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LilBeaver

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  1. LilBeaver
    After reading Squidly's post here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20982&highlight=screw+weeks and watching some demos, I was pretty much sold. At least for one round of tires. When I get close to replacing mine (if I do not have any problems before then) I will do a similar test on both front and rears and see what happens. I bought a few bottles on ebay for about $12 a piece (including shipping). I figured that worst that happens is that I wasted $24 on a preventative measure. Also I had figured that there is a chance that if I run something over, it will buy me some time to get to the shoulder (if it did not work like it was advertised). My #1 concern with it is that people say it cleans out with water easily which leads me to question what happens if you have a hole in the tire that it sealed, then you ride in the rain. I called and talked to a customer service rep and they assured me that so long as it had 'cured' when it filled the hole that riding int he rain wouldn't be a problem - however, I am very skeptical. I do not understand how this can be water soluble on the inside of the tire and NOT go away when water hits it from the outside (again, IF it had filled a puncture). Again, I have some experimental work to do once my tires get close to replacement time. These are my Hopefully someone will weigh in that has had a real experience with it one way or the other Rick M.
  2. LilBeaver
    I usually wear a Camelbak that does not hit the tank. In fact, if it did I have other things to worry about. I have also affixed a cup holder to the crash bar that would be by the passengers feet (as to keep it away from the handlebars. I know that neither of these directly address you question but they are other options... I use these precisely for the issue you have - I could not figure something out that did not get in the way of the tank.
  3. LilBeaver
    A few tweaks to the suggestions above... One more thing -- Make sure that if you do this on your own you get yourself a REALLY GOOD respirator and try to ventilate your workspace as good as possible with out having moving air around your painting surface. I would suggest hanging thick plastic sheets around where you will actually be painting for two reasons. 1) Keep dust/junk/dirt out 2) to keep the paint in
  4. LilBeaver
    Every once and a while Harbor Freight does have a few paint guns that go on sale for real cheap, and some of them are real quality guns. I found them to be the cheapest supplier for the quality that they provided.
  5. LilBeaver
    I know you said that you did not want to pay someone to do it but you are in Akron Ohio and there is a Maaco in your area. Tell [the owner -- I am pretty sure that he is the only one that works up front still] him that Steve from the Maaco in Garden City Michigan suggested that you stop in and see him about your bike. Bring your bike in for the estimate, and let him know that you will do the full dissassembly, etc. He should shoot you a reasonable price. (I didn't tell you this but it wouldn't hurt to suggest a cash job) DO NOT go with the Enamel [which is the lowest line paint offered] I would suggest either the Polyurethane with an integrated clear or a Base Clear. I am pretty sure that he has two levels of the base clear one is called the 'signature' service and the other is actually a factory finish. (the latter is not advertised) The ONLY difference is the clear coat. The clear coat that is used with the more expensive stuff makes it a little easier to get the correct texture match when you spray a panel that is adjacent to a panel that didn't get painted (ie for color and texture match on a spot job). If you go base clear, you will be fine with the signature series (as there is no difference in durrability, gloss retention, etc) I am sure he would be happy to show your some of the finished cars he has in his shop so you can see the difference between the polyurethane with integrated clear and the base clear. I know that some people may have a bad flavor about Maaco body shops or whatever but in the last several years Maaco has really been fighting with the franchisees that hadn't changed a thing since the 70's. I have seen some of the work that this Akron shop turnes out, and he does do real nice, quality work. I used to be a painter (among many other things) a the Maaco in Garden City. I painted a number of Motorcycle parts (as well as helmets too actually) and they ALWAYS got a great deal on it. So you should take the 10-15 minutes it'll take to have a conversation with them and I am guessing that you will find that it will be much more affordable than you think. Good luck friend!
  6. LilBeaver
    Yup, me too!
  7. LilBeaver
    Like others have said already, I removed mine for the air filters. I did this [the first time] because I thought I needed to in order to get the filters off. It turns out that it was not 100% necessary, but for the 5 minutes it took me to R&I both cowlings it was worth it for a few reasons. First, I could easily get the air boxes back on, make sure everything was clean in and around where they mount (don't want anything getting sucked into that intake that isn't supposed to!) The other pluses for taking off the cowlings is getting the chance to give the insides a good cleaning. Some might argue that this is not necessary, but where I live it is really dusty and that stuff gets in EVERYTHING. So I took a few minutes to make sure to wipe everything down, check the few electrical harness (cleaned those too, after all dielectric grease is cheap), check and clean out the fuse box (on the side with the brake pedal) etcetera. Yes, it may have taken longer to do all that, but I figured I was in there anyway so it couldn't hurt anything. Anyway, that is my . Have fun, - Rick M.
  8. LilBeaver
    Glad he was able to walk away. Gdspeed.
  9. LilBeaver
    Congrats! You should be darn proud of that; looks terrific!
  10. LilBeaver
    Just ordered mine for 24.95 +5.50 shipping. (W/O mounting hardware) http://signaldynamics.com/products/LightBars/15ultra.asp They also have all sorts of other LED lighting options, etc.
  11. LilBeaver
    Terrific, thanks a lot!! I've been looking at variations on these for a while but I didn't want to give up the holders or drill into the trunk (and really, just hadn't been looking very hard). Looks like a winner... I almost got run over by some dingus while I was sitting at a light the other day (I was furtunate that the intersection was clear enough that I could pull out and out of the way so the ***** could run the light). I cannot wait any longer to get some more light back on mine. By the way, love the pinstripes on your trunk.
  12. LilBeaver
    Wow, very nice. According to their description it 'bolts on', but can you still use the helmet holders?
  13. LilBeaver
    Now there MIGHT be some validity to this since there is a LOT of money made on financing through the dealer. They may be able to fluctuate a little bit on the price since you will be paying them back (in interest) -- Because of that dealers are able to bring the 'selling' price down a little, offer you more on your trade-in [if you are trading in], or even offer you some 'free' merchandise within their store (or an oil change, or whatever). Opposed to the money they would NOT bring in through the financing that you would secure from elsewhere. Salespeople like this turn me off from a dealership for good. The second something like that comes out of a salesperson's mouth I may argue for a minute or two about it, but that would be the deciding factor for me to walk away and never go back. I realize that something like this may be some sort of 'selling tactic' but that is just silly. I understand that the final cost figured to the penny may need to be figured out after all of the dust settles from whatever type of financing or whatever is computed, but there is no reason they cannot ball-park out the door price (within say 50 bucks or so). In fact, I bought a car a few months ago, and after a few minutes of back and forth with the sales rep (and eventually the 'manager' came over and talked with me directly). We went back and forth a little bit with the 'selling price' and then I basically ended up saying "Look, here is what I feel the car is worth, I have the cash and am willing to go for $xxxx out the door, if you can do that we have a deal. If not, I understand and will keep looking". The manager and the sales rep stepped back and talked about something for 5 minutes or so, came back with the paperwork and I had myself a car. In the first conversation I had with the sales rep we talked about 'selling price' and then the 'out the door price'. That is, they had it all figured out before I had to ask (which is when I decided to just go directly to the out the door cost - instead of talking about the selling price THEN the fees, blah blah blah) Anyways I'll stop because I think I have said enough and on top of that I am sure there are plenty of folks that disagree/disapprove of my approach, this is just my on this situation. I am jealous, I lived in Marquette, Michigan (right on Superior) for about 4 years and they have some amazing scenery up there. I sure do miss those summers! Have a terrific and safe ride -- look out for those deer! Gdspeed, - Rick M.
  14. LilBeaver
    I have been looking and have only found them at BikerHiway (for 41.91 -- chrome one) +12.21 shipping, and Twistedthrottle.com (50+11.80 s&h), http://www.ridesafer.com/Stebel_Nautilus_Compact_Air_Horn_p/h0014-cah.htm 33.50 +$5 for chrome + $15 s&h All of these S&H are to west Texas though... so it will probably be different since you are in Michigan. That is what I have found so far, hope it helps. - Rick M.
  15. LilBeaver
    Hmmm... I used to work at a body shop, and we would do that for customers (For free if they were nice to us). It took about [literally] 2 minutes. But, I used a high speed buffer and rubbing compound, then finished it off with a fine polish. I am curious to see which one turns out a more clear headlight... Yours looks great though! Oh yea, and replacements [as you no doubtably found] are a rip... Even the aftermarket ones. Not only are they ridiculously priced, they almost NEVER fit right, or even close...
  16. LilBeaver
    I would go for a Fine threaded screw extractor. (Which may be what is meant by a LH drill bit). I have found that the fine ones work much much better than the coarse threaded ones. Good Luck! - Rick M.
  17. LilBeaver
    Don: Presuming that your 2009 is the same as my 2001 [which I am pretty sure the mounting of these pieces are] there are 3 [4mm] hex head bolts and one plastic retainer that needs to come out for that piece to come off. (I replaced mine a few weeks ago, so this is what I remember anyways) The two silver colored ones on the front of the 'cowling' and on the backside [ie. the side that your right foot is by when you are riding -- just above the rear brake pedal] there is a small silver hex head bolt there that needs to come out [if I remember correctly]. Then on the bottom of the cowling, where the right and left sides join together under the radiator, there is a plastic 'push-in' retainer that needs to come out for the 'cowling' to come all of the way off. Once you get all of those pieces out, the plastic piece pulls right off and the fuse box is right there. As far as them being on there that tight, I do not know what to tell you -- since your bike is brand new [based on your 600 mile service comment] the only reason that would be locked in there so tight is the dingus at the dealer cranked it on too tight. The other option may be that they used the 'loc-tight' like they are supposed to on some parts, which may make it difficult to get out. If you do not have a good set of hex-head 'sockets' [i don't know if they are considered sockets or not, but that is where I found them in the tools anyways], that may be a wise purchase for future work on the bike since many parts are held on with these hex-head bolts. I got a metric set from sears last time they went on sale for about $20. This also allows one to torque these parts properly upon reassembly if you choose to do so. Hope that helps! Rick M.
  18. LilBeaver
    Hmmm, I had no idea they were in town....
  19. LilBeaver
    Dang -- I'd love to go, but I'm up in Vancouver, BC until June 2nd...
  20. LilBeaver
    If you are going to be traveling across US 2 beware of a the sand all over the road -- it can't really be avoided there are some areas that it is everywhere. I always preferred to cross the UP on M-28 (but I lived in Marquette, so I had reason to drive the extra distance north anyways -- so this may be out of the way depending on how much scenery you want to cover, etc.). I would take I75 to Highway 123 (exit 352), and if you have a few extra hours -- the drive on Highway 123 - up to Tahquamenon falls is a nice drive, but 123 runs into M-28. etc. Then, depending on how much time you have/are willing to take the ride up and around the Keweenaw (Up to copper harbor) is, in my opinion, well worth it. (M-28 to US 41 to M-26) etc. There is A LOT of beautiful scenery in the UP and you won't be dissapointed no matter which way you go. As mentioned, but it is worth mentioning again -- especially for the UP... It may be warm in the day but as soon as that sun starts going down, it will get cold so definately be prepared with your cold gear... Lastly, on a night with a full moon [my favorite up there] you'll be able to see almost as well as you can in the daytime -- but if it is a new moon, it is dark and the deer hide well... I've put many many miles on in the UP and there are all sorts of terrific places to ride -- Enjoy it!! I know I did
  21. LilBeaver
    Very nice... Wish I was closer I would definitely take it of your hands!
  22. LilBeaver
    Worked first try...
  23. LilBeaver
    Whoops - My front is the 71H (I double checked right now... Brain fart earlier when writing about the front :- \) the rear is the 80H. Thanks.
  24. LilBeaver
    Well, figured I'd throw out an update First, if I were to go back to Dunlops it would certainly be E3s or, if I could find them 491 E2s... But before I go there, I would like to give these Avons a fair run - especially since so many folks agree that they are the way to go. Goose: Checked the bead all the way around and it seemed fine. I have monkeyed with the tire pressure a little more. My front tire (80H) does say that max pressure is 42 psi, not 50 which I find a little curious... I have ordered a Progressive air pump so that I can accurately and reliably add and modify the air in the suspension since this ought to help anyway. Earlier this evening I went ahead and went through the best I could and reseated the front axle in the forks - Mostly by following the directions in the service manual for the installation. Then I tightened and re-torqued everything to spec and took it for a spin... I noticed some improvement. I think I will go ahead and give these tires a thousand miles or so before I make a decision one way or another. Thanks again everyone for your input. Al_Bates: Checked, double checked and verified that the tire is mounted with the correct rotation orientation - Good call. I got into the habit of checking that after a shop mounted one backwards on me... Lets just say the test ride was NOT enjoyable... FIB_78 if I decide to change these out, I'll let you know (and I'll definitely call around to see if I can find a place around here that will mount and balance a tire for the 10 bucks your shop up there does!)
  25. LilBeaver
    Goose: First of all thank you very much for your input. #1) Done. I've been riding with no air in the forks since I got the bike (mostly because I have not picked up a sufficient hand pump yet to add/adjust the air properly) #2) I have tried numerous combination of air pressures (before the front got replaced) and a few after it got replaced. But I will try 42f/46r and see how it goes. #3) I have not checked this and I did not think to check this after the new one got put on. (incidentally I choked the feelings that I was getting to the tire being new and just not being used to the new Avon... I never had the feeling I did with the several new sets of Dunlops I've been through on my other bikes) Again, thanks a bunch for the input - I can't wait to get back out and try it some more (I sure don't want to replace tires so soon...) Bill: Thank you for your input as well. I have to ride quite a ways before I get into anything that I would consider to be reasonable twisties (unfortunately - product of where I live) The vast number of spaghetti intersections for the psudo-freeway system that exists in the town I'm in does allow me to get leaned over quite a bit if I want to... I do have the 150.... I know that a lot of people are real happy with these tires (which is one reason I went through with the warranty replacement instead of throwing Dunlops on) - Hopefully a few adjustments and a few more rides, and I'll be in the happy Avon camper category too! Thank you both again for your input, it is greatly appreciated.
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