LilBeaver
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Everything posted by LilBeaver
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I get that a lot too. My response is usually, "I could ask you the same thing about your car" or something like that. The look on their face is usually worth a chuckle...
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Sounds like fun!
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HA. Well I suppose that is ONE way to keep it shut. I guess some of us 'older folk' actually still use the cassette so that isn't really an option for me... I imagine someone will have one laying around...
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One could always ask for a picture of the odometer. Frankly, I don't understand why people don't do that. Who knows... maybe an honest mistake/typo, maybe a scammer. Too bad e-bay didn't catch that too...
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Higher mileage scaring me? Should it?
LilBeaver replied to paai1993's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Well, most of it has already been said but what the hay, I'll reiterate and share my perspective here. My original plan when I bought my 01 (it had ~25k miles on it) was to sell it before I crested 50k and replace it with another as to minimize the depreciation hit. Well I rolled over 55.5k this morning and am planning a 5k trip next week. No second thoughts about it. I have kept up with the maitenence, including the valve clearance checks/adjustments (thanks to the Goose ) and know my bike qutie well, in and out. Quite a few folks on here have far more miles on theirs than I have on mine. Really that kind of mileage on a 10-12 year old bike, in my opinion, is much better than getting one with really low miles - assuming that it was ridden consistently over the years and not, say, ridden hard for the first few then sat for 5+ years. I am a big stickler for maintenance records and making sure that the PM is done on time and think that adds a ton of value to a used bike (not that I would expect to get more money for it because of my records when I sell it, but it makes me feel better...) Summary: Would I be worried about 50k+ on a used bike? - So long as it was regularly ridden and there was reasonable evidence of proper upkeep - HECK no! Giddy-up -
Bummer! Sorry to hear that Annie...
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Glad you are okay. Been there before too. Not a pleasant experience at all... As stated already, it goes to show that inconsiderate folk drive all sorts of things and that it pays to keep those eyes in the back of your head open at all times.
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Is the only problem you have that it won't stay shut? If so, carefully inspect the latch mechanism, so long as the plastic clamp is there give it a shot of compressed air and clean it real good. A little lubricant may help too. It seems like I end up having to deal with this every couple of weeks. I open and close my little door a lot AND I live in an extremely dusty environment. Clean it out real good and then it works like a charm... until it gets filled with dust again... I know this isn't what you were asking for but I thought it may be helpful nonetheless.
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HA, son of a gun. If that little arrow is really where you are at I was literally a few streets away from you over the summer. I do some work at Rutherford Appleton Labs a few times a year (in Didcot which is not far from Oxford). Last time I was out there I took an extra 5 days to putter around England and spent two and a half of them puttering around London. Had some lunch at a small place off B140 just west of A12.
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Cold weather pooching radio?
LilBeaver replied to Seaking's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Make sure that you give the connectors a good cleaning before you apply the dielectric grease. Connecting and disconnecting them several times (5-10) with a few shots of contact cleaner and repeating should be plenty sufficient. With respect to the dielectric grease, remember you want just enough to lightly coat the pins and seal up the connector (to help limit the corrosion, which is the point of the grease) and no more than necessary. In this case, more is NOT better. -
What, no pictures?! Seriously, Sorry to hear that. I wonder if it got hit just 'wrong' with a rock or something. Weird. Sorry to hear it!
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Dang, I knew there was SOMETHING this week that I had meant to do...
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By the way, welcome to the site!!!
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For the RSV, mufflers from 99-current will work just fine. I am quite certain that the 06 (possibly 05) to 09 RSTD will also work as in either 05 or 06 they introduced the RSTD as basically an RSV without the trunk and front fairing but frame, motor and power-train still identical. To my knowledge the first year for the RSV was 1999.
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Well she came over today and I walked her through how to pull off the rear wheel (she does not have a garage, the tools or the know how - but we found a service manual and worked through it). She has a tire on order and should be in within the next couple of days. We have a ~550 mile ride tentatively planned for 'soon-ish' (I will fill in the details after it happens) in an area suggested by a fellow member here whether he/she knows it or not (thanks for the video of those roads, by the way - looking forward to some of that riding ). After getting her rear wheel off we talked about how nice of a day it was and unfortunate it is that she wasn't able to ride much so long story short my RSV got some exercise today... Only about 120 miles worth though. We had a rather long talk about riding and this upcoming planned ride (whether she wants to drive herself or ride with me), making sure that she stays in her comfort zone and that I don't push her out of that on the bike and whatnot. She has ridden around 400 miles in a single day on her own before so she is pretty sure that she can handle it just fine but she is going to put a lot of serious thought into it some more and we'll talk again well before we go. I am pretty sure she is leaning towards just riding this one with me since it will be such a long day and we can do some progressively longer rides to build up to going again some other time. Anyways, all is well. Still friends and still don't intend to push that anywhere else. 'Riding buddies' and friends works just fine for me. I don't need any drama right now. Agreed, for sure. She actually talked a lot about this today while we were riding and asked lots of questions about how to handle certain riding situations, suggestions on ways to be better prepared for them, etc etc. She also mentioned (in so many words) that while she does not want to wipe out again, obviously, she knows/understands what she did wrong, how to better manage/avoid repeating it and has learned a lot about the whole situation, herself, abilities, etc. Anyways, today turned into a much longer day than I had expected and have to finish up a few things before work tomorrow morning so, everyone ride safe and I'll keep you posted so long as you care to know.
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I realize this is a really old thread but I just wanted to say thanks for the heads up. I do not understands a company or retailer not wanting to stand behind their product. I am starting to 'gear up' for a ride 'up north' in the next few weeks and decided to check out my cold gear options and this popped up. I also see that most of the members that posted in this thread are 'expired' members... Sort of sad to see...
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The optional cradle has a 'mic in' on it.
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One possibility is the cover that goes over the fork tubes -- Whatever they are called. Remember that the shape of the windshield and fairing can masquerade the location of the source of the noises. One thing to try is with the bike parked, rev the motor and see if you can find an RPM range that the 'tinging' occurs then have someone hold the throttle and grab the fork tubes and see if it stops. As to identifying a way to rectify this is another ball of wax
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It may be slow but it sure seems to have its way with the ladies... Good lookin' scoot!! Certainly my favorite color combo - although I may be a tad biased.
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Very cool! Definitely should be proud of that one. :thumbsup2:
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This is very unlikely to be the culprit. If it was a standard base/clear application and done properly the base coat (which contains the color) is applied in two or three coats with allowing sometime for the paint to 'flash' in between then topped off with 2 or 3 coats of clear applied in the same fashion. The time between applying the base and clear should have been quite minimal (on the order of 5-10 minutes). Additionally, if the problem was air/moisture under the clear one would see clear peel due to poor adhesion. Contaminants such as dirt or the gasses escaping from the material over time would cause bubbling (known as fish eyes which comes up right away), small specs in the paint that do not contribute to peeling but are visible as imperfections that look like small grains of salt that have been painted and stuck to the bike. Unless the paint is actually peeling off then you can be pretty sure that it is not due to poor preparation. From the pictures it is really hard to tell and I would have to feel it to know for sure but the few potential explanations that come to mind are as follows (in no particular order): 1) Something has rubbed on it after it has been painted (I doubt it based on the pictures though) 2) Whoever painted it dragged the air hose, clothing or whatever on that surface during the paint process thereby causing the inconsistencies in the paint and 'flake' 3) Someone had tried to rub and buff some of the paint imperfections out and burned through the clear, hence disturbing the flake and base coat. You may not have noticed when you picked it up because they would have put a nice coat of wax over the top of it which would have helped hide some of the fact that they burned through the paint. The shape of the marks as well as the position on the panel (with respect to the curves and whatnot) it looks to me like it was burned through by the edge of a buffing wheel. Again it is hard to tell based on the picture alone, hopefully they will make it right. I wonder what kind of paint 'problems' they were having the first time around... By the way, my family owned and operated a body shop for a few years and I did quite a bit of body work and painting, so I do have some experience in this field...
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I am no IT guy but I run Linux based OSes on a few of my machines (one is a server). As Rick (SilvrT) mentioned, Ubuntu is one distribution that is probably the most popular and n00b friendly for the typical end user. A program such as 'Wine' will allow you to run just about any windows based software in Linux. I personally run Scientific Linux or OpenSuse on most of my machines. I have run 'Ubuntu' and 'Mint' in the past. My reasons for choosing Scientific Linux are simple - the analysis software that I use and the programs that I write for simulations, modeling, analysis and whatnot (I am a physicist) are all based in Scientific Linux. Additionally that is the software of choice for the labs that I work with, so I chose that one since I am most familiar with it. If you are interested in a dual boot system running Ubuntu and you are not real sure that you want to go exclusively with Linux, I would highly recommend either running linux in a virtual machine for a little while to see if you like it or not or utilizing the "Wubi" installer option with ubuntu. This installer allows you to 'install' and 'uninstall' Linux as if it were a typical program in windows and it is completely automated. Once the installer is done you have Ubuntu in a virtual partition that acts as if it were a clean install and if you decide you don't like it, all you have to do is boot into windows and click 'uninstall ubuntu'. Done. If you want to take a lot of time to monkey with the computer and don't mind doing a full format and re-install then doing a typical fresh install of Ubuntu (or whatever distribution you choose) is fine too. Just know that once you do that the only way to get rid of it is formatting the drive (more or less). Do be warned that you are going to have to learn quite a bit, especially if you are not computer savvy, in how to do normal operations in Linux. And while some claim that Linux is perfect and the next best thing since sliced bread, it too has its own unique set of issues that will creep up eventually. ---- To answer your questions: Yes. If you stick with Mint or Ubuntu the setup is pretty straight forward. There will be a bit of a learning curve but "Dr. Google" can answer all sorts of Ubuntu questions rather quickly. Ha. No further comment. Grumble grumble grumble... Bottom line, if you are tired of dealing with Windows/microsoft, give it a try and give yourself a week or two to really get used to it and learn your way around. It is going to take some getting used to as it IS different than winders. There are people that swear by winders, swear by linux and yes even some choose mac (). In my opinion they all have their pros and cons and which one is 'better' is really up to the person using it and what the user wants to get out of it.
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You had me worried... You know, with that midnight of yours up for sale and whatnot! Nice scoot.
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Died again
LilBeaver replied to Jethroish's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Understood. I was not quite clear on it when I read your initial post as it sounded like you had just done it via the 'reserve'. Regardless, it sounds like you have it narrowed down quite well. Best of luck to ya!! -
Wait, you mean there is a better way to do it?