 1) had the time and 2) had it up on the lift already, I'd just pop that rear wheel off do the lube, check the adjustment and if it fixed it great if it didn't then take it in (and you would know that it is properly greased in there). Regardless though, I concur that it is something that the warranty should take care of, no question about it.
  12. LilBeaver
    Have you greased up the rear end pins - I forget what they are called, but I seem to remember the 'clicking/crunching' being associated with the 6 (or so) pins that go into the rear wheel from the differential. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=15576&postcount=1 Here check this out.
  13. LilBeaver
    They should just slide right off. The million dollar word is 'should'. The caliper bolts on my RSV are the hex head (allen key) ones, not to be confused with the 'standard' bolt type that hold the entire assembly together. You may need to open the bleed valve so that you can compress the pistons a little to work them off. Under normal operating conditions this step ought to be un-necessary but if you are sure you have the correct bolts out and that the calipers just won't budge, this would be my next step. After all, there are really only 2 things that would prevent the calipers from coming off and [in theory] you have already removed one of them [the bolts].
  14. LilBeaver
    When I first started riding this bike, especially since it doesn't have a tach, I made a point of counting. It did not take long for me to be able to correlate the sound of the engine to my speed and then know what gear I am in. So, I don't think I explicitly count anymore but I know what gear I am in when it counts. I don't know if that answers your question or not but that is what I 'do'.
  15. LilBeaver
    AWESOME NEWS Dave!!! Happy you've got it back! As for the not getting paid on a warranty thing or whatever, quite frankly that is THEIR problem NOT yours. HOWEVER, unfortunately sometimes that is all franchisees can do is pass the responsibility on to the customer. Especially on a 'big ticket' deal like this. Lots and lots of time went into your bike that could have been spent raking in the dough on ail changes and such... Regardless, YOU have the bike now, so that counts for something. Hopefully they did a nice job with everything and actually did what is listed on that long list of stuff. As for the loose battery cable - poor electrical connections can do ALL SORTS of fun stuff. So who the heck knows. Now keep all of your parts INSIDE the motor this time, eh?
  16. LilBeaver
    I see, too bad I don't have this problem on my RSV but thought that maybe it would help...
  17. LilBeaver
    Party in Conroe, eh? Call the pygmies!
  18. LilBeaver
    Have you considered putting a few vents in the windshield? That could possibly help break the vacuum that is developed from the turbulent air passing over and around the windshield. There are some round vents that are rather easy to install and on the order of ~15 a piece. That might be worth a go. See Post #5 in this thread http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59011
  19. LilBeaver
    Ha. Nice. :happy65:
  20. LilBeaver
    Meh - I'll stick with my 32LED Cluster - It was plug and done. The LED board was held in place by the lens housing screws and the wiring for the board just plugged right into the standard light bulb socket. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=493502&postcount=25
  21. LilBeaver
    My rear pads have been wearing evenly.
  22. LilBeaver
    I would say Anything less than ~12.4V or so for Idle and as an absolute minimum when running. I cannot say specifically for the 1st gen, but for what it is worth, the RSV service manual specifies that the measured voltage should be 13.6 or higher when turning 3000 RPM. I believe the specified range is 13.6-14.2 but it has been a while since I have looked. By the way, I hope that your charger has an automatic cut-off for when the battery is fully charged if you are actually leaving it on 2A for 24 hours! Also, what kind of voltmeter did you install [if it is analog there may be an offset in the 'printed' numbers vs the actual reading]? Have you 'calibrated' it by verifying the reading IT gives you with one done via a trusted voltmeter?
  23. LilBeaver
    That is a tough break or maybe I have just been lucky. I have only ordered a few things from them and each were as pictured/shown in their videos and functioned as they claimed they would. One was the handlebar radio controller and the other was the fuel sending unit. I really don't like to use them because of the shipping cost. Anyways, there may be less expensive sources than partshark or maybe even if you investigate the different years of bikes; that price was from the 2010. Also, is your bike still under warranty? If I recall correctly it is a US bike but you have it in Canada. I wonder if you'd be able to work something out with a dealer next time you head back to the states. Anyways, best of luck to ya!
  24. LilBeaver
    Yes, accessed from under the tank - When you flip the tank over you can't miss it. Yes, 4 small screws and it all comes out that tiny little hole. I found it a bit tricky to get it out though, it took A LOT of rotating and finagling; but be gentle and take your time you will eventually find the proper orientation. It really is that simple. This seems reasonable. I picked mine up from Pinwall for $10+ S&H (which I think was around 12). New through partshark: $78.81+S&H, Yamaha OEM P/N 1D6-85752-00-00
  25. LilBeaver
    Oh boy. Sorry to hear that. Hopefully they'll shake off all of those pygmies before they get it back to you... I guess the upside is that it has been covered under warranty, eh? / Sent from my pooter using my fingers and keyboard
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