LilBeaver

In Illinois, the license plates belong to the owner NOT the vehicle. They can not be transferred to a different owner, only to another vehicle (owned by the same individual). http://www.cyberdriveillinois.com/departments/vehicles/title_and_registration/transferring.html Another suggestion I have is to file the official 'seller report of sale' with the state of Illinois. http://www.cyberdriveillinois.com/publications/pdf_publications/vsd703.pdf This lets the state know that you have turned over ownership to the new buyer and releases you from any liability that follows with that vehicle. This protects you from instances where a new owner does not actually go through the proper procedures to actually own the vehicle.

http://www.detroitnews.com/article/20120413/POLITICS02/204130397/1409/metro/Snyder-signs-repeal-Michigan-s-motorcycle-helmet-law Quick search did not turn up the actual legal proceedings like I had hoped but here you go; it appears to have gone in to effect this morning. Be safe everyone!

If you are going to do this at the DMV then once it is in his name, you are all set. The DMV will require a signed title OR a bill of sale. I never mind going on the side of caution with someone I do not know and do the extra 'paperwork' just so that everything is crystal clear. To answer your question though, in Illinois there is no 'official' bill of sale document. Any type of bill of sale is utilized only if the original title is not available and cannot be replaced (certain conditions apply such as some home-built vehicles, etc etc; not applicable in your case). To be thorough with your bill of sale I would include the following: - Seller's name (as well as any additional co-owner's information), date of birth, address, and current phone (or driver's license number) - Buyer's name, date of birth, current address, and current phone number of the buyer (driver's license number is never a bad idea but name and D.O.B. is usually sufficient to find someone's official records). - A clear and concise statement that the vehicle is being sold, signed by all owners [signature, printed name and date]. - Official sale price of the vehicle - Detailed physical description of the vehicle, including the vehicle identification number (VIN), odometer reading and the license plate number (especially if the plates reamain with the vehicle) - Additional statement by the seller(s) that there is no lien or other encumbrance on the title of the vehicle - Buyer's signature, printed name and date agreeing to the terms and also agreeing to transfer ownership (not totally necessary if you are doing this AT the DMV).

Kevin: No worries at all! Sorry to hear that you got so sick :-\ I hope that you have fully recovered or at least that you are on your way to a full and speedy recovery! -Rick

Show off

Should've seen that one coming...

Very nice, thanks for sharing! Did you have that mounted on the bike or are you just that good? Cannot wait to get up there again on the scoot!

PM sent, you guys are awesome! Thanks a lot!!! I have noticed a correlation to very humid conditions (it hardly EVER rains here) and this so I will definitely keep this in mind (inspect/address accordingly). Thanks Bob!

First chance to get on today and saw this :-/ Sorry to hear it Dave but certainly glad to hear that you are doing as well as you are. Hope the recovery is as complete, quick and pain free as possible.

Howdy folks. I am in the process of trying to identify an intermittent problem with my bike. unfortunately I think this may end up including needing to replace the ignition module. I have found some form Pinwall (and another member has offered me one that he purchased used) and I am aware of the Dyna 3000 as a replacement. I don't really have any interest in doing the Dyna replacement and my preference would be for a unit that has a reasonably well known history (ie out of someone's bike that got upgraded to a Dyna unit or something like that). So my question is does anyone have a spare module out of their RSV that they took out for the purpose of replacing the current one with a dyna or whatever? If so, would you be willing to part with it, for how much, etc etc. Thanks a lot!

RR: Thanks a lot, this is on my list of items to inspect when I get the time... Hopefully that will happen soon as I have already postponed my trip becasue of this [and that other 'w' word]...

PM "Not alowed" E-mail sent.

Fuse would be my first check. Pop off the panel near the left passenger floor board or behind the right lower cowling and have a looksey (directions given as per one sitting ON the bike).

You know, I have bought parts from them. I live not too far from them. They do not seem to be the sharpest tools in the shed. Not very helpful either. I put longer bars on my wifes 750 Shadow. They would not even take the time to see if they had a clutch cable that was longer or if one would fit from another model. But they sure do not have a problem with taking the money. I personally am not impressed with their sevice. But when your from out of town and obviously they knew you where, they took advantage of you. The only thing I can say is see what they have to say. I doubt you will get any satisfaction. If any of use find ourselves in a situation of needing a tire replaced while on the road, we should all be aware and look things over before we pay the bill. For what it is worth, I have had mixed experiences at C&C [in Brighton] and granted my last exchange with them was maybe a year or two ago but in the couple of years that I lived in that area (my parents and some family are still there) I had mixed emotions about them too. They were not superb but they were good enough to me that I did not feel compelled to go elsewhere. Service and parts were prompt and upfront about most things although they did have a time or two that irked me but I chalked it up to someone having a bad day and whatever. Shame to hear that this is how they treated you AND that they didn't pay attention to tire mounting or bring it to the customer's attention. I have learned to always inspect my bike very very carefully before touching it, moving it out of wherever they parked it and especially paying. I understand the perils of having to have service done on the road and it stinks, especially when someone is not very careful in doing the job well that they are entrusted to do.

Jack: Thanks for the ideas here. I am quite confident my battery is fine and the charging system is putting out the appropriate voltage with no trace of AC. Terminal Voltages measured across battery as follows: Ignition in 'OFF' Position: 12.6V Ignition in 'ON' Position and Bike not running (high beams, passing lamps, radio ON): 12.0V Ignition in 'ON' Position and starter button depressed but bike not running (high beams, passing lamps, radio ON): 11.8V Ignition in 'ON' Position and Bike running (high beams, passing lamps, radio ON): 13.2V (at idle) 13.5 to 13.8 (slightly above idle) ~14.1V (High rev) --- Unfortunately I have not been able to spend a whole lot of time on my bike today since a friend of mine's car broke down, I have been under the hood of that most of the day. My plan of attack will be: 1) Verify electrical connections (grounds, etc) 2) find, inspect, check and clean bank sensor 3) Investigate fuel pump - bypass and ride, etc etc 4) if necessary Thanks for the input folks. I may have further time tonight but depending on how my friend's car goes, I may not. I will update as I come along. If additional ideas come up, don't hesitate to share! Thanks.

If the radio works in the "ON" position but not in the "ACC" position then it is most likely not a fuse since the same circuits ought to be energized on each. This definitely points to a problem with the ignition switch unless there is some funny business with the way the fairing is wired up to. A quick continuity check on that ought to answer that question though.

Unfortunately I have not had time to dive into my bike just yet; some personal matters came up Anyhoot... Good to know I will definitely keep this in mind after checking out a few other things. If I do need one or want to give it a go. Sounds good. I think my next step will be to bypass the fuel pump and ride a little to see if I can notice a difference or not and if so, that will be replaced in no time. I have been meaning to get a spare wired up and setup anyways, so even if it is not the problem, no harm in having a spare handy. Thanks! This was my plan, although ebay has several for 10-15 bucks so I'll probably inspect and clean it first and see if there is a difference (unless I can conclusively test it to see if there is a problem with it or not which based on the service manual will likely not be the case). I might just bypass this all together as well and see what happens. Thanks for the ideas folks, hopefully I will be able to tear into this tonight or tomorrow. Sadly that means my planned ride for tomorrow might be delayed

As you know I have been toying with that idea for quite some time now... Even when I was considering the RSV upon my initial purchase. My local dealer keeps insisting that I take them for test rides... :mo money: Thanks don! I had not considered this at all. From the wiring diagrams, at least the best that I can tell as it is not labeled well at all (service manual page 8-3 has a switch labeled "Emargency stop switch" [spelling accurate as per the service manual] but gives no indication as to what it is or where inside the cowling/motor it is buried... So I guess I'll go on a fishing trip to find that piece of work. Based on the wiring diagram, although it is hard to tell, it looks like it just serves to cut off the igniter if open so this seems like a viable candidate for the long crank with no start as well as the cut-off. Now why it cut off when I shifted and not just 'randomly' while riding or when taking turns or whatever I don't know... Unless it has to do with the lack of smoothness in which I shifted those two times... Looks like fleabay has some used ones [one off of an 09] for ~15, shipped. I'll do some testing tonight and maybe give that a go. Keep the suggestions/ideas coming folks.

I do not know how the RSTD is setup nor what kind of modifications have been made as a result of your fairing being installed but on the RSV there IS another fuse box in the lower right cowling (by rear brake). I don't know how you have fused and/or setup the wiring in your fairing but that might be a place to look. The other thing that I would do as one of the first things is to pop off the fuel tank and check for continuity in the ignition switch itself. The tech library contains wiring diagrams [thanks to Dingy] that out to be helpful. I don't know how much experience you have with this kind of thing, so if you would like/require more instruction just say so. Checking for the switch continuity will verify whether it is a problem with the switch or something else on your bike. Probably one of the easiest (outside of checking fuses) checks to do before digging too deep into anything else. Again, not knowing how your fairing is/was wired up and whatnot will make it sort of tricky to help troubleshoot this for you, but one step at a time, eh?

With respect to the 'cutting out' symptom, the bike starts fine with respect to being in neutral or in gear (with side stand up and clutch in, of course). This 'cut out' has only happened twice; I did try slowly shifting up and down from neutral as well as in and out of the gear to try to duplicate the symptom and have yet to do it. I was thinking along these lines too. I checked while driving and found that the side stand has to travel down quite far before actually cutting off the motor, BUT a faulty switch or loose ground on or within the switch could certainly be the culprit. Both places that the bike cut out were very smooth so there would have been limited jostling about when the motor cut out. I plan on taking it a part tonight or tomorrow morning to see if I can find anything conclusive with respect to the side stand switch. If this were the case, that may explain the 'engine cutout' but not the no-start upon long cranking [since with the side stand down and bike in gear, it won't crank at all]. I also plan on disassembling the right handlebar controls to inspect and clean the engine cut out switch; check/inspect, clean and tighten the grounds on the bike and whatever else we can come up with. Thanks

Andy: Thanks for the ideas. I have not tried wiggling the key while idling and have not completely ruled out the electrical issue. I am pretty sure that if it is the ignition switch that if there was some sort of intermittent connection between the 'on' contacts the trip meter would reset in addition to possibly noticing some sort of loss of electrical power. Again though, I agree that the way the motor shut off it sure seems like it could be electrical. I inspect the wiring near the ignition (as per Eck's [i think] findings a few years back: EDIT: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=304057&postcount=1 /END EDIT) and have seen no indications of the wires over heating. I have been meaning to disassemble my ignition switch to clean and inspect the contacts but have not take the time to do that yet so maybe that should be a priority soon... Thanks again for the comments/ideas

Well folks, I have been having some weird issues with my 2001 RSV and I am not really sure if they are in fact issues or related so here we go... Summary of 'symptoms': 1) Engine cut out (like someone hit the cut off switch; engine died only, no stumbling/starving for fuel, no interruption on the radio) when shifting from first to second and from second to first 2) Engine sometimes cranks for a long time before starting (happens hot or cold) More detailed explanations of each: (1) It was a slightly cooler morning (30s-40s ish) but not any cooler than it had been in prior weeks, and I did what I ALWAYS do before leaving for work. Come out to the garage, load my crap in the trunk, turn the fuel on, start the bike (no choke necessary - my garage stays reasonably warm), back out of the garage, give the bike 10-20 seconds, tweak the throttle to check for proper warm-up time, all is good so I take off. While driving up the road, no more than a few hundred yards from my house (somewhere between 20 and 30 mph) I go to shift into second, as soon as I push the shift lever the motor dies. It was a near instant cut out - ie no starving for fuel, no stumbling, no chugging etc. The first thing I check is the engine cut off switch (sometimes I bump it with my thumb), then the side stand, all is good so I pop the clutch and it starts right back up. I immediately u-turn and roll back home (I live downhill from where I was), pull in the drive way and inspect stuff. I turn the key off and back on to check for the fuel pump noise (which was present and clicking like it should). I checked the side-stand switch, clutch safety switch, etc etc and all seemed fine. Decided to give it another go, bike started right up and I rode to work with no problems. This happed 2-3 weeks ago. I had assumed that I had maybe not let the bike warm up enough, tweaked the throttle while shifting and maybe it cut out. This morning, I rode in (temperature ~70) and stopped at the bank. The bike is plenty warm at this point. Pulling out of the bank, all goes fine until I start to slow down for a stop sign, again a few hundred yards from the bank, go to down shift into first and the engine dies. Just like before, all of the electronics stayed on without interruption (radio played continuously, etc etc) and it was like I had hit the engine shut off switch but I did not. I do not recall hitting any big bumps or whatever either, it was a smooth patch of road. I do not recall this morning if I tapped the starter to restart the bike or just popped the clutch; either way it started right back up and it ran fine the rest of the way back to work. When I left my house, I know for sure the fuel pump did its clickity thing because I heard it. As a result of issue (2) I have been making a point of shutting the petcock off 2-4 miles from my house so that I can verify the pump operational everytime I start my bike. The fact that this engine cut out when shifting has happened twice now has be beginning to think that maybe it is a real issue or at least something to investigate. (2) Issue number two that may or may not be related is the occasional really long cranking time required to start my bike on occasion. I first noticed it last Thursday (8 days ago) I was about 200 miles into a ride and it started to get dark, I pulled over to the shoulder to change out my sunglasses for my clear safety glasses. All was running well until I went to start my bike. I hit the starter button and the bike cranked but did not start right away like it usually does. I cranked it in a few bursts of about 3-5 seconds each then shut off the ignition, turned the petcock to off and let the bike sit for a minute or so (thinking maybe it was flooded). After letting it sit for 1-2 minutes I turned the key back to the on position, hit the starter and it fired right up. Turned the gas back to the ON position then took off. The bike ran fine for the rest of the evening. Friday morning, it was around 40 with rediculously high humidity (70+%) and the dew was really thick. [i was parked at a hotel as I was traveling for work]. I went out loaded up for the day and went to start the bike and it behaved similarly, it took several rounds of cranking before it eventually started (I turned the gas OFF over night and made sure to pull the choke all of the way out and turn the gas ON before trying to start it). After some cranking, similar to the previous day's behavior, it started right up and ran fine for my ride into where I was working that day and then back to the hotel again, that evening. The next day started off the same, weather wise, and the bike started without hesitation in the morning. I left work around noon and stopped by the local motorsickle dealership to paroose a bit before heading back home and when I went to restart my bike (after chatting with someone who was looking at a purdy RSTD adn telling him how reliable these bikes are ) I had a repeat of these symptoms - long cranking time before actually starting). The bike ran fine all ~300 miles back home so . I was careful to not stop on the side of the road and I stopped for fuel every 100 miles just in case it was bad gas or something. Since then this long cranking symptom has been present a few times and it seems to occur at inconsistent intervals (sometimes when the bike is warm and sometimes when it is cold). I drained my float bowles and the first round of fuel that came out looked awfully clear and smelled very weakly of gasoline. I left one of the float drain screws open and flowing into a glass jar while allowing the fuel pump to cycle and it pumped out just fine. After that first round the fuel came out looking like I expect good fuel to look and smell. For kicks, I did mix some fresh fuel with a few OZ of sea foam and pumped it straight into the carbs and let it sit that way overnight, re-drained in the morning then put fresh fuel in the tank and rode for a little bit. Again, driving/riding wise the engine seems to run fine. I have had a couple of these long crank times since I did the carb bowl drain, but it has only been maybe 2 or 3 times since last Saturday (my bike is my primary mode of transportation and it has been started several times within the last week). I feel like this could be a weak, intermittant or failing fuel pump but am not really sure what else it could be. My next course of action will be to change the fuel filter (current one has less than 10k miles on it, but if I did get a bit of bad fuel somewhere, I know it can clog in a hurry) and go ahead and put in new spark plugs (I am approaching 8k miles on the current set of plugs). I checked the header pipes during warm up and after riding for a while (IR thermometer) and all four are within 10 or so degrees of each other. I have been paying extra close attention to the fuel pump 'clickage' [suspecting a weak or intermittent fuel pump] and am strongly considering just replacing the dumb thing so I don't get stranded somewhere... I am at a loss for what else could be causing these symptoms and if these are even related to each other so I am all ears for suggestions of things to check, inspect, pay attention to or whatever. Thanks a lot! As usual, I am coming up to a departure date for a ~1-2 week ~6k mile ride and crap starts going wrong... yea me. :sign09:

Great Advice! :thumbsup2:

Hmmm, here I thought SOMEONE found something else to keep them busy while 'working'. Turns out that guy looks NOTHING like you. Pretty swanky though!

Could you please clarify what you mean when you say that you get "intermittent power when you jiggle" (I'll save the wise guy comment about jiggling for some other time); specifically do you mean (1) you get intermittent power to the LEDs (and ONLY the LEDs) that are connected to that part of the fuse box (2) that you have intermittent power to the rest of your bike? (3) something else all together? I too do not see any reason that using that accessory plug to trigger the relays (provided that they are, in fact, setup properly for that) would cause any problems (well any that wouldn't pop the 5amp fuse anyways) UNLESS somehow you have managed to produce some sort of goofy short between the starting circuit and this set of wiring (very unlikely, in my opinion). The way that I find to be the easiest for determining where drain is occurring is to take an ammeter and go through your fusebox(es) and check each fuse socket for current while the key is in the off position (simply touch the positive and negative leads to opposite contacts where the fuse blades go). The ONLY one that should draw ANYTHING at all is the 'back-up' fuse for your reverse gears (trip odometer too) and it should be on the order of milli-amps. Everything else (unless you have re-wired otherwise) should be zero (Definitely zero, not mili-amps, zero). One final check is to compare the reading from the 'back-up' fuse socket to the reading that you get by putting your ammeter in line between the positive lead from the battery and the battery's positive terminal (again with the ignition in the OFF position). I suppose some might suggest using the negative lead for "electrical safety" sake but as long as you are careful you ought to be fine. This reading should be within a few mili-amps (well SHOULD be exactly the same, but these are not theoretical systems). If they match up then your problem must be with your battery. Sorry this is a little scattered, I got interrupted a few times while writing it... I hope it makes sense.